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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19409&Reply=19409><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>c6 strength</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>wfo ford, <i>12/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have a c6 that is behind a 390 2v in a parts car. i just bought a sleeping GIANT. 427 with 428 crank and big blower. hoping to get 500-600 horses.its in pieces SLEEPING.WILL THIS C6 HOLD UP?<br>                                      </blockquote> c6 strength -- wfo ford, 12/06/2003
i have a c6 that is behind a 390 2v in a parts car. i just bought a sleeping GIANT. 427 with 428 crank and big blower. hoping to get 500-600 horses.its in pieces SLEEPING.WILL THIS C6 HOLD UP?
 RE: sure if... -- McQ, 12/07/2003
A properly, well built C6 can handle a lot of horsepower. Easily 500-600.

But I doubt that C6 backing your 390-2V is ready for the blown & stroked 427.

It's a good core to start with.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19408&Reply=19408><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Sway Bar Mfr(s)?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Geoff McNew, <i>12/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'd like to go up from stock 15/16" to a 1-1/8" (or better, 1-3/16") front sway bar for my '69 Mustang, but NO ONE seems to make bigger than a 1" bar that will clear the FE's oil filter.  Tried: Kantor, Addco, Hellwig, G-Force...does anyone know?  </blockquote> Sway Bar Mfr(s)? -- Geoff McNew, 12/06/2003
I'd like to go up from stock 15/16" to a 1-1/8" (or better, 1-3/16") front sway bar for my '69 Mustang, but NO ONE seems to make bigger than a 1" bar that will clear the FE's oil filter. Tried: Kantor, Addco, Hellwig, G-Force...does anyone know?
 RE: Sway Bar Mfr(s)? -- Martin Micheelsen, 12/08/2003
You may also try calling Global West Suspension. 1-877-470-2975. Their website does not show front sway bars, but since improved handling is their business, they must have them or know where to get them. Their website is at http://www.globalwest.net
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19405&Reply=19405><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 crank removal</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dale Cecil, <i>12/05/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey guys, I need your help.  Is it possible to remove the crank from my 390 without removing the heads and pistons?  I need to take my crank it to get it balanced, but I would rather not disassemble the entire engine to do it.   <br>Thanks<br> </blockquote> 390 crank removal -- Dale Cecil, 12/05/2003
Hey guys, I need your help. Is it possible to remove the crank from my 390 without removing the heads and pistons? I need to take my crank it to get it balanced, but I would rather not disassemble the entire engine to do it.
Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19406&Reply=19405><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 crank removal</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>12/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>OK, why do you need to balance the crank?<br>And please don't say getting it balanced will fix any and all troubles you are having.<br><br>We also need to know year and app. of the car to tell if you can pull the crank w/o pulling the block </blockquote> RE: 390 crank removal -- Charlie, 12/06/2003
OK, why do you need to balance the crank?
And please don't say getting it balanced will fix any and all troubles you are having.

We also need to know year and app. of the car to tell if you can pull the crank w/o pulling the block
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19410&Reply=19405><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 crank removal</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dale Cecil, <i>12/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Charlie,<br>The reason I believe I need to balance the crank is because I opened the engine and found a nickel sized piece of mallory metal in the pan.  Upon further inspection, it looks like the piece came out of the rear counterweight in the crank.  Inside the hole is some weld bead.  It does not have a smooth point at the bottom of the hole like the others do.  My theory is that the hole was over drilled and then filled with weld and mallory metal.  When the plug came out, the crank became unbalanced and the engine started to knock.  <br><br>The engine is in a 68 Mustang GT 390 coupe with 4speed transmission.<br><br>Thanks<br>Dale<br> </blockquote> RE: 390 crank removal -- Dale Cecil, 12/06/2003
Charlie,
The reason I believe I need to balance the crank is because I opened the engine and found a nickel sized piece of mallory metal in the pan. Upon further inspection, it looks like the piece came out of the rear counterweight in the crank. Inside the hole is some weld bead. It does not have a smooth point at the bottom of the hole like the others do. My theory is that the hole was over drilled and then filled with weld and mallory metal. When the plug came out, the crank became unbalanced and the engine started to knock.

The engine is in a 68 Mustang GT 390 coupe with 4speed transmission.

