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 |  2 x 4 bbl intake -- Jeff, 12/27/2003
I just picked up an aluminum 2 x 4bbl intake, complete with carbs, linkage, fuel log and oval 427 air cleaner. Needs to be cleaned up, but otherwise is in excellent condition. Who can tell me the application of this part number: C3AE-9425-K Or can you point me to a website that can help me? Thanks for any help.
Jeff
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|  | RE: 2 x 4 bbl intake -- Jeff, 12/27/2003
Well, I did some searching and found what I needed. However, my next question is, can I have it glass beaded to clean it up, or does that hurt the value? What can you do to make it look new without hurting the value? Once again, thanks for any help. |
| |  | Low Riser intake cleaning -- Royce P, 12/27/2003
Try using a plastic wool product like Scotchbrite along with a degreaser such as Simple Green. Mineral spirits or stoddard solvent are other good choices.
Royce |
| | 1963 - 64 427 Low Riser Intake N/M -- Royce P, 12/27/2003
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| Valve Problem -- Al C, 12/25/2003
Hi Guys, got a problem. First what I have- '63 390 with about 50-60,000 on the rebuild.I got the truck when my Dad passed away in '92. Driving it home it had a miss, did a comp test and determined it had a burnt valve, so had the heads done. New ex valves and hardened seats, was told intakes ok, new springs, cam and lifters ( mild Isky hyd 202/208 .492/.488 ), new p/rods and adj rockers and shafts. Now for the problem- I've had a mild ticking problem for awhile, but since this is a weekend driver at most, just kind of ignored it. Postings on this and other boards made me think it was typical of these motors to tick some. Anyways I found the one that was ticking, idled it way down, and started backing off on the adj nut to see if it would get louder. Something didn't look right so I shut it off. The top of the valve was wore allmost down to the keeper, with a dished look to it. I also noticed some p/rods spun like crazy, and some barely turned at all ( while idleing). Also with all this oil mod talk on the FE forums, I got to looking at the rocker shafts to see if I had an excess of oil, and noticed the stand that has the oil passage (3rd one back) had oil coming around those rockers but very little towards the front of the shaft. Reguarding the spinning/slow spinning p/rods, does this indicate a cam/lifter problem also? Any advice you Guys can offer as why this might of happened/ what to look out for when it goes back together agin would be GREATLY appreciated. Many Thanks,Al |
|  | RE: Valve Problem -- giacamo, 12/28/2003
are your rocker shafts cloged?do you have the necked down bolt in the oiling pedastelfor the rocker stands? |
| | | RE: Valve Problem -- Al C, 12/28/2003
Hi giacamo, I haven't tore into it yet to be able to tell you about the necked down bolt. But just in case, I picked some up yesterday off of an FE I was looking at with block casting # C7ME-A, with C8AE-H heads. The rocker shafts and adj rockers were cleaned REAL good before installation, so I don't feel they would be clogged since being installed. I'm good about keeping the oil changed in 'ol betsy. Thanks for responding, Al |
| | | | RE: Valve Problem -- giacamo, 12/28/2003
al if you have adj rockers try to use the extra long adjusters with the jam nuts thay stay in adjustment and dont come lose |
| | | | | RE: Valve Problem -- Al C, 12/28/2003
Where would I find these? The rocker setup I have I got from PSE on the east coast. I think there just rebuilt late '50's stuff, as the shafts only have oiling holes on the bottom, rockers are bushed, and theres B9 casting #'s on the stands. I believe the adj bolts are the oversize ones since they don't turn very easy. Thanks,Al |
| | | | |  | RE: Valve Problem -- Tim, 12/31/2003
Have you solved your lifter prob yet mine is still waiting before tearing into I run synthic oil and less than 4000mi on rebuild my valve train is stock and all new parts. |
| | | | | | RE: Valve Problem -- giacamo, 12/31/2003
al the last set of long adjesters with jam nuts i bought wer from crane cams i don,t see them cataloged anymore but it,s worth a call.paw usted to have them to.and some of the older ford 6 cilinders used them from the start. just keep searching you,l find a set that will work. |
| Low budget 390 build -- MIKE LARISH, 12/24/2003
I would like to build a 390 with my sons. I realize that there is some work best left to the local machine shop. I plan on leaving the lower end stock and putting in a lumpy cam. Can we port the heads or is best left to the pro's. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks mike. |
| | What vehicle did the engine come from? -- Dave Shoe, 12/24/2003
What year is the engine. Also, what vehicle is it goin into?
