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| Please explain this to me.more popping 428cj -- Greg, 01/06/2002
As you'll recall I had the popping cracking 428cj that would idle fine but lay down and pop through the exhaust when under load and part throttle. WELL I replaced the points with a pertronix, replaced the bent pushrod, and checked everything out o.k. Fired it up today and still the cracking popping so I gave it some timing, 18 deg. It was a little better,so if a little is better a lot must be great.. I kept adding timing until it ran fine. The grand total of timing is 26 degrees initial. And it runs great no popping and only a slight bog around the lower rpm range. HOW can this be. Could the previous owner have recurved the dist or degreed the cam to an extent that the engine HATES anything below 20 deg initial advance? I'm gonna need to someone to explain this to me. Maybe I'm stupid. Thanks Greg |
| | First, how about some info: what's the distributor ID #? [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/06/2002
n/m |
| | | 12127 n.m. -- Greg, 01/06/2002
n.m. |
| | | | | c7AF 8C29 got it .n.m. -- Greg, 01/06/2002
n.m. |
| | | | | | For one thing, that's a 390 distributor - not 428CJ. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/07/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | | do you think that could be a problem? n.m. -- Greg, 01/07/2002
n.m. |
| | Did you verify.... -- kevin, 01/06/2002
that the damper ring has not slipped? I have not followed this post, so dont know what has happened. |
| | | how would I do that? n.m. -- Greg, 01/06/2002
n.m. |
| | | | Make a piston stop -- Travis Miller, 01/07/2002
In order to check if the balancer is correctly oriented, you need a way to find exact top dead center on number one cylinder. I made a piston stop out of a spark plug non-fouler adapter. I welded a long bolt through the hole in the non-fouler and ground the tip so it was not sharp as to not damage the top of the piston. After removing all the spark plugs, screw the piston stop in the number one plug hole. Turn the engine over BY HAND, not with the starter. When the piston touches the stop, mark the balancer at the timing pointer. Turn the engine over BY HAND in the other direction until the piston again touches the stop. Again mark the balancer at the stop. Measuring the distance half way between your two new marks is top dead center and should be zero on the original timing mark. If it is not, the outer ring on the balancer has slipped. If it is only off a couple degrees, adjust the pointer or remark the balancer. Once a balancer has been verified that it has not slipped, I always paint a small stripe from the outer ring to the center hub so I will be able to see if it ever does move.
I use to not believe they would slip until I watched one move on a '61 390 while I had a timing light aimed at it. I kept revving the engine, watching the timing mark and outer ring moved slowly all the way around the hub. Needless to say I replaced the balancer on that engine. |
| rev limiter 428cj -- Stuart Cofer, 01/06/2002
I have a 1970 428 cj 4-speed with a build date of 8-22-69.There is no rev limiter and no signs of one being there,no wires or holes in the fender apron.I have read in several places that it should have one but then several people have told me they never had one.What is the real story? |
| Is this a good idea? -- Greg, 01/06/2002
Is it adviseable to run the pcv line to a full vacuum source such as the carb baseplate instead of the air cleaner housing? Or will this pull oil into the intake causing god knows what kind of problems? Thanks for the help. p.s. it's a '69 428 cj
Greg |
| | RE: Is this a good idea? -- Royce Peterson, 01/06/2002
Greg,
Since the factory used manifold vacuum that would make a lot of sense. There are great pictures of how it hooks up in your Ford shop manual.
PCV hooked to the air cleaner wouldn't work. The factory hooked 68 - up oil filler caps to the air cleaner so that the PCV could draw fresh air into the crankcase.
