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 Need FE rod -- Ed, 09/26/2001
Looking for 1 or more 63-65 427 C3AE-C con rods - The one that takes the 13/32 dia rod bolts - If you have one or a few you would like to sell, please contact me - Thanks, Ed Siess
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8308&Reply=8308><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Leaking 390GT?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Yeah, people are saing what else is new! LOL!<br><br>When I 1st got my '68 GTalmost a yr ago it sat in the garage for about a month it didn't leak much, then it went into have work done, motor pulled, engine bay repainted etc.  Valve cover gaskets and oil pan and gaskets replaced.  <br>Ever since then the motor has been leaking a lot.  I would drive the car, park it and w/in about 10 mins find a bunch of drops (about quarter sized) on the cardboard under the motor.  so I tightened up the oil pan and valve covers and still no luck.  I drove to Mustang's Unlimited a few wkends ago 200mi round trip for the show and had to add about 2 quarts during the round trip.  Then when driving in the driveway my dad got mad b/c every 5 feet or so you could see a drop of oil!  Now my nice new clear floors and under carriage have oil all over them.  I even noticed drips after the car was sitting from under the rear floors!!<br>I'm guessing my rear main seal might be bad (yeah dumb me didn't thinkt to replace it when the motor was out! I hear it is a bear to do now! and think I wil need to clean everything up now and try to narrow the leaks down.<br>any other ideas or am I on target?<br><br>tia, sorry for the long post,<br>Mike </blockquote> Leaking 390GT? -- Mike, 09/26/2001
Yeah, people are saing what else is new! LOL!

When I 1st got my '68 GTalmost a yr ago it sat in the garage for about a month it didn't leak much, then it went into have work done, motor pulled, engine bay repainted etc. Valve cover gaskets and oil pan and gaskets replaced.
Ever since then the motor has been leaking a lot. I would drive the car, park it and w/in about 10 mins find a bunch of drops (about quarter sized) on the cardboard under the motor. so I tightened up the oil pan and valve covers and still no luck. I drove to Mustang's Unlimited a few wkends ago 200mi round trip for the show and had to add about 2 quarts during the round trip. Then when driving in the driveway my dad got mad b/c every 5 feet or so you could see a drop of oil! Now my nice new clear floors and under carriage have oil all over them. I even noticed drips after the car was sitting from under the rear floors!!
I'm guessing my rear main seal might be bad (yeah dumb me didn't thinkt to replace it when the motor was out! I hear it is a bear to do now! and think I wil need to clean everything up now and try to narrow the leaks down.
any other ideas or am I on target?

tia, sorry for the long post,
Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8312&Reply=8308><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Leaking 390GT?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike McQuesten, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Before pulling the 390 out, do check the back of the intake manifold.  I've seen this kind of leakage with a bad rear intake seal/gasket.  There's a good article in the brand new, November issue, of Street Rodder Magazine about installing an intake on an FE.  Some prefer to eliminate the end seals and use a nice bead of good quality silicone, ala, The Right Stuff from Permatex.  Anyway, use a small mirror and light to eyeball the back of the intake while the car is idling. If it's leaking like you are explaining, you'll readily see it if it's happening there.  Just an idea before you dig to deeply. </blockquote> RE: Leaking 390GT? -- Mike McQuesten, 09/26/2001
Before pulling the 390 out, do check the back of the intake manifold. I've seen this kind of leakage with a bad rear intake seal/gasket. There's a good article in the brand new, November issue, of Street Rodder Magazine about installing an intake on an FE. Some prefer to eliminate the end seals and use a nice bead of good quality silicone, ala, The Right Stuff from Permatex. Anyway, use a small mirror and light to eyeball the back of the intake while the car is idling. If it's leaking like you are explaining, you'll readily see it if it's happening there. Just an idea before you dig to deeply.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8313&Reply=8308><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Leaking 390GT?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Mike, I didn't think of that, that would be a nice fix compared to the rear main seal since my friend and I have replace the intake on another FE I used to own.<br><br>Mike </blockquote> RE: Leaking 390GT? -- Mike, 09/26/2001
Thanks Mike, I didn't think of that, that would be a nice fix compared to the rear main seal since my friend and I have replace the intake on another FE I used to own.

