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| 390 oil pump -- Mike, 06/18/2003
I am currently rebuilding my 390 with the eddelbrock performer rpm package. I am thinking about using a melling high volume oil pump. Any toughts about this would be great |
| | RE: 390 oil pump -- Gerry Proctor, 06/19/2003
Melling has some good information on pumps on their site http://www.melling.com/support/bulletins/view.asp?id=12
I'm using a Milodon HV/HP pump, have zero problems or issues, and it works perfectly.
For what it's worth, most of the "bad" things you hear on this issue are anectodal...stuff a friend told them about a guy whose uncle knew a guy whose friend... and the trash that passes as fact on Internet forums.
If the question was "must you use one?" then I suppose the answer could be different but you'll clearly do no harm if you do use one. So at worst, it will be inert. At best, it could provide a valuable margin at higher rpm. One thing, though, is that since the FE doesn't meter valve train oiling through the lifter, as the tech article states, it wouldn't hurt to restrict rocker oiling with the insertion of Holley jets (I recall that 80s are the norm) under the rocker shaft supports. I haven't done this myself and have no adverse issues but it wouldn't hurt. |
| | | RE: 390 oil pump -- jeff jones, 05/11/2005
gerry, with your miloden hv/hp pump. are you running a stock engine and pan on your 390 ? i have a 67 390 2v. 68,000 miles,with stock pan with 50 p.s.i. when cold and 5-7 p.s.i. when hot at 525 r.p.m. i was leaning towards a mellings hv pump. i have the old pump off and am considering a proper pump now. i do not want to get another pan account i might be selling car. any suggestions?? |
| | I have researched this issue. -- James, 06/23/2003
I have a HP oil pump and wondered the same thing before I installed it as it came with my engine package. I got on the phone with an engineer at Melling and he told me that the HV pumps were good for drag racing and the HP pumps were good for the street because the HV pumps will empty the pan very quickly. On a long trip you could have a problem. The stock pump is not a bad choice for normal street driving with an occassional romp.
I cut some valve cover tops off to watch the oil as the engine ran. I also experimented with different size restrictors and different weights of oil. The optimum set up with a HP pump is .060 size restrictor with 40 weight oil. Any bigger restrictor or thicker oil and the seals are submurged in oil creating a oil drinking problem. Thinner oil seamed to work Ok but as long as I didn't use anything thicker than 40 weight I was Ok. A Holley jet that size works great on a stock Ford head but you will have to get creative if you have an Edelbrock head since the oil hole in question is half the diamiter of the stock ford head. Edelbrock tried to correct this by making that hole half the size but they could have gone half again smaller and still been ok from what I have seen. I hope this is what you were looking for. |
| | I'd be concerned with the oil pan. -- Dave Shoe, 06/23/2003
I've trashed a few sets of bearings before I realized my HV pump was causing oil starvation issues when the pan was sucked dry. I could hear the lifters clatter on hard corners and could watch the oil gauge ping zero.
My present rule is to use stock pans only when you run a stock pump, and only if the car is not faster than about 14 seconds in the quarter. I'll also overfill a stock pan an extra quart, just as Ford did for the later 428CJ engines (the ones with the windage tray and recalibrated dip stick). Proper rockershaft restrictions are important, too.
Since I typically run faster engines than this, I tend to run stock depth T-pans (Canton or Milodon are common ones) made of steel, as cast aluminum pans can shatter if they run into road debris. I'll run either stock or HP or HV or an HVHP pump with an oversized pan.
The HV pump makes the most sense on a car with super loose bearing clearances. HV pumps were used on FT trucks, but they run all day long at full throttle and 2000RPM, so it makes sense these slow engines could use some extra volume at the lower RPMs. Cammers came with stock volume pumps, and at 8000RPM they can pump way more oil than they'll ever need.
Since switching to a high capacity oil pan (about a decade ago), my bearings have had no problems.
JMO, Shoe. |
| Carb id -- Martin, 06/18/2003
I have a 4 barrel motorcraft carb with the following tag on it D 8V E GA B 7G 29 On http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/88781?it=10 (a ford carburator forum) someone said it could be a motorcraft 4350
does anyone know how i can identify this carb??
