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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17655&Reply=17655><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>intake manifold</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve Gray, <i>07/01/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1966 390 2v/c6 that I am rebuilding. I had picked up a performer 390 at a swap meet and was ready to install it when I noticed how large the difference was in port size between the heads and the intake. Is this normal? Also is it common to throw away the cork gaskets and seal the ends with silicone on fe's as it is on SBC,s. There is a pin at the front of the block that alines the stock intake but the performer is not drilled for this pin. Do I remove the pin? </blockquote> intake manifold -- Steve Gray, 07/01/2003
I have a 1966 390 2v/c6 that I am rebuilding. I had picked up a performer 390 at a swap meet and was ready to install it when I noticed how large the difference was in port size between the heads and the intake. Is this normal? Also is it common to throw away the cork gaskets and seal the ends with silicone on fe's as it is on SBC,s. There is a pin at the front of the block that alines the stock intake but the performer is not drilled for this pin. Do I remove the pin?
 RE: Yep, maybe, yep. -- Gerry Proctor, 07/01/2003
Port size of manifold to head is normal (remember that the Performer is a velocity intake and uses smaller port area). You can use either the cork gaskets or silicone -but not both except in the corners if using the cork. Either has its cautions it's just a matter of what you prefer. Yes, you do have to remove the location pin in the block.
 I'm thinking you're lucky. -- Dave Shoe, 07/01/2003
Many 1966-later heads did not have all that great a mismatch between the head and the Performer intake. I suspect you are one of the lucky ones who scored large runner C6AE-R heads (found on about 1/3 of all FEs in 1966-67 only), instead of the smaller runner C6AE-J, C6AE-L, C6AE-U, or C6AE-Y head castings also available in 1966.

The plain Performer (a.k.a.: Performer 390)manifold will perform better than your stock intake, but not a whole lot better. A better intake is the "Performer RPM", if waking up the engine is what you want to do. The RPM is a versatile intake, capable of running mild to wild, small to large displacements.

If you do have the small runner variety of heads and still note the discrepancy, this is material which can be ported from the intake, though I still wouldn't expect the Performer to ever really liven up. It may have a hot name, but it's a mild intake.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17650&Reply=17650><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 cj</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ron, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am installing a 68 - 428 CJ in a 56 F100.<br>I installed an after market IDFS kit & the front  of the oil pan is directly over the cross member & rack & pinion steering. In order to clear this I need to raise the engine about 3".<br>Is there any way to get the clearence I need, like a remote tank, dry sump, etc. that won't cost a fortune. I'm an old goat trying to relive my youth via hot rods & live on SS so funds are scarce. TIA    Ron </blockquote> 428 cj -- Ron, 06/30/2003
I am installing a 68 - 428 CJ in a 56 F100.
I installed an after market IDFS kit & the front of the oil pan is directly over the cross member & rack & pinion steering. In order to clear this I need to raise the engine about 3".
Is there any way to get the clearence I need, like a remote tank, dry sump, etc. that won't cost a fortune. I'm an old goat trying to relive my youth via hot rods & live on SS so funds are scarce. TIA Ron
 RE: 428 cj -- Greg, 06/30/2003
Maybe a rear sump pan and remote pick up.
Just guessing.
 RE: 428 cj -- stuart, 07/06/2003
You might try posting in the forum on www.ford-trucks.com and go to the forum for a 1956.HTH Stuart PS My 1955 F100 has a 302 and Mustang IFS with I believe an Explorer oil pan which has a hump in the middle to clear the rack.
 68 Rad Support -- Nevin Warner, 06/29/2003
In need of a 68 Mustang Rad Support.
Been looking for NOS with no luck.
All the Aftermarket ones that I have seen
do not have the meat of the stock item.
Is Ford going to restamp this part or do I
have to settle for the after market.?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17626&Reply=17626><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>New gaskets stops oil drinking problem</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>My 428 has always been thirsty when it came to oil. I never could figure out why so I changed to Victor Reins intake gaskets as an experiment. The Fel-Pro gaskets were so soft that they distored when torqued down cracking and moving to let oil to be sucked right into the intake port on the head. <br><br>The Victor Reins gaskets have steel in them and a graphite facing so they keep there shape no matter what and they are cheaper than Fel-Pro Printo-SealĀ© gaskets.<br><br>I didn't finish the gasket swap until 11:00 PM last night so I waited until today to take it on a 100 mile road trip to varify the results. There was no smoking and the oil consumsion probem was gone.<br><br>I was using about a quart every 100 miles and it used to smoke pretty bad along with oil fowling plugs.<br><br>We need to continue to spread the word on these Victor Reins intake gaskets. </blockquote> New gaskets stops oil drinking problem -- James, 06/29/2003
My 428 has always been thirsty when it came to oil. I never could figure out why so I changed to Victor Reins intake gaskets as an experiment. The Fel-Pro gaskets were so soft that they distored when torqued down cracking and moving to let oil to be sucked right into the intake port on the head.