Pickup truck 390s were 8.5:1 compression and used 410 Mercury pistons to achieve the low compression. These engines were available from 1968-76.
Car FEs had either 9.5:1 or 10.5:1, though this varied a little, depending on the head casting.
Knowing the compression will help determine a proper buildup formulation.
As for some basics: Installing an Edelbrock RPM intake (low cost, new, and very effective) and some Tri-Y headers (fairly easy install and great gound clearance) will open up any FE to make some seriously fun power.
There are no dud FE head castings when it comes to making power. Depending on your performance needs, the heads you have may be just what you're looking for.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: What vehicle did the engine come from? -- MIKE LARISH, 12/24/2003
Thanks for the response. We restored a 68 Galaxie 2dr ht but we installed a fresh long block. The kids want to try their hand at a motor. I found a 67 Merc 2V 390 car. We want to try our hand at porting and polishing if possible. I'm also hoping to get suggestions from people like yourself that can give me any alternative way of doing this. I have a DQ 427 LR manifold that I'm hoping to put on top when we are done. more for looks than the performance. I obviously am looking to do as much in my garage as possible. Happy Holidays! Thanks Mike |
| | | | RE: What vehicle did the engine come from? -- giacamo, 12/25/2003
mike if the moter needs bored use 390 4v pistones 10.5 compresion cast i use federal mogel good pistones at a fair price.i try to stay with the pre 1965 heads the larger intake portes will mach your 427 intake better and with a littel bit of work proublie mach perfect.comp cams 260# 265# 268 #with springs seam to wake 390,s and on the heads i allways instal new seats for exaust valves i see alot of eroded seats in theas engines....and hardend seats i feal is a good investment..... |
| | | | | RE: What vehicle did the engine come from? -- MIKE LARISH, 12/25/2003
Thanks for the response. At that same yard there is a 63 t-bird 390 4v car. Is it worthwhile to get those heads? I am hoping to be able to use the DQ. I realize that the manifold is too much for the engine but it will sure look good on top. Also-do you feel I should look at geting the carbs rejetted so they can work? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Mike
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| | | | | | RE:C3AE-C heads? -- McQ, 12/26/2003
That '63 'bird engine may have the 1963 only 390-4V heads - the C3AE-6090-C. These heads seem to have been used only in '63 for the 390-4V. They have a smaller CC chamber than the C1AE and the C4AE, C6AE, etc.
The C3AE-C head was also the head used on the tri-power 406 for early '63. However when bolted on the 406 at the factory, they were machined with valve spring cups and larger valves.
The C3AE-C head provided a compression ratio bump to the '63 390-4V over the '61-'62. This with the same dished pistons that were used in the 390 for '61-'63.
I'm telling you all of this because I think it would be worth your time & money to pull those heads from that old 'bird if they're still there. They would make great heads to run with a set of standard 390-2V pistons. I would recommend installing 2.09/1.66 CJ/lo-riser valves along with the minimum pocket porting work that should go with these larger vavles. The taller intake ports should match up nicely with the 427 intake you want to run.
