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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24209&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>BB Thermostat # ??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jack W, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can anybody tell me what Tstat #C8AE-8594 E  Is for - will fit?<br>Thanks Jack W </blockquote> BB Thermostat # ?? -- Jack W, 03/04/2005
Can anybody tell me what Tstat #C8AE-8594 E Is for - will fit?
Thanks Jack W
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24212&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>is that the thermostat housing #?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>if so, it's for the small thermostat and FE intakes with the small  thermostat hole. </blockquote> is that the thermostat housing #? -- Barry B, 03/04/2005
if so, it's for the small thermostat and FE intakes with the small thermostat hole.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24213&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>That's the # on - FIT 428CJ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jack W, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>That's the correct # <br>Is that correct for a 428 CJ?<br>JW </blockquote> That's the # on - FIT 428CJ? -- Jack W, 03/05/2005
That's the correct #
Is that correct for a 428 CJ?
JW
 yes but only if -- Barry B, 03/05/2005
the boss is drilled out and taped for the vacuum tree, some are not but have the same #.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24226&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: BB Thermostat # ??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Are you sure that's not a C8AE-8594-B?  The C8AE-B fits the 390, 427, and 428CJ engines.  I don't see a C8AE-E in the August 69 book.  And that's the engineering number.  The part number is C4TZ-8592-C. </blockquote> RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Ken, 03/05/2005
Are you sure that's not a C8AE-8594-B? The C8AE-B fits the 390, 427, and 428CJ engines. I don't see a C8AE-E in the August 69 book. And that's the engineering number. The part number is C4TZ-8592-C.
 RE: BB Thermostat Housing -- Ken, 03/05/2005
And that is the water outlet.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24258&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: BB Thermostat # ??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jack W, <i>03/11/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have one fresh out of my bead blaster...<br>#'s are C8AE 8594 E  Clearly an E<br>vacuum switch has C8AE-A (3 prong)<br>What's the best way to test vac on the switch(sensor) off of the car?<br>Mansfield has C8AE-8952-A listed as correct # for T Stat Housing??What does that fit?<br>JW </blockquote> RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Jack W, 03/11/2005
I have one fresh out of my bead blaster...
#'s are C8AE 8594 E Clearly an E
vacuum switch has C8AE-A (3 prong)
What's the best way to test vac on the switch(sensor) off of the car?
Mansfield has C8AE-8952-A listed as correct # for T Stat Housing??What does that fit?
JW
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24260&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: BB Thermostat # ??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken, <i>03/11/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Mansfield has a bit of a problem with some of their part numbers.  If it's not simple dyslexia or y key entry problem then it's a completely made up part number, as far as I can tell.  <br><br>In this case it looks like he has the engineering number prefix and a dyslexic part number suffix.  The part number suffix is 8592 not 8952.  The 428cj T-housing has casting number C8AE-8594-B and part number C4TZ-8592-C.  I see the casting number on my aluminum T-housing on the engine I just brought home today.  I can't tell if it's a B or E suffix.  I don't see the number on the cast iron T-housing on my other engine.  It's in the car so it's hard to see.  I don't see any E suffix in the '75 MPC either.<br><br>The best way to test the vacuum switch is to put it with the T-housing in boiling water and see if it switches the vacuum from one port to the other.  It's in the shop manual.  </blockquote> RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Ken, 03/11/2005
Mansfield has a bit of a problem with some of their part numbers. If it's not simple dyslexia or y key entry problem then it's a completely made up part number, as far as I can tell.

In this case it looks like he has the engineering number prefix and a dyslexic part number suffix. The part number suffix is 8592 not 8952. The 428cj T-housing has casting number C8AE-8594-B and part number C4TZ-8592-C. I see the casting number on my aluminum T-housing on the engine I just brought home today. I can't tell if it's a B or E suffix. I don't see the number on the cast iron T-housing on my other engine. It's in the car so it's hard to see. I don't see any E suffix in the '75 MPC either.

