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 |  Questions on a crankshaft -- Jeff, 01/18/2004
Need advice. I am considering buying a 390 crank for my 427. It is ground and polished at 30-10. Is this too much for the 450-500 hp. I intend to have? Need to know asap. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff |
 | Valve springs -- MIKE LARISH, 01/17/2004
Pulled the heads from a 63 Bird and the valve springs had a second "coil" inside them. Is there anything special about these springs? Thanks for the help. Mike |
|  | RE: Valve springs -- Barry B, 01/18/2004
Nothing special, just a damper spring. |
| stolen mustang -- Tim P., 01/17/2004
any one have specific info on a stolen car, ie someone applying for a title on a vehicle thats stolen for purposes of location of a stolen car? Thank You Tim. |
| | Can you clear up your question. -- Lou, 01/18/2004
Stolen cars can not be titiled, if you try NCIC will point out it is stolen. |
| Fairlane replacing 'Stang -- Joe K., 01/15/2004
Thanks for your input guys, I talked with the 'rents and they're gonna front me the $1200 (turns out the guy wants $200 more than I originally thought) until I can part out the '70 SportsRoof. I really wanted to fix my car, but the level of work that would be required is just too far beyond my level of expertise. Plus, I don't have the money.
I am excited about the '66 390 Fairlane 500 2-door hardtop. What exactly am I getting into? I've never owned a big block before (my 'Stang had a 302). It needs to be rebuilt, so other than upgrading to a 4bbl carb and intake, and headers, what would you guys recommend for a low-budget rebuild (i.e.-neighborhood of $2000).
What kind of power can I expect from an internally stock rebuild, with intake, 4bbl carb, and headers? Would that combo, without getting too radical, have street cred?
I'm thinking about how it will look...shiny Raven Black paint, polished, minimal chrome trim...throaty FE power...ahh...better get that ratchet out and get those parts off the 'Stang and on eBay.
All comments deeply appreciated by this 18 y/o FE novice.
--Joe K. |
|  | RE:$2K budget -- McQ, 01/16/2004
Okay Joe, here's how I'd spend your $2000:
1) Edelbrock RPM intake & 750 CFM E-brock carb = $500
2) Hydraulic cam with 215-225 Intake/Exhaust duration @ .050. The entire kit from one manufacturer = $300
3) Adjustable Rockers, readily available at around $200 for the entire set.
4) A basic 390 rebuild with new cast pistons, bearings, high volume pump and a Milodon 7 qt. pan & matching pick-up, windage tray= $1,000.
That's it! We've maxed your budget. Okay sell some more parts off the '70 stang and add:
FPA headers = $300
MSD vacuum advance street distributor with their 6A module. = $350
I'm assuming your '66 'lane has the original automatic C-6? Probably will have to rebuild it adding a good shift kit and even a stronger servo. An R code servo is available from Ford through their high performance parts program. Sorry to break this to you but this will set you back $1,000 to back that nice 390 with a solid shifting tranny.
Last but very important to adding some street cred is the rear gears. Very likely your Fairlane is factory equipped with 3.00:1. Not real good gearing for a warmed up 390. The all around best ratio is what Ford found to work well with the CJ is 3.50. If you have 3.25, they're okay. I did well with a basically stock '66 390 GTA and 3.25's. But a 3.50 gear set is the all around best in my opinion and I've tried all the regulars(3.25 to 4.56) on the street & strip. The tab for the gear change will probably be around $500.
So I think I've just bumped your estimated budget up to well over $3,000. Hope that doesn't discourage you. Your idea of black paint with minimal chrome sounds great. I would suggest as I did before that you install a Crite's Reproduction fiberglass 427 style hood. I have always liked the looks of that hood on a '66-'67 Fairlane. And Crite's products are top notch in fit/finish.
Good luck Joe. |
| | | RE:$2K budget -- BarryMcLarty, 01/16/2004
I also had a66 390 GT with a C6,and the most important single change I made was headers and free flowing mufflers.Stock Fairlane exhaust manifolds are poor to say the least.Free up the exhaust,+go to 3:50 gears like McQ.suggested,with the RPM intake and 750 Holley,and you won"t believe it"s the same car. |
| 1964 galaxie -- galaxiefreak64, 01/15/2004
do u know where to get a trunk latch lock for the 1964 galaxie? if so please let me know. i only need the lock |
| | What do you mean by the lock ? -- Lou, 01/15/2004
n/m |
| | You just need a lock-cylinder - not the latch, itself? [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/15/2004
n/m |
| | | RE: You just need a lock-cylinder - not the latch, itself? [n/m] -- galaxiefreak64, 01/16/2004
yes just the lock cylinder |
| | | | This was the same for many years on all FoCoMo -- Lou, 01/18/2004
any Thunderbird parts supply house (55/57 or 58/64) should have the assy new. |
| | | | | RE: This was the same for many years on all FoCoMo -- galaxiefreak64, 01/18/2004
do u know some part stores or websites that would have them? |
| | | |  | RE: Start with these guys; buy Genuine Ford, if possible.... -- galaxiefreak64, 01/19/2004
yes i have already tried them, they dont have it.