Thanks
Dale
 RE: 390 crank removal -- Charlie, 12/07/2003
In that case I would pull the engine. By the time you remove any z bar pieces in the way and fight the steering you will still have to fight the pistons from under the car risking damaging a journal. If you have the means I'd deff. pull it, roll in a new set of bearings and have the crank mic to see if it needs turned, look at an economy rebuild, cam lifters springs valve stem seals etc... Sounds like a lot of work but the pay off in security may save some big money down the road.
Just my 2 cents
Good Luck
Charlie
 RE: 390 crank removal -- giacamo, 12/08/2003
Dale pull the engine removing the fly weil timeing chane ect, will drive you nuts. in the car the crank i feal is best serviced on the stand.......
 RE: 390 crank removal -- bprewit, 12/08/2003
you can pull the crank leaving heads and pistons in place. Takes a couple of people to put it back in to guide the piston rods on the journals but I have done it before on sb ford. Pulled oil pan, oil pump, rod caps, main caps and eased it on out, turned the crank, had it balanced, stuffed it back in with new main and rod bearings. Not the easiest job but saved on ridge reaming the cylinders, all new gaskets, etc. I did replace timing chain though since i was to that point.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19401&Reply=19401><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Matt, <i>12/05/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>ok heres whats going on. i have a 1968 fairlane with a 390 and a c-6. i have a holley 650 duel feed and an performer intake. the car ran great and started to give me slight problems, but nothin i couldnt still drive on.  i went on vacation for a week and then when i got back the car wount hold ant idle.  i check the floats, needle and seats, vacum, timing. everything seems to be good. any help would be greatly appriciated! </blockquote> my 390 -- Matt, 12/05/2003
ok heres whats going on. i have a 1968 fairlane with a 390 and a c-6. i have a holley 650 duel feed and an performer intake. the car ran great and started to give me slight problems, but nothin i couldnt still drive on. i went on vacation for a week and then when i got back the car wount hold ant idle. i check the floats, needle and seats, vacum, timing. everything seems to be good. any help would be greatly appriciated!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19407&Reply=19401><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Martin Micheelsen, <i>12/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The new Hollys are supposed to have way better gaskets, but you may have an older carb like the one I used to have. When I used to experience the same problem a set of new gaskets would redirect the fuel to where it was supposed to go and the idle would return to normal. Especially after winter storage the cork gaskets would be toast. (I now have an Edelbrock carb since I don't have the time to mess with the carb on a regular basis) </blockquote> RE: my 390 -- Martin Micheelsen, 12/06/2003
The new Hollys are supposed to have way better gaskets, but you may have an older carb like the one I used to have. When I used to experience the same problem a set of new gaskets would redirect the fuel to where it was supposed to go and the idle would return to normal. Especially after winter storage the cork gaskets would be toast. (I now have an Edelbrock carb since I don't have the time to mess with the carb on a regular basis)
 RE: my 390 -- Matt, 12/07/2003
it is an older holley, yes. but it has new gaskets in it as of 2 months ago.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19417&Reply=19401><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>12/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Maybe a bad power valve thay will drive you nuts on a older holley....... </blockquote> RE: my 390 -- giacamo, 12/07/2003
Maybe a bad power valve thay will drive you nuts on a older holley.......
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19418&Reply=19401><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Matt, <i>12/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>how obviouse is a bad power valve visualy?  i looked at it and couldnt see any holes or anything out of the ordanary, but i replaced it with one out of a woking carb </blockquote> RE: my 390 -- Matt, 12/07/2003
how obviouse is a bad power valve visualy? i looked at it and couldnt see any holes or anything out of the ordanary, but i replaced it with one out of a woking carb
 RE: my 390 -- giacamo, 12/08/2003
thay make a power valve tester a bad one just looks just like a good one but the diafram leaks by.......
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19395&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>12/05/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I've posted in the past asking if anyone knew if there was a -Z- code 390 offered to a Fairlane purchaser in 1967.  There has never been a confirmation that the standard 390-4V/300 horse non GT engine was available as there was in 1966.  I've even got a '67 Ford Fairlane/Mustang/Cougar shop manual that does not show a seperate/distinct 390-4V non GT.  The '66 Shop Manual does show such being available and I've seen '66 Fairlanes with standard 390-4V's.<br><br>Well today I found one...where else but on eBay.  The item # is 2447004944<br><br>The VIN shown in a photo is:<br><br>7H35Z 204635<br><br>It's a nice car that has been modified here and there to represent a late sixties/early seventies drag racer.<br><br>But my point is that this is the first docmented '67 Fairlane I've seen with a 390-4V non GT engine.    </blockquote> Z code '67 Fairlane! -- McQ, 12/05/2003
I've posted in the past asking if anyone knew if there was a -Z- code 390 offered to a Fairlane purchaser in 1967. There has never been a confirmation that the standard 390-4V/300 horse non GT engine was available as there was in 1966. I've even got a '67 Ford Fairlane/Mustang/Cougar shop manual that does not show a seperate/distinct 390-4V non GT. The '66 Shop Manual does show such being available and I've seen '66 Fairlanes with standard 390-4V's.

