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| Rare 390 -- Cliff, 01/08/2002
i got off the phone with a guy who told me he had a rare 390. Said it was one of only 55 of its type. Ive been around Fe's for a while but have never heard of anything quite like this. Can anyone tell me if this guy is full of it or if he has a rare one. He had it in a mustang but is now dropping a boss 429 into to it. The guy is into all of this so I sort of believe him but i have never heard of anything like this. Any help would be great. Thanks. |
| | RE: Rare 390 -- Bob, 01/08/2002
So why is it rare? |
| | | I only know of 1 rare 390... -- Laserman, 01/08/2002
That was the experimental Aluminum block 390 used in a few prototype Shelby Cobras. AFAIK, most of those were pulled from the cars and I don't know the whole story of what happened to them after that (I think they were returned to Ford who scrapped some of them and sold off the rest). I also have a vague recollection of Holman-Moody offering them for sale. Someone else might have more info on these, but that's the only rare 390 I can think of (and they're probably the rarest FE that wasn't a one-off).
-Shane |
| | | | RE: what's rare? -- Mike McQuesten, 01/08/2002
I would consider that aluminum block 390 rare indeed. Especially since their existence is based on hearsay not documentation. Interesting hearsay to say the least.
In my humble opinion I believe the '61/early '62 genuine High Performance 390 is pretty darned hard to find. I'm not talking about the hydraulic liftered, cast ironed intake, 4100 Autolite 300 horse unit that hauled many a '61/'62 T-'bird & full size Ford/Merc. I'm talking the about the special 390 block allowing solid lifters only with special performance camshaft, oil pressure relief valve, heavy duty main web casting, HP rods, special high compression cylinder heads with high RPM valve springs, aluminum intakes either single 4V(ture 375 horse) or a trio of Holleys (401 horses), dual point distributor, large diameter generator pulley, and a few more unique performance oriented features. How many of these have you seen? Lots of 390s out there but not many of these stout screamers.
And yes, as I referred to a few weeks ago, any 390 can be built to the high performance horsepower standards but it's still not a genuine HP 390. Just like a 390 or 428 can be built to easily match the power of a 427...but it ain't a 427!
So that's my nomination for a rare 390. Second place would go to any genuine '61 - '65 Police 390. They weren't built with as many unique features as the genny HP but they still had a unique solid lifter cam, the shorty HP exhaust manifolds and the HP rods. They were rated at 330 horse and are a much better runner than the mini cammed overrated 300 horse wheezer.
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| | | | RE: I only know of 1 rare 390... -- Travis Miller, 01/08/2002
In the late 80's I purchased a rusted out '61 HiPo Starliner. The original blown up 390-401 had a spun bearing. It was in the shed with the heads off out behind the building where the car was sitting. The car was too far gone so I took all the suspension and brakes off and put it all in a cherry '61 2-dr post. I was able to salvage the crank, heads, shorty headers, and intake set up from the engine. I tried to get the old stuck pistons out but the rings were so rusted to the cylinder walls that I actually knocked a wall out destroying the block.
A couple years later I relayed the story to a guy about destroying the HiPo block trying to get it apart. He told me that I should have gotten the stuff that is used by marine engine builders. Seems that when a marine engine is salvaged after sitting at the bottom of a lake or river, the pistons rust to the walls in no time. This stuff will break the rusted rings loose after soaking for a while. He said he had used it on a rusted antique car engine that had sat for over 50 years.
Anyone out there familiar with the product? Said it was marine related. I just do not remember the name of it. |
| | | | | "Skid" is one name. -- Dave Shoe, 01/08/2002
I forget the other.
I gather that using Skid or the other popular solvent (by the gallon) will free up a rusted-to-rock engine with little effort.
I will eventually be trying this on a couple engines in my garage, in association with a couple bottle-jacks, a scrap head used as a support, and some threaded stock from Home Depot. I wish I had time to do it now, but that project will have to wait.
Shoe. |
| | | | | | www.kanolaboratories.com.......[n/m] -- Highspeed, 01/10/2002
[n/m] |
| | | | | | | That's right. Kroil was the other one. -- Dave Shoe, 01/10/2002
Kroil was the other brand I was trying to think of.
