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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20282&Reply=20282><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FPA header installation in Fairlane</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>bprewit, <i>02/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>With all the posts about finding headers I figured I would let you know how my installation went. I got the FPA Tri-y headers for a 390 into a '69 fairlane and bolted them to the new engine before I installed the engine in the car. Believe it or not everything fit perfectly without having to bend, hammer, or re-route a single thing. The power steering adapter I got from them gave me the required clearance. If I had tried to install these with the engine already in the car it would have been a horrible experience but installing on the engine first it went together without any problems. Now if I can just finish bolting up the tranny im in business! </blockquote> FPA header installation in Fairlane -- bprewit, 02/18/2004
With all the posts about finding headers I figured I would let you know how my installation went. I got the FPA Tri-y headers for a 390 into a '69 fairlane and bolted them to the new engine before I installed the engine in the car. Believe it or not everything fit perfectly without having to bend, hammer, or re-route a single thing. The power steering adapter I got from them gave me the required clearance. If I had tried to install these with the engine already in the car it would have been a horrible experience but installing on the engine first it went together without any problems. Now if I can just finish bolting up the tranny im in business!
 RE: FPA header installation in Fairlane -- Travis Miller, 02/18/2004
If an engine is out of the car, it is always a good idea to test fit the new headers. While most headers will fit fine, any bolt up adjusting that needs to be done is easier on the engine stand than in the car. I once had a set of headers that each side had one hole slightly off. Luckily I found that problem while test fitting them on the engine stand. That saved me a lot of aggravation when they were finally installed in the car.
 Autolite battery -- BRIAN, 02/18/2004
Would anyone know what battery actually came in a 1966 mustang on the assembly line. I was told it was an all black autolite with raised letters and no red on it. Was the autolite with red letters just sold over the parts counter for replacement. Please help im stumped.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20275&Reply=20275><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>electrical problem, please HELP!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Carlos, <i>02/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote><br>I have a 67 fastback with a 390FE, it starts fine, however, when i turn the lights on, not the headlights, but the parking brake lights, the car won't even turn over. I turn all the lights off and the car starts. When car is on and i turn on the lights, the car shuts off. Is it a wiring problem or the alternator or WHAT??  </blockquote> electrical problem, please HELP! -- Carlos, 02/18/2004

I have a 67 fastback with a 390FE, it starts fine, however, when i turn the lights on, not the headlights, but the parking brake lights, the car won't even turn over. I turn all the lights off and the car starts. When car is on and i turn on the lights, the car shuts off. Is it a wiring problem or the alternator or WHAT??
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20278&Reply=20275><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: electrical problem, please HELP!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>crusinbuddy, <i>02/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Carlos,<br>How did the problem start? Have you done any work on the engine or electrical system to cause the problem? </blockquote> RE: electrical problem, please HELP! -- crusinbuddy, 02/18/2004
Carlos,
How did the problem start? Have you done any work on the engine or electrical system to cause the problem?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20280&Reply=20275><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: electrical problem, please HELP!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Carlos, <i>02/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote><br>I built the engine myself and had the machine work done at a local shop, but i havent added anything radical to the electrical. I used the same original wiring the car always had, which wasnt much.?? </blockquote> RE: electrical problem, please HELP! -- Carlos, 02/18/2004

