and all were solid lifters. I did have a neighbor who bought a new 63 (late) with cross bolt mains and it was never touched or replaced or anything. It was a ragtop with power windows, seats and a Rotunda tach as delivered. I know Bill Stoppe built some marine engines for racing, but i've never seen them in houseboats or industrial applications myself. I also got my hands on a crossbolt 406 block that was used in a stock car for many years. I grenaded to 406 race car motors that was the fault of the rod bolts. After that I bougt Ansen rod bolts and never had a problem again. I dont know of any manufacturer of these bolts anymore, other than ARP. Develco and SPS, and Mr Gasket used to but I just lost track over the years. Keep us posted on the condition of it, as these are rarer than hens teeth now. What are the date codes and numbers on the block? There were two different rods, and the rod bolts on the earlier rods (C-2's) were shorter than the C-3 ones.

Looks like I am in the same boat as you.I have a 1970 428cj and it looks like block and heads may be a 390.The manifold is correct but not fan,distributer

The date code (8J24) translates to September 24, 1968, but the 352 on the front is common to many FE engines so it doesn't really provide any ID clues.

Scott Hollenbeck
http://www.428cobrajet.org

nm

An FE. Seriuosly we need a lot more information in order to answer your question. Often the engine has to be taken apart to be sure.

But first look at the mounting pad for the oil filter adapter. There should be some numbers just above or below the pad. Provide those and we can give you a better answer.

Look behind starter motor area for color code , if engine has not been hot tanked yet,

I am not sure why you could not do it, unless they mean you would have to block the passage that goes from the choke housing to the main body that provides vacuum for it.

yeah there are a few out here in vegas in a junk yard what parts ya need

Remove the drain plugs on the side of the engine and run hot water from your water heater in at the top until it comes out clear. You may want to pour in some kind of radiator cleaner as well to help break that stuff up.

A garden hose would be great on a bare block, but an assembled engine is altogether different.

You're gonna have to bite the bullet on one fill of antifreeze, as a garden hose won't likely do much at this point, and unless you can find a substantially sized filter, it's just gonna clog and prevent coolant flow while driving.

Also, keep the heater core disconnected if you want it to flow well in the future. Keep the heater hoses there, but disconnect and plug them both to use them later for flushing.

When you fire it up, be sure to have a fresh mix of antifreeze. Breaking-in the cam and rings properly is more important than worrying about rust in your fresh coolant.

After several hundred miles of critical break-in, I'd park in the driveway and drain the coolant warm and flush with a garden hose while idling the engine using the water pump to agitate things. I'd avoid letting the temp get too high, as that just seems to let the water pump shaft and the radiator rust. Just pump water through using a standard (but sorta bogus) flush connector which usees the (still disconnected and plugged) heater hoses as the hose inlet and drain outlet for the plain water and run until particulate stops flowing out of your coolant.. Rev the engine in neutral occasionally to build water turbulents in the block.

As soon as possible (within several hours), you'll want to reconnect the heater core and install new coolant to prevent the rust which kills water pump seals and punctures radiators. If you see particulate inside the radiator cap, you may also want to remove the radiator and hose it down.

Bad advise from,
Shoe.

A long shot would be to knock out a freeze plug on each side of the block where accessable (It any are accessable now and more important accessable to be able reinstall it) and try to blow it out by sticking the power washer nozzle inside the block and letting the water flood back out the freeze plug hole bringing the gunk with it. I had success with this when I had a engine that was over heating. In my case the freeze plug was rusted out and leaking had no choice but to knock it out. while I had them out I too noticed the gunk build up in the bottom of the water jackets. I believe knowing the trouble that this could cause, could warrant removing the engine putting it back on the engine stand and knocking out all the freeze plugs and flushing out all the water jackets.

David,
In my reply to you the other day I gave you the Ford part number for the correct Holley which belongs on your 390 GT engine. I recommend you throw the Chilton manual out and get yourself a copy of the Ford shop manual for your car. That is where I got the numbers.

The Holley carbs used on 1967 and 1968 Mustangs, Cougars, Fairlanes, Montegos etc with 390 and 428 CJ engines are all model 4150 carbs. That covers a lot of ground, there are dozens of individual part numbers of carbs on these vehicles in two CFM sizes. The 390 engines got 600 CFM, 428's got 735 CFM. All were Holley model 4150.

The Autolite model 4300 was used on 1967 289 - 4V, 1968 302 - 4V and 1969 390 - 4V (there was no 390 GT engine in '69) engines among others. If your Chilton book says that one of these carbs belongs on a 67 390 GT engine it is wrong.

Royce Peterson

David,

Here are the Holley carb part numbers for your Cougar. This information is from the 1967 Cougar Shop Manual, First Printing March 1967 Page 10-103.

All Cougar 390 engines for 1967 were the GT 390 engine. This was available with or without the GT package.

Standard Trans, without Thermactor: C70F-A
Standard Trans, with Thermactor: C70F-C or C70F-A
Auto Trans, without Thermactor: C70F-B
Auto Trans, with Thermactor: C70F-D or C70F-B

I am also sending this to your Email address.

Royce Peterson

A spun camshaft bearing will break a cam due to the wobble. It happens.

Also, I've noticed that, contrary to popular belief, the "105" block is only truly heavy duty if it's part of an FT361/391 engine assembly. FE360/390 versions of it don't seem to get all the same reinforcements.

Ford apparently used the same "105" mold to make light truck and heavy truck blocks, but they swapped in the mission-specific cores when it came time to select the cylinder walls and cranksaddle bulkhead. Sometimes you'll find a light truck with some heavy duty features (such as reinforced cranksaddle), but I believe the extra thick cylinders of the FT are not common in FE blocks.

As all FE blocks are good and strong, you can build this up, just so long as you don't go overboring it without sonic info.

JMO,
Shoe.

What you have there is a bellhousing cast September 10, 1962. The -J- is for September. It's the tenth letter of the alphabet, but the letter -I- was not used for casting date codes.
It's a stick bell that was used through 1964. It accomodates the earlier style of FE starter with the long bendix drive that has the gear engage from the back side of the flywheel. This starter was used through....you guessed it! 1964.
The neat thing about this bell housing is that it can be used with later FE engines, i.e., '65 and up, with the short bendix drive that has the gear that engages from the front side of the flywheel. However, you must use the correct tooth count flywheel from '65 up to work properly with this later style "short bendix" starter. Does that make sense? I can't remember the flywheel tooth counts right now....I should make a post-it note of that and post-it to the wall!
One note, this bell housing I do not believe will fit in a uni-body car like Mustangs, Fairlanes, Merc counterparts with an FE. The bell housing for that is a C6OZ-.
Actually, I've never attempted to put an FE/stick into a uni-body with this bellhousing you have John so maybe it'd work? I have used the C6OZ bell in earlier app Galaxies with no problems of course. I mean '64 and earlier. You have to have the correct pivot point for the equalizer shaft for '65 up full size.
Whatever, that's what you have, a '62 bell.