Well today I found one...where else but on eBay. The item # is 2447004944

The VIN shown in a photo is:

7H35Z 204635

It's a nice car that has been modified here and there to represent a late sixties/early seventies drag racer.

But my point is that this is the first docmented '67 Fairlane I've seen with a 390-4V non GT engine.
 RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- giacamo, 12/05/2003
McQ about 8 months ago i sean a 4 door 67 at colorado springs salevation army car lot that had a 390 2v in it i,m still kicking my self in the ass for not buying it on the spot.i did not look at its id# but it was a donated car and had gt tipe exaust manifoldes on it.it looked stock?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19404&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>12/05/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi Mike!<br><br>I'm looking in the '67 Ford Car Service Specifications booklet and it lists these 390's for the Fairlane:<br><br>390 V-8 (2-V) Y code<br>390 V-8 (2-V) H code<br>390 V-8 (4-V) Z code<br>390 V-8 (4-V) S code GT<br><br>The Ranchero has them all too except for the S code.<br><br>Barry<br> </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- Barry B, 12/05/2003
Hi Mike!

I'm looking in the '67 Ford Car Service Specifications booklet and it lists these 390's for the Fairlane:

390 V-8 (2-V) Y code
390 V-8 (2-V) H code
390 V-8 (4-V) Z code
390 V-8 (4-V) S code GT

The Ranchero has them all too except for the S code.

Barry
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19411&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE:Thanks guys</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>12/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks giacomo and Barry.  <br><br>That '67 4 dr. 390-2V would have been a good one to pick up as a driver or at the least - a great parts donor.  Those exhaust manifolds are the exact same ones as used on the GT cars.<br><br>I just checked the '66 & '67 Mustang/Cougar/Comet/Fairlane shop manuals one more time.  Interesting to note that the '66 manual does not indicate an -S- code 390GT but it does show a -Z- code 390-4V; the '67 manual indicates an -S- code 390GT but not a -Z- code 390-4V.  We could speculate those omissions to death.<br><br>But thanks Barry for at least providing some documentation to a contention I made quite awhile ago that there was a standard 390-4V available to the '67 Fairlane purchaser. There were no positive affirmations made at the time.   I raced one back in '68.  It was a Fairlane 500, c-apple red, black bench interior, 4 speed.  It gave my '66 GTA a much better run than I'd expected.  So I was wondering if there was a possibility that if a person purchased a '67 390-4V, they got an -S- code even if the 'lane wasn't a GT car.  There were some who speculated that it was very possible that my opponent had converted his 2V to a 4V, etc.  <br><br> </blockquote> RE:Thanks guys -- McQ, 12/07/2003
Thanks giacomo and Barry.

That '67 4 dr. 390-2V would have been a good one to pick up as a driver or at the least - a great parts donor. Those exhaust manifolds are the exact same ones as used on the GT cars.

I just checked the '66 & '67 Mustang/Cougar/Comet/Fairlane shop manuals one more time. Interesting to note that the '66 manual does not indicate an -S- code 390GT but it does show a -Z- code 390-4V; the '67 manual indicates an -S- code 390GT but not a -Z- code 390-4V. We could speculate those omissions to death.

But thanks Barry for at least providing some documentation to a contention I made quite awhile ago that there was a standard 390-4V available to the '67 Fairlane purchaser. There were no positive affirmations made at the time. I raced one back in '68. It was a Fairlane 500, c-apple red, black bench interior, 4 speed. It gave my '66 GTA a much better run than I'd expected. So I was wondering if there was a possibility that if a person purchased a '67 390-4V, they got an -S- code even if the 'lane wasn't a GT car. There were some who speculated that it was very possible that my opponent had converted his 2V to a 4V, etc.