The best way to test the vacuum switch is to put it with the T-housing in boiling water and see if it switches the vacuum from one port to the other. It's in the shop manual.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24271&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: BB Thermostat # ??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jack W, <i>03/13/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey Ken,Pertty funny  on the Mansfield #'s.....<br>I looked in my shop manual & I found only the test (Vacuum Sensor)for it on the car?It showed boiling the thermostat to check for opening up,But I found no bench test(stove) for the vacuum switch?? I tried boiling water with the sensor attached to the Housing & made sure it was all submerged except the Vac ports.....couldn't really tell if it was drawing vac on not.I guess I need more pointers on running the test??AND what do the #'s represent in the book?The # by the vac switch in the 1969 Shop manual is B 3104-A..<br>What is tha number for??<br>JW </blockquote> RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Jack W, 03/13/2005
Hey Ken,Pertty funny on the Mansfield #'s.....
I looked in my shop manual & I found only the test (Vacuum Sensor)for it on the car?It showed boiling the thermostat to check for opening up,But I found no bench test(stove) for the vacuum switch?? I tried boiling water with the sensor attached to the Housing & made sure it was all submerged except the Vac ports.....couldn't really tell if it was drawing vac on not.I guess I need more pointers on running the test??AND what do the #'s represent in the book?The # by the vac switch in the 1969 Shop manual is B 3104-A..
What is tha number for??
JW
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24273&Reply=24209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: BB Thermostat # ??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken, <i>03/13/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I guess you're right.  I probably came up with my own test rather than running the car to a high temperature condition. I determined which vacuum ports are connected at room temperature and then I put it in boiling water to see if it swiched to the other port.  At room temperature, blow into one port at a time and see which one the air comes out of and which one is closed off.  After boiling you might need to attach a piece of hose to the port (so you don't burn your lips) to see if the air now comes out of the port that was closed before.  Only two ports should be connected at one time.  As it cools it should swich back.  Figures 32-35 vacuum schematics in the general ignition service section are also usefull for this.  I believe the center port will be connected to one end port at room temperture and switch to the other end port at boiling temperature.<br>  I think that B3104-A is the illustration number.  A lot of the pictures in the shop manual will show the group number portion of the part number for the parts in the picture.  <br>   </blockquote> RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Ken, 03/13/2005
I guess you're right. I probably came up with my own test rather than running the car to a high temperature condition. I determined which vacuum ports are connected at room temperature and then I put it in boiling water to see if it swiched to the other port. At room temperature, blow into one port at a time and see which one the air comes out of and which one is closed off. After boiling you might need to attach a piece of hose to the port (so you don't burn your lips) to see if the air now comes out of the port that was closed before. Only two ports should be connected at one time. As it cools it should swich back. Figures 32-35 vacuum schematics in the general ignition service section are also usefull for this. I believe the center port will be connected to one end port at room temperture and switch to the other end port at boiling temperature.
I think that B3104-A is the illustration number. A lot of the pictures in the shop manual will show the group number portion of the part number for the parts in the picture.
 RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Jack W, 03/13/2005
Very Good Ken,
I did the blow in the top port & it comes out of the 2nd port.Going to go boiling again......
Thank you very much....Be back later with boiling report.
Jack W
 RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- Ken, 03/13/2005
From the '69 Ford Product line Introduction Manual:

"As long as engine temperature is within normal operating limits, the valve remains in a position that allows manifold vacuum to be transmitted through the valve to the retard diaphragm. But when engine heat rises above a set value, the valve vents the retard diaphragm line to the atmosphere."
 RE: BB Thermostat # ?? -- walt, 04/17/2005
the early big block used a larger themostat,and housing,very late ones used the smaller one that is almost standard to most american manufacturers,i built a plate that fits the smaller therm to the early intakes,and use the smaller thermostat neck,have no probs
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24195&Reply=24195><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>holley 9510 bu bt</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>sidoiler, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi , looking for a pair of holley 9510 bu and bt for my tunnel port, can anyone help? thanks Tom </blockquote> holley 9510 bu bt -- sidoiler, 03/03/2005
Hi , looking for a pair of holley 9510 bu and bt for my tunnel port, can anyone help? thanks Tom
 RE: holley 9510 bu bt -- Royce Peterson, 03/04/2005
I have one of them, think its a BU. Contact me at :