I'm not exactly sure which lo-riser 427 intake you mean but if it is a 427 intake I would not run it with the C7AE heads you may have on the '67 Merc 390-2V. Look at the intake ports on the Merc 390 heads.....cute little shorties aren't they? Look at the intake runner ports on the 427 intake.....not a good match. |
| | | | | | | RE:C3AE-C heads? -- MIKE LARISH, 12/27/2003
Those heads have a date code? of 2L6 and 2L7. I will let you know what part number they are. The valves that you were talking about- are they still available from Ford or are they an aftermarket from Jegs or Summit. Thanks for your help. Mike |
| | | | | | | | RE:C3AE-C heads? -- John Saxon, 12/27/2003
Mike the CJ size valves are available from several different suppliers Jegs and summit among them.Don't sell the 390 short with enough cam and compression the dual quad will work great if you go with reasonably sized carbs.What carbs do you have? |
| | | | | | | | | RE:C3AE-C heads? -- MIKE LARISH, 12/27/2003
It has Holley 1850's on top. The manifold is part # c3ae-9425-j. Thanks for the response. Mike |
| | | | | | | | Re:2l6 & 2l7 -- McQ, 12/29/2003
Just to let you know that those 'bird heads are very likely casting # C3AE-C. One was cast November(L) 6, 1962(2); the other November 7, '62. That's a matching set.
As John told you, the 2.09/1.66 valves are commonly available. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Re:2l6 & 2l7 -- MIKE LARISH, 12/30/2003
Thanks for your help. I went to the yard today to pull them. The exhaust manifolds are still hooked up and I wasn't going to spend all day in the snow. I live in Minnesota. I pulled a pair of C4AE-G to play around with to try porting and polishing with the kids. I will keep you posted. Thanks for the help. Mike |
| | | | | | | | | | Re: c4ae-g -- McQ, 12/30/2003
The C4AE-G is an excellent head to "work". They're very similar to the C6AE-R and the vaunted CJ C8OE-N. They don't have the casting provision for unibody exhaust manifolds but that may not matter to you anyway.
The only advantage the C3AE-C offers is the tighter combustion chamber which allows you to run a lower compression style piston and yet still have something reasonable for commonly available fuel, i.e., 10:1/10.5:1.
Have fun with your boys portin' & polishin'. |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: Re: c4ae-g -- MIKE LARISH, 01/16/2004
Pulled those heads from that T-Bird. They were c1ae-a. They cleaned up well. Are they worth the time? Thanks Mike |
| | | | | | | | | | | | RE: c1ae heads -- McQ, 01/18/2004
The C1AE is a very common head used from '61 and well into '64 on 352-390, 2V & 4V. They're very similar to the C4AE-G.
In my opinion they're not worth a lot of time/dollar investment. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: c1ae heads -- MIKE LARISH, 01/19/2004
Thanks for your help. Mike |
| | RE: Low budget 390 build -- Tim, 12/31/2003
Thoes Casting # Say Its A 406 Late 63 6V Has Spring seat cups |
| | | RE: Low budget 390 build -- Travis Miller, 01/02/2004
Yes they came on a few late 406's but they were plentiful on the '63 390/300 engine. The C3AE-C are good heads but not as small of cc's in the combustion chamber as advertised. Usually up around 72-74 cc's. They must be milled a lot to get down to advertised specs. |
| | | | RE: Low budget 390 build -- John Saxon, 01/02/2004
Travis,I agree that they are not as small as advertised,but the two sets that we have CC'd came out at 63&65 cc's which still make them smaller than most FE heads and these were 63 300 horse heads too not 406.One set were McQ's and one set mine.We were curious if they were as small as the 406 6V's were advertised.We speculated that Ford probably advertised them that small to give the engine builders a little cheatin room. |
| Number of Oil Gallery plugs in a 390 -- Tom B., 12/24/2003
I am rebulding a 1966 390 and using the "How To Rebuild BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES" manual as a guide. In the manual it states that the standard hydraulic lifter block has 11 oil gallery plugs, but I can only locate 10. I found 4 plugs in the rear of the block, 4 more in the lifter valley and 2 in the front. In the front, one is recessed in the distributor tunnel. Can anyone tell me where the 11th plug is found? I do see that one of the the cam retainer plate bolts blocks the lifter oil gallery, is this what the book is refering to? Any help would be appreciated. |
| 4spd into 58 ranchero -- Bob Swartz, 12/23/2003
will a ford t-10 or toploader mate to my 1958 fe bellhousing? if not ,what 4 spd will? |
| | RE: sure...many will -- McQ, 12/23/2003
As for the "Ford" T-10 that was commonly used from late '61 through '64, it's a bolt up! You'll just need to run the ten spline clutch disc.
