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 |  Waterpump Pulley -- Joe, 05/31/2003
I have a 67 Mustang GT 390 with P/S no air and no airpump should the pulley on waterpump have one or two grooves. Thanks Joe |
|  | You need the (rather rare) single-sheave pulley, 6.125" OD. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/01/2003
n/m |
 | throttle linkage -- scott, 05/30/2003
my 65 galaxie came with a single 4 barrel 352 with a cruise o matic. ive got a 73 rebuilt 390 motor that i want to replace the 352 with, i also have a dual 4 lowriser manifold that i plan on using, my problem is the bracket that clamps my throttle cable wont work with this manifold so i need to know where i can find one that will, also, what about the kick down lever? what parts am i going to need to aquire to make this work for me? ive already located the progressive linkage, but as far as i can tell im going to need the throttle cable bracket, some thing for my kickdown and a fuel log which also i have no idea what kind of log to get. thanks for any input. |
|  | RE: throttle linkage -- galaxiefreak64, 10/12/2003
hey lokar.com
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| | try vintagespeed.com exc online cat n/m -- dennie, 10/12/2003
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| Damper Spacer -- Phil Lemoine, 05/30/2003
Anybody have a damper spacer laying around? I need one for my ATI Super Damper on my 427 MR. I also need a single grooved pully. |
| needed parts -- JKellerman, 05/30/2003
ATTENTION MR.F
I'm building a 65 bird and am looking for parts. At the present I need a dip stick tube--in time I will need some new pre-bent transmission lines--if available --and brake parts --hoses, proportioning valve, wheel cylinders, pads and shoes and possibly rotors . I haven't evaluated the calipers yet but hoping for just a rebuild kit. |
| HYD. Lifter's and ADJ rocker's -- Chad, 05/30/2003
Switching from non adj. rockers to adj. rocker's. Do you use same size push rod's with ball and cup and what would be the valve lash. Thank's Chad |
|  | RE: HYD. Lifter's and ADJ rocker's -- McQ, 05/31/2003
Yes you use the regular ball/cup push rod that goes with the adjustable rocker arm.
Actually there's no lash figure. All you have to do with hydraulics lifters/adj. rockers is take up the slack and give the rocker adjuster one half additonal turn. Here's how I've done it:
With one hand rotate-turn the push rod as you tighten the rocker adjusting screw. Make sure the push rod is captured in the rocker of course. As the slack is taken up you keep rotating the push rod to make sure it's not tight but that all slack is out, that there's no visual space/gap between the p-rod cup and the rocker adjusting screw. You should feel reasonable drag in the push rod as you turn it but it shouldn't be tight. Again the slack is taken up. Now all you do is give your ratchet and additional high 12:00 to 12:30 turn or one half turn. That should do it.
What you don't want to do is overtighten the adjusting screw. If after starting the FE you notice a lifter or two clicking that's no problem. Note which one or two are clicking and pull the v-cover back off and give those noisy ones a little bit more turn. Although I've rarely had new hydraulics click with adjustable rockers.
Many years ago when I was even dumber than I am now I over tightened a set of rockers/hydraulics on a 390. It started but popped/back fired....shut it down! Hmmm oh ya this ain't no small block! A run though on the adjustables using the described technique and the 390 fired and idled like it should...albeit a little rough due the fairly radical cam I was running on that particular 390.
It's easy, you'll like em. Adjustables rockers with hydrualics is a good idea. They're required when running anti pump-up and offer a little more lift with standard hydrualics. |
| | | RE: HYD. Lifter's and ADJ rocker's -- Chad, 05/31/2003
Thank's for the info. here's what i got. I'm stealing my adj. rocker's that came of a 428 w/ a solid cam, I'm guesting the p-rod is longer on a solid cam. So i'll have to buy new rod's, maybe new lifter's too? I'm learning more about my FE's every day, Thank's again. |
| | | | RE: HYD. Lifter's and ADJ rocker's -- McQ, 06/01/2003
It's not necessary to buy new push rods. If the push rod is the ball/cup style it's very likely it's the correct length. I would say yes you need new lifters....unless you're saying that the ones you are going to run with the adustable rockers are fine now. Then there's no need to buy new hydraulic lifters.
I'm not sure I understand exactly what you're saying...just don't install the solid lifters onto a hydraulic cam. Because then you're going to need a new cam in very short order. Adjustable rockers/pushrods with hydralulic lifters is good. But solid lifters with a hydraulic cam is bad. |
| | | | | .020" to .060" is typical for hydraulic preload. -- Dave Shoe, 06/01/2003
What you want to do is get the rockers adjusted to tghe zero lash threshold. At that point you want to crank the adjuster nut down so the lifter is compressed about .040" or so below zero. This appears to be the center of the "live position" for hydraulic lifters.