I built the engine myself and had the machine work done at a local shop, but i havent added anything radical to the electrical. I used the same original wiring the car always had, which wasnt much.??
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20281&Reply=20275><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: electrical problem, please HELP!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>greg, <i>02/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Do the running lights even come on when you turn them on?  Or the headlights?  I would say you have a pinched wire somewhere in the engine compartment, or something under the dash is wired wrong.  What if anything have you done to the electrical, you say nothing radical, have you had the dash apart?  Did you do any work on the altenator harness?   </blockquote> RE: electrical problem, please HELP! -- greg, 02/18/2004
Do the running lights even come on when you turn them on? Or the headlights? I would say you have a pinched wire somewhere in the engine compartment, or something under the dash is wired wrong. What if anything have you done to the electrical, you say nothing radical, have you had the dash apart? Did you do any work on the altenator harness?
 RE: electrical problem, please HELP! -- Carlos, 02/19/2004
I had the dash apart a while ago but only to replace the blue bulb covers. The car has been running fine with no problems for about 170 miles on the fresh motor, until now??
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20283&Reply=20275><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>engine ground</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>02/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>If for some odd reason the engine ground is backfeeding thru the parking lites, when the lites are on the engine could lose its ground.A good temporary ground wire from the block to the battery will rule this out. </blockquote> engine ground -- raycfe, 02/18/2004
If for some odd reason the engine ground is backfeeding thru the parking lites, when the lites are on the engine could lose its ground.A good temporary ground wire from the block to the battery will rule this out.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20300&Reply=20275><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: engine ground</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>greg, <i>02/19/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>That's a good idea for starters, hadn't really thought of that one so make sure you have a good ground to both the engine and the body, if that doesn't do it you're going to have to start unhooking things and seeing if the car stays running when you turn the switch on.  I would check the ignition switch, if you're skilled with an ohmeter it should be pretty straightforward, you could also try unhooking the alternator and running it to see if the same thing happens, is your car equipped with a tach of any sorts. factory or otherwise? where are you located? Electical gremlins can be hard to trace, email me if you want and I'll give it my best to help  you out.   </blockquote> RE: engine ground -- greg, 02/19/2004
That's a good idea for starters, hadn't really thought of that one so make sure you have a good ground to both the engine and the body, if that doesn't do it you're going to have to start unhooking things and seeing if the car stays running when you turn the switch on. I would check the ignition switch, if you're skilled with an ohmeter it should be pretty straightforward, you could also try unhooking the alternator and running it to see if the same thing happens, is your car equipped with a tach of any sorts. factory or otherwise? where are you located? Electical gremlins can be hard to trace, email me if you want and I'll give it my best to help you out.
 RE: engine ground -- Carlos, 02/19/2004
I have a ground cable hooked up from the batttery ground to the engine block, but none from the engine to the chassy. Is this whats causing the problem?? I will try it out and see what happens.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20273&Reply=20273><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 Block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim P., <i>02/17/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I Have A  390 Block With the Normal 352 Cast in the back but it also has the letter (A) also this is also cast not welded any ideas as to its meaning cast date is Nov 2, 1970 no casting # or other unsual markings on block.  Thanks Tim. </blockquote> 390 Block -- Tim P., 02/17/2004
I Have A 390 Block With the Normal 352 Cast in the back but it also has the letter (A) also this is also cast not welded any ideas as to its meaning cast date is Nov 2, 1970 no casting # or other unsual markings on block. Thanks Tim.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20304&Reply=20273><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 Block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>02/20/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Tim, are you sure it is a 390 block?Check the bore size,I have seen 428 blocks with the A cast into the back,but the date code sounds a little late for a 428.CJ blocks had a C cast in the same spot but I don't know if that applied to all of them.I've had 3 and they all had it.I've had 4 or 5 regular 428 blocks and they all had the A.If you don't have calipers a standard 390 will be about 4 1/16 while a 428 will be about 4 1/8 bore size.Also if you look into the water jackets you may be able too see 428 cast into the bottom.  </blockquote> RE: 390 Block -- John, 02/20/2004
Tim, are you sure it is a 390 block?Check the bore size,I have seen 428 blocks with the A cast into the back,but the date code sounds a little late for a 428.CJ blocks had a C cast in the same spot but I don't know if that applied to all of them.I've had 3 and they all had it.I've had 4 or 5 regular 428 blocks and they all had the A.If you don't have calipers a standard 390 will be about 4 1/16 while a 428 will be about 4 1/8 bore size.Also if you look into the water jackets you may be able too see 428 cast into the bottom.
 RE: 390 Block -- Tim P., 02/20/2004
Hi John The Cast Date Is Very Readable and as I stated, The Pistons Measured At 4.078 the drill bit test is 15/64th between cyl's it also has the bosses for cross bolts, any other input would be helpful Thanks John, Tim.
 Tachometer -- Wayne, 02/17/2004
Hello, I have an old tach I was looking for some information on. It's about 3 1/2" it has an RAC and F/PROD on it's face. If anyone has any information about it please advise.
 Edelbrock combo ?'s -- Mike, 02/16/2004
I am finally getting my 69 Mach1 on the road after 9 years of being in pieces. I have had the engine, 428cj, completed for a few years. I am going to be pulling the heads to check for rust in the cylinders, has never been started. When it goes back to together I am thinking of using Edelbrock heads and an aluminium intake. This should take an easy 150lbs of the fron end. Regardless I will be using FPA headers. I also currently have a Comp. Cams 270H.

It will be a weekend driver that will see some track time.

Can I, should I, run the stock adjustable rockers and shafts?
What intake can I use and retain my shaker?
Are there any fitment issues with a C6 & the FPA headers?
What is the best place to get a set fully assembled?
Am I crazy for considering this?