Royce Peterson |
| | | Thank you Mr. Peterson n.m. -- Greg, 01/06/2002
n.m. |
| | RE: Is this a good idea? -- Cruzer, 01/07/2002
Bought "72" F-100 Ranger Sport Custom 3 yrs ago from body and fender nut the exterior is still in awsome shape, but need new motor! I want to replace the existing 390 with either a 351 w or 305. Want lots of chrome and detail but the end result is this. I want to put this motor on an engine stand and add to it gradually, then put in in. I don't know what I can get away with emissions wise. North Carolina has no emissons requirements for "75" or later, but they will still look for factory installed emissions sheet metal, and tubing. This truck will eventually be in the possestion of a 19 yr old Marine who sorely needs new transportation. He has $5000 burning a hole in his pocket. And I'm trying to convince him that putting the money into the truck would be more to his benifit than going out and buying a new or new/used car!! Would love to take the long block and bolt on headers, electronic ignition system, different intake and carb set up nothing more nothing less. Can I get some advice up in here! |
| | RE: Is this a good idea? -- Bill, 01/09/2002
To answer your origional question you are in no danger of pulling any oil from your crankcase through your PCV. They are designed to open only at very lo engine vacuum. The valve is held shut by engine vacuum at idle (when vacuum is at its highest value) and is spring loaded internally to open when you open the throttle. At that point vacuum disappears and any oil suction won't occur. If the pcv fails then and only then would you have that problem and it would immediately be visibly apparent in your exhaust. |
| | | Thanks for the explanation n.m. -- Greg, 01/09/2002
n.m. |
| id 390 engine -- DJ, 01/06/2002
metal tag 390 66 6 5 5J 357 8 Has C6AE-U Heads |
| | RE: id 390 engine -- Mr F, 01/06/2002
metal tag 390 66 6 5 5J
357 8
I'm afraid those numbers seem a little
screwy. May I assume the tag looks more like this?:
|
390 66
6 5-J 357
8 |
This represents a 390 "Z"-code
engine of change level
#8. It was assembled at the Dearborn Engines &
Foundry plant in September, 1965, for use during the 1966
model year. Basic engine ID
#357 appears to have been specific to the Thunderbird car
line, always mated with either a C/M or C-6 automatic.
To learn more, please visit our "Obsolete Engines Textbook". You
can click that link, or use the ENGINES button
found on every page of this Forum. Hope this helps. :-)
Mr
F | |
| | | RE: id 390 engine -- DJ, 01/07/2002
Thank you for your help. d. J. |
| Engine and Carb Tags -- David, 01/06/2002
Are replacement engine and carb tags available for a 1969 428CJ Cougar? Mine are missing and I would like to get some replacements. Where does the engine tag mount? Thanks. |
| | Sure - the best ones are at "martiauto.com" [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/06/2002
n/m |
| | | RE: Sure - the best ones are at "martiauto.com" [n/m] -- David, 01/06/2002
Thanks,What is the cost? What info do you need? |
| | | | RE: Sure - the best ones are at "martiauto.com" [n/m] -- Kevin Marti, 01/07/2002
Each tag costs $30. Shipping is an additional $2 per order. All we need is the door data plate information, your mailing address, and payment.
Kevin Marti
www.martiauto.com
|
| 428 CJ/SCJ comparison -- Jeff H., 01/05/2002
I ran across this web site the other day and I thought you guys might appreciate it. Its a fairly accurate comparsion of the differences/similarities between FE CJ and SCJ cars/motors. I did notice the following mistakes:
1.) SCJ pistons were cast (same as CJ) and not forged as stated in the chart. This seems to be a common misconception. I wonder if it stems from the fact that 429SCJ assemblies got forged pistons?
2.) The chart claims that all factory CJ/SCJ distributors were single point and that the dual point was an over the counter item. A dual point distibutor WAS factory installed on '70 4 speed cars.
I would like your opinions on whether or not these are truly mistakes or whether I am all wet on these two subjects before I e-mail the author.
http://www.bonforums.com/mustang/cobra_1969parts.htm |
| | That site is filled with errors. -- Royce Peterson, 01/06/2002
Check out : www.428cobrajet.com for the real story.