The Victor Reins gaskets have steel in them and a graphite facing so they keep there shape no matter what and they are cheaper than Fel-Pro Printo-SealĀ© gaskets.

I didn't finish the gasket swap until 11:00 PM last night so I waited until today to take it on a 100 mile road trip to varify the results. There was no smoking and the oil consumsion probem was gone.

I was using about a quart every 100 miles and it used to smoke pretty bad along with oil fowling plugs.

We need to continue to spread the word on these Victor Reins intake gaskets.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17627&Reply=17626><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New gaskets stops oil drinking problem</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Chad, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>what are the part numbers? </blockquote> RE: New gaskets stops oil drinking problem -- Chad, 06/29/2003
what are the part numbers?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17628&Reply=17626><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New gaskets stops oil drinking problem</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>james, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>95159SG is medium riser gasket used on the 428 CJ. I ordered mine from Gessford at 1.800.829.3448 </blockquote> RE: New gaskets stops oil drinking problem -- james, 06/29/2003
95159SG is medium riser gasket used on the 428 CJ. I ordered mine from Gessford at 1.800.829.3448
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18003&Reply=17626><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New gaskets stops oil drinking problem</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>dennie, <i>08/03/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>James will this part number gasket fit 390 c7ae heads? also do you only use silicon on the ends? </blockquote> RE: New gaskets stops oil drinking problem -- dennie, 08/03/2003
James will this part number gasket fit 390 c7ae heads? also do you only use silicon on the ends?
 You can find out easy enough. -- James, 08/03/2003
The 390 heads have different ports from what I understand. You might call Gessford or NAPA and ask them. They would know for sure if the gaskets are different. The Cilicone goes on the head side only and only.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17629&Reply=17626><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Something to consider</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>james, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>If your car is passing the leak down test but using oil and smoking, trying a set of Victor Reans intake gaskets on these FE motors is sure a cheap experiment. </blockquote> Something to consider -- james, 06/29/2003
If your car is passing the leak down test but using oil and smoking, trying a set of Victor Reans intake gaskets on these FE motors is sure a cheap experiment.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17638&Reply=17626><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Something to consider</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob T, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>My 68 GT500 has the same problem, 1 quart per 100 miles, and I have been using FelPro. Time to try these. Any one know where to get these in Canada? </blockquote> RE: Something to consider -- Bob T, 06/29/2003
My 68 GT500 has the same problem, 1 quart per 100 miles, and I have been using FelPro. Time to try these. Any one know where to get these in Canada?
 If there is a NAPA store... -- james, 06/29/2003
If there is a NAPA store you can order them.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17623&Reply=17623><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>427 MR head value?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike L. Drew, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi guys,<br><br>I have a pair of 1966 Medium-riser heads, complete, with one-piece valves, Harland-Sharpe roller rockers, etc. etc., i.e. ready to bolt on.  These heads came off the motor with less than 5,000 original miles from new, supposedly?  <br><br>I'm curious--what do you suppose these suckers are worth?<br><br>Mike </blockquote> 427 MR head value? -- Mike L. Drew, 06/29/2003
Hi guys,

I have a pair of 1966 Medium-riser heads, complete, with one-piece valves, Harland-Sharpe roller rockers, etc. etc., i.e. ready to bolt on. These heads came off the motor with less than 5,000 original miles from new, supposedly?