It's reasonable to believe that some lifter manufacturers will have a different sweet spot, but on a recent spec I read, .020" to .060" was it.
The pusrods would be the same with a similar cam. If you go really wild on th cam, the "base circle" of the cam will shring and you may need to reassess your rocker geometry to determine what needs to be adjusted.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| | | | | | RE: lifter's -- Chad, 06/01/2003
I understand hydraulic, solid cam and lifter's.
I didn't know if you needed to match pushrod's and lifter's. Some times I don't even know what I'm talking about HA HA.
I'm starting to understand all this cam stuff, again thank's for all the info. |
| | | | | | RE: .020" to .060" is typical for hydraulic preload. -- Geoff McNew, 06/02/2003
Shoe,
When adjusting hydraulics, I've heard (2) methods:
1. INT: rotate engine normally until the exhaust lobe starts to push up the lifter...set the intake on this cylinder now - zero lash, plus 1/2 turn more. EXH: continue rotating engine until the intake has risen and is almost back down closed...set the exhaust now - zero lash, plus 1/2 more.
2. rotating engine until both intake and exhaust are closed...set both to zero lash plus 1/2 turn more.
Which is correct/best way and why? |
| | | | | | | Your way sounds best. -- Dave Shoe, 06/02/2003
Thanks for the sequencing info.
I didn't remember which was the best position for picking up zero lash, so I just gave a generic position which would be tough to adjust to.
You've just stated a workable, repeatable reference position. It probably applies to all hydraulic lifters and camshafts, though there may be a few odd-spec cam kits out there that have a strange grind and require a different adjustment pattern.
Shoe. |
| | | | | | | RE: basic set for solids too -- McQ, 06/02/2003
The first method/system you've described I've used with success with solids and initial start. Of course with solids I'm checking lash cold, i.e., .028 typically.
But I'd like to say again that with hydraulics & adjustables I've not had any real problems just running right down the rockers using the "system" of taking up all slack (azero lash....I just don't think of a lash measurement with hydraulics) and then the half a turn additonal. Like I said there was a couple of slightyly clicking tappets once but that was easily fixed. What has always been important to me was to not have the pushrod too deep into the hyd. lifter.
But all in all I think Geoff's idea of setting the pushrod into the hydraulic lifter while it's on the base circle of the lobe is a good idea. |
| Carb ID for FE -- crusinbuddy, 05/29/2003
I have a 390 cu in with a 4V carb which I want to ID. The only markings I can find are as follows:
Base, left front....C9ZFD
Top, Left front....1.80 or .80
Top, right front...A circle with 37 in middle of dots and dashes
Any help appreciated |
| Ford/Holley Carb -- Phil, 05/29/2003
0k guys, the latest info ive found on my C5AF-BV carb is that it is a 66 427 High Riser race carb. date code is 603. any comments? |
| | That's correct. More were sold by dealers than on new cars. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/30/2003
n/m |
| | There were no factory 427High Riser equipped cars. -- Royce Peterson, 05/30/2003
The High Riser was strictly a crate engine. It was installed by Dearborn Steel Tubing in some 1964-65 Comets, Falcons and Thunderbolts but those were not factory installations.
By 1966 the High Riser was on the way out and the Medium Riser was current. Early Tunnel Port parts were being tested.
I would say that all carbs of the part number referenced were over the counter items and could be installed on anything.
Royce |
| | | RE: There were no factory 427High Riser equipped cars. -- Phil, 05/30/2003
Thanks for the info guys |
| | | | Light Weight Galaxies Don't Count? -- Ted E., 05/31/2003
'63 and '64 Variety. |
| | | | | No. -- Royce Peterson, 06/01/2003
They were not factory installed. They were built at Dearborn Steel Tubing just like the Falcons, Comets etc. They are certainly worth mentioning, very desirable cars indeed. A C5 carburetor with 1966 manufacture date would of course not be correct for a 1963-64 Galaxie either.
Royce |
| | | | | | RE: No. -- Dennis, 06/05/2003
The 50 1964 Lightweight Galaxies, 25 automatics and 25 four speeds, were in fact built on Domestic Special Order at the Atlanta Assy Plant starting 17 Dec. 1963 and not at the Dearborn Steel Tubing Co.
They were the only factory built 427 Hi Riser cars. I used to own one and have numerous paperwork to support my statements.
