That's a very nice/kind offer b. Those performer plus valve springs & pushrods should be needed by someone here. They'll be great for a nice rebuild where someone uses E'brocks's Performer cam or even with a stock GT/CJ cam, C6OZ-B.

I installed a C6-B cam in my '65 390-4V during a quickie rebuild(remember the term overhaul?) years ago. I used standard hydraulic lifters and valve springs with the ball/ball rods/non-adjustables. That '65 390 provides all the power I should need in my '68 F-100 hauler. Note the "should". There's always plans for "More FE Power". The next power plant will have solid lifters.

Thanks again. Great offer.

I just found this site while deployed overseas, adn was wondering (what's the chance) if you still had these parts?

There are two stock length pushrods for the FE. The longer pushrod is to be used with the shell solid lifter. This lifter was initially used in the early '58 352/332(first 3 months of production). The shorter pushrod is to be used with the "dumbell" style solid lifter which was introduced in 1960 for the HP352. The "dumbell" is the common/standard solid lifter that Ford ran in all PI and HP FEs factory designated to be solid lifter. However, there was a "rev-kit" or something like that introduced in '64 that featured the shell lifters and a larger diameter pushrod. This "rev-kit" was designed to allow for 7,000 rpms. The early long style pushrod is skinny but it is a solid rod. They tend to bend. The new long style are hollow stem/large diameter.

Hope this makes some sense to you. Choosing the dumbell solid or shell solid is a matter of choice. You'll hear lots of opinions on the benefits/drawbacks of each.

Ian ,McQ and Royce covered the reason for the two different length pushrods,but Royce said there wasn't much difference between them and that is true if you are running a mild engine for the street but if you are building a high revving engine the shell type lifter with a hollow tube pushrod like the crane item is significantly lighter than the dumbell lifter and pushrod that is why Ford used them as part of the "7,000 RPM kit".The lighter lifter and pushrod will allow higher revs before valve float without resorting to super high pressure cam killing valvesprings.Ford used these along with hollow stem valves to extend the RPM range of the 427 engine from 6200 to 7000 for the duration of a 500 mile race,while still using the same valvesprings as before.Everyone knows that 427s will rev past 6200 with their stock valvetrain but they won't maintain it for 4 hours.If there is not too much difference in price it stands to reason that the lighter stuff will be easier on your cam and valve train over the long haul.

Two hole motor mounts vs three hole motor mounts if it is an older block.

Depends on what you intend to use them for, they should at least be inspected for straithness, twisting and damage + they should all be reasonable within each others weight so that when you balance your rebuild none of the rods require exessive trimming. A new set of rods are not terribly expensive and will probably be the easy way to go.

Are the C4AE-G heads good performance, factory style heads? Does anyone know what the combustion chamber volume of the C4AE-G is?
Thanks

Im intrested are they ok have you looked at them yourself ? Tim P.

the only 8.8 solid axle tbirds with disc brakes were 4 lug 87/8. in 89 they went to independent rear suspension but also changed the bolt pattern to a metric one. odds are you have a lincoln 8.8 from 83-92 +/- as they have disc brakes that are very easy to use on other cars. i used a set on my 62 tbird but had to make caliper mounting brackets because i have large wheel bearings. i know ultrastang was selling kits for these really cheap but i think he is revising his brackets a little so they are not available right now. hawkrod

There really is no such thing and you can't or shouldn't mess with the jet orifice by drilling it out. The jet size is a flow rating, not a drill size. The orifice is tapered and if you drill the jet, you'll upset the fuel free flow and theoretically make if flow less with a larger hole.

Holley recommeds that jetting changes be in two size jumps to effect any mixture changes. Each jump represents around a four percent fuel flow change but the jets are not that precise and the number stamped on the jet is only means that the jet flows withing a range. So if the jet that's in there now is on the high side for that flow rating (say a 73) and the jet you want to put in there is just one size larger (say a 74), it could be on the low side which substantially means you didn't change anything.

Jets are cheap. Cheap enough that for a modest investment you could have a jet board full of jets for a wide tuning range.

Q code was an option on a few T-Birds. 95% were 390-4V.

Royce

In my opinion Edelbrock carburetors are excellent. I have run a lot of Holleys over the years with reasonable success but I've also had problems with neeedle/seats, floats, power valves, just about everything that can go wrong on a Holley I've had at least once. I've run three different E'brocks with absolutely no problems. The instruction booklet that comes with their carbs when purchased new are very helpful. Anyone with reasonable basic tech skills(like can you assemble your gas barbeque grill?)can tune them. And E'brock's technical service via phone is excellent.

I think a 750 Edelbrock will work very well on your 400 horse 390. You might also have to buy their "Strip-Kit" which is a tuning kit with a variety of step-up springs. metering rods & jets. But it's well worth it when tuning the carb to your specific engine/trans.

I'm currently researching a complete rebuild for a 68 S code GT coupe and am not real familar with engine rebuilding.

I have a bare block to start with and right now I'm looking at an Edelbrock Performer manifold, original heads, FPA headers, not sure about carb - thinking 700 cfm Edlbrock, but am getting lost wading through cams, pistons, etc.

Any info appreciated.

I believe holley recommends vac. secs. on street driven cars. I have run a 750 holley on 2 well built 390's with good results, but I've also bought my share of holley tech books. I also have had to change jets in both, but then again I live at 6k feet.
Charlie

I had a little trouble running my 750 edelbrock when i switched from the vaccum advance to the mechanical advance pro billet distributor. I bought the tuning kit and uped the metering rods and every thing worked fine after words

Russ I saw Several For Sale On EBay Motors under Engine and componets section with the pulley attach as factory plus several other types check it out. Tim.

I had the damper rebuilt for my 69 Mach 1 by the Damper Doctor, out in Redding, CA. John can be reached at (530) 246-2984 or Fax 530-246-2987. He also can be emailed at damperdoc@aol.com.

He's a great guy, give him a call.

The FE used a superskinny "lightweight" damper from 1958 until about 1962.

The damper you have was available from about 1963(?) until the end of the 1967 model year. These all had the 0.75" wide inertia ring with integral pulley. The pulley is small enough to be covered completely by larger stamped steel pulleys bolted to the damper, in options-laden low-RPM luxury cruisers. Early versions of this damper had timing numbers on them, later years had a notch, with the numbers found on the timing pointer. When the oversized pulleys were used, the timing notch was found on the keyed-orientation pulleys.

In 1968-76, the damper became the 1.50" wide design found on all FEs except the 427 and SCJ. This inertia ring has no integral groove, and it's more massive than the wimpy damper you have on your car. If you switch to the later damper, you'll need to switch to a later type of pulley, since the bolt-pattern for mounting the pulley was changed. Fortunately, the pulley offset is the same between all FE damper designs, so pulley positions are identical. Single, double, and triple pulleys in many diameters are readily available in outstate scrapyards and on ebay for your style and the latter style damper, though you may need to keep your peepers peeled for a few weeks or months before the one that looks about right for your application pops up.

Since you are not looking for any pulleys and don't seek a latter style damper, and wish to replace the stock damper, you can simply buy just about any one you find on ebay ($10.00 typical), or buy one from an FE-specific vendor (typically screened for condition, such as intact inertia ring) for a few extra dollars, or rebuilt for a bit more.

If you're not familiar with ebay, be aware there are lots of false sales pitches and scams. With ebay experience you can learn how to avoid the dangerous sellers most times.

Shoe.

http://www.dscmotorsport.com/
That guy has new stock type damp for I think around $60. I used one on a '64 390 and it fit just right though I did have to find a later model pulley for the engine.