Worth about $400 if its useable as is. $300 is it needs turning. Or more. Or eBay you could get half again that much if your into creative writing. LOL

This is a great '66 Galaxie. And it comes with a truck load of nice parts. This car was dicussed extensively on anothe site a few months ago. Something I learned from that thread about this specific car was that the LTD grille was a factory option "Deluxe Grille" available to the Galaxie 500 orderer/buyer.

$14K isn't that bad at all.....sure you can spend that same amount for a brand new.....Focus! That Focus will be worth $7K in '04 and worth a hundred dollar bill in '06.

http://fomoco.com/forummain/reply.asp?ID=48432&Reply=48432

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do you have a pcv and is it working? A faulty pcv would definitely account for the breather smoke. Start with the premise that ALL engines have blowby to some degree or another. With no pcv that blowby will come out of the breathers.

The tailpipe smoke is a bit more complicated. Could be rings or valve stem seals to name a couple. Diagnosis kinda depends on what mode of operation the engine is in when it is happening.

I had a machine shop accidently leave the valve stem seals off of a set of heads once. They smoked nicely. I was not happy.


More info needed here.

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Me again!the part #`s i mention above are;s7ms-6653-a(heat exchanger);s8ms-6a653-a(connector):and some hoses and stuff. Availability and prices, anyone? thanx!.

Just wanted to say that if Charles Crites' headers are of the same quality as his fiberglass reproductions, they should be good. I used his T-bolt style glass hood and a rear bumper for my '61 Starliner. The fit was right. They're high quality. Crites emphasizes quality and he stands up for and behind his parts. My hood was damaged in shipping. Charles remimbursed me and then he went after the trucking co.

Good company in my opinion. Charles Crites was the originator/president/head honcho of the Performance Ford Club of America for many years. Knows his stuff.

I wanted to see him grab second sooner. The car probably would have melted the tires right off.

The only time I ever have this problem (not due to things you've already replaced, like the rad, etc.) is when the water jackets of the block and heads are filled with a build up of rust, etc. And of course this gets worse as time goes on, as in your case. Did you have the block and heads seriously hot-tanked when it was rebuilt? And did you know a lot of stuff doesn't come out until everything dries out...up to a couple of weeks after hot tanking?

On the other hand, you might just be running to lean a mixture.

0.060 or even 0.090 is too thin in my opinion and the cause of your problem.

I have done the following to a running engine to pin the problem down. I installed a electronic temperature gauge, rotatary switch and several sending units. The gauge could be connected to any of the sending units via the switch. I had sending units at the water pump inlet at the bottom radiator hose, the back of the block down by the culinders on the drivers side, at the front of the manifold behind the thermostat, and in front of the thermostat by the upper radiator hose.

I would suspect that thin cylinder walls would, if anything, allow a better transfer of heat to the coolant. Water conducts heat better than iron, so if you have less iron.....Besides, if you have a core shift problem, ...it all averages out...thin on one side, thick on the other. Despite what you say about the water jackets being "clear", I very much suspect they have a rust build-up that is the problem. See?...thicker cylinder walls (due to rust) cause overheating, not thinnner

have you degreed the balancer? i have seen many balancers that had a slipped outer ring so the engine runs with retarded timing. pull plug number one and bring it up to TDC and then look and see where the timing mark is. also check to make sure the dist advance mechanism is working. retarded timing will heat an engine up and keep it warm. hawkrod

Mike have you tried giving it a little more fuel? My 428 (out of a 66 T-Bird) ran hot with an Edelbrock 750. Put the Holley back on, jetted to 80 in front, 83 secondaries and it cooled off considerably. Mines running with a 180 therm. now.

I feel your pain.

I'm going through exactly the same thing with my 61 bird conv 390. I give up.

I have tried everything! the dame thing keeps overheatiing and percolating out. I've tried everything you have. I even went to the junkyard to see if I mounted the fan backwards!

I only went 30 over on a standard 390. If anyone can solve it they're better than me.

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If everything is stock, (he he, no velocity stacks!!) it will fit - as will a medium riser intake, as long as there are no carb spacers and the stock air cleaner is used.

It is the distance between the top of the piston (flat part) and the corresponding area of the cylinder head when it is bolted to the block. Keeping this distance to about .040" is generally accepted as being ideal for steel-rod street and mild race engines with a limit of about 6000-6500 rpm. Higher rpm engines or those with aluminum rods need more to allow for the 'growth' and to avoid contact. The idea is that as the piston rises on the comp stroke it gets very close to the head and the air/fuel mix from that area is 'squished' out across the chamber, helping the combustion process by inducing swirl and evacuating end gasses from the area furthest away from the spark plug (ignition initiation point) The upshot of all this in case you are wondering is that you can usually build an engine with slightly higher compression than normal and avoid detonation. It is said that if an engine is just tipping into detonation at, say, 10:1 with good quench (.040") then putting thicker gaskets in to drop the compression will actually make things worse due to the loss of good quench clearance. Try to think of it as having a custard slice in your palm and slapping it with your other hand. The custard flies out! Hope this explains a bit for you.
Cheers, Martin.