I'm curious--what do you suppose these suckers are worth?

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17631&Reply=17623><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Depends.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>What are the date codes? These heads were made into the 1970's. The ones with 1965 - 67 date codes are more desirable to the resto people and might be worth $1500 to the right person. If they have 1968 - 72 dates they are more useful to racers and would be worth more like $1000 to $1200.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Depends. -- Royce Peterson, 06/29/2003
What are the date codes? These heads were made into the 1970's. The ones with 1965 - 67 date codes are more desirable to the resto people and might be worth $1500 to the right person. If they have 1968 - 72 dates they are more useful to racers and would be worth more like $1000 to $1200.

Royce
 RE: Depends. -- Mike Drew, 06/29/2003
These are date-coded 1966, as is the block. They're from an original Cobra motor purchased over the counter in 1966 as a spare, by a person who had also purchased a 427 Cobra and wanted a spare motor to go with it....

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17621&Reply=17621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>High-torque starter?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Drew, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi guys,<br><br>Since my 427 side-oiler is being rebuilt right now, I figured I should change the starter, especially since the stock-style starter that was on it had some serious issues, and would often 'drop out' (the gear would disengage from the flywheel, yet keep spinning while the key was held in the 'start' position).<br><br>Rather than replace it with a standard model, I'd like to go with a more modern, lighter, high-torque model.  I have a gear reduction starter in my 351C in my Pantera and it works GREAT!  Looking for recommendations for similar units for the 427.<br><br>Thanks!<br><br>Mike </blockquote> High-torque starter? -- Mike Drew, 06/29/2003
Hi guys,

Since my 427 side-oiler is being rebuilt right now, I figured I should change the starter, especially since the stock-style starter that was on it had some serious issues, and would often 'drop out' (the gear would disengage from the flywheel, yet keep spinning while the key was held in the 'start' position).

Rather than replace it with a standard model, I'd like to go with a more modern, lighter, high-torque model. I have a gear reduction starter in my 351C in my Pantera and it works GREAT! Looking for recommendations for similar units for the 427.

Thanks!

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17632&Reply=17621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: High-torque starter?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>incubus2432, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a CVR unit on my warmed up 390 and I love it. It's been workin great for over 2 years and sometimes my car is a stubborn start (vapor lock issues)....but it always cranks fine. Fits great with my FPA headers.<br><br>Brian Crisman<br>67 Cougar GT 4spd </blockquote> RE: High-torque starter? -- incubus2432, 06/29/2003
I have a CVR unit on my warmed up 390 and I love it. It's been workin great for over 2 years and sometimes my car is a stubborn start (vapor lock issues)....but it always cranks fine. Fits great with my FPA headers.

Brian Crisman
67 Cougar GT 4spd
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17634&Reply=17621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: High-torque starter?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Drew, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>CVR?  No habla CVR.  Details please?<br><br>Thanks! </blockquote> RE: High-torque starter? -- Mike Drew, 06/29/2003
CVR? No habla CVR. Details please?

Thanks!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17645&Reply=17621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: High-torque starter?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>incubus2432, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Jegs has them....part # is 171-5049.<br>www.jegs.com </blockquote> RE: High-torque starter? -- incubus2432, 06/30/2003
Jegs has them....part # is 171-5049.
www.jegs.com
 RE: High-torque starter? -- Mike Drew, 06/30/2003
Awesome--thanks! I'll order one as soon as I get back to the USA!

Mike (Kuwait City sucks this time of year...)
 RE: High-torque starter? -- Glenn, 11/16/2003
I have a CVS from Jegs on my 390. They do perform well but I do have a concern. The original FE starter has 3 bolts holding it to the bellhousing and the CVS starter only has provisions for two bolts. Not well engineered for the specific application in my book. One good backfire or nasty hot start kickback and my C6 trans case is trash. Find a starter that uses all 3 bolts. IMHO
 RE: High-torque starter? -- Geoff McNew, 07/01/2003
I put Powermaster's #9506 XSTorque FE Racing Version on my 428scj when I had it out...and fresh cables. If you're running headers, also use a high-temp reflective shield like Thermo-Tec's.
 RE: High-torque starter? -- Geoff McNew, 07/01/2003
I put Powermaster's #9506 XSTorque FE Racing Version on my 428scj when I had it out...and fresh cables. If you're running headers, also use a high-temp reflective shield like Thermo-Tec's.
 Better High-torque starter option! -- mike scott, 11/16/2003
You can order a nosepiece from thes people and put it on many PMGR starters made for newer model Fords that you can pick up at any local part store for $70 or order the entire starter form them. It only weighs 8.5 pounds and puts out 4.6 times the torque.