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23214&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>purchase</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>justin, <i>11/05/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>where would a good place to buy a 67 'lane with a 390gt </blockquote> purchase -- justin, 11/05/2004
where would a good place to buy a 67 'lane with a 390gt
 Justin: Start . . . -- Orin, 11/05/2004
. . here http://www.fairlaneclubofamerica.com/,
then join FCA. They probably have one of the best "club' magazines in the hobby. Well edited and very well written, the photos for the DIY stuff are all professional quality, and it has lots of ads. Top notch publication, and head-and-sholders above most of the other club mags out there.
Give it a try. I think it's only $25/year, or so.
 RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- John, 01/25/2006
Looking for a 1972 Ford Ranchero Brochure.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19423&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>is that engine the same as a 64" 300hp</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>blinker, <i>12/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>thanks </blockquote> is that engine the same as a 64" 300hp -- blinker, 12/08/2003
thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19427&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: is that engine the same as a 64" 300hp</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>12/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>the 64 390 dont have the extra engine mounts or the gt type exaust bolt pateren  </blockquote> RE: is that engine the same as a 64" 300hp -- giacamo, 12/08/2003
the 64 390 dont have the extra engine mounts or the gt type exaust bolt pateren
 RE:horsepower rating? -- McQ, 12/09/2003
giacomo has it about right. The '64 300 horse 390 was the standard performance 4V mill with a VIN -Z- code for the full size Ford/Merc. The '66 Fairlane, and apparently '67, also had the -Z- code standard performance 390-4V. The '66 390 -Z- code heads were probably C6-R or C6-U with a standard for all 390-4V's for '66 & up - the cast in S intake manifold. If I remember it correctly, the '66 standard 390-4V was rated at 315 horses. Most of the '67 390 standard 4V and GT got the C7 heads. And to add to the horsepower rating confusion, the '67/'68 390GT got a 320 horse rating.

I think it was 1967 that I gave up trying to make sense of Ford's horsepower ratings.
 RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- Royce, 12/09/2003
Thanks for pointing this one out Mike. I had never seen one of those before. Looks like a nice car too.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19514&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ed mcmanus, <i>12/18/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi All.  I must have missed this one when I was out of the country.  I have a '67 500 Fairlane  "z" code that I am going through now. The code is---7A35Z140218.  I had the fortune of getting it from my uncle that bought it new in Nov. '66.  It sat up long enough that he got tired of looking at in the back yard.  All original, front bench seat. Hope to get some serious work done to it this coming year.  Hope this helps with your information data base. </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- ed mcmanus, 12/18/2003
Hi All. I must have missed this one when I was out of the country. I have a '67 500 Fairlane "z" code that I am going through now. The code is---7A35Z140218. I had the fortune of getting it from my uncle that bought it new in Nov. '66. It sat up long enough that he got tired of looking at in the back yard. All original, front bench seat. Hope to get some serious work done to it this coming year. Hope this helps with your information data base.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19517&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>12/19/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for letting us know Ed.  I think the '67 Fairlane/Comet -Z- code 390 may be a little "rarer" than an -S- code 390GT.  That's pure speculation based on the very few '67 -Z- codes I've seen.  And I really don't think too many '66 Fairlane -Z- codes were sold either.<br><br>Not earth shaking stuff, just interesting to Fairlane/Comet fans like us.<br><br>So a bench seat with column shift C6?<br><br> </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- McQ, 12/19/2003
Thanks for letting us know Ed. I think the '67 Fairlane/Comet -Z- code 390 may be a little "rarer" than an -S- code 390GT. That's pure speculation based on the very few '67 -Z- codes I've seen. And I really don't think too many '66 Fairlane -Z- codes were sold either.

Not earth shaking stuff, just interesting to Fairlane/Comet fans like us.

So a bench seat with column shift C6?