thanks |
| piston weights -- david, 01/14/2004
I opened up my 66gta and to my surprise I found a 3U crankshaft and pistons that have about .112 deck clearance. I calculated compression ratio to be around 8.2, a bit low. Rods were c7ae-b. Heads are c6ae-r. Does anyone know what the piston weights were when the 3U crank was used? I figure if I can find higher compression pistons of stock weight, I won't have to rebalance. My other option is to use a 2u crank and c6ae-c rods that I have sitting around. I presume that pistons used with the 2u crank were a different weight. Does anyone know what piston weights are correct with the 2u crank? Thanks for the help!
|
| | Be careful. -- Dave Shoe, 01/14/2004
I don't have the weight info handy, but I have noticed that the pistons, being diecast, only offer slight opportunity for shaving metal weght from, and variably-weighted pins offered the coarse weight adjustment prior to shaving the pistons to achieve the specified weight.
Be sure you include the weight of the piston pin when weighing the piston.
This is not true for forged or impact extruded pistons, as they typically have lots of material which can be removed to reduce weight.
Sorry for the incomplete response. I wish my piston weight info was readily available.
Shoe. |
| | RE: piston weights -- giacamo, 01/16/2004
the 2u and 3u cranks are basic twins. flat tops cast pistones with the valve reliefs are the way to go for streat use.thay will give you aprox, 10 ,,to 10.5 compresson.....piston and rods weights need to be uniform. for balance.but the crank and flyweal and damper are the inporent parts that should have perfect zero balance.......i have ran the u 390 cranks with all types of pistones just make shure the weights are uniform.. |
| | RE: piston weights -- V May, 01/17/2004
I have 30 over pistons for my 352 out of a 59 squarebird.The piston is 25 grams heaver than the stock ones.My question is ,can I get by with a 25 gram ubderbalance situation for a street motor? |
| | | RE: piston weights -- V May, 01/17/2004
I meant underbalance.The piston is heavier than previous bobweight was calculated for. |
| | | | Nope. Too much difference. -- Dave Shoe, 01/18/2004
A few grams is fine, but not 25. Your engine will run fine for a long time, but it'll shake a bit too much.
Typically, oversized pistons are specified to be weight-matched to the standard sized piston. Your 352 pistons may be for an earilier year which may have used a heavier piston.
You might look at replacing the pin with a lighter one, or maybe stealing heavier pins from the standard bore pistons.
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE: Nope. Too much difference. -- V May, 01/18/2004
Thanks for the feedback,I thought swapping pins might help,but they were the same weight.We used to overbalance that much sometimes,but I didn't ever underbalance.It will probably cost more to rebalance the crank than a lite set of wristpins would cost. I'm not sure what to do,but I will do some research on different pins. I see your responses to a lot of questions,and you seem very well informed. |
| | | | | | RE: Nope. Too much difference. -- BILL, 05/22/2006
Do i need to do any thing to the rods to change to floating rist pins
|
| | | | | | | RE: Nope. Too much difference. -- BILL, 05/22/2006
> Do i need to do any thing to the rods to change to floating rist pins
>
|
| | | | | RE: Nope. Too much difference. -- david, 01/20/2004
According to www.federal-mogul.com, the weight of Speed-Pro 390 pistons L2291F varies from 655 grams standard to 691 grams for .060 oversize. This doesn't sound like they are weight matched to the standard pistons. |
| | | | | | RE: Nope. Too much difference. -- giacamo, 01/24/2004
david i have found more pistone weights for the 390,s than you can shake a stick at thay seam to work with any piston as long as thay are uniform in thear weights i,v sean forged pistones 100 grams heavyer than cast and seam to work just fine.i talked to my crank grinder about this and he clames that the pistone company,s light or heavy pistones are desined so thay mimic the original pistones. and the bigie on balance is the rotating assembly witch is eazy to do on a 390,most are good to perfect from the getgo..... |
| 351W rear main seal -- Doug H, 01/14/2004
After pulling the pan to have a look-see and check bearings in a slightly used engine I bought to go in my Fairlane, I noticed the rear main is leaking.
According to Mustang & Fords Mag. Coast High
Performance uses the later one piece rear main seals in all their stroker 351Ws.
My question is will the one piece seal fit in my
block[ D4 casting ] or are the later blocks
machined differently for them?
Thanks in advance |
| | A 351W is not a FE... -- Ted, 01/14/2004
nm |
| | | Hey, that's no way to answer the question. -- Dave Shoe, 01/14/2004
Ya know, I had the answer two weeks ago, but can't recollect what it was.
The FE stuff sticks in my narrow channeled mind far better than other engine families.
Now, I'm wondering where I saw the info.
Oh, well. Maybe next time I page thru my Jegs catalog (or something), I'll shout out the answer and piss somebody off who's sitting nearby (like my boss).