Royce Peterson |
| clutch fan -- stephen, 01/05/2002
Dose anyone out there have a complet clutch fan assembly for my 67 fairlane with 390gt motor? Thanks Stephen |
| | | Thanks -- stephen, 01/07/2002
Thanks your a live saver
Stephen |
| identifying a 428 -- Greg R, 01/05/2002
We're going Sunday to pick up a '66 7 Litre Galaxie that my neighbor bought. The original 428 and 4 speed are not in the car, he messured the bore and knows this engine is a 428. There's another FE engine and an automatic currently in the car and the owner says this may also be a 428 but is not sure. Is there anything we can check on this mystery FE to determine what it is without pulling the heads? Thanks for any help. |
| | RE: identifying a 428 -- Dave Shoe, 01/05/2002
Point the crank somewhere close to TDC. Remove the tranny inspection cover (1/2" wrench, 4 bolts) and sneak a peek at the 1/4" (or so) wide notch at the bottom of the crank at the flywheel. If there is no "huge crescent" next to the notch which has been sliced outta the crankshaft flange, then you've got at least a 390/410/428 on your hands.
To verify it's a 410/428. you gotta pull a spark plug and SOMEHOW measure the stroke. If it's closer to 3.984" than 3.784", then you've got the long crank. Good luck telling the difference!
As for the bore, there's really no way to verify it outsida pulling the heads. By now, you don't know whether sombody has overbored a 390 block or whether you've got a genni 428 block anyhow - they have identical casting indicators on the outside.
Best chance of verifying it's a 428 block is to punch out the center two core plugs and look for the number 428 cast onto the floor. If you don't find it, no problem, it may be located elsewhere or covered by sludge. Pop out the other four core plugs (engine must be out of he car) and use a drill-bit to measure the gap between all bores. If the base of a 1/4" drill bit fits between the water jackets of any of the six core plug holes, you've likely got an overbored 390 block on your hands. If the drill bit don't fit in any of the six positions, you might just have a real 428 on your hands.
Lastly, if you have access to the flywheel face of the block, look for a large "A" (std), "C" (HD), or "X"(428freak) protruding from the face. If you see one of these LARGE characters, then it's very likely a 428 block.
Not pulling the heads? It won't be easy.
JMO, Shoe.
|
| | RE: identifying a 428 -- Earl Wood, 01/05/2002
Not many 7-Litre's around... I own one with toploader. Where are you located? I am in NC. |
| | | RE: identifying a 428 -- Greg R, 01/05/2002
We're in Minnesota and the car is in Wisconsin. It's Ok if the engine in the car is a 390, my nieghbor bought it assuming it would be. The original 428 comes with the car, it's in pieces and was easy to verify bore, etc. The 4 speed and everything else also comes with the car. If the mystery FE turns out to be something better than a 390, well, that's just a bonus. Thanks. |
| | | | RE: identifying a 428 -- Mike McQuesten, 01/05/2002
Based on Dave's initial idea of pulling the flexplate access/inspection cover to id the crank, while looking I would get kinda of excited if I saw the weight you are indicating along with the unique appearance that only a 428 flexplate has. I mention flexplate over flywheel here because Greg indicates that the 7 Litre currently has an automatic installed. Of course, a 390 flexplate can be used with a 428 crank if the proper re balancing procedures have been followed.
Whatever, congratulations on finding a very collectible '66 Ford product. |
| 66 cyclone h-pipe -- blake, 01/04/2002
does anyone out there know if any company has repoed a h-pipe for my 66 390 4v cyclone gt? i tried dearborn classics and they say no. any help w/this out there? |
| C3AE-6090-C heads....390 or 406? -- Earl Wood, 01/04/2002
I recently acquired 2 sets of C3AE-6090-C heads . The references I have all state that they are 406 Tri-Power heads. I have been told that these heads were also used on 63 Galaxie 390 engines. What is the REAL truth about these heads? |
| | RE:You want the truth?! -- Mike McQuesten, 01/04/2002
I can't handle the truth so here is what I'll tellya.....
The 1963, 406 tri power/405 horsepower engine was factory equipped with a head casting of C3AE-C. This head was built with a standard size 390 intake valve, and a new size, 1.66, exhaust valve. This head was factory machined for valve spring support cups. The combustion chamber was a new & unique to C3AE-C casting that is approximately 62cc.
The 1963, 406, single 4-V, 385 horsepower engine retained the C2SE head from '62 that continued with the standard size 390 intake & exhaust valves.
Note: horsepower rating of the '63 3-2V 406 did not change. But actual real world performance of this engine did.