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19519&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ed mcmanus, <i>12/19/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>HI McQ. Yep, bench seat with column shift C-6. I have two uncles and back then one had a '66 GT and the other uncle wanted one. The story goes that he actually ordered a '67 GT but when it showed up it was a 500 with a 390 and Equa-Loc rear end.  Going to get one of Marti's reports in the next month or so as part of the project.  Glad I could help, Ed </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- ed mcmanus, 12/19/2003
HI McQ. Yep, bench seat with column shift C-6. I have two uncles and back then one had a '66 GT and the other uncle wanted one. The story goes that he actually ordered a '67 GT but when it showed up it was a 500 with a 390 and Equa-Loc rear end. Going to get one of Marti's reports in the next month or so as part of the project. Glad I could help, Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19738&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>vonbimas67, <i>01/12/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>The Z codes are rare, I have two of them both two door sedans.Both cars are one of one in thier own specs. I think the Z-codes have been left out of the valued Fairlanes and seem to haver started coming out of the wood work the last while.<br>Doug </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- vonbimas67, 01/12/2004
The Z codes are rare, I have two of them both two door sedans.Both cars are one of one in thier own specs. I think the Z-codes have been left out of the valued Fairlanes and seem to haver started coming out of the wood work the last while.
Doug
 RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- ed mcmanus, 01/20/2004
Hi All. Got my report from Marti Auto on my 390 '67 Fairlane 500 and by the sheet mine is one of only 560 built the same way. Wonder how many are left?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24933&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>tim lundy, <i>05/12/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>i had a 67 fairlane xl that had the 390 z code 315 hp engine c-6 trans 3.25 rear gears car was red on red and had gobs of power i own a 66 cyclone gt now i love those cars </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- tim lundy, 05/12/2005
i had a 67 fairlane xl that had the 390 z code 315 hp engine c-6 trans 3.25 rear gears car was red on red and had gobs of power i own a 66 cyclone gt now i love those cars
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26570&Reply=19395><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Z code '67 Fairlane!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>greg f, <i>01/06/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>z codes were 4100 carburated that was the only differance </blockquote> RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- greg f, 01/06/2006
z codes were 4100 carburated that was the only differance
 RE: Z code '67 Fairlane! -- McQ, 01/26/2006
Not quite Greg. The GT 390 had a different cam - C6OZ-B which was a much better shaft than the standard -Z- code cam. The GT cam would easily rev to 5,500 where the standard 4V camshaft was limited to 4,800 at best. The C6OZ-B cam also came with a little better set of lifters and valve springs that accomodated the higher RPMs.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19384&Reply=19384><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>67-68 mustang engine swap (428)</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>hunter, <i>12/03/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>How difficult is it to fit a 428CJ in to a 67-68 fastback mustang? If it can be done can some one point me in the right direction. Also is anyone selling this type of Mustang?     thanks, Hunter </blockquote> 67-68 mustang engine swap (428) -- hunter, 12/03/2003
How difficult is it to fit a 428CJ in to a 67-68 fastback mustang? If it can be done can some one point me in the right direction. Also is anyone selling this type of Mustang? thanks, Hunter
 RE: 67-68 mustang engine swap (428) -- Gerry Proctor, 12/04/2003
It's not difficult at all. You only need the correct frame and engine block mounts to drop it in since the FE was a factory option in those years. The hardest part will be coming up with a 428CJ and the correct exhaust manifolds for the Mustang chassis (or use headers). You'd also want to look at using front springs that are matched to the FE's weight. And if this car has an 8" rear, you don't want to beat on it too hard until you replace it with an appropriate 9" rear.

428CJ and SCJ Mustangs are for sale all the time. You just need deep pockets.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19390&Reply=19384><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 67-68 mustang engine swap (428)</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>12/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>You'll also need the big block sway bar if the 'stang didn't come with one.  The oil filter will hit the non-big block sway bar. </blockquote> RE: 67-68 mustang engine swap (428) -- Barry B, 12/04/2003
You'll also need the big block sway bar if the 'stang didn't come with one. The oil filter will hit the non-big block sway bar.
 RE: 67-68 mustang engine swap (428) -- hunter, 12/05/2003
Charlie, I have the 428, do you think it would be easier to find a Mustang with a 390 in it? From what I'm hearing this would bolt right up.
Craig
 RE: 67-68 mustang engine swap (428) -- Charlie, 12/05/2003
http://www.fomoco.com/ford-forum-FE/results.asp?Page=1&Max=20&Option=0&Name=on&Email=on&Key=390%20swap

I've done a couple of these swaps now. It isn't that tough and all the parts needed can be found at fomoco.com or on ebay.
Also mansfield mustang, they sell all and any fe parts you'll need.


http://mansfieldmustang.com/CatalogOpenningpage.html


RE: 390 swap
by Will 8/18/2001, IP 24.162.191.90
I swapped a 428 into a 67 Mustang that came with a 289. Here's what I had to change...