And as for the Ford toploader, there should be no problems either. The early toploader (1964) runs the narrow bolt pattern and so it should bolt up just like the early T-10. Then most later ('65) toploaders ran the dual bolt pattern so they could be retro-fitted to '64/earlier.
A windy answer that could have been a simple: YES. But when I hear about '58 Rancheros(anything '58 Ford!) being fitted with 4 speeds, I start showing my excitement by clicking this keyboard. |
| | | RE:another thing.. -- McQ, 12/23/2003
I just thought about something else:
Both the T-10/Toploader are a simple bolt up to your '58 FE bellhousing if the 4 speed tranny was originally from an FE.
I don't think a small block T-10/toploader will easily bolt up due to the longer input shaft required with a small block. But I know for a fact (but I've forgotten the details)that a big block FE 4 speed will work with a small block.
So if you are shopping for the 4 speed trans here's what to look for:
A big block 390 toploader 4 speed from a full size Ford/Merc or a Fairlane/Comet/Torino/Montego. These transmissions offer shifter mounting locations that'll work well for your '58 Ranchero.
A large diameter input shaft CJ 428 4 speed presents some problems with throw-out bearings, clutch discs, forks, etc. It's a tough tranny but the parts that need to go with it are generally hard to find/rare thus high buck. |
| | | | T-10 and Toploader -- Richard, 12/24/2003
Both are a bolt in if they came from a Galaxie. Not sure on the Fairlane, think the tailshaft is shorter,but the mount and shifter are in the same location. Also will bolt up to a y-block. If you use a Galaxie trans the stock Ranchero driveshaft will work. |
| | | | | RE: T-10 and Toploader -- Travis Miller, 12/29/2003
In the past I have taken the big Galaxie Toploader and replaced the 2.32 gears with a small block 2.78 gear set up. Just shorten the jackshaft snout so it will fit in the FE crank. Makes a heavy Galaxie launch good on the street. Don't worry about the smaller size input shaft. It will hold up unless the car is used for dragstrip only. |
| 4U crankshaft id ? -- Glenn, 12/22/2003
I'm not sure what a 4U is. Would someone please tell me what I'm looking at here. Thanks.
Glenn |
| engine won't start after running -- Dustin, 12/21/2003
I have a 1983 302 (full size Bronco). It starts easily first thing in the morning. Starts easy after turning off and on when hot. It WILL NOT start after running to a normal hot temp, shutting down and sitting for a little while. I have to let it sit overnight before it'll start up again. Anybody point me in the right direction here? I've already reaplce the ignition module. Thanks! |
| | RE: engine won't start after running -- Jim Shaver, 12/22/2003
not real sure but could possibly be an emmissions problem
ill look up some things i have here and get back to you on it
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| | Sounds like ethanol in the gas, to me. -- Dave Shoe, 12/22/2003
I'm not an authority on the topic, but I have an attitude and opinion to offer. It may be wrong, but:
The problem is carburetor heat soak. The carb and intake is normally cooled by the incoming air charge and fresh flowing fuel. If you turn it off for a period of time ranging from a couple minutes to an hour or so (depends on the weather), the intake manifold will tend to heat up very hot due to the exhaust crossover porting, and soon the carb will heat up quite a bit. This allows the more volatile parts of gasoline to boil. Nowadays, that usually means any ethanol in the gas has boiled, causing the carb, maybe even the fuel pump, to vapor lock.
If it was only the fuel pump, however, I don't believe there would be a starting problem. Instead I believe a hot engine would start easy but would tend to stall after a few seconds. For this reason, I focus on carburetor issues.
I securely block off the exhaust crossover in my intake to help prevent most occurances of this problem. Dunno if it really helps, but it sure seems to be effective. Note that wimpy blockage of the crossover may fail duing a backfire or when exhaust heat burns or corrodes it, and this can cause debris to enter the exhaust valve.
