It will have a frisky idle butthe converter will allow good street manners, I like that cam a lot. Should be a good combination. Be sure to check valve to piston clearance, it will be in need of some cutting on the intake side I predict due to the larger diameter valves and on the exhaust due to the longer duration and higher lift.

Royce

if that has a 112 lobe center it will have a good lumpy idle with good vacuum for accessories. however if the lobe center is tighter like 110 or 108 it will be really lopy.
the 50 off numbers are probable 224/236 which is very streetable. and the lift should not be a problem. 5500 rpm is probably the tops for it on the rpm scale. after all of that i think you will like it

Similar combination...Edelbrock heads, RPM intake, headers...

The 278-2 is a bit larger in lift and duration than your 272-2 selection. My idle is fairly smooth, vacuum is 13" hg, power is soft until around 3k rpm and then "hold on." Pulls hard to the rev limiter at 6k rpm. The wide lobe centers really favor the higher rpm breathing characteristics of the Edelbrock heads and my 3.89 gear. Whether you'll be happy with that cam depends on how you use the car and what your rear ratio is.

The lobe separation angles have a lot to do with how a cam will work for you. I think you're very safe with that selection. It's a fairly mild grind with good street manners. It doesn't have the punch of a cam with 110 degree or less separation but you get good idle and vacuum. I would call it a stealth cam.

Your description is normal for two pipes which are located close together.

If pipes are close, they cannot radiate heat as well as widely separated pipes. Also, the rear corner is likely shrouded from fan convection and higher temps will be the result.

What you've got sounds like it may be a normal function header pipe cooling, and not a result of combustion imbalance. I suspect all is normal.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/message?forumid=74182&messageid=1034405069

Just guessing,
Shoe.

Scott,
re use the bolt that held the fuel pump eccentric and timing chain on. Just wind the bolt back into the end of the cam and then slowly pull on the cam it will come unstuck and keep the cam central as you pull it out of the block. If the bearings are be gentle as you remove the cam as to not damage the cam bearings!

Peter.

This is the original 390GT cam. Some reference books say it was also used in 428CJ but I have doubts.

The -A 390GT camshaft specs are .438" lift (intake) and .438" lift (exhaust). It has a 115 degree lobe center and 256 degrees duration at .006" valve lift or approximately 210 degrees at .050". A really mild cam but has great driveability and mountains of low end torque.

The other 390GT / 428CJ cam, C60Z-6250-B is a little better for performance (270 / 290 .481" / .490") but still a snoozer compared to say for example a Comp Cams 268H.

Royce

New frame mounts, engine and isolater. More if you have a 4 spd car as all the clutch pieces are different as well. You can pick up the engine side of the mounts on http://fomoco.com but I'm not sure if Mr. F has the frame mounts you'd have to ask him.
Charlie

I'm assuming you are changing small block to big block?

n/m

the car has tilt wheel

"Rag joint"....$19.95 from Mustangs Unlimited

You'd have to post a good pic for any one to respond well to that question. Best bet is take it to the machine shop and see. I've seen a couple of major repairs done, but some how loose faith in durability.
Charlie

I've always worried about repairing cast iron cylinder blocks, but am slowly learning that most FE block failures are repairable.

Most critical in the repair is the selection of the proper shop to do the repair. I can recommend Crow Custom Cast Welding in Hudson, Wisconsin. A local 427 FE race engine builder uses them to do all kinds of radical repairs to 427 blocks. All blocks return to racing service with excellent results. Other FErs have found this same shop and report top notch results. I'm unaware of other shops, but there are likely a dozen or so around the country that can do the job right, though perhaps none have more current FE experience than Crow Custom.

Again, the technology is over my head. I only know that if you improperly weld cast iron, the graphite converts to carbide and the block becomes unworkable. You will want to call this shop to learn whether the repair is practical. Shipping may be a stumbling point, as you either need a freight contract with a trucking firm, or you need to be near a www.forwardair.com terminal, if you want to ship the block for less than $500.00 round trip (keeping one way trips well under a hundred bucks is the goal). Trucking firms are not cost-friendly to the uninitiated, as 70% discounts are fairly customary when you have connections.

Here's a post which discusses the topic a bit more:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/message?forumid=74182&messageid=1051981838

Shoe.

Saw an episode of 2-Guys Garage a while back and they had a fella weld repair an iron block for them using 99%+ Nickle stick & NO preheat....took 5 minutes. But Shoe knows his metalurgy. Also, this falls into the "art & magic" category; i.e., Sam Memmolo wouldn't attempt the weld himself...they had this cat do it for them. I'd talk to Crow.

...pistons and intake.

The 2V engine was typically calibrrated to run on regular gasoline (9.5:1 CR), and the 4V on Premium (10.5:1 CR). The piston compression was the difference.

If you are looking for a little extra oomph, the way to go would be an Edelbrock RPM intake and a small 4V carb.

Nowadays, the old 9.5:1 CR is great for modern premium gasoline, and it'll work with regular in most cases, also. Since the Edelbrock "Performer RPM" (not the plain Performer, as those are hardly more than stock) intake will breath far better than a stock intake, but it's "velocity" design will allow it to work with a stock cam. The lack of an exhaust crossover in the RPM intake meads you'll have to disable any "heat riser" valve in the passenger side exhaust manifold, if one exists.

The Performer RPM is a well priced intake (for an FE), and the difference from stock will be noticed. Keep an eye out for hood clearance, however, as the intake also sits roughly an inch higher than the stock 1958-65 style iron intake and "T" intake (1966-76 emissions version of 1958-65 intake).

JMO,
Shoe.

n/m

Are you referring to the vent drilled into the lump on the back surface of early iron intakes? These would be on cars equipped with a road draft tube that snaked down the bellhousing and vented under the car.

I'm trying to recall the type of PCV system used in New York (open PCV type) and California (closed PCV) editions of these early 390s, as these were an alternate to the road draft tube used in most states. At any rate, I'm suspecting you are referring to the 1961-64 era 390.

I don't know of any specific sources, but they can be found.

Shoe.