It's a Holley model 1860 4 barrel carb. It is rated at 600 CFM.

Royce Peterson

try http://www.lentechautomatics.com/. Lentech builds an AOD for the FE. They may be willing to sell you the correctly cut front section to bolt to your AOD, but you would have to take it to a machinist to get the front cut off the AOD and then drill it for the bolts. If you don't already have "THE" AOD built, you'd probably be better off to just get the Lentech. They are spendy, and Lentech says that OD is only good for 400 ftlbs of torque. Any strong FE will be making 400 lbs just about anytime the secondaries are open. That fact has kept me looking for a better way. Maybe a GearVendor OD, any one out there with any experience on these?

A bad ground can indeed show the symtoms you describe. So can a bad alternator. It's easy to troubleshoot. First, make sure you have a good connection between your negative battery terminal and the engine block and the alternator housing. Then, with a charged battery, start the car and measure the voltage across the battery. If it shows 12 volts, the alternator is not charging the battery. If it shows close to 14 volts, then the charging system is working fine. By the way...if you have a seperate voltage regulator, it can go causing the alternator to not charge the battery. Check the connections to it as well.

Sounds like the regulator. Also check the fluid in your battery and make sure the battery is large enough to handle your application. It's easy to overlook simple things when you are frustrated.

This carb in it's original release of 0-3310-1 was original equipment on the 1966 Chevelle SS396. It became popular to install on all sorts of other cars when Edelbrock and Holley offered it as part of a package deal using Holley carb and Edelbrock intake in the late 60's and early 1970's. Millions have been sold.

Holley orginally rated it at 780 CFM but downrated advertised flow in the 1980's without changing the carburetor. They also eliminated the secondary metering block in favor of a metering plate about the same time.

Theses carbs need to be jetted down to work on a stock 428CJ, I have used 68 / 74 jetting with success. A 390 would need to go down a little further.

Royce Peterson

Snap - On and KD both still sell this tool. I bought one from Snap - On about 10 years ago for around $30.00.

Most auto part stores sell K-D tools.

Royce Peterson

reinstalled mine for $5. I stopped at several repair shops and none would do it for less than $30. I could not find a tool for less than $59.

Maybe ask your local independant auto parts store (not Pep Boys or the like) if they offer this service? If in the Detroit area, the name is United Auto Parts on Gratiot in Roseville.

Dan

...see this old post http://fomoco.com/forum-ford-fe/reply.asp?ID=9993&Reply=9993 or hit the search button below and find more threads.

Regards,
Dan

well so far it looks like 68 something i lost my book-0-part numbers but for future refrence on the Intake thats not a Serial thats the Firing order

your block is a Dec 8, 68 casting. Heads are the "standard, found on everything, small runner/valve" 67 version. Intake is a CJ, great intake, although a little heavy. What you have here is a rebuilt engine of unknown displacement, built from parts from 67 and 68. You can look on this forum to find some trick to get a good idea what the stroke is, but you can't really tell what the bore is without yanking a head. You didn't find anything on the block like a C6ME-A? My guess is a rebuilt (probably bored something like 30 over) with the CJ intake. With 390GT or better cam and a good set of headers, this should be a strong running setup.

The stock ratio for a 410 was 1.73 because all 410's had non adjustable rockers.

Some 352's, some 390's, some 428's and some 427's had solid lifter cams which required the adjustable rockers. Adjustable rockers have the 1.76 ratio.

Royce Peterson