Shoe. |
| | What are the exact symptoms of this hard re-start problem? [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/22/2003
n/m |
| | | RE: What are the exact symptoms of this hard re-start problem? [n/m] -- Dustin, 12/23/2003
The only symptom other than not starting, is the smell of strong vapor fumes. Nothing else. It doesn't even try to start, just turns over till battery goes dead. Thanks |
| 390 vapor lock -- jeff jones, 12/21/2003
my 1967 fastback, 390 2v. auto. runs at 185 degrees while on the road. i have a re-built rad., 180 stat and rebuilt carb. when i restart car right after shutting it down, it is hard to start, seems like vapor lock. temp. gage i put on car reads 200 f. will a electic fuel pump solve this problem. if so what brand and where can i get a fuel pump block-off plate? |
| edelbrock aluminum water pump -- BarryMcLarty, 12/21/2003
Anyone had any experience with the edelbrock aluminum water pump in street use? have seen them on bracket racers,but was wondering on their durability on the street.Thanks |
| | RE: edelbrock aluminum water pump -- Gerry Proctor, 12/22/2003
The Edelbrock Victor pumps have the same durability as an iron pump. I've been using one on my 390 for the past couple of years. |
| | | RE: edelbrock aluminum water pump -- BarryMcLarty, 12/22/2003
Good enough,I"ll give it a shot,thanks. |
| | | Do aluminum water pumps cool better? n/m -- Dave Coleman, 12/23/2003
Dave Coleman |
| | RE: edelbrock aluminum water pump -- Gary Adam, 12/22/2003
I installed one on my 68 Cougar, 390 GT,
almost 3 years ago now, and no problems,
no leaks, fit perfectly, plus I think it looks
real good. Expensive, but I'm not the least
sorry I bought it. Mostly street driving, and
some track time too. |
| | RE: edelbrock aluminum water pump -- Tom, 03/02/2004
It's got to be an improvement over the 700 LB cast iron pump just in weight alone.After you change your first FE water pump without an engine hoist to lift that heavy bugga out of the engine compartment without damaging anything,,,,,,,,why didnt they have them back in the olden days when i had a few FE's? God hated me back then,,i guess.. |
| engine replacement -- Jim Shaver, 12/21/2003
in tearing a 200 l6 out of a 1968 mustang coupe and am rebuilding a 360 out of a 76 f150 for it... any input on the matter would be greatly appreciated( as in modifications necessary, what tranny i need, etc.) im also converting it from auto to manual tranny
thanks
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| | | RE: engine replacement -- Jim Shaver, 12/21/2003
the clutch isnt a problem since im changing it over anyways. i dont plan on using the trucks tranny for gearing purposes
any other info ?
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| | | | RE: engine replacement -- jake, 12/22/2003
I am not an expert on this swap, but I know you can buy the reproduction frame brackets to mount the FE engine in the 67-68 on ebay and that many companies including Hooker and FPA make headers for the FE/67-68 mustang.
You can probably fab or adapt your own trans crossmember. You will probably need to cut the driveshaft down to fit.
I'll bet the mustang reproduction companies make the clutch linkage you need check on the web with the repro companies. Any original FE/mustang parts will bring top dollar, from what I have seen on ebay, due to the popularity of the "Eleanor" clones. |
| | | | | RE: engine replacement -- Jim Shaver, 12/22/2003
ok one more quick question on the engine asked several people who have worked for Ford for 20 + years and noone seems quite sure about the answer..... is the 360 a big small block or a small big block?
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| | | | | | RE: engine replacement -- jake, 12/22/2003
Well, the FE was originally a replacement for the Y-block back in '58 or so. At that time there was no 'small block' (260, 289 etc) so it was not considered a 'big block' when it was engineered. Of course, when the small block came along (1962?) the FE became the big-block by default. I have most often heard it referred to as a big block.
The actual size/weight of a stock FE is between the small blocks and 429/460 big blocks. The FE shares no major components with the 429/460.
FE's came in 332,352,360,390,410,427 and 428 ci. The 360 is sort of a small big-block in comparision.
FYI, I think that 360s were a pretty low compression motor (for pulling heavy loads in trucks and running flat out for long periods). You would get the best results from any header/intake/cam changes if your compression was 9:1 to 9.5:1. |
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