http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=101&rP=searching,nextPage@Next+%3E%3E,cat@Starter+Kits,subCat@,rqPartNO@,rqDesc@,rqOrder@,backNum@1,nextNum@3
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17617&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Hayes Monster clutch for sale</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Drew, <i>06/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi guys,<br><br>I have a Hayes heavy-duty clutch ass'y from a '66 427--pressure plate and disc.  It has about 3,000 miles on it.  Perfect for HEAVY duty applications; it was simply too stiff for my girly-man leg!  Virtually no wear (due to the low mileage), and I keep tripping over it in my garage.<br><br>Asking $150 o.b.o., located in the San Francisco/Sacramento area.  Satisfaction guaranteed or your money back!<br><br>Cheers!<br><br>Mike Drew<br>MikeLDrew@aol.com </blockquote> Hayes Monster clutch for sale -- Mike Drew, 06/28/2003
Hi guys,

I have a Hayes heavy-duty clutch ass'y from a '66 427--pressure plate and disc. It has about 3,000 miles on it. Perfect for HEAVY duty applications; it was simply too stiff for my girly-man leg! Virtually no wear (due to the low mileage), and I keep tripping over it in my garage.

Asking $150 o.b.o., located in the San Francisco/Sacramento area. Satisfaction guaranteed or your money back!

Cheers!

Mike Drew
MikeLDrew@aol.com
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17622&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Hayes Monster clutch for sale</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Drew, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Whoops!  New guy here--posted my ad and THEN saw the "no ads" policy!<br><br>Sorry 'bout that!<br><br>Mike </blockquote> RE: Hayes Monster clutch for sale -- Mike Drew, 06/29/2003
Whoops! New guy here--posted my ad and THEN saw the "no ads" policy!

Sorry 'bout that!

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17636&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Not a problem.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>We used to have a classifieds section, but I've not been able to find it recently.<br><br>Mr. F, can you help me find it?<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Not a problem. -- Dave Shoe, 06/29/2003
We used to have a classifieds section, but I've not been able to find it recently.

Mr. F, can you help me find it?

Shoe.
 I found it. -- Dave Shoe, 06/29/2003
You can ignore my previous post. I found the Classifieds plain as day just now. Musta got sidetracked last time I looked.

Shoe.
 No problem, Mike. I'll even leave this up, awhile. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/29/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17644&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Hayes Monster clutch for sale</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mark, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Will that fit a 390 too, or only a 427?  I have a mustang with a 390 with a slipping clutch, and I also have a pretty good sized leg.  Actually it was a 352 but I had it rebuilt to a 390; It didnt even come in the car to begin with, but was in there when I bought it.  DO they all use the same clutch or is it different? </blockquote> RE: Hayes Monster clutch for sale -- Mark, 06/30/2003
Will that fit a 390 too, or only a 427? I have a mustang with a 390 with a slipping clutch, and I also have a pretty good sized leg. Actually it was a 352 but I had it rebuilt to a 390; It didnt even come in the car to begin with, but was in there when I bought it. DO they all use the same clutch or is it different?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17646&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Hayes Monster clutch for sale</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Drew, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The FE-model clutch is common straight across the FE line.  In fact, Hays doesn't list a part number for any motor except the 390.  Go to the Hays website:<br><br><a href="http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/hays.pdf">http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/hays.pdf</a><br><br>Look on Page 2; what I have is (I believe) part number 52-110; 11-inch Long-style pressure plate, and matching disc.<br><br>The disc is set up for a big-block top-loader input shaft.<br><br>I won't be home for another 2-3 weeks so I can't look at it and try to get part numbers off of it.  I can tell you, however, that it's currently 113 degrees in Kuwait City...but hey, at least I'm not in Baghdad--yet!<br><br>Mike </blockquote> RE: Hayes Monster clutch for sale -- Mike Drew, 06/30/2003
The FE-model clutch is common straight across the FE line. In fact, Hays doesn't list a part number for any motor except the 390. Go to the Hays website:

http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/hays.pdf

Look on Page 2; what I have is (I believe) part number 52-110; 11-inch Long-style pressure plate, and matching disc.

