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 |  Header gaskets for Edelbrock heads? -- Paul Lovett, 05/14/2006
Hey all,
I'm looking for recommendations for header gaskets for the Edelbrock CJ type heads.
These have the 4 bolt/cylinder pattern. I'd be ecstatic if I could get the headers to seal with 2 bolts per port.
Edelbrock recommends Fel Pro 1442. I had those on my motor (with all 32 bolts!) and didn't notice any obvious leaks, but when I took them off there was a burn-through on one cylinder.
Any other recommendations? How about copper gaskets?
Thanks,
Paul |
|  | RE: Header gaskets for Edelbrock heads? -- Big Dave, 05/14/2006
You should be able to use some copper gaskets for any FE motor, it has all those bolt holes to match both kinds of factory manifolds: regular bolt pattern and GT bolt pattern. |
 | top loader tranny -- cheech, 05/13/2006
i have a 69 mustang with a top loader 4 speed and the shifter linckage will stick i have to go under the car to un jam it i have adjusted the linkage and made spacers to take up any slack in the bushings ,but still sticks any sugestions please |
| | RE: top loader tranny -- Billy, 05/13/2006
What shifter are you using? Any aftermarket parts? Does Trany go into gear easy? Have you tied aligning shifter?
If it is a hurst, it may be time to send in for a rebuild. |
| |  | RE: top loader tranny -- cheech, 05/13/2006
it goes into gear fairly easy except first it just seams like the linkage jams and yes i have adjusted the linkage ect,could low tranny fluid have any effect,it does say hurst on the shifter leaver |
| | | | RE: top loader tranny -- Big Dave, 05/13/2006
I had the same problem with my three speed shifter a while back, the shifter wouldn't take the tranny completely out of gear. To make the 1-2 shift, I had to put the shifter almost to reverse, when I felt resistance, I pulled it back and looped it to 2nd. The shifter might not be taking the transmission completely out of gear, and that's why it jams. I had to get a new shifter for it. |
| | | | | RE: top loader tranny -- walt, 05/26/2006
make sure you have no dirt or grease on the linkage,dust boot in place,use silicon lube(dri slide).if that dont work.its worn out.i forgot to say the shifter arms at the shifter its self,i used to be able to grab gears with the best of them hurst shifters,and make them think.and every once in a while 'i did jam the shifter |
|  | RE: top loader tranny -- walt, 05/27/2006
cheech if its a hurst,clean the shifter mechanism,and the are throw travel adjust bolts on the shifter body,make sure its going into gear all the way,rip up them dog teeth,scyncros's,and slider rings if not,f i recall correct me if i'm wrong the likage was still ford ,the shifter was hurst |
| | RE: top loader tranny -- Gerry Proctor, 05/27/2006
Check and lube the shifter mechanism as Walt suggests. If that doesn't do any good, check your clutch adjustment. If those two don't help, then your problem is likely inside the trans. It could be the shift pins, cams, or forks. |
| | | RE: top loader tranny -- walt, 05/27/2006
i forgot the clucth,as gerry mentioned and can any one explain why i kept bending the small block ford clutch rod,and actualy punched one thru the clutch arm,never had probs with the big glock |
| | | | RE: top loader tranny -- Tony P., 05/28/2006
Cheech, before you go pulling the tranny, on the hurst shifter there is a thin sheet metal inspection cover on the bottom of the shifter body, it is held in by tabs on each end. Just pry it off and check the two roll pins that center the shifter handle fork on the main shifter cross shaft. Chances are that one of the pins is bent or broken. Just drive it out with a punch and install some new ones and try that. |
| 69 mustang heater housing -- cheech, 05/13/2006
i have a 69 mustang 2 door coupe tring to find out if the heater housing is the same as anyother ford/mercury products |
| 67 with hydro boost brakes -- Davis, 05/12/2006
Anybody use a hydro booster to replace the stock vacuum booster? i've seen the hydra tech web site and wanted to know if anybody has done this swap.