roycegte(at)earthlink(dot)net
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24192&Reply=24192><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>How about a Holley Street Dominator?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Big Dave, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Any experience with those anyone? It's my understanding that it was competition for the Edelbrock streetmaster. </blockquote> How about a Holley Street Dominator? -- Big Dave, 03/03/2005
Any experience with those anyone? It's my understanding that it was competition for the Edelbrock streetmaster.
 RE: How about a Holley Street Dominator? -- giacamo, 03/04/2005
thear not bad i like the strip dominater better.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24217&Reply=24192><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: How about a Holley Street Dominator?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I think it is a pretty good intake. I don't believe Holley ever made a Strip Dominator for the FE.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> RE: How about a Holley Street Dominator? -- Royce Peterson, 03/05/2005
I think it is a pretty good intake. I don't believe Holley ever made a Strip Dominator for the FE.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24220&Reply=24192><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>No Holley Street Dominator for FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ross, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>With some mild plenum work and a little grinding the Street Dom is a great manifold even stock they run great.  For a street car they are good as is up to 428 cid or so.<br><br>However, Royce is right, no FE Strip Dominator, wish they would have though!<br><br> </blockquote> No Holley Street Dominator for FE -- Ross, 03/05/2005
With some mild plenum work and a little grinding the Street Dom is a great manifold even stock they run great. For a street car they are good as is up to 428 cid or so.

However, Royce is right, no FE Strip Dominator, wish they would have though!

 Whoops I meant no STRIP Dom N/M -- Ross, 03/06/2005
N/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24188&Reply=24188><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 oil pans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>richard, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Are there differences between oil pans on the 390GT and other 390's?  Car, truck, etc?  <br><br>Looking for one for my 68 Mustang coupe and have found a clean pan for a good price, but its from a truck (not sure what model).  Will this fit?  Are they all the same or?? </blockquote> 390 oil pans -- richard, 03/03/2005
Are there differences between oil pans on the 390GT and other 390's? Car, truck, etc?

Looking for one for my 68 Mustang coupe and have found a clean pan for a good price, but its from a truck (not sure what model). Will this fit? Are they all the same or??
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24190&Reply=24188><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 oil pans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Big Dave, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The mustang oil pans were a front sump application, the truck pans are rear sump. It may fit, but it will be a pain in the ass to chainge the oil because of the location of the drain plug. I assume this because I had a truck with a 428CJ in it along with the matching oil pan. It took about 10 minutes to remove the plug, and then I had to scrape the excess oil off of the crossmember with about 1 inch clearance. </blockquote> RE: 390 oil pans -- Big Dave, 03/03/2005
The mustang oil pans were a front sump application, the truck pans are rear sump. It may fit, but it will be a pain in the ass to chainge the oil because of the location of the drain plug. I assume this because I had a truck with a 428CJ in it along with the matching oil pan. It took about 10 minutes to remove the plug, and then I had to scrape the excess oil off of the crossmember with about 1 inch clearance.
 RE: 390 oil pans -- R. Hunt, 03/04/2005
All 2WD pickup trucks had front sump pans. An F600 or such with a 391 FT may have had a front, rear or full sump pan depending on what year and decade and application. All FWD trucks had rear sump pans.

Basically the front sump pans can be a problem in how deep the sump is because of 5 quart and 6 quart pans. The 428 in my F100 has a 6 quart pan with a front sump and may not work in a mustang. It is deeper than the 5 quart front sump pan from a 1967 390 that I have as a core. I have compared the two and the difference in sump depth is roughly 3/4 to 1 inch as far as I could tell.

