likely will fit as you should have plenty of room. I have a Hooker catalog handy, which lists part number 6912HKR to fit a 1980-95 pickup (all sizes) w/351W I am sure other brands will have a similar listing.

Regards,
Dan

428 SCJ came with different rods than a standard CJ. They were much much stronger. Did you also have an oil cooler? 3.91 or 4.31 gears? This would be a "drag pack" Mustang.

n/m

...first is to use an adaptor to pump air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. These can be bought or made from an old spark plug (gutted) with an air hose fitting welded to it.

The second involves a length of clothes line (1/4" or so). Stuff this into the cylinder and rotate the engine (by hand!) until it is wedged against the valves. Works great, won't hurt anything, don't cost anything!

With either method, use a rubber mallet and give the retainer a couple of good wacks to loosen the locks from the retainer. Then use a on-head spring compressor (looks like an L-shaped piece of stamped metal) over the stud to remove the retainers/locks.

Cheers,
Dan

you are shifting the boring bar in relation to the center of the current bore to give you safe cylinder wall thickness in all directions. It may only be shifted a few thousandths or may be shifted a few hundreths. This shift will not normally affect any alignment that the current clearances can't take care of during engine operation.

This shift takes into consideration how much you are going to 'over' bore the block from std bore size.

I have a 1967 Galaxie XL factory 4-speed car. Yes, they have reverse lockout. I believe the '66 shifter is the same, but I can not confirm that. The cross members should also be the same for auto/manual. Make sure you get a toploader from a '65-up full size, as they had a different tail housing than the rest. I would suggest finding as many parts from one vehicle since they are unique to the full size. I have been looking for a Hurst shifter for mine, but Hurst no longer makes it.

There were NASCAR rods used in the 427 but they required a different crank. These rods had a wider big end (+0.040 for each rod or +.080 for the journal set)and without significant machine work, would not fit on a standard FE crank. I really doubt you'd be able to safely machine a standard crank the additional .080 to fit these rods. Now, that only leaves one real possibility -that the engine was also fitted with the matching 427 NASCAR crank (C9AZ-6303-D). Which means that the engine was a de-stroked 428 (meaning a 406-inch based upon a 428) or that your 428 was never a 428. The 428 would have come with a standard rod with bolts and nuts or the capscrew LeMans rods in the Super Cobra Jet, both with a standard rod width. The wide rods and companion crank were never installed in an engine for a production chassis. It was an over-the-counter piece.

Now, I've never heard of the word NASCAR being part of the forging blank. They were, like all Ford, parts coded with the appropriate alpha/numeric stamping, in this case C7OE-6200-A

....to find out why:

Design a new head:
1 contract engineer + software x 6 months = $100,000
1 contract CAD designer + software x 2 months = $18,000
Prototype cycles x 3 = $75,000

Make it:
Sand cast tooling (match plates, core boxes): $80,000
Machining & part handling dunnage: $25,000

OK, so now we've got $298,000 and no heads yet. Let's do a run of 100 pairs.

Raw castings: $1,000 set up charge, $200/head
Machine the castings: $1000 set up charge, $300/head. These will be lower with a higher volume.

That's another $102,000.

So, we have 100 pairs of heads and have spent $400K. That's a COST of $4000 each pair. Now the manufacturer needs to get his profit (50% margin on such a low margin) and sell them to the wholesaler for $8K a pair. The retailer needs his 50% margin, so they will retail for $16K a pair.

To get the economics more sensible, like $3000/pair bare retail price, the manufacturer would need to sell about 2000 pairs to break even. That is after investing $1.3M not counting any marketing, advertising, storage or transportation costs.

Don't sound like a good business move to me.

Regards,
Dan

+

With the new ignition parts wasn't a plug gap suggested? I agree with Royce sound like your out there with that gap but I have seen somewhere that these new electronic devices can handle the gap they just work very hard. Might you have a fuel filter thats slowed by dirt. The way you descibe the start sound like lack of fuel then once started to much until the system settles down. Can't help with the tranny problem might want to put it on a rack and have someone look while shifting to see if everything is clear. You need to change the exhaust gasket over time that could affect the valve in that area. Since the motor is stock leave the timing alone set it at what your manual recomends. Hope this helps.

Darel:

Something just doesn't sound right, You Should notice an improvement with what you've done. I suggest that you recheck your firing order, It's too easy to get it wrong. Also, remember that the settings in the book are there to get the thing running, not necessarily running the best possible, a little change in timing, advance curve, pump shot etc., etc. can help dial in your combination. You might want to check the "play" in your timing chain too! With engine off, remove the distributor cap and turn engine over by hand until rotor moves, then reverse direction until rotor moves again. There should not be much movement, if there is a lot of movement, then it's time to replace the timing chain. JMO, Ron

n.m.

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