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8318&Reply=8308><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Leaking 390GT?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>richard, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>also look to see if the oil puddle is towards the front or rear of the engine. if the front you may have to replace the front cover seal. </blockquote> RE: Leaking 390GT? -- richard, 09/26/2001
also look to see if the oil puddle is towards the front or rear of the engine. if the front you may have to replace the front cover seal.
 RE: Leaking 390GT? -- Mike, 09/27/2001
at first the oil was puddling under/around and behind the oil pan, after my recent long trip it was leaving drops everywhere since all the oil must have been blow all on the underside of the car!

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8320&Reply=8308><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Double check the valve covers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RC Moser, <i>09/27/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>It is awful easy to over torgue the valve covers bolts and bend the covers. Once bent they will not seal and blow oil out real bad. Follow the oil trail. If you have too big a mess, then go to the car wash and blast it off including the underside. Now you should be able to track down the leak.  </blockquote> RE: Double check the valve covers -- RC Moser, 09/27/2001
It is awful easy to over torgue the valve covers bolts and bend the covers. Once bent they will not seal and blow oil out real bad. Follow the oil trail. If you have too big a mess, then go to the car wash and blast it off including the underside. Now you should be able to track down the leak.
 RE: Double check the valve covers -- Mike, 09/27/2001
I'll have to do that. I have noticed some puddles in the top of the intake too.

thanks,
Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8340&Reply=8308><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Double check the valve covers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RC Moser, <i>09/28/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bet it the cover gaskets, oil in the intake and running down the back of the head area usally means valve cover gaskets. If the covers are bent it will blow oil out. I had the exact same problem 35 years ago. Yes I smashed the gasket instead of compressing it, bent the covers, had to lay them on a flat surface and cold form them with a hammer till they were straight again. After I got them straight I used a torque wrench torqued them to 50 inch pounds and rechecked them every now and then, Most books say 4 to 7 foot pounds, I found that 7 foot pounds it kind of high and since most foot pound torque wrenches arn't to acturate in the lower 20% range without a special calbration,  a inch pounds wrench is more acturate due to you using it in the middle of the range of the wrench.. Anyway, it fixed my leak and oil consumption problem, hopefully you'll have some luck too.  </blockquote> RE: Double check the valve covers -- RC Moser, 09/28/2001
I bet it the cover gaskets, oil in the intake and running down the back of the head area usally means valve cover gaskets. If the covers are bent it will blow oil out. I had the exact same problem 35 years ago. Yes I smashed the gasket instead of compressing it, bent the covers, had to lay them on a flat surface and cold form them with a hammer till they were straight again. After I got them straight I used a torque wrench torqued them to 50 inch pounds and rechecked them every now and then, Most books say 4 to 7 foot pounds, I found that 7 foot pounds it kind of high and since most foot pound torque wrenches arn't to acturate in the lower 20% range without a special calbration, a inch pounds wrench is more acturate due to you using it in the middle of the range of the wrench.. Anyway, it fixed my leak and oil consumption problem, hopefully you'll have some luck too.
 RE: Double check the valve covers -- richard, 09/28/2001
when you check the valve cover gaskets also check the fit between the intake and the head. if the v/c rails are not leval you will have a leak even with the new gasket.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8307&Reply=8307><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>410 Block, whats it worth.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Morgan, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a block that shows a standard bore size of 4.050 (standard 390 and 410) and the crank which is marked 1U (428 or 410).  The blocks casting shows it was cast on September 23, 1966  I was going to rebuild it, but found a 428 instead.   Can anybody take a guess as to what it might be worth.  I believe that it would have to be machine to .030 over.  Thanks for you input. </blockquote> 410 Block, whats it worth. -- Morgan, 09/26/2001
I have a block that shows a standard bore size of 4.050 (standard 390 and 410) and the crank which is marked 1U (428 or 410). The blocks casting shows it was cast on September 23, 1966 I was going to rebuild it, but found a 428 instead. Can anybody take a guess as to what it might be worth. I believe that it would have to be machine to .030 over. Thanks for you input.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8311&Reply=8307><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 410 Block, whats it worth.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Paul M, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Figure the cost of the 428 crank ($250-$400), and then the 390 block ($50-$150), if you want to sell them seperately, or as a 410 (for somewhat more than a 390) if you can find someone that specifically wants a 410 for a resto.<br><br>Depends on prices in your locale, mainly.<br> </blockquote> RE: 410 Block, whats it worth. -- Paul M, 09/26/2001
Figure the cost of the 428 crank ($250-$400), and then the 390 block ($50-$150), if you want to sell them seperately, or as a 410 (for somewhat more than a 390) if you can find someone that specifically wants a 410 for a resto.