Also, I have seen the plug locations on the left or right rear corners of the sump.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24191&Reply=24188><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 oil pans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Watch for the "dents" for lack of a better word, that you will need to clear the steering linkage. a rear sump truck pan would never work. </blockquote> RE: 390 oil pans -- raycfe, 03/03/2005
Watch for the "dents" for lack of a better word, that you will need to clear the steering linkage. a rear sump truck pan would never work.
 RE: 390 oil pans -- giacamo, 03/03/2005
you nead a frount sump pan. the rear sump pans wer for 4 wheal drives aps and some industrial aps had them, most late model frount sump pans should work in a mustang.....
 Thanks guys! n/m -- richard, 03/04/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24181&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Holley power valve question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Fatblockford, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I think I have blown the power valve in my 750 holley (4160), although I have not inspected it yet. It backfired on me and will not idle any more. I've heard that the power valve is suspect in this situatuation. That carb should have come with a 6.5 powervalve. The car has always ran rich. If I have to replace it, I would like to change the valve if needed, but I can't get it to idle enough to check intake vacuum.  It's a 68 390 with gt heads. Streetmaster intake, solid lifter cam (adv. duration 310, actual 244, with .524 lift), C6 automatic.  If you were going to guess at which powervalve to start with, what would it be?<br>Thanks </blockquote> Holley power valve question -- Fatblockford, 03/03/2005
I think I have blown the power valve in my 750 holley (4160), although I have not inspected it yet. It backfired on me and will not idle any more. I've heard that the power valve is suspect in this situatuation. That carb should have come with a 6.5 powervalve. The car has always ran rich. If I have to replace it, I would like to change the valve if needed, but I can't get it to idle enough to check intake vacuum. It's a 68 390 with gt heads. Streetmaster intake, solid lifter cam (adv. duration 310, actual 244, with .524 lift), C6 automatic. If you were going to guess at which powervalve to start with, what would it be?
Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24185&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>hard to go wrong with a 6.5</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>that's what I run in my CJ w/ a similar cam like yours but a little more lift. </blockquote> hard to go wrong with a 6.5 -- Barry B, 03/03/2005
that's what I run in my CJ w/ a similar cam like yours but a little more lift.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24186&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Fatblockford, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>OK. Thanks for the info.  I'm just now really trying to learn how tune & understand carbs. I've read some on the powervalves and thought a change might do it some good, but if it's good enough for your CJ it should be OK for mine.  <br>Thanks </blockquote> RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5 -- Fatblockford, 03/03/2005
OK. Thanks for the info. I'm just now really trying to learn how tune & understand carbs. I've read some on the powervalves and thought a change might do it some good, but if it's good enough for your CJ it should be OK for mine.
Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24187&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>PV doesn't function at idle.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The idle circuit and the power valve (main metering) are in different circuits.  If you have an otherwise properly functioning carburetor, you can take the power valve completely out, start the car and let it idle.  There will be no difference.<br><br>The only way a PV will affect idle is if your idle is way too high and you are well into the transition circuit.<br><br>I'd look for some debris in the idle airbleeds.  <br><br>Symptoms of a blown power valve are a very rich cruise mixture.<br><br>A 6.5 is a good choice for most streeable apps, if you are going to replace it. </blockquote> PV doesn't function at idle. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/03/2005
The idle circuit and the power valve (main metering) are in different circuits. If you have an otherwise properly functioning carburetor, you can take the power valve completely out, start the car and let it idle. There will be no difference.

The only way a PV will affect idle is if your idle is way too high and you are well into the transition circuit.

I'd look for some debris in the idle airbleeds.

Symptoms of a blown power valve are a very rich cruise mixture.

A 6.5 is a good choice for most streeable apps, if you are going to replace it.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24203&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: PV doesn't function at idle.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>R. Hunt, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>A blown power valve can cause such a rich idle that it can not idle and cause an engine to die. It does not just effect the cruise mixture.  </blockquote> RE: PV doesn't function at idle. -- R. Hunt, 03/04/2005
A blown power valve can cause such a rich idle that it can not idle and cause an engine to die. It does not just effect the cruise mixture.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24207&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>You might want to let Holley know about this.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Seems they don't know how their own carbs work and will have to re-write their technical literature. </blockquote> You might want to let Holley know about this. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/04/2005
Seems they don't know how their own carbs work and will have to re-write their technical literature.
 when the PV blows -- Barry B, 03/04/2005
the fuel flows in a direction never designed, from out of the main bowl, through the ruptured PV diaphragm and down the PV vacuum port under the carb. into the intake.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24221&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>PV doesnt function at idle, but you are both right</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ross, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>If its blown, it'll flood the chamber with fuel and run rich.<br><br>However, no air passes the booster at idle, so if its working properly, even the highest of values wont add fuel at idle.<br><br>Common misunderstanding </blockquote> PV doesnt function at idle, but you are both right -- Ross, 03/05/2005
If its blown, it'll flood the chamber with fuel and run rich.