- motor mounts. The frame mounts were the same in 67, but I think they changed in 68. I don't have a clue what they were like in 69

- The radiator is different, but you may be able to make the 302 radiator work. Check which sides the hoses connect. You'll also need a "good" radiator, 'cause it takes more to cool a 390 than a 302.

- The exhaust is all different, so plan on getting FPA headers and all new exhaust tubing. You could run manifolds, but why?

- I have 650# front coil springs, and I like them. I think the 289 springs were something like 470#.

- I have the export brace and monte carlo bar, plus I welded a plate inside the shock tower (the spring side). I also have Global West upper and lower A-arms, but they weren't necessary for the FE.

- You have to watch the sway bar. I had a small block 1" bar and the oil filter hit it. I think there's an FE specific sway bar, but I also had a remote oil filter hookup, so I just used that.

- The trans is different. If you're running a C-6, you should be okay. If you're running a 4-speed, you'll need an FE specific bellhousing, Z-bar, throwout arm, plus the brackets that mount on the frame and block for the Z-bar. If I had it to do over again, I'd buy a scattershield and adapt a cable clutch.

- Don't forget all the accessories on the front of the engine. You may need to buy brackets, etc. for the alternator, power steering, air conditioning (assuming you have air or p/s - I don't).

It actually isn't that hard of a swap - motor mounts, exhaust, trans at a minimum. Preferrably an upgrade to disc brakes and springs, monte carlo bar, export brace. The biggest problem is the expense. Expect to pay $500 for headers, $300 for clutch linkage, ~$300 for motor mounts, ?? for trans.

I can't think of anything else, so I'll shut up
 RE: 67-68 mustang engine swap (428) -- Greg Westphall, 12/05/2003
I am by far no expert with regard to Mustangs (I own a 69 Cyclone CJ) but I think it is a little harder than you might have been led to believe. It is true that it is a direct bolt in with proper mounts, but, If you do not start with a Mustang that already had an FE in it you will need a larger radiator, the correct pulleys, alternator brackets, power steering pump brackets, power steering cooler, FE high pressure power steering hose, front springs, rear springs, C6 trans with proper kickdown mechanism or toploader or equivalent, bell housing, clutch, CJ flywheel or flex plate, trans mounts, drive shaft with yokes for big block trans and 9" rear end, Drum to drum 9" rear end ( you will break the 8" unit), CJ exhaust manifolds, h-pipe for a Cobrajet, dual exhaust hangers, fan blade, fan clutch, oil filter housing, sway bar and engine wiring harness. In addition to these items you will have to perform additional reinforcing to the shock towers. There is a kit for it. I would not advise you to do the swap without doing this modification. I would highly recommend you start with a big block car. Also, make darn sure the torque boxes are in good shape and there are 2 of them, one on each side. I have seen 67 mustangs with only one torque box. They can be welded in and replaced if necessary.
Hope this helps.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19382&Reply=19382><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>268 Comp Question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Willy Swan, <i>12/03/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>l am looking for some guidance on building my 390.   <br><br>It is going into a custom '65 T-bird convertible.  I've got the body shaved, Air Rides on the corners, and T-Thrust II's.  It is out for paint now and l am working on the motor and trans. l am rebuilding the Cruiseomatic and sticking with the stock convertor.   The car will be used as a cruiser with the occasional run at the vintage drags. <br><br>I will stay with the C4AE-G heads and l plan to have Stan at FPA build me a set of headers.  l will keep the compression between 9.5:1 and 10:1.<br><br>Now for the questions - l am considering going with Edelbrock Performer 390 intake (not RPM) and the 600 CFM carb with electric chock - any thoughts? Also, l would appreciate any input on cam selection.  l am considering the 268 Comp but wondering if a milder RV grind my be a better choice.   <br><br>l appeciate any and all opinions and will keep you up to date on my progress.  </blockquote> 268 Comp Question -- Willy Swan, 12/03/2003
l am looking for some guidance on building my 390.

It is going into a custom '65 T-bird convertible. I've got the body shaved, Air Rides on the corners, and T-Thrust II's. It is out for paint now and l am working on the motor and trans. l am rebuilding the Cruiseomatic and sticking with the stock convertor. The car will be used as a cruiser with the occasional run at the vintage drags.

I will stay with the C4AE-G heads and l plan to have Stan at FPA build me a set of headers. l will keep the compression between 9.5:1 and 10:1.