Shoe. |
| how hard -- Mac, 01/07/2002
ok now i got a job again im gonna be making trips back east alot to looks for 427's where peopole think they are 390's or whatever can any of recomand any yard's where they got alot of older ford so i can find one of there |
| Mr F Answer to rev limiter -- Stuart Cofer, 01/07/2002
My 428 cj is a manual choke,non a/c early 1970 model.Do you think it should have a rev limiter? |
| Valve Covers - 428CJ -- Roger Hillman, 01/07/2002
Are there any valve covers available that will clear a custom set of Comp. roller rockers? |
| anyone ever used the new Holley Street Avenger -- mikeb, 01/07/2002
carbs? Supposedly this is a 'no trouble" carb, available in 570,670, 770, and 870 cfm ratings. If I go with one, and keep the original 735 put up, would a 770 or 870 be the best choice? I figure Ford put a 735 on it for a reason. Input anyone? I haven't been to Holley's website yet. I saw the ad for these carbs in Car Craft. Their web address is www.holley.com thanks |
| | RE: anyone ever used the new Holley Street Avenger -- Mac, 01/07/2002
the stret avengers are nice i dont own one but at the cobra shop they use them on the mild 427's and they are pretty damn easy to work with change any setting with out taking anthing apart |
| | | the Avenger ad says... -- mikeb, 01/07/2002
No trouble adjustable vacuum secondary, a 60 second adjustment can give you either 6% more acceleration or a 5% improvement in fuel economy,power valve with million mile blow out protection, metering system designed for monster low end torque, awesome acceleration, and huge top end horsepower, External float adjustment with sight plugs. Basically, I get the impression that this is a Doofus proof carb, which is what I need! Let me know what you guys think. on a 428 CJ, which would be better, 770 or 870 cfm? thanks |
| | | "kick-ass no trouble street performance carb. -- mikeb, 01/07/2002
Thats what they say! |
| 427 crate motor -- John M. Sutton, 01/07/2002
You may remember I needed to replace a bad 390 in my son's '76 F-150 back in October, just to get it to GA. I bought a boneyard motor, which turned out to be a Ford 427 4v crate motor set up (most likely) as a 390. It turned out to be an EXCELLENT motor, very clean on the inside, with Ford .10 over bearings. I need to sell the truck, and would like to get a good value for the motor/truck, but I do not want to misrepresent it. Is it worth anything as a specialty motor? (I remember several posts here about a '66 427 bare block on ebay, calling it a swindle in progress. I prefer to be as candid and honest as possible.) What are your suggestions for me? Thanks for your help and understanding! |
| | RE: 427 crate motor -- Ed Foral, 01/07/2002
How did you ID it as a 427? What do you mean "set up" as a 390?
Ed |
| | | RE: 427 crate motor -- John M. Sutton, 01/07/2002
Ed: I'll try to answer here as best I can: 1. This motor was sold to me as a 360 (based on the valve cover decals) out of a '73 F-350 flatbed. The boneyard owner told me the truck (which was rusted out) had been the previous boneyard owners. They purchased the motor in the middle '70s as a spare, from a wholesaler out in OK, and put it in about '93 or '94. Just before I put it in, I noticed the motor looked strange to me. It was the correct FE setup ( as opposed to a 351 block), but it had features I had never seen before. The one that caught my eye was the reinforcement bosses cast into the sides of the motor. Unfortunately, I was pressed for time, and only checked the rod and main bearings for excessive clearance. They were Ford stamped, and were .10 over. (I wish I had checked behind the flex plate for the casting info.) Some folks on this list asked me for info on the motor, and they helped me ID it as a probable 427 block, sold as a Freddie Jones replacement motor. 2. Using the hanger measurement trick, it works out to 3.98 on the stroke. Apparently, based on what I've heard, Ford used extra 427 blocks - some with and some without crossbolts - as crate motors, so I am guessing this is a 390, which would have been correct as a replacement for the F series. I wish I knew more. I'd love to put that motor in my old '66, but I need the money out of it. Please feel free to ask questions! Ican look at the motor for further ID info, if it will help any. May take some time, since I can only get on the Internet at work, but I can do it. Thanks again! |
| | | | It's a 390 block, not a 427. I don't get it. -- Dave Shoe, 01/07/2002
Lots of 360/390 blocks came with ribs on the sides back in the early-mid '70s. These weren't performance blocks and didn't have thick cylinders. Also, I believe Fred Jones is a big truck motor rebuilder, not a NASCAR shop.