However, no air passes the booster at idle, so if its working properly, even the highest of values wont add fuel at idle.

Common misunderstanding
 RE: PV doesnt function at idle, but you are both right -- Fatblockford, 03/07/2005
OK...well, looks like I'll have to pull the power valve to find out for sure. I'll let you guys know what I find.
 RE: PV doesnt function at idle, but you are both right -- R. Hunt, 03/07/2005
I didn't mean to cause anyone think that the power valve uses the idle circuit in any way. I just wanted to point out that the power valve can affect idle and cruise mixtures and not just the cruise mixture.

If your carburetor has a blown power valve, the unregulated fuel flows through the vacuum passage right into the intake as was stated. I have had both blown power valves and bad power valve gasket installations cause the unregulated fuel flow. Depending on the quantity of unregualted fuel flow, the engine may or may not even idle because of it.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24314&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Fatblockford, <i>03/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I noticed the holley offers a Standard Flow and a High Flow 6.5 power valve.   Any opinions on the difference between these two valves? </blockquote> RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5 -- Fatblockford, 03/17/2005
I noticed the holley offers a Standard Flow and a High Flow 6.5 power valve. Any opinions on the difference between these two valves?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24320&Reply=24181><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Standard is what you want.  The high flows are for use with alcohol and when using a power valve channel restriction of over .100". <br> </blockquote> RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5 -- Barry B, 03/18/2005
Standard is what you want. The high flows are for use with alcohol and when using a power valve channel restriction of over .100".
 RE: hard to go wrong with a 6.5 -- Fatblockford, 03/18/2005
OK...thanks Barry.
 RE: Holley power valve question -- walt, 04/18/2005
the bad power valve would make it run very rich,at an idle,you still should have a decent vacuum,and you gas milage will suck,if the diafram on the valve is ruptured,or you use the wrong gasket on the valve,you will dump raw fuel in the intake,also check your base plate to see that it didn't warp
 RE: Holley power valve question -- walt, 04/18/2005
the bad power valve would make it run very rich,at an idle,you still should have a decent vacuum,and you gas milage will suck,if the diafram on the valve is ruptured,or you use the wrong gasket on the valve,you will dump raw fuel in the intake,also check your base plate to see that it didn't warp.the power vavlve closes at high vacuum(idle),cruising'if your idle is set too high,will cause a rich run,because the boosters are starting to feed the system,and the bad valve is feeding fuel also
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24177&Reply=24177><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>building a 360 into a 390 GT</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Paul G., <i>03/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am going to be starting on rebuilding an engine for my 71 Ranger XLT that I am restoreing. I have a stock original 71 360 block. I am going to check were and bore if needed. I have a fresh 390 GT crank and 67 S code 390 GT heads and 428 rods with floating pins and a 390 GT intake. I am on kind of a budget but looking for ideas of cam and pistons that i should use. also a good carb setup. I am just looking for a fun street show truck, may pull a trailer once in a while with it. </blockquote> building a 360 into a 390 GT -- Paul G., 03/02/2005
I am going to be starting on rebuilding an engine for my 71 Ranger XLT that I am restoreing. I have a stock original 71 360 block. I am going to check were and bore if needed. I have a fresh 390 GT crank and 67 S code 390 GT heads and 428 rods with floating pins and a 390 GT intake. I am on kind of a budget but looking for ideas of cam and pistons that i should use. also a good carb setup. I am just looking for a fun street show truck, may pull a trailer once in a while with it.
 RE: building a 360 into a 390 GT -- walt, 04/17/2005
bit of info,ford used 390 gt pistons in the 360 to deplete the stock,the 360/390 4v pistons are identical.even in wieght,also another little known fact,the 390 low compression light duty truck engine,used the 410 piston,wich the compression hieght was 0.200 lower,lower the comp to 8.5
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24623&Reply=24177><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: building a 360 into a 390 GT</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>04/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>you will problie haft to rebore?  the 360 stroke may of left a line to cleanup to go to the 390 i,d buy new pistones fed flatops cast the rest i,d use comp cams cam package 365h or 370h one pice spring retainers and molly pushrods if on a buget i,d use the stock 4v intake 600 carb and newer eletronic ign. </blockquote> RE: building a 360 into a 390 GT -- giacamo, 04/17/2005
