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| Inline six Freeze Plugs Help Please -- Larry Dew, 05/31/2002
I have a water leak between the bellhousing and the engine. I think there should be at least one freeze plug there, but the dealer said NO.
This is a 1978 F-100 with the 300 CID inline six. Help Please. Please info lmdew@hotmail.com |
| anyone have any experience with probe racing pisto -- joe schepker, 05/31/2002
i came across a set for my 427 top oiler and i want to use them with my lemans rods. only thing, is that i don't know anything about them or anyone who has used them. they're brand new flattops. sorry for all the questions, i appreciate all the help. joe |
| Carter high volume pump noise? -- Matt, 05/31/2002
I just finished rebuilding my 428CJ. It runs great, except for a "ticking" sound at the front of the engine. It sounds a little like a bad lifter, but it's up front instead of on top. I'm using a Carter high volume fuel pump, do those make that kind of noise? I've never had one before so I don't know what to expect. Thanks, Matt |
| | RE: Carter high volume pump noise? -- John, 05/31/2002
No, they are quiet. What about your waterpump bearing? They can squeal, but they can also "click" |
| | | RE: Carter high volume pump noise? -- salid, 05/31/2002
I've seen the pump make a clucking noise. You can localize the noise using a stethescope on top of a pump and the front cover, versus the top of the heads. You could have some wear on the pump arm or the eccentric. Remember that there are also 2 other place where slack can be introduced. They are the pump mounting holes and the front cover holes. The problem I saw was corrected by removing the front cover and re-installing it. A trick I've seen offered on this forum is the way to install the cover. Before you tighten the mounting bolts, temporarily install the spacer on the front of the crank to center the front cover arround the crank. For the problem engine I was helping on, this fixed the noise problem. It was a recent rebuild and the front cover was not centered. By the way, since the cover was not centered on the crank, the front seal would likely have begun to leak because it was noticeably tighter on the top than the bottom. |
| | | | RE: Carter high volume pump noise? -- Bill, 06/01/2002
Interesting salid. You mean there were no locating pins to properly align the front cover? I thought all engines indexed their fron covers via locating dowels of some sort.
I am in complete agreement about the mechanics stethescope BTW. A handy tool to isolate noises. |
| | | | | RE: Carter high volume pump noise? -- John, 06/02/2002
Nope, there are no dowel or locating pins....it's a best attempt made using the damper spacer...which usually works. Can't see that causing the noise though. However, an improperly installed fuel pump cam could make the noise. The cam locates on the camshaft to sprocket dowel pin, and if it's not located properly, the fuel pump cam will be prone to coming loose and then nosie will start. |
| 428cj Exhaust Leak -- marty vogler, 05/31/2002
Question for Shoe or Royce, my '69 R code Mustang has a nagging exhaust manifold leak on the left side. I have replaced the "donut" several times over the years but it always comes back. do ya'll know of a more permanent fix? I am running the stock cj manifolds. |
| | RE: 428cj Exhaust Leak -- Royce Peterson, 05/31/2002
Use the steel donut available still from Ford. The fiber ones don't last.
I think it has a C8LY (Lincoln) part number.
Royce Peterson |
| lemans rods versus lowriser rods -- joe schepker, 05/31/2002
i've been following the various forums for some time now and admittedly i have made a few mistakes(but i'm quickly learning.) anyway, a question concerning a 427 top oiler that i'm building. i have a set of C6AE-E lemans rods and a set of C3AE rods. are the lemans rods good for the street? i hear that they are heavier than the others. would the weight difference make a noticible difference? it'll never be raced, but i will drive it hard. i'm running the cast C3AE crank with a 4 speed in a 66 GT fairlane. thanks for the help! joe |
| | RE: lemans rods versus lowriser rods -- joe schepker, 05/31/2002
concerning the last post, the crank is a C4AE-B crank, not a C3. sorry, had a brainfart. thanks! |
| | | That crank is balanced for the low-riser rods..... -- kevin, 05/31/2002
from the factory. If you use the factory flat tops, it will be in balance close enough to drive if you have not polished the rods, or removed any weight from the piston. Use the others, amd you will not have enough counterweight, and it will need a complete rebalance with weight added. You wont notice a difference between either one for street driving. Both need ARP bolts. Sell the LeMans, and use the money for the bolts, and resizing, along with new bushings. |
| | | | RE: That crank is balanced for the low-riser rods..... -- joe schepker, 05/31/2002
i'm using forged probe pistons, flattops. |
| | | | RE: That crank is balanced for the low-riser rods..... -- joe schepker, 05/31/2002
the lemans rods have been polished at some time in their life. also, i was told by a few people that you really want a lightweight piston as they are easier on the rods. so, with that in mind wouldn't a person be ahead by using the stronger rods for street use? jmo. thanks |
| | | | | RE: That crank is balanced for the low-riser rods..... -- hawkrod, 05/31/2002
can't imagine whay any one would need a stronger rod for street use. i have never seen a rod break from failure of the rod itself in a street car. i have seen them break because the driver lost oil pressure or seriously over reved it or didn't use good bolts. but i have never seen a street motor have a rod break from normal use. the regular rods are lighter, and when you polish and blast them and put good bolts in they are better than a lemans rod was when they were new. this means that you are spinning less weight and it should rev faster and put less load on connected parts so the engine should last just that much longer (not that you could actually measure the difference). lemans rods do have a mystique but i am afraid that their time has come. keep them in the big inch high horse motors and use technology to your advantage in a street motor. just my .02. hawkrod |
| | | | | | thanks for the info, .... -- joe schepker, 06/01/2002
i just figured since i already have them, i might as well use them. thought i'd get some expert advice first....joe |
| | RE: lemans rods versus lowriser rods -- Paul Hampton, 06/01/2002
I have used both in street/strip 428s and you would not notice any performance difference in the two but why not use the stronger lemans rods if you have them laying around. Just get everything balanced of course. |
| 427 MR intake vs. CJ -- Ted Young, 05/30/2002
A while back I was told that I should pick up a MR, PI,sidewinder, F427, or RPM intake for the C6AER heads I plan to run on my 390. I finally got a deal on one - a 427 MR. I was just wondering, but how do the MR, sidewinder, and CJ intakes compare? Are they all pretty much the same in layout? Is the f427 a copy of the ford intakes?