How do you get 427 out of your engine? I'm unaware that Ford ever used 427 blocks as 390s. 396's yes, but not 390s. Casting genuine 427 water jackets is an expensive PITA. Ford would likely only do it if they were getting paid a proper fee, especially since 360/390 blocks were being popped out cheap back then.
I understand that some magazine articles speak about boring 390 blocks out to 427 specs, but that doesn't make it a good idea. And stock 427 blocks can't be shrunken to fit 360/390 pistons - the raw cylinder castings are too big (which means there were approximately zero 360/390 engines made using them).
If you go selling it on ebay as a 427, someones gonna start a thread in it in these forums. Keep in mind that the last seller who got attention in these forums because of a squirrely ebay auction on ebay DID still sell his thin-walled 360 block for $850.00, just because it had a 427 marking on it and he misworded his entire auction description around the marking.
I emailed the buyer after auction and he was confident the used block in the photo was a NOS(!) 427 block because the seller told him it was. He sounded a lot like you do right now (except he was buying), and was eager to pay his $850.00+shipping, and he was also quick to tell me how wrong I was.
What am I missing?
Shoe. |
| | | | | Your missing the stroke of 3.98 -- Bob, 01/07/2002
so it should be a 410 or a 428. If the stroke is 3.98. |
| | | | | RE: It's a 390 block, not a 427. I don't get it. -- John M. Sutton, 01/08/2002
Shoe: I appreciate your help and information: it must be me that's missing something, not you, because I know I'm not any expert on this! It looks like I misunderstood from earlier messages that I might have a 427 block. Would the casting code tell me anything for sure? If so, where would I find it. I'll try to get to it this weekend. I'll also re-measure the stroke a little more carefully. Thanks again for your help, and for your advice. I'd really like to pin this thing down as to what it is. |
| | | | | | The best thing to do is gap the cylinder jacket. -- Dave Shoe, 01/09/2002
If you wanna figure out a probable max bore without spending too much, do the drill bit check in all six core plug holes.
Using drill bits ranging from maybe 4/64" to 20/64", look for the biggest bit that will fit between each of the cylinders and write down all six numbers. The cylinders are tapered on the water jacket side, so you'll want to check in several positions to be sure you've found the loosest area for that pair of cylinders.
I believe when I'm reasy to get serious, I'm gonna add the six numbers together for each block (in 64ths) and then divide by 6. This will give an "average" number which may best portray the intent of the original sand core that was stuffed into the mold box. Presently, I'm only using the single biggest gap in the block, bit this is not as precise an indicator.
I'm working in 64ths to keep the math easy, and also to help make me believe I'm actually using pin gauges. Screw real "pin gauges", because they cost too much and you can't use them for anything else. Drill bits are cheaper, and good for something after I'm done using them as gap checkers.
Note that this method is still being developed (I haven't checked very many blocks, yet), but it's logically the best way to tell what cylinder jacket cores were installed in the mold. Any jacket cores would fit, but it's nice to know which ones actually got stuffed into your block, so you have a rough idea what kind of cubes you can RELIABLY expect.
If 8/64" bit fits snug in the loosest spot, you may have a 427.
If 12/64" fits snug at the loosest spot, then you may have a 361/391/428.
If 16/64" fits snug at the loosest spot, it's likely a regular 330/360/390/410.
I haven't yet ever checked a 332/352 block, and am only apporoximating, as I don't yet have any REAL knowledge of what these numbers should be.
Note that if you look into the core plug holes, you'll likely see steel wires cast into the blocks. These wires, known as chaplets, are placed between the cores and the mold to assure everything is accurately positioned in the mold box. The chaplets permanently fuse into the engine block and become part of the casting.