I was thinking of putting the carb on my 390ci 69 mach1
Thanks for your help
Greetings,
Martin |
| | 'D8VE-GA' = 1978-79 460. Not what I'd use on a 390. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/19/2003
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| | An original 4300 shouldn't be hard to find, or buy a 600cfm Holley. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/19/2003
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| '67 mustang 390 belts. Mr F.?? -- Anthony, 06/18/2003
Belt routing. Right now I have a 2 groove on the Harmonic and on the water pump. Alternator runs over the alt, wp, main. P/s runs over p/s, wp, main. Future a/c will be main, idler, a/c. Is this correct, and if not, what is?
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| Steve with the 67 390 4 speed -- new at this, 06/17/2003
what else can you tell me about your car (general) do u know what kind of torque numbers your car putts out at the rear wheels? do u like the 4 speed? when i think about transmissions i want a 4 speed but OD as well. Do they make a transmission with 4 forward gears and OD? how long did it take you to restore your 67? |
| | RE: Steve with the 67 390 4 speed -- steve, 06/17/2003
I bought my car because it has a 4 speed.I like being able to shift the car when I want and as hard as I want.To me automatics are too boring.Just my oppinion.The only thing is on the highway I wish sometimes I had another gear.My car took about 4 years to restore and didn"t have any rust.I just took my time.But now thats its done It"s the most fun car to drive and enjoy.I have the dyno sheets but not with me.I can"t remember the torque.Just think what year mustang you want and what you want out of it.Thats what I did and it worked out great.My car looks 100% original,and the engine is almost 100% correct except for a few performance add ons. Fpa headers,edelbrock heads to name a few. |
| buy engine or paint? -- new at this, 06/17/2003
i just read an article in mustang & fords titled "build your first restomod" it told me that when i buy a car i should paint it first before i start putting an engine in and fixing the interior. is this accurate? |
| | Yes - its a matter of choice, but most folks do it that way. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/17/2003
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| | Guess it mainly depends on climate and if its your daily driver. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/17/2003
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| | RE: Address the cosmetics first. -- Gerry Proctor, 06/18/2003
You'll have a better chance of actually keeping the car long enough to fulfull your goals if you like looking at the car in the driveway. As long as everything works you can always do the major mechanical upgrades as time and finances allow. |
| boring late model fe -- cuzncletus, 06/16/2003
I've got a late model (74?) 360 block in my 62 Galaxie. It's got a 428 crank, edelbrock heads, PI intake, H. Sharp rockers, headers, C-6, 3.89's, etc. It runs 13.8's at 106 with a lot of tire spin so it runs OK. The problem is its been run a lot and been run hot. I want to do a freshening/upgrade. The 360 truck block has the extra webbing in the bottom end like an SCJ block. I've been told these blocks can go to 4.13 with no problem and I've also been told otherwise. Any experience out there before I take it for sonic testing? (This will require at least two days back and forth time as I live in a rural area.) |
| | RE: boring late model fe -- Gerry Proctor, 06/17/2003
You can't generalize when it comes to FE blocks. The only way to know how far your block can go is to have the bores (all of them) sonic mapped. Sometimes they can go 0.080 over and sometimes not but most times -not.
Obviously you wouldn't want to sink money into pistons until you knew for sure. |
| Intake questions -- Chad, 06/16/2003
I have a 428 PI intake do you use the same toque numbers as a cast intake and if different what are the toque numbers. Cleaning aluminum intakes what works good. Does any paint work with aluminum? Thanks, Chad |
| | Ford spec calls for same torque. What kind of cleaning? [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/17/2003
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| | | RE: Ford spec calls for same torque. What kind of cleaning? [n/m] -- Chad, 06/17/2003
cleaning the intake for painting. The intake is stained. try and make it like new again. Thanks |
| | | | Personally, I'd use a hot-tank and then plastic media-blast. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/17/2003
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| | | | Or call a local 'pro' car wash - see if they have a steam gun. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/17/2003
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| | | | | Thanks n/m -- Chad, 06/18/2003
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| FE engines? -- new at this, 06/16/2003
yeah so i am ignorant of the difference between a regular 390 and a FE 390? Can anyone enlighten me? Which engines can support bigger numbers? thanks |
| | All Ford engines of 390 cu. inches belong to the 'FE' family. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/16/2003
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| H-M 427 iron block possible? -- Larry, 06/16/2003
Was able to talk to Lee Holman about the rumor of a block from H-M. He confirmed that he and Art Francis are planning on casing an iron 427 block. Art plans on casting a tall deck version also. Also, the plans are a couple versions of the 427 heads (don't remember if HR or MR) but Art wants to cast one with rotated and reposition valves. Holman is only interested in the HR heads with stock valve locations. The block and heads are to be used on his GT-40's that are planned to be finished by 2006.