Thanks, Ted |
| | RE: 427 MR intake vs. CJ -- Royce Peterson, 05/30/2002
All the intakes you mention are basically the same. I 1967 the Medium Riser and PI used the same intake. The CJ is slightly different in the area where the pushrods go through, just a simplification of the casting. The CJ intake is also made of cast iron.
You will notice that the port on your intake is smaller than the head vertically. Do not lower the intake port, it works great as is. If you decide to port the intake or heads it should be upward or wider.
Royce Peterson |
| | RE: 427 MR intake vs. CJ -- joe schepker, 05/31/2002
i'm not sure if this helps, but the shop that i'm buying parts from for my 427 tells me that on his dyno the bluethunder intake is worth about 15 horsepower over the sidewinder using 428CJ heads. that swayed me from the 30 yr. old technology. just what i've been told.............joe |
| engine date code vs car build date -- Stuart Cofer, 05/30/2002
What is a reasonable time frame for a 428cj block date code and the cars build date? |
| | On my "non-FE" V8. . . -- Orin, 05/30/2002
. . . .the casting date was 19 August, the engine assembly date was 22 August and the car's scheduled build date was Sept. 2. On an identical replacement engine the casting date was Jan. 5 and the engine assembly was Jan. 22. I don't know a scheduled build date of the vehcile this engine came out of. The lead times for 428cjs may be considerably different because fewer made. Hope this helps . . . . |
| | RE: engine date code vs car build date -- Royce Peterson, 05/30/2002
It depends. The 1968 blocks were cast in batches for the first few cars, some as early as June 1967 were installed in cars produced in October 1967 for example. These were the prototype and press vehicles and the Winternationals drag race cars.
Later cars would have a casting typically 8 - 10 weeks before build date. Heaviest production was for the 1969 model year, block castings might be closer to scheduled build date for the busiest production schedule times.
Mustang Club of America has a rule about this but I do not own a rule book and think the whole thing is overblown with regard to its effect on a car's value. I would be more interested in it being the correct model year and in good condition personally.
Royce Peterson
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| hydraulic to solid -- Rob, 05/29/2002
I have a hydraulic cam 390 block, and Im looking at solids to put in it, Do I have to block any oil passages to keep oil off of the solid lifters, or any other mods other than rocker arms and pushrods?? Any info will be appreciated.. thanks
Rob |
| '67 14 bolt vs. '68 16 bolt heads -- davis, 05/29/2002
i have an opportunity to purchase a built 390 with the 16 bolt heads. i know these will not fit my 67 ranchero exhaust mans. unless i add headers (FPA units) is there really a diff. in performance between these 2 heads? i'm trying to decide if i should buy a newly built motor or get my tired one redone. i'm not exactly wealthy either. any comments? |
| | RE: OK were are all the head men! -- RC Moser, 05/30/2002
I would use which ever one would fit and least cost to rebuild. If the combustion chambers are the same size to me their is no differents. Some of the HC heads have smaller combustion chambers to up the compression. C8OE B heads are listed 67.1 to 70.1 volume. C6AE U 67.1 to 70.1. Most are 71.1 to74.2s Old school HP heads. can be as small as 59.7 to 62.1 (60 352HP heads the screaming eagle of FE heads to me and then their are the 63 6Vs)(but on the other hand small volume is not a good thing). A little port , port matching, and polishing will bring the more common heads alive. JMO, Maybe this will sparks some different opinions! |
| 68 390 questions -- Daniel, 05/29/2002
anyone have any idea what kind of power the 68 390 4v motors made stock? also how about the stock valve size in the head for that year? thanks guys talk later Daniel |
| | RE: 68 390 questions -- Joel, 05/29/2002
NHRA has it factored at 325HP. I think Ford rated it at 335HP in the Fairlane, same as the 428CJ <lol>. My shop manual states that the 390 4v in '69 had 2.02 intake and 1.55 exhaust valves. It was probably the same in '68. |
| | | RE: 68 390 questions -- Daniel, 05/31/2002
thanks joel yeah 325 for the cj that is kinda funny thanks again ford on, forever Daniel |
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