Now for the questions - l am considering going with Edelbrock Performer 390 intake (not RPM) and the 600 CFM carb with electric chock - any thoughts? Also, l would appreciate any input on cam selection. l am considering the 268 Comp but wondering if a milder RV grind my be a better choice.

l appeciate any and all opinions and will keep you up to date on my progress.
 RE: 268 Comp Question -- Gerry Proctor, 12/03/2003
Sounds like a good combination. If you were to stick with Comp, I'd probably look at the 260H. It's all done by about 4,500rpm but it offers great throttle response and low-end torque and would be more beneficial in moving a heavy car with a tall rear gear and an automatic. It also nicely matches the flow characteristics of the Performer with the 600 carb.
 RE: 268 Comp Question -- giacamo, 12/03/2003
the 268 is a great cam please mach springs. the 260 or 265 might be a better choise with a automatic. my self i,d toss the two pice spring retainres. and go with one pice retainers. and please mach springs.......
 Get the 260H -- Royce, 12/03/2003
In a heavy Bird the 260H is a good choice. I had the 268H in a '68 428CJ Cougar and loved it but you have 1500 more pounds to lug around and a lot more vacuum powered accessories.

Royce
 RE: 268 Comp Question -- Dale Cecil, 12/04/2003
I have the 268H in a 68 Mustang GT 390 w/4speed. It is a bit lopey at idle, but runs nice as soon as you get going up into the power curve. You have to be careful with that one on the first stop. It doesn't build enough vacuum for the brake booster for a few minutes. As long as you are aware of it, its no problem. I have a stop sign at the bottom of my street after a long downhill. The first time I did it, it required "extra" braking power with the leg.
 how about a 255DEH? -- Barry B, 12/04/2003
it will give you tons of low-end torque and vacuum, the dual pattern will help with those restrictive Tbird manifolds.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19380&Reply=19380><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 crank</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>bprewit, <i>12/02/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey I have a crank from a industrial 428 engine, if I remember right it is 1UB on counterweight. It has a bad rod journal that needs to be hard welded and reground which isnt a real cheap ordeal, and was wondering if it is worth fixing or easier to pick up a decent used crank from somewhere like ebay? </blockquote> 428 crank -- bprewit, 12/02/2003
Hey I have a crank from a industrial 428 engine, if I remember right it is 1UB on counterweight. It has a bad rod journal that needs to be hard welded and reground which isnt a real cheap ordeal, and was wondering if it is worth fixing or easier to pick up a decent used crank from somewhere like ebay?
 RE: 428 crank -- Gerry Proctor, 12/03/2003
Despite what seems to be prevalent in the auctions (super rare…only one known to exist) when it comes to 428 stuff, these cranks are not yet rare enough to justify the cost of extreme machining to make it useable. It would be cheaper to find another crank or just spend a few more bucks and get a new Scat crank.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19387&Reply=19380><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 428 crank</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gil Jordan, <i>12/03/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Don't do it.  I am a certified ASE Master Machinist with over 23 years professional experience.  Nobody guarantees a welded crank not to break and I've seen them break later.  I just picked up a complete 428 out of '68 wagon for $150.  Not sexy, but with a new top end, viola.  Never be in a hurry to make a mistake, good stuff is still out there. </blockquote> RE: 428 crank -- Gil Jordan, 12/03/2003
Don't do it. I am a certified ASE Master Machinist with over 23 years professional experience. Nobody guarantees a welded crank not to break and I've seen them break later. I just picked up a complete 428 out of '68 wagon for $150. Not sexy, but with a new top end, viola. Never be in a hurry to make a mistake, good stuff is still out there.
 I have had a few of the industrial 428's -- Ross, 12/05/2003
Before you make any decision, have it magnafluxed, most of them run HUGE multi shieve pulleys on the front and the cranks almost always are cracked. I bet I would go through 3 to get one good one at best
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19378&Reply=19378><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>rack & pinion conversion Yes/No</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jeff, <i>12/02/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thinking of doing a TCP power rack and pinion convertion to my 69 390 powered mach 1.   The old P/S system leaks and  the steering box has lots of play.<br> Anyone out there have experience with the TCP or other  rack kits for the early Mustang/Couger ? </blockquote> rack & pinion conversion Yes/No -- jeff, 12/02/2003
Thinking of doing a TCP power rack and pinion convertion to my 69 390 powered mach 1. The old P/S system leaks and the steering box has lots of play.
Anyone out there have experience with the TCP or other rack kits for the early Mustang/Couger ?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19414&Reply=19378><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: rack & pinion conversion Yes/No</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Travis Miller, <i>12/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Converting to a rack and pinion is an excellent way to lower the value of your early Mustang.  Of course if its already cut up for the dragstrip then no big deal, go for it.  Lots of Super/Gas-Super/Pro Mustangs have rack and pinion steering.  But then a lot of them have Chevy engines too.  Sorry but the truth hurts.  I just hate to see potentionally valuable musclecars destroyed by senseless modifications.  <br><br>Whats wrong with fixing what you have?   </blockquote> RE: rack & pinion conversion Yes/No -- Travis Miller, 12/07/2003
Converting to a rack and pinion is an excellent way to lower the value of your early Mustang. Of course if its already cut up for the dragstrip then no big deal, go for it. Lots of Super/Gas-Super/Pro Mustangs have rack and pinion steering. But then a lot of them have Chevy engines too. Sorry but the truth hurts. I just hate to see potentionally valuable musclecars destroyed by senseless modifications.