The disc is set up for a big-block top-loader input shaft.

I won't be home for another 2-3 weeks so I can't look at it and try to get part numbers off of it. I can tell you, however, that it's currently 113 degrees in Kuwait City...but hey, at least I'm not in Baghdad--yet!

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17648&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Big spline and small spline are different parts.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The best I can tell, big input shaft (1-3/8") clutch and pressure plates are different than standard input shaft (1-1/16") clutch and pressure plates.<br><br>The long-style fingers are designed for either the large style or else small style throw out bearing, and the hole in the pressure plate is sized accordingly, too.<br><br>There may be some commonality with aftermarket goodies, but factory stock clutch and pressure plates won't interchange between the large 427 input shaft and the standard 390 input shaft.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Big spline and small spline are different parts. -- Dave Shoe, 06/30/2003
The best I can tell, big input shaft (1-3/8") clutch and pressure plates are different than standard input shaft (1-1/16") clutch and pressure plates.

The long-style fingers are designed for either the large style or else small style throw out bearing, and the hole in the pressure plate is sized accordingly, too.

There may be some commonality with aftermarket goodies, but factory stock clutch and pressure plates won't interchange between the large 427 input shaft and the standard 390 input shaft.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17649&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Big spline and small spline are different parts.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Drew, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>&gt; The best I can tell, big input shaft (1-3/8") clutch and pressure plates<br>&gt; are different than standard input shaft (1-1/16") clutch and pressure plates.<br><br><br>&gt;I can understand that there are two different discs (to accomodate the different sized input shafts), but why would the pressure plates be different?<br><br>&gt; <br>&gt; The long-style fingers are designed for either the large style or else<br>&gt; small style throw out bearing, and the hole in the pressure plate is sized<br>&gt; accordingly, too.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; There may be some commonality with aftermarket goodies, but factory stock<br>&gt; clutch and pressure plates won't interchange between the large 427 input<br>&gt; shaft and the standard 390 input shaft.<br><br>&gt;Hmm.  Is the standard 390 input shaft a SMALL input shaft?  My wide-ratio top loader is a 390 Fairlane gearbox, HEHCM is the code (I think--memory rusty).  So, my clutch is a 390 clutch, which would work on his 390. :&gt;) </blockquote> RE: Big spline and small spline are different parts. -- Mike Drew, 06/30/2003
> The best I can tell, big input shaft (1-3/8") clutch and pressure plates
> are different than standard input shaft (1-1/16") clutch and pressure plates.


>I can understand that there are two different discs (to accomodate the different sized input shafts), but why would the pressure plates be different?

>
> The long-style fingers are designed for either the large style or else
> small style throw out bearing, and the hole in the pressure plate is sized
> accordingly, too.
>
> There may be some commonality with aftermarket goodies, but factory stock
> clutch and pressure plates won't interchange between the large 427 input
> shaft and the standard 390 input shaft.

>Hmm. Is the standard 390 input shaft a SMALL input shaft? My wide-ratio top loader is a 390 Fairlane gearbox, HEHCM is the code (I think--memory rusty). So, my clutch is a 390 clutch, which would work on his 390. :>)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17652&Reply=17617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>PP ID and lever length.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I believe all wide ratio toploaders are small (1-1/16") input shafts.  Narrow ratio trannys can be either input.<br><br>390s did get the small input shaft, though I understand there were special order drag-pack 390 Fairlanes that got the large input shaft.  I'm sure other cases exist, too.<br><br>The small input pressure plate casting ID is too small to fit over the large input clutch hub.  Also, the long-style lever fingers are sized differently, to accomodate either the small TO bearing or else the large TO bearing.  Interchanging will cause bearing wear and also interference with front bearing cover.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> PP ID and lever length. -- Dave Shoe, 06/30/2003
I believe all wide ratio toploaders are small (1-1/16") input shafts. Narrow ratio trannys can be either input.