Try the main fomoco forum to find folk who are not as focus-brained as I, reference:
http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/default.asp?Date=7/8/2003&H=1&M=47&S=55
Shoe. |
| | | | Thanks Dave -- Doug H, 01/15/2004
Thanks Dave, I'm new here and guess I posted on the wrong forum, oops.
Doug |
| | | | | Welcome aboard Doug were all human! n/m -- pop428, 01/15/2004
n/m |
| Specs and tips for valve cover bolts/washers -- ponyboy, 01/14/2004
Just got my chromed valve covers back from the platers, since the car is in storage till spring, I cant get to it to spec the proper size bolts, So I'm looking for size, length, thread, pitch, info on type of washer, and gaskets, and anybody's 2 cents on do's and don'ts, of getting the painted valve covers off, and the shinny ones on.
Thank you.
1967 GT 390
Thanks |
| FE Intake -- Steve Walls, 01/13/2004
What can you tell me about a C7AF 9425F intake? I know it fits an FE, but is there any NASCAR history? |
| | It started out life in the 427 Cobra of late 1964. -- Dave Shoe, 01/14/2004
The 428PI intake is a later version of the 427MR intake. The MR would not fit the 1958-1966 rockershaft driprails, nor would it fit the C6AE-R heads that FEs often got in 1966-67 (including some 428PIs).
The 427MR was recast to cover the non-MR ports, and additional machining was done near the pushrod holes to clear the driprails. Also, the throttle bracket bosses became more prominent, in order to adapt the stock Galaxie throttle linkage.
I believe that 4-V 427s of the 1967 era may have come with the PI intake, but that's just a guess.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| Please help me decide--What would you do? -- Joe K., 01/13/2004
Hey gents,
I was in a wreck a week ago in my 1970 Mustang--the 'stang's hurt pretty badly, at least $5000 worth of damage. The state trooper charged the accident as my fault, but my insurance company is contesting it because of the other guy's excessive speed. Either way, I was T-boned, and I can't decide what to do with the car.
I'm 18 so i don't have lots of money, but I can either hold on to my Mustang and get my parents to drive me around (it's not so bad) until I can afford to get it fixed, or I can part it out (I figure there's at least $5000 to $6000 worth of parts in it).
I would just wait, but there is a 1966 Fairlane 500 2-door hardtop with a 390-2bbl right down the road...for $1000. The body is straight as an arrow, no rust bubbles, just some surface rust where the original paint has worn thin, near-perfect interior. A one-owner car.
I figure I could part my Mustang out and buy the Fairlane and fix it up nicely with what's left over...what would you do? Is the Fairlane too good a deal to pass up? Is this a good time for me to upgrade to big block FE power?
Thanks,
Joe K.
(a pic of the wreck)
http://www.myweb.cableone.net/tlford/1st70.jpg |
| | Ouch! -- Barry B, 01/13/2004
Sorry about your accident.
My experience is if your insurance co. is gonna contest it will take forever for everyone to settle out and by that time the Fairlane will be long gone so beg, borrow or steal and get it now while you can. |
| | RE:Random thoughts... -- McQ, 01/13/2004
Sorry Joe for the damage done to what looks like was a nicely done '70 'stang, Boss 302 style stripes, slats, Magnums, and I'm sure a lot more. You don't mention which engine/p-train you have in the Mustang but I'm assuming that it's not an FE or a Boss. Maybe a built 302 but whatever to give you my biased opinion regarding that '66 'lane 390:
Buy it now!!
Any unibody FoMoCo product factory equipped with an FE is worth at least a grand. There is so much you could do to have fun with that car, i.e., Crites fiberglass 427 hood, bumpers, built FE, headers, I could go on and on spending your money.
You did post your question to an FE forum where you'll find mostly FEnatics. |
| | RE: Please help me decide--What would you do? -- John Saxon, 01/14/2004
Joe based on your desciption of the fairlane to put it in your own words it is too good a deal to pass up,without a doubt! |
| | RE: Please help me decide--What would you do? -- Doug H, 01/14/2004
Sorry about your Mustang, looks like it was a
sweet car. I agree with the other guys, you
should run down and buy that Fairlane, it's a
bargain! Drive it for a while, if you like it fix
her up, if not sell her and make some cash. |
| | | RE: Please help me decide--What would you do? -- Martin Micheelsen, 01/14/2004
I too think that a FE powered Fairlane is cool, but since they don't make either type of car anymore I suggest you connect with your "inner car guy" and get yourself some welding equipment, hammers for body work etc. and straighten out the Mustang. Young people tend to have more accidents. Mine were never my mistake either ! Regardless - if you care about old fords, then learning how to do body work will be a valuable skill for you and less classics will become memories only. |
| | RE: Please help me decide--What would you do? -- Tom, 03/02/2004
OMG!! Viagral deviant thoughts of converting it to a T-Bolt replica (Evil Grin) He He HE HE |
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