you will problie haft to rebore? the 360 stroke may of left a line to cleanup to go to the 390 i,d buy new pistones fed flatops cast the rest i,d use comp cams cam package 365h or 370h one pice spring retainers and molly pushrods if on a buget i,d use the stock 4v intake 600 carb and newer eletronic ign.
 RE: building a 360 into a 390 GT -- walt, 04/30/2005
yep,i had to go over size,on the block,but we used the pistons on an egine that was a 390 originaly,was a little loose ,but the dude woundn't listen,and was cheap.damn thing runs strong,and no blow by or smoke!!,go figure?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24171&Reply=24171><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>1969 Mach 1 carburetor</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tom O, <i>03/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Could someone advise me as to the correct carb for a 69 390 mustang.  My car currently has a holly carb with manual choke sitting on an adapter plate. </blockquote> 1969 Mach 1 carburetor -- Tom O, 03/02/2005
Could someone advise me as to the correct carb for a 69 390 mustang. My car currently has a holly carb with manual choke sitting on an adapter plate.
 If originally equipped with automatic trans., read this... -- Mr F, 03/02/2005
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12646&Reply=12646
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24189&Reply=24171><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 1969 Mach 1 carburetor</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tom O, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I've determined the correct carb to be a 4300 Holley (Autolite). Is ID # C9ZF-F correct for that specific year?  Does anyone have an opinion on this carb versus a holley 600.  I would like to stay origional but not at the sake of a tempermental carb.   </blockquote> RE: 1969 Mach 1 carburetor -- Tom O, 03/03/2005
I've determined the correct carb to be a 4300 Holley (Autolite). Is ID # C9ZF-F correct for that specific year? Does anyone have an opinion on this carb versus a holley 600. I would like to stay origional but not at the sake of a tempermental carb.
 Two things: (1) 4300 is a Ford-Autolite carb, not 'Holley'. See.. -- Mr F, 03/04/2005
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=67257&Reply=67174
 (2) C9ZF-F info was in my first response. Follow the link. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/04/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24167&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>DAVE HOLT, <i>03/01/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can anyone tell me what CI this motor is ? Cant find the number in my books.<br>Thanks Dave   </blockquote> C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- DAVE HOLT, 03/01/2005
Can anyone tell me what CI this motor is ? Cant find the number in my books.
Thanks Dave
 RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Big Dave, 03/02/2005
could you specify its location. love to help, but I don't know where its at.
 RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Tony P., 03/02/2005
Dave, One of my books shows it as a 63-64 390, but to make sure you must measure the bore and stroke
4.00 x 3.50 = 352
4.05 x 3.78 = 390
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24172&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>DAVE HOLT, <i>03/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7957861363">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7957861363</a> </blockquote> RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- DAVE HOLT, 03/02/2005
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7957861363
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24173&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Big Dave, <i>03/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>THAT'S A 427 CAMMER BLOCK!! It probably was not finished when it was cast. The front of the block is cast for the timing set up (it has a timing chain about 7 feet long). It's worth a helluva lot more than 500 dollars! </blockquote> RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Big Dave, 03/02/2005
THAT'S A 427 CAMMER BLOCK!! It probably was not finished when it was cast. The front of the block is cast for the timing set up (it has a timing chain about 7 feet long). It's worth a helluva lot more than 500 dollars!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24175&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hmmm, looks like a regular center oiler to me.  Can anyone read the date code?  Funny how the calipers read 4.229" with all that bore wear, maybe a bored out 406? </blockquote> RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Barry B, 03/02/2005