Depends on prices in your locale, mainly.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8314&Reply=8307><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Thanks.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Morgan, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for your reply. Sounds like I should sell the crank seperately. </blockquote> RE: Thanks. -- Morgan, 09/26/2001
Thanks for your reply. Sounds like I should sell the crank seperately.
 RE: Thanks. -- Paul M, 09/28/2001
If it wasn't for my financial situation, I'ld be sending you a check with shipping directions!

I need a good 428 crank, but just started school this week, so money's gone again.

Funny how that happens ;-)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8306&Reply=8306><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE block Mirror 105 and X mark</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Earl, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bought an FE engine that has a mirror image 105 and an X mark on both sides of the block. There is no casting # but had C7AE-A heads. I know that the 105 is a truck block but is there any significance to the X markings? I have a D4TE truck block with 105 but no X.......Any input appreciated..... Earl </blockquote> FE block Mirror 105 and X mark -- Earl, 09/26/2001
I bought an FE engine that has a mirror image 105 and an X mark on both sides of the block. There is no casting # but had C7AE-A heads. I know that the 105 is a truck block but is there any significance to the X markings? I have a D4TE truck block with 105 but no X.......Any input appreciated..... Earl
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8317&Reply=8306><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Try reading this old discussion of that 'X'...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=1001&Reply=1001">http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=1001&Reply=1001</a> </blockquote> Try reading this old discussion of that 'X'... -- Mr F, 09/26/2001
http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=1001&Reply=1001
 RE: Try reading this old discussion of that 'X'... -- Earl Wood, 09/26/2001
Thanks! That helped..........I think!
Earl
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8305&Reply=8305><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Ford part number for short header?!?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Joshua Carroll, <i>09/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Anybody know what part number ford used for the FE shorty cast iron headers?  Thanks.<br><br>Josh </blockquote> Ford part number for short header?!? -- Joshua Carroll, 09/26/2001
Anybody know what part number ford used for the FE shorty cast iron headers? Thanks.

Josh
 RE: Ford part number for short header?!? -- Barry B, 09/26/2001
Don't have the part numbers handy but the casting numbers are C2AE-9430-J for the passenger side and C2AE-9431-G for the driver side.

Barry
 Re:coae-c4ae. -- Mike McQuesten, 09/26/2001
The number could be something starting with C0AE which is the first year they were introduced with the 1960 352HP to C4AE which is the last year they were used, on 390 Police Interceptor engines. I have seen and owned C0AE sets, C1AE sets, C2AE sets. I don't think I've seen C3AE/C4AE as I'm just speculating and Ford may have used the C2AE castings for '63/'64 PI. The long style HP manifolds came into the picture for '63 and one side has a C2AE casting and the other has a C3AE. That's all I know about 'em. They were used on the '63 - '64 406 and 427.
 RE: Ford part number for short header?!? -- John R. Barnes, 09/28/2001
1960-EDE9431 A or COAE 9431 A and 5751204 or COAE 9430 B for 352. 1961 390-COAE 9431 B and COAE 9430 B. 1962 390-C2AE 9431 G and C1AE 9428 E. 1962 406-C2AE 9429 A and C1AE 9428 E. 1963 390 C2AE 9431 G and C2AE 9428 H. 1963 406-C2AE 9429 A and C2AE 9428 H. 1963 406 after 11/22/62-C3AE 9431 D and C2AE 9430 B. 1964 390 same as 1963.
 Cam and Crank -- Freddie, 09/26/2001