Dennis |
| | | | | | | No kidding? -- Royce Peterson, 06/05/2003
I learn new stuff all the time and have never heard that before. What sort of documentation exists?
Royce |
| | | | | | | | No kidding - most likely done for ease of homologation. [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/06/2003
n/m |
| | | | | | | RE: No. -- John, 06/05/2003
Hello Dennis,
Weren't they built under the home office reserve DSO of 84 with an additional 4 digit # after that signifying liteweight with auto or liteweight with manual.Was it something like 84-0007 and 84-0018.And speaking of DSO codes I recently pulled a 1964 Galaxie 500 2 dr hdtp out of the woods with the help of good friend McQ that is an R-code with a 2 digit build # built in the Twin Cities plant that has no DSO code at all does any one know what the significance of that is if any or was it just a mistake of the employee stamping out the data plates. |
| | | | | | | | RE: No. -- Dennis, 06/05/2003
John,
Yes, that is correct. DSO 84-0007 for the automatic transmission and 84-0018 for the four speed.
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| | | | | | | | Sure - there's always a PO # after the Sales Ofc. # [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/06/2003
n/m |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Sure - there's always a PO # after the Sales Ofc. # [n/m] -- John, 06/06/2003
Are you talking about the DSO spot on the data plate,because the only time I've seen anything other than the 2 digit DSO code there was when the car had some sort of special eqipment or paint. |
| | | | | | | | | | Exactly. So, '0018' is the PO-number for that 'lot.' [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/08/2003
n/m |
| | | | | | | | No DSO code -- hawkrod, 06/08/2003
i had wondered about this myself as i have owned several cars and only found the answer recently. cars without DSO codes in the early to mid 60's are vehicles built for no particular shipping destination. these are vehicles used to keep the line running when there was no orders. ford kept a pool of vehicles to fill orders in high demand months that were made during slow periods. since they had no idea where the car would eventually go it was not issued a DSO number. i really had wondered about this as i have 2 62 tbirds built the week after Xmas and no DSO. took a lot of research and some good luck to find a dealer service letter explaining vehicles without DSO numbers. hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | | RE: No DSO code -- John, 06/09/2003
Thanks for the info Hawk this particular car was built 8 Aug 63 so you would think they would have had plenty of orders but maybe they were still trying to get the new model production rolling. |
| parts -- joseph Kellerman, 05/29/2003
Howdy
where do I go to purchase parts for the FE.
I use to be able to get just about anything thru the parts stores at reasonable prices but it seems none of them carry anything now.
I need things like dip stick tube and transmission lines etc. for my 1965 bird. The speciallty parts stores are very high.
5/29/03 |
| | RE: parts -- Charlie, 05/30/2003
fomo.com or post what parts you need right here and put attention MR. F,
Charlie |
| | RE: parts -- JKellerman, 05/30/2003
ATTENTION MR. F
I'm building a 65 bird and would like some parts- perferably good to excellent shape. At the present time I need a dip stick tube and if still available some NEW pre-bent transmission lines. Later I will need new brake hoses. pads and shoes and possibly rotors. I have not evaluated the calipers yet--hoping for just rebuild kit. |
| intake repair-HELP -- Chad, 05/29/2003
I have a intake off a 428 casting # c9ze 9425-b. Had the intake cleaned up and notice a hole in the exhaust cross-over port, can that be patch up? also is there anything special about this intake. Thanks Chad |
| | I don't think it's a 428 intake. -- Dave Shoe, 05/30/2003
I suspect that intake has a large "S" cast onto the top of the #1 runner. If so, it's the intake that came on most all FE cars from 1966-1970. It was available in both 2V and 4V forms, the only difference being the carb flange. Incidental differences between these various "S" intakes include the thermostat housing bore diameret and location of some vacuum ports - nothing big.
The intakes do like to bust through at the bottom right neer the port face. They are not really worth fixing, since you can typically pick them up for about $50.00 or so and are plentiful. You might consider searching out a cast iron 428CJ intake, since it'd be about as heavy but would breathe great for more like $125.00.
Another great choice which deviates from the stock theme but works great in stock applications is the Edelbrock Performer RPM (not the plain Performer).
Other appropriate 4V intakes tend to be a little more spendy and because they are used there might be problems. Some others are just plain inappropriate, such as the old SP2P from Edelbrock.
Just my opinions,
Shoe. |
| | | RE: I don't think it's a 428 intake. -- Chad, 05/30/2003
Thank's for the info. Was going to throw it my 360 for fun, get rid of my 2 barrel! Now come up with PLAN B :) |
| | | | RE: I don't think it's a 428 intake. -- Barry B, 05/30/2003
C9ZE-B is a '69 390, 428 cast iron 4V intake. It's not an "S" but a regular flat style, nothing exciting. Hope the pic loads...