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| | I have. -- Gerry Proctor, 05/15/2006
On a '72 Corvette. No hype. Powerful, easy to modulate brakes. Whether it makes sense as a good direction for you depends on what you want or expect for the outcome or what problem(s) you're trying to solve. One good thing about them is that they take up less room and engine vacuum is of no consequence to how well the brakes work. |
| 390 FE cooling set-up -- Jeff Brueck, 05/10/2006
Folks,
I have what is probably a set of silly questions, but I'll ask anyway:
1) I have a '69 Mach 1 with a 390 that I recently rebuilt with Performer RPM heads/intake/cam, Edelbrock Al water pump and a Ron Davis radiator with electric fans (hooked up by relays). On initial start-up, the engine got hot, mostly I thought because of new rings/seals/timing not set/etc.
2) After running the break-in time and adjusting the timing to ~30 degrees at full advance, engine runs much better, but still gets hot really quickly. (Went for a quick test drive the other day and within 2 miles at 45 MPH I was getting close to the top of the temp gauge and could smell anti-freeze – fans had kicked on full force).
3) When putting the engine in, the Performer RPM intake has 1 threaded hole in the water jacket before the thermostat - I elected to use that for the electric fan thermostat rather than the heater core feed, and I just blocked off the port from the water pump.
4) I ran the engine with radiator cap off the other day to see if I had any trapped air in the system; I got a few bubbles out, but no real indication of good flow either (antifreeze just did a slow rise out of the open cap, never really saw the level go up and down like I expected.
5) I pulled the thermostat out last night to see if I put it in backwards by mistake - looks like it was in correctly. I have a belt connecting my crank pulley to the waterpump and alternator, so I believe my waterpump is spinning in the right direction, unless the Edelbrock ones just spin backwards...
6) Here's my plan to fix:
a) Buy a new thermostat (just in case) - I was thinking 180 degrees, should I go lower with the Al heads/radiator?
b) Drill 2 1/8" holes in the thermostat flange to allow bypass flow just in case (seems to be a popular BKM).
c) Hook up a bypass hose for the heater core between the waterpump and the intake manifold port. Question here - where do I then mount the thermostat for the fans? I have a port in my thermostat housing, and I was thinking this would be an OK place if I had a couple of bypass holes drilled to allow constant flow - am I correct/incorrect here?
d) Start 'er up and fill the radiator as it runs to make sure I have no air bubbles in the system.
Am I missing anything? I'm pretty sure I did something bone-headed to get it performing like this in the 1st place...
Thanks for listening/reading...
Jeff
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| | FE Cooling system doesn't need reengineering. -- Gerry Proctor, 05/10/2006
I really doubt any of this will address your cooling issue anyway.
The most common fault is the backward installation of the head gaskets. They are marked FRONT to ensure that the core holes at the front of the block are closed to coolant flow. If the gasket is not installed correctly, coolant will go from the pump to the front of the heads and into the thermostat. This leads to overheating since no coolant is circulating through the block and heads. From what you describe, this sounds very much like what's going on. You wouldn't be the first to make this mistake.
Another common cause of overheating is retarded timing. You're a bit shy of ideal with only 30 degrees. You might want to kick your full advance to around 38-40 degrees. I'm assuming that you checked your total with the vacuum advance disconnected.
You can test your existing thermostat by putting it in a pan of water on the stove. Turn on the heat and drop a thermometer in the pan. You should see the stat opening at its rated temperature. You can drill the bypass holes in the stat but this won't solve any problems. It keeps coolant moving -though at a greatly reduced rate- if the stat should fail but if the stat opens, then it's moving all the coolant it's going to move.
There is only one Edelbrock pump for the FE that I know of and it's a clockwise rotation.