They are currently converting the 4 each 1964 Fairlane Super Coupes to road race cars like the ones they built in 1964. |
| | RE: The proof will be in the pudding. -- Gerry Proctor, 06/17/2003
The nostalgia market for obsolete engines just isn't that big. So H-M want's a slice of an already fairly small piece of pie shared by Shelby and, dispite their shaky beginnings, Genesis (you can also throw Dove in there as an unknown variable)?
Just my opinion, this seems more like a pipe dream than anything else. And I seriously wonder about the high riser approach since the genesis of FE heads has been the HR to the MR and to the TP so if there was to be development of the cylinder head technology, why not do a canted valve TP or even a proprietary FE port similar to the designs used on the Chevy Z06?
Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see anyone and everyone pouring and forging FE parts since the laws of supply and demand apply to FEs as well but there is a financial component that can't be denied.
And for what it's worth, Ford also considered running up the foundry for 427 Motorsport blocks but it never got off the ground. I know the profit margin considerations are different for Ford and an independent but even FoMoCo understood that the market is too small to support their investment in their own engine design.
Yeah, it would be great if you couldn't throw a rock without hitting a 427 block somewhere but I just don't see that happening. |
| | | Gary...this time it might happen -- Larry, 06/18/2003
Lee Holman is needing blocks for his GT's that he is building from original molds with monocoque (sp) chassis. He said he is building like 32 of them and he doesn't want anything that isn't original looking right down to the heads, intakes and carbs. Said the Genesis block had some faults that made it not close enough to put into a 1-2 million car.
Like you said, we shall just have to wait and see. |
| | | | Holman Moody has the name recognition -- P, 06/23/2003
and they also have the first hand experience with the 427 on the NASCAR circuit and the GT 40 program.
If anyone could make it work you'd think they could. I wish em all the luck in the world.
P |
| 390? -- New at this, 06/16/2003
i am new to the whole mustang thing i am planning by next year to have a 67 68 or 69 mustang fastback but i haven't decided yet. i have been thinkin about engines a lot and i think i want a 390. i was wondering if it is possible, and fairly easy, to get about 400 HP 450 torque out of this engine. What kind of boreing and stroking would i be looking at. also, last question, if you had to choose between the 67, 68, or 69 mustang fastback what would you choose and why. thanks extreamly much i am trying to gather as much intel as possible as this will be my first EVER expeirience working with engines and cars. HELP!! |
| | 390 -- steve, 06/16/2003
The 390 is fairly easy to produce 400 horses. It just takes a good intake,cam,heads.I personally like 67 fastbacks.Mine has a 390 with a 4 speed and dynoed at 365 hp at the rear wheels.It goes pretty good. |
| | If cost is no object, buy a '69 - more popular bodystyle. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/16/2003
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| | | RE: If cost is no object, buy a '69 - more popular bodystyle. [n/m] -- steve, 06/17/2003
Up until the movie gone in 60, I would agree but since then a whole lot of people are looking into the 67s and 68s,just look at the price of 67 shelby"s since then. |
| | | | That's a very good point. I'd still give the edge to a '69. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/17/2003
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| | | | | My next car will be a 69, Mr F.[n/m] -- steve, 06/18/2003
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| | | | | | OK - cool....unless a '67/'68 FB is available, dirt-cheap. ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/19/2003
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