Hmmm, looks like a regular center oiler to me. Can anyone read the date code? Funny how the calipers read 4.229" with all that bore wear, maybe a bored out 406?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24176&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Davy Gurley, <i>03/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>no crossbolts </blockquote> RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Davy Gurley, 03/02/2005
no crossbolts
 RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Big Dave, 03/02/2005
I'm sorry, I feel like an idiot. I realized that the casting numbers for the block would probably have an X in the place of the A. The X was used to denote the high performance racing applications, such as tunnel port heads/intakes and SOHC engines. Sorry.
 RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- walt, 04/26/2005
the cammer block was a side oiler with an extra boss in the back of the block for oil return from the heads,that boss wasdrilled for the oil returns from the cammer heads,not he reg 427,the block was intro in 1965
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24194&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>nouthing special </blockquote> RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- giacamo, 03/03/2005
nouthing special
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24199&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: awww, you're teasing us</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>for real, what is it?  Has the triple webs plus the nubbs, large diagonal oil passage, chamfered mains, thick cyl. walls, solid lifter top oiler block w/ pressure relief.  Early 406?  Wish you make out the second digit in the date code.  Even so, a pretty early block for the alternator boss. </blockquote> RE: awww, you're teasing us -- Barry B, 03/04/2005
for real, what is it? Has the triple webs plus the nubbs, large diagonal oil passage, chamfered mains, thick cyl. walls, solid lifter top oiler block w/ pressure relief. Early 406? Wish you make out the second digit in the date code. Even so, a pretty early block for the alternator boss.
 Truck Block? -- Big Dave, 03/04/2005
I'm thinking it may be a 391 truck block. The truck blocks of the late 60's were cast partially from 427 molds, giving them reenforcement webbing and undrilled bosses for crossbolts. The blocks were very strong, which may explain the huge overbore. If it is in fact a truck block, I think it's about done being under the hood of a car, and time to be a boat anchor.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24214&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Glenn, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Date code looks like 3E29 from the pic on the ad. Might be a 406 service block possibly but thought they would have the HP designation on and in the block like the early HP blocks. I'm pretty sure the HP was cast into the block until 64 but not positive. It does have thick walls though. I have a C3-D 406 block with one side 427 wallcores and the other std 406...cruel...LOL, G. </blockquote> RE: C3AE-H for sale on E-Bay -- Glenn, 03/05/2005
Date code looks like 3E29 from the pic on the ad. Might be a 406 service block possibly but thought they would have the HP designation on and in the block like the early HP blocks. I'm pretty sure the HP was cast into the block until 64 but not positive. It does have thick walls though. I have a C3-D 406 block with one side 427 wallcores and the other std 406...cruel...LOL, G.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24216&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Nothing special</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Looks like an ordinary 390 block that has been bored beyond its useful linits.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Nothing special -- Royce Peterson, 03/05/2005
Looks like an ordinary 390 block that has been bored beyond its useful linits.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24218&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Nothing special</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/05/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>but what about the triple webs, bigger oil holes, chamfers on #'s 2 & 4, pressure relief valve and solid lifters, that's no standard 390, maybe a police block, were they that thick too? </blockquote> RE: Nothing special -- Barry B, 03/05/2005
but what about the triple webs, bigger oil holes, chamfers on #'s 2 & 4, pressure relief valve and solid lifters, that's no standard 390, maybe a police block, were they that thick too?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24746&Reply=24167><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Nothing special</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>04/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>might have a late 406 block?but check this i got a 428 service block that has the extra webs in the mains,plus the bosses for cross bolt mainsand the fly end has the boss for the side oiler relief valve,but not the gallery for it,shows a c8me,what the shirt block </blockquote> RE: Nothing special -- walt, 04/26/2005
