what exaust manifolds are on the heads?

Trevor, is that intake aluminum? I've seen that number on the 406.
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You're right Marty, there's no need for dual fours. All you need to do to pep that '52 up is this:

An aluminum intake such as the Edelbrock Performer will do nicely along with their 600 C.F.M. carb. You might want to consider the Performer RPM but I'm assuming here that your '64 352-4V is backed by a cruisomatic and something like 3.00 ring & pinion.

As for a cam, keep it mild but you definitely need more than that '64 352 had stock. I don't think the '64 352-4V was rated at 300 horses. The '58-'60 standard performance 352-4V was rated @ 300 horses and that was an over rating. l'm going from a foggy memory here but I think your 352 was rated at 250 horse....maybe. But back to that camshaft. I'd again recommend something like Edelbrocks Performer cam and kit. There are lots of other cams similar to this. But it's important to run a mild cam to get that '64 Galaxie up and moving. Your Ford is approaching two tons if not a little over it. Wait a minute, you didn't even tell us if it was a full size Ford/Merc you're running this '64 352 in?

So lets see, an aluminum intake/600 carb, mild cam, and now how about some headers? Try Charles Crites at Crites Reproductions. They make a set designed just for your application. Follow those headers up with a nice 2 1/2" exhaust system.

Convert your single point distributor to a Pertronix electronic conversion along with their coil and plug wiring.

Change the gears out back to 3.50s and you're ready to go!

It's sure fun to spend other people's money.

N/m

Thanks for the details. I've wanted to know about first hand actual experience with this cam.

Please keep us posted as you've indicated.

Sounds like you're using manfold vacuum to achieve that 10 degrees of advance at idle. You can use manifold vacuum advance but it requires a slightly different tuning method. Or you can more easily just go back to ported vacuum and call it good. You first need to sort out the vacuum advance taps on the carb. Get yourself a vacuum gauge to hook up to the vacuum ports on the carb. A port that has vacuum at idle is a manifold vacuum port. A port that has no vacuum at idle but shows vacuum as soon as you start to open the throttle is a ported vacuum port.

I'll address tuning with manifold vacuum first since it appears that's where you are right now. Disconnect the vacuum line and set your base timing at around six degrees. reconnect the vacuum advance line and read your advance now. It will be much higher than the base six degrees. If you don't have a fully-degreed balancer, it may be off the marks and the only way you'll know just how much advance you have is with a dial-back timing light. It's not all that important, though, since you are only interested in base timing (remember, your base timing is timing without any advance). Distributor vacuum advance cans vary as to how much advance they contribute. Some as little as ten degrees or so and some over 20 degrees. You'll probably have to adjust the carb idle speed since your total idle timing will be close to 20 degrees now. Tuning with manifold vacuum can be helpful for engines with big cams that have trouble generating a stable idle or enough vacuum to work the power brakes. Go ahead and test drive the car to see if you're pretty close to where you want to be. Just to be clear on this; You set up your base timing without the advance connected and once you do that, reconnect the vacuum advance. Do not pay any attention to the jump in the timing mark. Do not readjust the distributor to bring it down.

Tuning with ported vacuum (where there is no vacuum in the tube at idle) is pretty easy. You set your base timing to six or whatever degrees that works for you and that's about it. The vacuum advance canister won't contribute any advance until you crack the throttle open.

There is a lot of myth and lore (Net truth) regarding ported and manifold vacuum. Many folks believe there are differences that lie beyond what occurs once the throttle is cracked open. There isn't any difference between the two once the throttle is cracked open and it's not hard to prove by anyone who has a vacuum gauge. Setting them up with the engine at idle is different, but that's about it. And in many cases, it's not a one size fits all. The savy tuner will use whichever method, manifold or ported, that suits their engine.

Equa-locks were used until 69 (I think).The part numbers for the plates are 3 B9AZ4945A for the steel and 4 B9AZ4947A for the lined plates. Equa-locks do not have the square block in the center like traction-locks which introduced in 1968. Hope this helps.

this is simple but i;m an old guy losing brain cells, after wiggling the trottle shaft back and forth instead of up and down i found my vac. loss. da! good luck .

Edelbrock will always make claims that are hard to dupicate/ the rpm cam is a large cam/ so depending on the heads the manifold, carb/ compression ratio, etc who knows what motor the y built.
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That Performer RPM cam has 108 lobe centers. A friend of mine has one in a 410 FE engine (bored .030 so its 416) and he gets around 8" vacuum. That cam is no good if you plan to drive on the street or have power brakes.

Royce

You can try advancing the timing to see if that helps. You could also advance the cam a couple or four degrees. But it's going to be hard to overcome that 108 degree LSA by crutching it. Vacuum reserve cans do work...for one or two brake applications. If you have vacuum-assisted brakes you really need to look at an electric vacuum pump made by SSBC and offered through them or Summit.

And just fyi...many of the early 60s factory performance era engines that had beefy cams didn't use vacuum advance distributors.

I had pretty much figured on problems with the power brakes so decided to stick with manual brakes early into the build. I spent a few hours playing with different springs in the vacuum advance and found one that works. Took quite a bit of time driving at different rpm's and watching the vacuum gauge to find out just what was going on. I also found that I had to install a 4.5 power valve on the holley carb to eliminate a slight bog during acceleration at lower rpm's due to the power valve fluttering because of low vaccum. I lucked out by installing a TCI reverse pattern manual valve body modification in the C-6 as there is no way the tranny would have shifted correctly. I pretty much eliminated all vacuum leaks even on the carb shafts, I did rebuild the carb and replace the teflon strips on the shafts. Great cam for a car that will not be daily driven and more of a weekend warrior ride, though im thinking that steeper gears are in the near future. Thanks man for all the help and info!

My block is a C7ME-A and its a 390 for my 67 GT,you can't believe everything you read about fe's in books but the people on this site know there stuff so they would be able to help a little more about the drill test.

i,v bored 390,s 60 over and had no over heating problems. i would not prefor 60 over but sometimes you have no choise. i try to keep the 60 over blocks for light dutey low compresion aps......

It could be a 428 block or it could be any other FE other than a 427. He's just not including the other possibilities for that casting. That's the problem with "Net Truth." My factory original block in my '67 Fairlane is a C7ME-A and I'm double-damn sure it ain't a 428. You shouldn't have an issue with the block at .060 over (unless you have a block with really bad core shift) other than you've pretty much locked yourself out of future overhauls without sonic checking the block.

I have tried the 15/64 drill bit test on the front two core plugs of my 1967 390. On one side the 15/64 drill-bit would not pass through the cylinders. A 7/32 drill-bit did, but barely. On the other side of the engine, the 15/64 drill-bit would pass only toward the upper part of the cylinders. It would not pass through the center or lower extremes.
So, what does this tell me?

Thanks in advance.

sound,s like a mean combo be careful.....