I am rebuilding an FE block to put in a 65 F100. The cam that i took out has a purple paint mark next to the journal at the end along with EP-19 cast in it, is this an aftermarket camshaft? The Crankshaft has the casting C1AE-A and, the heads have C8AE-H cast in them. The pistons look to be flat top with double eyebrow reliefs in them.
Can I use a 390GT intake when I put it back together since it had a 2V intake, without porting anything?
One more question; since its a bigblock do i need dual valve springs if I use a cam with .513" lift or will the stock replacements work?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8287&Reply=8287><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>735 vs 780 Holley</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>marty vogler, <i>09/24/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am running a 780 holley #73 jets in primary and seconaries (i think) on my 428cj Mustang with a mild aftermarket cam. the engine has less than 3k on it.<br>The car seemed stonger with  the stock 390 GT cam and original 735 cfm carb. I am also running mechanical advance on distributer with stock points.As i have mentioned in the past, hard start when hot but has not failed to crank if  i flood the carb. </blockquote> 735 vs 780 Holley -- marty vogler, 09/24/2001
I am running a 780 holley #73 jets in primary and seconaries (i think) on my 428cj Mustang with a mild aftermarket cam. the engine has less than 3k on it.
The car seemed stonger with the stock 390 GT cam and original 735 cfm carb. I am also running mechanical advance on distributer with stock points.As i have mentioned in the past, hard start when hot but has not failed to crank if i flood the carb.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8289&Reply=8287><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 735 vs 780 Holley</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mel Clark, <i>09/24/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>What are the numbers on the carburetor air horn?  I can probably tell you what it's supposed to have for jets and power valve. Regardless of the advance curve in the distributor, I always set my timing at full advance. 36 or 38 degrees max., the initial timing is usually close enough then. Unless someone has butchered the advance curve, then it's a new ball game. </blockquote> RE: 735 vs 780 Holley -- Mel Clark, 09/24/2001
What are the numbers on the carburetor air horn? I can probably tell you what it's supposed to have for jets and power valve. Regardless of the advance curve in the distributor, I always set my timing at full advance. 36 or 38 degrees max., the initial timing is usually close enough then. Unless someone has butchered the advance curve, then it's a new ball game.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8290&Reply=8287><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 735 vs 780 Holley</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>richard, <i>09/24/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>the 735 was tuned by the factory for your engine combo, whereas the 780 is a "universal" carb with generic jetting for a wide range of applications. </blockquote> RE: 735 vs 780 Holley -- richard, 09/24/2001
the 735 was tuned by the factory for your engine combo, whereas the 780 is a "universal" carb with generic jetting for a wide range of applications.
 RE: 735 vs 780 Holley -- Travis Miller, 09/25/2001
The 735 has two noticeable differences from the 780. First is the step boosters in the primary. That is what restricts the 780 carb down to a 735. This was done because the 428 CJ is a lower RPM torque motor.

The other thing that is not as readily noticeable is the bottom of the secondary boosters. They are machined in one direction on one booster and in a different direction on the other. This was done for fuel distribution.

These items make the 735 a unique carb that was special made for the 428 CJ.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8281&Reply=8281><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Intake Identification</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>David Shelton, <i>09/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have an aluminum FE intake manifold with the number C7AE-9425-F. What is this off of? Thanks </blockquote> Intake Identification -- David Shelton, 09/23/2001
I have an aluminum FE intake manifold with the number C7AE-9425-F. What is this off of? Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8282&Reply=8281><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Intake Identification</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>It's for a 67 - 70 428 Plice Interceptor or 1968 Cougar 427 GTE.<br><br>Royce Peterson </blockquote> RE: Intake Identification -- Royce Peterson, 09/23/2001
It's for a 67 - 70 428 Plice Interceptor or 1968 Cougar 427 GTE.