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| | | | | Thanks for the update. -- Dave Shoe, 05/30/2003
It's apparently the same as a "T" intake found in 1966-later marine applications. I suspect it was brought out for hood-clearance issues, possibly for 390 shaker application? (total guess - don't believe it).
It's the same as on most 1966-72 pickup trucks, except that the trucks are all 2-barrel units. The 1973-76 390s inherited a modified version of this intake with an EGR port in the carb flange. You'll note it also looks identical to all 1958-65 iron intakes, except the port face is tapered to port match the 1958-65 head.
It's neat to learn the Mustang (C9ZE says Mustang) got this intake. I was unaware of it's use on cars.
Shoe. |
| | | | | | Sure... more info -- Barry B, 05/30/2003
Hi Dave, I have seen the C9ZE on a 390IP in a '69 stang and a 428 in a '69 LTD and it looks identical to the C8ZE-B intake. Interesting, it has the short intake ports but check out the old style hump on the back for the road draft tube except it's totally solid, no machining. Here's a pic of the D4 truck intake:
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| | | | | | | RE: Thank's for the info -- Chad, 05/31/2003
The intake came of a 428, STD block, IU crank, anyway's it used to be a marine engine. in the process of building it up. put it in my 1976 F-150. SLEEPER TRUCK!!
Chad |
| Head Gaskets -- Mark, 05/29/2003
Guys, I could use a reference on finding a set of 428 CJ head gaskets, sized 4.17-4.2" (diameter). Can anyone steer me in the right direction as my engine is bored .30 and I can't find any decent head gaskets to fit! Please shoot me an email if you know of a source - I am at mcolburn@compuserve.com. Thank you. |
| | RE: Head Gaskets -- Wes Adams 428CJ, 05/29/2003
Mark, Try a Fel-Pro gasket ( part #1020 ) That has a steel wire ring on them or Ford racing also makes one too ( part # FOR-M-6051-A427 )That should work! I do belive that thay have a 4.400" gasket bore dia. I hope that I helped you out. Wes Adams Ford428CJ |
| | | RE: Head Gaskets -- Geoff McNew, 05/29/2003
Felpro 1020 were on my SCJ when I yanked the old CJ heads and went with Edelbrocks. Felpro 1020 is also what Edelbrock recommends for their aluminum FE heads. The ring is sorta 4.4" dia., but is out of round to clear big 2.19" 427 valves. Compressed thickness is like 0.041" if you're figuring mech. compression ratio. |
| | | | The big-bore gaskets do fatigue as time passes. -- Dave Shoe, 05/30/2003
If you drive a lot in performance situations, it's my personal opinion you'll want to think about replacing the head gaskets every few years, as they will tend to relax at the hottest part between the cylinders after being pounded back and forth (by neighboring cylinders) about a hundred million times.
At any rate, I now use the hundred million hard-driven combustion cycles per cylinder as my irrelevant acid test as to whether they need replacing, note:
3000RPM = 1500 combustions per cylinder per minute.
Drive an hour a day makes it 90,000 combustions a day.
Drive three years makes 100 million combustion cycles.
I'm saving my blown FelPro 1020 as a reminder.
THin gaskets tend to get less side loading from thrusts, less thermal shock, and thend to have more material between cylinders, and thus tend to clamp better.
Also, if you don't mind a little extra compression, don't forget the steel shim head gaskets. They're very easy to find at a good price. Some folk have trouble getting them to seal coolant from the start, but they've done well for me. Beware, there ate two major types of steel shim head gaskets:
1) The round bore version has a reinforcing "rolled over lip" at the bores only, and this helps seal in large bore performance applications
2) The non-round bore (has valve-like reliefs) shim gasket does NOT fit the 427 bore and it does not have a rolled lip at the bores. It is simply embossed and works reliably in stock and mild performance applications.
Minor variations of both types of gasket are abundant.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE: The big-bore gaskets do fatigue as time passes. -- Gene, 10/28/2003
Hey Dave, down here in FLa, these gaskets are non existant, ha! Got a 427 in my 73 PU, had to go with the felpro 040 gasket, sure would appreciate a number for the tin (stock) gasket to get the comp. up to a good number. The boys at ford are too young to find this stuff on their puters, I guess.. As ever, Geno. |
| | RE: Head Gaskets -- giacamo, 10/28/2003
mark use fel-pro gaskets i beleave thear the best made.i have no problems on any size engins that i have used them on. |
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