Also note that the person assembling the mold could stuff any core into the mold box that was specified. I'm also working on the theory that the "C", "X", "A", "H", "I", II", or whatever character was scratched into the back of "nonstandard" blocks were indovidually scratched in by a screwdriver by a foundry worker at the time the mold was packed. This would be done, because the "job sheet" which may have accompanied each block casting was already printed before the sand was removed from the storage area (at Ford in Dearborn in 1958, this was a room which held 54,000 tons of fine dry sand), and because the cope and drag which defined the external block shape was the same no matter which block was being cast, side oiler excepted.
The only reason you've never seen the famous "105" markng in a car is because it wasn't around until after FEs were no longer put into cars. Note that "105" blocks may have wimpy or tough cylinder jackets, depending on what the job called for and what cores were stuffed in for that particular job.
JMO, Shoe.
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| | | | For John Sutton.... -- kevin, 01/07/2002
First it has to have .010 UNDER bearings, as the crank is ground under. No crossbolts? A lot of 360's had the ribs and rear casting that says "427", no biggie there. Now I suggest you pull a sparkplug and take a good look inside. You are going to see a piston top that is flat with 4 reliefs, or a small dish. ALL 427's had forged pistons, with either a flat top (63 4-V only) flat with two tits and a trough for a valve relief, (63 8-V up to early 65 4-V or 8-V, a 1/4" dome-65-67 Medium Riser, not too likely, or a flat top with trough and no tits, 68 (Cougar) and TRW replacement # L2205, or a marine version that has a "D" shaped dish. I'm not going into the Hi-Risers or the racing ones that you cant possibly have. How about the core plugs on the side of the block, after 65 they were a big pipe plug that screwed in. Now as far as the stroke goes, I think you will find the # on the crank to be absolutely the sure fire way to tell. And one more thing, if you pulled a rod cap, you would have to use a 19/32nd's socket to do it. but I would bet the farm that you used a 3/8th's to do it, didn't you. I have only seen two non cross bolt 427's in my life, and they are my life. No junkyard sheenie is going to sell you a 427 for that kind of money unless he is blind, deaf and really dumb. I imagine the dumbass that bought that block on e-bay will never admit that he ran out of K-Y jelly about now. I dont mean to be so harsh, but there is so much misinformation out there that most people really dont know what to believe sometimes. It could be a 410 or 428 if the stroke checks out. 428 Cobra jets used the bigger rod bolt that takes the bigger nut/socket by the way before someone jumps me for that little oversite, sorry. Whatever you have though, I hope you enjoy FE's as they are the most versatile of all of Detroit's offerings ever. IMO |
| | | | | From John Sutton.... -- John M. Sutton, 01/08/2002
Kevin: Thanks! I'd really like to identify this thing if I can, because, as I mentioned to Dave Shoe, it looks like I misunderstood information in earlier posts (back In September and October of this year.) And yes, I very much enjoy FE engines, although my budget limits me to rebuilding for my trucks rather than anything fancy. Let me address some of your excellent reply: 1. The rod/mains were .010, as you correctly pointed out. I should have been more precise. 2. Your descriptions of the piston applications were a bit hard for me to follow; what piston should I expect to find if this motor is a plain jane FE truck motor? 3. Stroke: I'll try to get a more precise measurement using a hanger wire. I must confess I'm not ready to pull the motor or crank yet. On the rod bearing caps, I'm almost positive I used a correctly fitting 9/16, or possibly a 1/2. Whichever one I used, it fit correctly on the nut (which means that it wasn't a 9/16 socket on a 19/32) Which means either my memory is incorrect or what? 4. As far as the motor goes, the boneyard salesman was young, and knew nothing about FE engines, or really, anything Ford earlier than about 1980. He thought the 360 was a modified verison of a 351 or something. It was in salt country, where anything older than about 15 years gets crushed. I had to eyeball the engine to make sure it was an FE. I might not know much, but I knew enough to get a correct engine! Thanks for your patience, Kevin. John |
| | | | | | Get yourself a...... -- kevin, 01/08/2002