Whats wrong with fixing what you have?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19416&Reply=19378><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: rack & pinion conversion Yes/No</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John Stuttle, <i>12/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Lowering the value?? This is a bolt on that can easily be converted back.  Not everyone thinks that a all original car is the cats meow. I have built 3 highly modified 69 70 Mach 1 428 CJ cars (check out www.marionmustang.com) and all have sold for top dollar and won best of shows!! If you think it may lower the value keep the original parts in case the potential new owner would want them, then you have both bases covered. - john </blockquote> RE: rack & pinion conversion Yes/No -- John Stuttle, 12/07/2003
Lowering the value?? This is a bolt on that can easily be converted back. Not everyone thinks that a all original car is the cats meow. I have built 3 highly modified 69 70 Mach 1 428 CJ cars (check out www.marionmustang.com) and all have sold for top dollar and won best of shows!! If you think it may lower the value keep the original parts in case the potential new owner would want them, then you have both bases covered. - john
 RE: rack & pinion conversion Yes/No -- Travis Miller, 12/08/2003
Beautiful '69 Mustang, John. How much value would a rack and pinion add to that one?

As for one who appreciates beautifully restored original cars, I would not walk across the street to look at your Ultimate Cobra Jet. However I would spend a lot of time viewing the red '69 Mustang. Different strokes for different folks.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=19374&Reply=19374><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>2001 Mustang - timing cover problem</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Sam, <i>12/02/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>We have a 2001 Mustang, 6-cylinder. After several visits to the dealership (while the car was under warranty) for a loud banging noise, finally it was determined that the timing chain was banging against the timing cover. After several conversations, it was decided by the lead mechanic to replace the timing chain and cover, and that "it would not affect the longevityof the motor or drivetrain". Excuse me? A major component like a timing chain banging against the cover is NOT a major problem? I also heard from several of the other mechanics that this is a COMMON problem with this year and motor. Any thoughts or comments out there? And would YOU ditch this car ASAP too? (I am thinking of getting rid of this ASAP). Thanks! </blockquote> 2001 Mustang - timing cover problem -- Sam, 12/02/2003
We have a 2001 Mustang, 6-cylinder. After several visits to the dealership (while the car was under warranty) for a loud banging noise, finally it was determined that the timing chain was banging against the timing cover. After several conversations, it was decided by the lead mechanic to replace the timing chain and cover, and that "it would not affect the longevityof the motor or drivetrain". Excuse me? A major component like a timing chain banging against the cover is NOT a major problem? I also heard from several of the other mechanics that this is a COMMON problem with this year and motor. Any thoughts or comments out there? And would YOU ditch this car ASAP too? (I am thinking of getting rid of this ASAP). Thanks!
 RE: 2001 Mustang - timing cover problem -- Gerry Proctor, 12/02/2003
Sounds like you lost the tensioner. It's not what I would call a major problem. True, the engine will not run without the chain, it's not a major component in the realm of stressed components. While there might be some aluminum shavings and particles from the chain/cover contact, those that would do damage to the main and rod bearings would likely be picked up by the oil filter.

You probably have a pretty good platform to have Ford customer service authorize a no-cost extended warranty on the engine.

And, by the way, this forum is principally for Ford engines last made over 30 years ago. There are forums out there that deal with the late models like your Mustang.
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