The 429 Boss was not an FE engine (can't believe I did that) but the same basic truths can be said of the 390-428's. Geeeeez, hate when that happens! :-))

I believe that FE rockerarms interchange. If they are non-adjustable they should be okay for your engine, I believe the ratio is 1.73 to 1 and the adjustable rockers are 1.76 to 1. The very early, '58 units may be different as engine technology went through a lot of changes in the early years of the FE series.

If the bolt holes line up, maybe. The big problem would be alignment between all of the pulleys.

My opinion it should bolt in the factory made them that way, your going to have to upgrade sub systems. The 289 ''rad. may cool the 390 " but I think the hoses ar positioned wrong for the 390", so that means a big block rad, the 390" weights more unless you have alumin heads and intake,soyou prob. want stiffer front coils. The 390" C-6 trans is longer than the 289 " C-4 so that is a shorter drive shaft

Use '64 big block mounts, You will have to move the transmission crossmember back about 3 inches, reposition the front parking brake cable so it will reach, shorten the rear parking brake cables 3 inches, driveshaft is ok but you need to change the front yoke to a C6 one, make a speedo cable 3 inches longer, if you keep the column shift you need to find a '64 big block cross shaft from the frame to engine, change the throttle linkage to a '64 stick shift, use a big block radiator, and the big block power steering pump and bracket. That's all I can think of. Just nut and bolt stuff. e-mail me if you have any more questions and I'll give you my phone number.

Your email is not working. I have a big block rolling chassis which may have some of the parts you need. Email for info.

It looks like no one is giving you an answer on this one Joshua so I'm going to tell you how it worked for me....I didn't run the long style '64'64 427 exhaust manifolds but I did attempt to run the shorties ala '60-'62 header style ex. manifolds. I had to notch cut the frame on the right side(passenger) of my '68 F 100 two wheel drive. Otherwise the manifold will not clear. Then on the left side(driver) the shorty wouldn't fit at all! My '68 is an automatic. My truck has Bendix style Power steering and that was where the interference was: with the steering gear boost unit. I did see a set of shorties on another F100, a '65 like yours with a stick. The shorty left side(driver) fit fine because the truck did not have power steering. The right side(pass.) had the frame notched about one inch cut in and about six inches length wise. So if the shorties are this tight you can imagine how tight the long style will be. They might fit but I don't think so. It would be very cool if they did though so good luck. Not much help huh?

Tell us more about what you've got.

As for HP, headers and an intake manifold are the first steps, a cam and valve springs are a second. Carb and oil pan are third. Before you go bumping HP, you may want to inspect the cylinders for a "wear ridge", as rings which are accustomed to low RPM driving don't always appreciate smacking into a wear ridge as the RPMs increase and stretch things out.

Shoe.

Do not use FE dampers from 1967-earlier years unless you select the 427 racing type. These earlier dampers have an inertia ring which is 0.75" wide with a belt groove cast into it. These are not substantial enough for sustained 5000RPM speeds. They are fine for occasional squirts past 6000RPM, but nothing sustained.

Ford redesigned the FE damper at the start of 1968. This 1.10" wide damper is much more massive than the earlier damper, and it was used on all 360, 390, and 428 engines except the 428SCJ. The 428SCJ got a larger diameter 1.50" wide inertia ringed damper, much like the 427 race engine did.

Note also that all 1967-earlier FE car dampers use a different set of damper pulleys than the later ones. These earlier pulleys use a different 3-bolt circle diameter than the later crank pulleys, so they do not interchange.

If you do not intend to sustain RPMs above 6500 or so, and if you do not intend to supercharge your FE,, and if you run a nodular cast crankshaft instead of forged steel, then the 1.10" damper is a good choice. The 427 racing type damper is more effective as the RPMs climb, with the stiffer steel crankshaft, and with the large distortions which can be created with supercharging.

For competitive road course or circle track racing, an aftermarket damper should be seriously considered. Since I don't competitively race, I prefer the understated appearance of stock dampers, myself. My 427 racing damper sits on a shelf, and my 1968-later FE dampers get the workouts in my stroker 427s.

The timing cover for the 1.10" wide damper can be most any 1968-later timing cover and pointer. If you accidentally get a 428 SCJ timing cover with the oddball timing pointer, you are just plain lucky. Don't worry, it won't happen to you. If you happen to get a 1968-later industrial timing cover which still uses the early 0.75" damper, you're cheating. Cheating is good, but you either gotta keep looking for a later style timing cover and damper, or you've gotta bend the early timing pointer to match your later damper (and then you've gotta paint the degrees in the correct place on the damper -easy to do, actually).

The damper and timing cover is very common stuff. Ebay often sells the cover/pointer for $10.00-$20.00, and the same for the damper. Note the 360 damper works exactly as well as the 428CJ damper, but the later dampers (early70s-to-76) seem to have fewer degree marks (30 degrees total) scribed onto them than the earlier (68-to-early70s) dampers (40 degrees total - just guessing at this).

If you run your engine hard, you want to recheck the damper bolt torque every year or two. You also want to be sure the crank key which locks the damper to the crankshaft offers a nice snug fit, or else the damper can actually loosen the bolt in less than a year.

Shoe.

Every thing you said sounds resonable. I have run the LR rods for years with good prep and new ARP bolts and have buzzed them to 7500. Never had a problem and I use deep sump and HV HP pump and get 100 pounds oil pressure in the lights.

nm

MY $0.02
A 160* thermo will make the most power in the good old summer time { I know all the experts say the engine will be more efficent with a hotter temp.as I said my $0.02} It will help keep the engine compt cooler and cooler air in carb makes power the engine sI have always worked on ran better with a 160* stat, and a 180-195* in the winter,I' one of those guys that don' mind changing I drive a Ford vehicle not a never work on Maytag washmachine.
"I bet this starts somtin'