Now, what gives with a C3AE-C casting being on '63 390 4-Vs? My answer on this remains, as always so far, pure speculation. What I have seen and heard is that when you find a '63 390-4V 300 horse standard grocery getter, T-bird haulin', Galaxie cruisin' engine, you will find the C3AE-C head without the spring cups; with standard size 390 intake & exhaust valves and the same combustion chamber as the factory prepped 406 tri power head. Why? I think because the engineers wanted more compression for the '63 390. The same pistons from '61 & '62 were carried over, these are the dished ones. The '61/'62 390 had a rated compression ratio of 9.6:1(?maybe 9.8:1, going from memory) but the '63 compression ratio is rated as 10.5:1. This would seem to make sense with the much smaller combustion chamber of the C3AE-C head vs. the much larger cc chamber of the C1AE head.
So they made a whole bunch of C3AE-C heads and used 'em for '63. Again, I've never had this specifically explained or justified.
For '64, the 390-4V was still rated with a compression ratio of 10.5:1 but you'd find either C1AE or C4AE-G heads in place of the C3AE-C units. The pistons were new though - the flat top that became the staple of the 390-4V for many years.
And I should make this a normal sign off on all my posts and e-mails:
I think the C3AE-C head has excellent potential as a high performer meaning HIGH compression head. The standard C3AE-C with standard valves cc's out to 64. That's a serious compression making chamber with the right piston. |
| | RE: C3AE-6090-C heads....390 or 406? -- Travis Miller, 01/05/2002
This is basically the same discussion we had on here a few months ago. At that time I told of the original 390 I pulled out of a highly optioned but seriously rusted '63 Galaxie 500 4-door sedan. The car had a build date of early May 1963. The 390-300 horse engine had the original C3AE-6090-C heads on it. It also had dished pistons with no valve reliefs.
One more thing of note was the actual cc's of the combustion chambers. While all data from Ford shows C3AE-C heads at around 62-64 cc's, the heads I had measured 72 cc's. This was after a valve job but the valves did not wind up being sunk an excessive amount. |
| | | RE: C3AE-6090-C heads....390 or 406? -- SDP, 01/05/2002
I also had a set of unmolested "C" heads, but with the bigger 1.66 exh. vlv. and machined in spring cups. The heads had one vlv. job in their life so it looked, as they still had Fomoco script valves in them. After I had all 16 seats replaced and the heads cut .030" the chambers measured out around 65-66cc's. Thats a far cry from what Fomoco published. I think the specs that Fomoco published were NHRA oriented. Travis?? JMO, S.D.P |
| | | | Questionable Ford Specs -- Travis Miller, 01/05/2002
Two of the most bogus specs sent to NHRA by Ford was the minimum combustion chamber cc's for the C5AE-F Medium-riser head and also for the Hi-riser heads. Ford sent specs stating the cc's on both as 66.0. There is no way that is correct. The actual figures for each should be somewhere up around 85 cc's. What it actually did was cause racers to mill way too much off the heads trying to obtain as much compression as legally allowed by the minimum cc spec. That is one of the reasons that good Medium-riser and Hi-riser heads are rare today. That also makes the price outrageous.
As far as how the specs are obtained by NHRA, every year the car manufacturers are sent a form asking for engine specs. It is basically a fill in the blanks type of sheet. There are spaces for bore, stroke, head cc, head gasket thickness, deck clearance, cam lift, cam duration, cam overlap, valve sizes, rocker arm ratio, carb number and measurements, head and intake manifold casting numbers, valve spring type, valve spring open and closed pressure, and probably a few other things that I have forgotten to list. This has been going on since the early to mid '50's. Of course not every manufacturer sent data on every engine built. But there is some really interesting data on file at NHRA in the Tech Dept. I am really lucky to work for NHRA and have access to this data. |
| | | | | Just for gits & shiggles... -- kevin, 01/05/2002
All my Hi-Risers are 75-76 cc's, and the Med-Risers are pigs at 90-92 cc's like the T-Ports are. I will be welding in the chambers on one set of Med-Risers and will be shooting for around 68-70 after I angle mill them to boot. I will also be changing the valve angles, and ex ports. |
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