small flexible light to probe in the spark plug hole. I have several expensive one's, but Farm and Fleet had the "Lisle" brand for about ten bucks that will do. Go to #1 at TDC and then rotate a little more so the piston is down and easier to see the top If it is just a flat top with the 4 little eyebrows it is not too likely to be a 410 or 428, as they had a small dish in the center. This would indicate a 360 truck or a 390 car piston. Since you indicated a 3.98 stroke, I doubt you could of been off that far to be a 360. If you pull the pan, a 1U stamping would indeed be a 3.98 stroke. There are a number of 3.78 stroke #'s, so I would have to wait till you pulled the pan. |
| Correct carb for '66 352? -- John M. Sutton, 01/07/2002
Well, folks, I am back up on the Internet, at work at least, and can get to this fine site. I finally completed my move to SC/GA, and am looking forward to finding RUST-FREE parts for my '66 F-100 project. It is a daily driver still, but I want to restore it original as much as possible. This truck has a fuel problem, it is running rich. I changed out the carb 20 years ago for a parts store rubuild, and it has run rich ever since. What is the correct carb tag, and the correct set up for a '66 F-100, manual tranny, 2V 352? |
| c.j. heads -- jeff, 01/06/2002
im going to look at a 70 Q-code mustang in a few days, the engine is not in the car and is in pieces, i read about identifying 428 blocks, but what about c.j. heads? They are different right? thankyou for any answers. |
| | RE: c.j. heads -- Bob Enright, 01/06/2002
All CJ heads are C8OE-N's . |
| | RE: c.j. heads -- Ron Vesterby, 01/07/2002
Someone correct me if I am wrong but isnt the "N" cast in the head between the 2 and 3 plug holes on that flange somewhere. |
| | | RE: c.j. heads -- Travis Miller, 01/07/2002
Yes the N is cast right after the 6090. It says C80E next to one plug and 6090N next to the other one.
As for the CJ cars that ran at the 1968 Winternationals, they were S coded cars that had the 428's put in at Holman-Moody-Stroupe in Long Beach. That is why everyone passed on buying the Don Nicholson restored 428CJ Mustang racecar. They all thought it was a fake until it was learned what Ford did at HMS. |
| | look for 16 ex bolt holes n.m. -- Greg, 01/07/2002
n.m. |
| are C6AE-R heads hard to find? -- Greg R, 01/06/2002
We got my neighbor's 7-Litre home today and the only thing wrong is one head is a C8AE-H. He's going to check with the guy he bought the car from to see if he has another correct one for it. If he doesn't, are C6AE-R heads hard to find?
Also, the FE currently installed in the car has heads marked C4AE-6090. Is it safe to assume it's a 352 or 390?
I'm posting this stuff for my computerless neighbor. I'm sure he'll be asking more as he tries putting this car back to the way it belongs. Thanks for all the help. |
| | RE: are C6AE-R heads hard to find? -- Royce Peterson, 01/06/2002
C6AE-R heads were fairly common and installed on 352, 390, 410, and 428 engines. I went to the Junk Yard two weeks ago and found five of them in a quick walk while peeking under hoods.
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: are C6AE-R heads hard to find? -- Greg R, 01/06/2002
Cool, thanks. |
| | | RE: are C6AE-R heads hard to find? -- FE427TP, 01/07/2002
I'm hard pressed to find 5 or 6 FE's in a junkyard around here LOL, although I did find a set of C1AE-C T-bird heads the other day, left them though cause a valve seat was sinking and they had the nut and bolt thing going on for several exhaust manifold bolts |
| | They were only available in 1966-67. -- Dave Shoe, 01/07/2002
They were available in cars and pickups in 1966-67 only.
I don't know whatthe percentage was, but i seems like about 1/4 to 1/3 of all vehicles made those two years got 'em. Ford did not consider them a performance item, and you'll find them on small 2-barrel motors every bit as often as you'll find them on bigger 4-barrel motors.
JMO, Shoe. |
| Speedometer gear -- Mac, 01/06/2002
I changed the rear in my 67 Galaxie from a 275 ratio to a 350 ratio and of course the speedometer is inaccurate now. I can't find any info on which gear i need can anyone help? Info on car is : 1967 390CU C-6 trans. 225-70 tires and the 350 ratio gear. |
| | | RE: See if this post from our Gen'l. Forum helps... -- Dave Alton, 01/17/2002
Mac, I put 3:50 gears in my 67 coupe (had 3:00's) and changed the speedo gear to 20 teeth and it brought the speedometer back to within 2 MPH, using a radar gun. |
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