I assume that you've actually tested the radiator to ensure that it flows....you know, pour water from a hose in the top and see if it comes out unobstructed at the bottom? |
| | | RE: FE Cooling system doesn't need reengineering. -- Jeff Brueck, 05/11/2006
Gerry,
Thanks for the inputs. I'm aware it might be the head gaskets; I was REALLY careful when I built the motor to avoid just that. Might still be I did something bone-headed and reversed them, but I just want to try this other stuff first because to check the head gaskets I have to pull the motor up 3-4" to get the header bolts all out. I just want to check the easier stuff first.
Also, I think 30 degrees on timing is about all the motor will put up with; I tried up at 36 degrees, and with the Performer RPM cam in it, there was a lot of lug when cranking the motor over. There is no vacuum advance on the distributor; I've got an MSD Pro-Billet unit.
Thanks again for the inputs!
Jeff |
| | | | Engine driven fans usually cool better -- Royce P, 05/11/2006
Electric fans, particularly aftermarket ones, may not cool as well as the OEM system. The original clutch fan and shroud system will keep a very serious FE cool with no problem. There are some OEM electric fan installations that also work very well. I have heard the Lincoln Mark VIII unit is outstanding but it requires deleting the hood latch since it is a pusher.
Also, the vacuum advance unit helps considerably in cooling because you can run more advance at part throttle and during decelleration or idle. You can run the centrifugal only distributor on the track or when you have an engine dyno with unlimited cooling for a couple extra bragging horsepower, but the car will be more fun to drive if it is reliable and has a cooling system that works. A stock distributor with a Pertronix module works very well with the MSD 6AL or 7AL boxes.
Royce |
| | | | | Hadn't thought of the fans being the prob. -- Gerry Proctor, 05/11/2006
If it overheats at idle then you can test for adequate airflow through the radiator and capacity. Run the engine to the point that it's starting to overheat and run a hose all across the radiator cooling fins. If you can bring the temps down to normal then the problem is either in the fan or the radiator size. |
| | | | RE: FE Cooling system doesn't need reengineering. -- walt, 05/11/2006
the fan shroud helps at low speeds,also the clucth fan could be failing,also a quick check,pull the water pump,stick the old finger in the water pump passage,and feel if the head gasket is there to stop your finger.if your finger makes it past the head area,got some problems,also i have found bad radiator caps,boils waters at lower temps,and i did boil my 390 in my 4wd pick up.when i was running soft sand,and higer altitudes,canyonlands of utah,no shroud,weak cap,good thing i had 5 gallons of water,i have freinds that swear by electic fans,some have the water jacket sensor,some in radiator fin,2 schools of thougt there,both say it works,at low speeds,no more increaing engine speeds to cool it down |
| | | | | RE: FE Cooling system doesn't need reengineering. -- giacamo, 05/11/2006
Gerry proctor maybe on track about the headgaskets,maybe one gasket on backwards .most of the time wen the gaskets are on right one will look upsidedown and not look like the outher wen instaled...... |
| | | | RE: FE Cooling system doesn't need reengineering. -- ak, 05/12/2006
Hey Jeff.
One reason for your overheating problem is too retarded ignition timing. Total advance must be around 36 degrees. You said that engine wont start with that advance? In stock, your distributor mechanical advance is 21 degrees > your initial advance is then 15 degrees. That might be too much, then change advance stop bushings from your distributors. He are instructions:
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8594_frm23872.pdf |
| 390 id -- Irv, 05/10/2006
How can I ID a 390 PI motor from internal part No.'s. Have not disassembled it yet, but need to know where to look for part No.'s on rods, crank and cam. I have the oil pan off and can see the numbers/letters C6 and AE below that on the bearing caps.
Thanks |
| | RE: 390 id -- Big Dave, 05/14/2006
The PI motor was more top end than internals. Most internal parts are standard 390, but the heads and intake were factory performance parts. Look for intake, carb, and cylinder head part numbers. |
| Holman-Moody GT500? -- Kevin, 05/09/2006
Hello all -
Did Holman-Moody build 427s or 428s that were the first-installed engines in '67 GT500s?