Thanks,
Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20263&Reply=20263><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Richmond 6 speed</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dano, <i>02/16/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I see that Richmond makes a 6 speed trans using the Ford 1 1/8" 26 spline input shaft.  Has anyone ever put one of these in a Mustang?  I am interested in putting one of these into my 69 Mustang 390. </blockquote> Richmond 6 speed -- Dano, 02/16/2004
I see that Richmond makes a 6 speed trans using the Ford 1 1/8" 26 spline input shaft. Has anyone ever put one of these in a Mustang? I am interested in putting one of these into my 69 Mustang 390.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20269&Reply=20263><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Richmond 6 speed</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Lou, <i>02/17/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>A lot of money for very little or no gain. I  can't see where it would be of any use except on a road track, or for top end runs. </blockquote> RE: Richmond 6 speed -- Lou, 02/17/2004
A lot of money for very little or no gain. I can't see where it would be of any use except on a road track, or for top end runs.
 RE: Richmond 6 speed -- mad scientist, 07/02/2004

I'd opt for a t56 Viper tranny. You can gear down better because of the huge overdrive (.5 : 1).

You can try to t56 from f-body, but the ratios are a little different.

the richmond is a single overdrive, not a double. That doesn't help make the vehicle more adaptable to many situations, but does let you shift more if you want to.
 ignition upgrade -- jeff, 02/16/2004
has anyone done a conparison test between peretronix and cranes xr-1?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20255&Reply=20255><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Need some help on 390 gt exhaust</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>68 fastback, <i>02/16/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bought a complete 390 gt motor out of a 66 farlane to rebuild and put in my S code 68 fastback. I've done a search and it sounds like the drivers side exhaust manifold C6OE 9431A won't clear the stearing box on the 68 mustang. Are there 2 different LH exhaust manifolds for the 390 GT's?  I don't like headers and 14 bolt headers to boot. Does anyone know if these exhaust manifolds will fit in the 68 mustang?<br><br>Thanks in advance for your help!<br> </blockquote> Need some help on 390 gt exhaust -- 68 fastback, 02/16/2004
I bought a complete 390 gt motor out of a 66 farlane to rebuild and put in my S code 68 fastback. I've done a search and it sounds like the drivers side exhaust manifold C6OE 9431A won't clear the stearing box on the 68 mustang. Are there 2 different LH exhaust manifolds for the 390 GT's? I don't like headers and 14 bolt headers to boot. Does anyone know if these exhaust manifolds will fit in the 68 mustang?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20260&Reply=20255><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Need some help on 390 gt exhaust</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>68 fastback, <i>02/16/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>The casting # on the LH exhaust manifold is C6OE 8431A.  </blockquote> RE: Need some help on 390 gt exhaust -- 68 fastback, 02/16/2004
The casting # on the LH exhaust manifold is C6OE 8431A.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20261&Reply=20255><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Need some help on 390 gt exhaust</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>02/16/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>That has to be a 9431 to be a LH exhaust manifold.<br><br>I've heard that story too about the later manifold needed to clear the steering box.  What's confusing to me is the CJ LH exhaust manifold has the same vertical bolt pattern on #8 just like the earlier C6 Fairlane manifold and it had no problem clearing the Mustang steering box.<br><br>Maybe for sheets and grins you could try it and see what the problem is. </blockquote> RE: Need some help on 390 gt exhaust -- Barry B, 02/16/2004
That has to be a 9431 to be a LH exhaust manifold.

I've heard that story too about the later manifold needed to clear the steering box. What's confusing to me is the CJ LH exhaust manifold has the same vertical bolt pattern on #8 just like the earlier C6 Fairlane manifold and it had no problem clearing the Mustang steering box.

Maybe for sheets and grins you could try it and see what the problem is.
 RE: Need some help on 390 gt exhaust -- hawkrod, 02/23/2004
it will fit but its tighter than ford liked and may cause overheating of the steering box. the reason CJ's got away with it was because they used short bolts and the casting is thin there. the 66 GT is very thick and uses the long bolts. about 1 1/2 inch of difference plus or minus. hawkrod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20250&Reply=20250><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 heads - Edlebrock vs. stock</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>richard, <i>02/15/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Looking at the Edlebrock Performer RPM FE against the stock C8AE-H heads for a 68 S code rebuild.<br><br>Been told by the time you fix the old heads you'll spend as much as buying new, and that the new have better performance.<br><br>Other than weight reduction (and being required to change out the manifolds, which is a good thing) will the RPM FE's provide any noticable improvement over stock assuming all other things are equal? </blockquote> 390 heads - Edlebrock vs. stock -- richard, 02/15/2004
Looking at the Edlebrock Performer RPM FE against the stock C8AE-H heads for a 68 S code rebuild.

Been told by the time you fix the old heads you'll spend as much as buying new, and that the new have better performance.

Other than weight reduction (and being required to change out the manifolds, which is a good thing) will the RPM FE's provide any noticable improvement over stock assuming all other things are equal?
 RE: 390 heads - Edlebrock vs. stock -- bprewit, 02/15/2004
I dont know the accuracy of these numbers but from comparing with flow numbers from magazines, books, and other web sites they seem to be pretty close to dead on
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#ITABLE
should help give you an idea of the difference between the C8AE-H and the two edelbrock heads as well as others.
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