390s did get the small input shaft, though I understand there were special order drag-pack 390 Fairlanes that got the large input shaft. I'm sure other cases exist, too.

The small input pressure plate casting ID is too small to fit over the large input clutch hub. Also, the long-style lever fingers are sized differently, to accomodate either the small TO bearing or else the large TO bearing. Interchanging will cause bearing wear and also interference with front bearing cover.

Shoe.
 RE: PP ID and lever length. -- Mark, 07/01/2003
SO did all 427s come with the close ratio box?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17616&Reply=17616><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>C3AE-B carb?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>06/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The original metering plates on a C3AE-B/List 2668 carburetor, stock on '63-'64 427-410 single 4V, are #3903 primary and #3814 secondary.  <br><br>I sent my C3AE-B to the master, Joe Bunetic.  He informed me that the carb has the wrong plates.  He has modified other plates to work but it's time consuming and of course we know time is money.<br><br>It's a long shot  but I was wondering if there's a carb expert out there that might know if there are other #plates that will work with this 700 CFM carb?  <br><br>I'm hunting for for 3903/3814 but might be willing to substitute with reliable, proven information.<br><br>Thanks.<br><br><br><br> </blockquote> C3AE-B carb? -- McQ, 06/28/2003
The original metering plates on a C3AE-B/List 2668 carburetor, stock on '63-'64 427-410 single 4V, are #3903 primary and #3814 secondary.

I sent my C3AE-B to the master, Joe Bunetic. He informed me that the carb has the wrong plates. He has modified other plates to work but it's time consuming and of course we know time is money.

It's a long shot but I was wondering if there's a carb expert out there that might know if there are other #plates that will work with this 700 CFM carb?

I'm hunting for for 3903/3814 but might be willing to substitute with reliable, proven information.

Thanks.



Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17640&Reply=17616><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Can't comment on substitutions but I'll check stock. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>06/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Can't comment on substitutions but I'll check stock. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/29/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17643&Reply=17616><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE:thanks</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Sunjet60HP, <i>06/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'd appreciate that and I'd be pleased to make the purchase. </blockquote> RE:thanks -- Sunjet60HP, 06/30/2003
I'd appreciate that and I'd be pleased to make the purchase.
 Sorry - no luck on those pcs. [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/02/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17656&Reply=17616><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>C3AE-B carb? Need one?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Larry, <i>07/01/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have one available. I sent you an email. </blockquote> C3AE-B carb? Need one? -- Larry, 07/01/2003
I have one available. I sent you an email.
 RE: C3AE-B carb? Need one? -- McQ, 07/02/2003
Thanks. I responded.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17612&Reply=17612><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>High torque starter for a 352.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>58FairlaneGuy, <i>06/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a '62 T-bird 352 going in a '58 Fairlane and I'm having starter problems. I have been told that I would have to replace the flywheel to use a high torque starter. Is this true? Any ideas? </blockquote> High torque starter for a 352. -- 58FairlaneGuy, 06/28/2003
I have a '62 T-bird 352 going in a '58 Fairlane and I'm having starter problems. I have been told that I would have to replace the flywheel to use a high torque starter. Is this true? Any ideas?
 RE: High torque starter for a 352. -- Travis Miller, 07/02/2003
The old type Ford starters (pre-65) were never good for spinning an engine very fast. We use to use 6-volt starters bolted to the early 60s high perf FE years ago. They would not crank long but would spin the engine over faster. Then I learned that a good starter rebuilding shop can do this same type trick to the starters.

Check out your rebuilder. Deal directly with him. Do not go thru a parts store. If you do you will pay dearly and may be told it cannot be done.
 value of hilborn injection system? -- cliff, 06/28/2003
I would like to know the value of a hilborn injection set up for a hi riser is worth

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