Thanks! |
| | No they were a in house deal. But Shelby -- Lou, 05/10/2006
was one of the drivers, and must have had some say. |
| | Only one 427 Shelby Mustang was ever built -- Royce P, 05/11/2006
It had a Shelby built engine. Shelby and Holman Moody were not on the best terms, it would be very unlikely for Shelby to have used a H-M engine. Here's the only GT500 to ever receive a 427 from Shelby:
http://www.nvsaac.com/gallery/1967_shelby_gt500_18.htm
Royce |
| Drilling a 427 Marine Block -- bobduff, 05/09/2006
My hunt for a good reasonably priced 427 side-oiler block keeps turning up the un-drilled marine side-oiler castings. A machine shop here in Ontario claims to have drilled a number of these centre-oilers into side-oilers. Question: Can this procedure be done effectively? Is this a common procedure? |
| | | RE: Drilling a 427 Marine Block -- bobduff, 05/10/2006
Thanks for the link, 68S-Code, ... I was looking through the forum archives last night and came across this statement:
"The motor mount bosses on marine blocks would logically be flycut prior to boring, honing, and sonic checking the blocks, therefore 427 marine blocks would necessarily be "predefined" as marine blocks, not selected due to core shift, or whatever. Marine blocks apparently get their motor mount bosses flycut on the main FE production line - a line that destroys the side oiler passage to the extent the block can only be drilled as a center oiler."
This, if correct, would indicate that these marine castings can not be drilled out after the fact as side-oilers. I will contact Gessford for additional information.
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| | | | If anybody knows... -- 68S-Code, 05/10/2006
..it would be George Gessford. |
| | | | | RE: If anybody knows... -- walt, 05/12/2006
wasn't all 427's performance blocks side oilers 65- later?,i heard of the 427 industrial blocks that failed for performance use,used in agriculural ,water pump use,i have seen them sleeved to run hipo use,the oil galley had no bearing on the bore or mount locatins,they just drilled them as the 428/390 oiling systems,also ford power parts brought out a system to convert the top oiler to side oilers,drilling required in the lower main cap,fed off the oil filter pad,ford possibly didn't want to pay the expense to drill the galleries,and the duump valves in the blocks that were designated for industrial use,lots of machining to match that 427 hiper oiling system,opps fogot that previous mentioned top oiler,had to have cross bolts,and they supplied hollow cross bolts for oil supply |
| hi-po truck build -- neverenough, 05/09/2006
hey im new to this site but i wanted to see what you guys thought of this build
std bore 390 block, 390 crank,360 rods, and pistons(didnt think theyd work but come up to damn near the top of the cylinder), ported c8ae-h heads, headers, edelbrock performer rpm cam kit with their valvesprings, 750cfm edelbrock carb, and a weind high rise open plenum intake that was port matched. its in a 76 4x4 ford1/2 ton truck with a four speed and 3.50 gears im planning on another build for this truck and im thinking on building the 390 that came with the truck(it wasnt original)
its already .040 over and the cylinders look good just have them honed and the block cleaned with flat top pistons and ported 390gt heads with a similar cam and intake combo with a little bigger carb(maybe 850 demon) im not planning on pulling with the truck but i do mud drag it at times
it runs real good now just a little weak under 1500rpm's but realy picks up around 2500rpm,s and would any body have a ballpark figure of power i got im hoping for around325 but not sure if i got it
id appriciate the advice
thanks |
| FE and AOD is it possible -- glennz, 05/08/2006
has anyone done this??
is it possible??
who makes an adapter??
thanks
glenn z |
| | | Or try this... -- 68S-Code, 05/09/2006
http://www.lentechautomatics.com/
AOD's with FE bellhousings. Very spendy (look to spend $3k plus), but from what I've read, high quality stuff. |
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