Royce Peterson
 RE: Intake Identification -- David Shelton, 09/23/2001
Thank you very much for the info.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8273&Reply=8273><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>67' 410 camshaft</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Boyd, <i>09/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Just pulled the motor out of my '67 Merc and found the distributer gear busted and also the cam gear busted. took the block and heads to a machine shop. The block was bored 30 over . I bought cast pistons (cause forged were going to run about $650??) I want to get a few more HP's out of this motor but don't want to go overboard. Could anyone give any suggestions as to what cam I should cram in here. For the time being I'm going to use the stock intake and carb. Thanks for any help. </blockquote> 67' 410 camshaft -- Boyd, 09/22/2001
Just pulled the motor out of my '67 Merc and found the distributer gear busted and also the cam gear busted. took the block and heads to a machine shop. The block was bored 30 over . I bought cast pistons (cause forged were going to run about $650??) I want to get a few more HP's out of this motor but don't want to go overboard. Could anyone give any suggestions as to what cam I should cram in here. For the time being I'm going to use the stock intake and carb. Thanks for any help.
 RE: 67' 410 camshaft -- Mike McQuesten, 09/23/2001
I believe you can't go wrong with Edelbrock's Performer Cam. For your purposes, NOT the performer RPM. Also available from Crane and Comp I think is a reproduction of the excellent C6OZ-6250-B cam which was stock/standard for '66-'68 390 GT and '68-'70 428CJ and SCJ. Personally, this cam has worked very well for me in a number of applications for all around driving use. Currently my '68 F-100 2wd, 4,100 lbs., is running nearly daily with a '65 390-4V stock with the exception of the C6OZ-B cam, Crane standard hydraulic lifters and standard valve springs. This cam is so smooth, I always thought too smooth back in the sixties when a radical loaper sounded so cool at the drive-in, but it pulls so well from idle to 5,000. It's a great torque cam that will liven' up the big '67 Merc. I think the E-brock Performer will do the same with their lifters and matching springs. No need for adjustable rockers since this is not an anti pumpup lifter cam grind.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=8270&Reply=8270><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Gonna need a lot of help.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg Gilliam, <i>09/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>  O.k. I've determined that the engine I have is a '66 428 "Q" (built in november of '65) The bottom end has never been apart, but the top end has (fel-pro gaskets). <br> What I don't know is if someone changed the heads, maybe someone here can help.  The casting #'s on the heads are C6AE-J  with DIF on both, under the DIF one has an E and the other head has a D, next to the c6ae-j is the number 9 on one and a 10 on the other.<br>  Are these good heads? I was planning on using the edelbrock aluminum, but wasn't going to throw the stockers away anyway.  Could someone tell me about these?  <br>   Thanks<br>      Greg<br> </blockquote> Gonna need a lot of help. -- Greg Gilliam, 09/22/2001
O.k. I've determined that the engine I have is a '66 428 "Q" (built in november of '65) The bottom end has never been apart, but the top end has (fel-pro gaskets).
What I don't know is if someone changed the heads, maybe someone here can help. The casting #'s on the heads are C6AE-J with DIF on both, under the DIF one has an E and the other head has a D, next to the c6ae-j is the number 9 on one and a 10 on the other.
Are these good heads? I was planning on using the edelbrock aluminum, but wasn't going to throw the stockers away anyway. Could someone tell me about these?
Thanks
Greg
 RE: Gonna need a lot of help. -- John R. Barnes, 09/23/2001
Those are Police Interceptor heads and 428 4V heads. You will need to clean them up a little around the valve pocket and add the 2.09 intake and 1.66 exhaust for best performance.
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