Cleaning it up and detailing the bellhousing may be a deterrent to someone looking to buy as it may be detailed already differently than what they had in mind. I know this is true to engine parts as I'd much rather buy parts that have not had any machine work versus some that are "fresh" and ready to go.

Tom,
I'm interested, how much?

The bell housing is not as hard to come up with, the offset clutch fork for the unibody autos is the thing i have problems finding, do you have the offset fork?

Tom i am intersted in the bell housing can you contact me.

I forgot to add this but My 390 it smoking a lot out from under the valve covers and from the oil fill hole, and its drinking gas like crazy any suggestions on what to check out ?

I only know about comets but if the vin is 6z this is a 1966 car Are you sure about the 6z54m this says its a 1966 made at Z factory?? with a body style 54 ( 4 door or 2 door post?) and an M? code engine could you have the Z and M mixed up? A z code was a 390, i've never seen the M code for a v-8 anyways. I'll check my books tonite when i get home to be positive.

You asked for it Frank so here goes my ideas. There should be lots of different ones forthcoming but this should get the ball rolling for you.

If I were to build a 390GT now here's what I'd do:

Intake - I've run & liked the Performer but that was back before the RPM was available. I'd choose the the E'brock RPM now and I'd go with their 750CFM carb too. I ran one of those on a 428CJ and by using the "Strip Kit" for this carb along with Edelbrock's instructions and a little 1-800 help the carb worked perfectly and it never leaked!!

Cam - as has been said many times...tough to recommend because there are so many variables and expectations but yo did say"street driven" so I'd say keep it very reasonable. I still like good old C6OZ-B and it's available from Crane/Comp. But again what I'd do is go with something like Comp's 282S - yes a solid lifter shaft. I have had the most success with solids. The Comp 282S is mild enough to be very streetable but I know many who have run this cam with much success. I think Royce has been very happy with this cam in one of his engines. He may tell you more. I have this cam in my 427 based on a lot of "research" i.e., talking to people who have run it. I still haven't fired mine up yet but it's getting closer.

Heads - if your '67 GT 390 has the C6AE-R heads that's good. Use them. Have CJ/Lo Riser intake/exhaust valves installed with some pocket port work and they'll work nearly if not as well as CJ, C8OE-N heads. If your 389 has the C7AE heads....I'd get rid of 'em. Remember that's what I'd do. The C6-R head has the tall intake ports and just offer more performance advantages if built. The C6AE-R heads are readily avaiable. Don't forget to look under the hoods of '66 F100 with 352-2V's...there likely to be there. Also '66 Galaxies with 352, 390 and 428s. You might get lucky and find a set of R's already drilled/tapped for the unibody exhaust manifolds....which is next.

headers vs. exhaust manifolds - don't use the stock manifolds. I'd choose something like FPA, Ford Power Applications, Puyallup, WA, is offering. They're built well and they fit well. A major power robber on the 390GT was the extremely restrictive stock exhaust manifolds. The only Fairlane 390s I ever saw run really well had headers. I'm talking street driven 390 Fairlanes that would run in the 13's.

Pistons - forged and something that will provide at least 9.5:1 with 10:1 being better. You should be able to get by fine with Premium unleaded currently available.

ARP - use high quality fasteners throughout the engine. Have a pro who knows FEs do your work.

MSD ignition - they now have a new distributor featuring vacuum advance. Go with this and their module, 6A or 6AL.

Trans - you don't say which one you're using in your '66 but you indicated that the engine came from a GTA so....automatic-C6? Great. I'd run the available low first gear package and have the trans pro built for street/strip performance. I'd also suggest a mild stall convertor but it's not absolutely necessary. I like the from the light response from a stock stall GT/CJ torque convertor. But a mild stall, 2,200-2,400 RPM is okay for the street. Because I'd want to be able to run at the strip well I'd go with the mild stall along with a set of BFG radial street slicks for those special days I'd be driving to that strip if there's still one around you.

There you go...just a bunch of random ideas that I might do if I were to build a 390/428 for a Fairlane/Comet/Cougar/Mustang. Which I like to think I might do again someday.

n/m

Click the SEARCH button at the page's top and type "ported vacuum advance" into the window and let her fly.

This site has a search engine better than most and just about any question you could ask has been asked and answered (sometimes through lengthy debate) many times over.

The Edelbrock 427 heads have a machined combustion chamber which gives a little lower compression than the Edelbrock 428 heads. Check with Edelbrock, I believe the valve spacing is also different than the Edelbrock 390/428 heads and might cause a cylinder wall interference problem on a 390 engine's 4.080" bore since they are intended for a 4.23" or larger bore.
http://www.edelbrock.com

Royce

Set the timing to best vacuum with the vacuum line from the distributor hooked up to the ported vacuum source. Then test drive the car, you may have to retard it slightly if pinging results under full throttle acceleration.

Royce

There are three varieties of the C8AE 6090-J. The ones used on the drag cars had eight bolt exhaust bolt pattern like a 427 Low Riser. Production heads started out with 14 bolt pattern so that the 390 GT exhaust manifolds could be used. Around January the production cars started receiving the CJ exhaust manifolds that needed a 16 bolt pattern on the exhaust side. These heads (at least all the ones I have seen) have dates between June 1967 and December 1967. The C8OE 6090-N heads seem to have dates no earlier than January 1968.

You can find more information at:
http://www.428cobrajet.com

I would guess that a set of those J heads that were not cracked or milled excessively could sell for $1000 in rebuildable condition.

Royce

Tell me more about these heads . I'm trying to trace the history . Ilive in the Atlanta area lots of drag racers in this area Hubert Platt ecttttt.....