might have a late 406 block?but check this i got a 428 service block that has the extra webs in the mains,plus the bosses for cross bolt mainsand the fly end has the boss for the side oiler relief valve,but not the gallery for it,shows a c8me,what the shirt block
 RE: Nothing special -- walt, 04/26/2005
here's another thing,a friend of mine worked at the dearborn engine plant,told me that at times when they could not get the 390 blocks to meet prod;they took blocks from the 428 's to meet prod bored them as 390,also told me that they bored the 427.s as 390 heavvy duty.or agri/industrials,ups used to order 427's bored as 390,cross bolt mains,screw in freeze plugs,i thought that he was full of crap when a mechanic friend of mine told me they were scrapping one,i went to see it,true story,gone before i could get a truck to haul it
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24162&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Edelbrock Streetmaster?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Big Dave, <i>03/01/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Has anyone had anyexperience with an Edelbrock Streetmaster? I really want to put one on my 390 and wanted to know how they work out. </blockquote> Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- Big Dave, 03/01/2005
Has anyone had anyexperience with an Edelbrock Streetmaster? I really want to put one on my 390 and wanted to know how they work out.
 RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- 64 Bolt, 03/01/2005
They work awesome in my experience. I ran one in my old 67 Shorty, with a stock 390, headers and a holley 1850 (600). It ran great, and the intake looked really nostalgic. Good low end too, just as well as the Offy dual plane on my current ride.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24179&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Edelbrock Corkmaster</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Unless you have a 2V intake the Streetmaster will slow your car down. It was made for gas mileage and reduced weight, not performance.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Edelbrock Corkmaster -- Royce Peterson, 03/03/2005
Unless you have a 2V intake the Streetmaster will slow your car down. It was made for gas mileage and reduced weight, not performance.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25370&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Edelbrock SP2P?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>07/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Royce, aren't you talking about the SP2P that E'brock offered for a few years.  It was in the seventies and it was designed for exactly what you described.  It was trully a non-performance piece of aluminum junk.  The SP2P was offered for a variety of engines.<br><br>The Streetmaster was a "Do-it-Yourself" port matching job.  It even came with instructions in the box about how to port match your intake to the heads.  It was a single plane and depending upon all the other necessary combination of parts, could work easily into the low 6,000 rpms.<br><br>I port matched one to my CJ heads and found it worked very well except that I developed a leak between the water passage and #1 port.  I think it was my fault but at the time I blamed the narrow lip between the port/water passage.  Of course, I immediately removed it and reinstalled my tried and true PI intake.  But I have to say that in the short time I drove the car with that intake, it sure felt strong and the cam I was running at the time was a 6,200 max Schneider solid lifter.  The CJ pulled very hard to that red line and it just felt great.  But I never got an actual run at the drag strip to get the true comparison.  <br><br>A good friend of mine,  Jerry Pruitt, Yakima, WA, did very well in Super Stock competition, '64 Galaxie Custom with legal 352.  His intake of choice?  The Edelbrock Streetmaster.  He ported/modified it greatly but it's his opinion that the Edelbrock Streetmaster is a gem if "worked" properly.  <br><br>Right out of the box, the Streemaster does have small runner ports, i.e., similar to the -S- cast iron intake, the C7ZX dual four intake and even the C7AE PI intake.   But the potential is there for a great performance intake.  I don't believe the Streetmaster was ever intended as a mileage maker supposedly like the SP2P.<br><br>BTW, Edelbrock will still send you those Streetmaster porting instructions if you request them. </blockquote> RE: Edelbrock SP2P? -- McQ, 07/21/2005
Royce, aren't you talking about the SP2P that E'brock offered for a few years. It was in the seventies and it was designed for exactly what you described. It was trully a non-performance piece of aluminum junk. The SP2P was offered for a variety of engines.

The Streetmaster was a "Do-it-Yourself" port matching job. It even came with instructions in the box about how to port match your intake to the heads. It was a single plane and depending upon all the other necessary combination of parts, could work easily into the low 6,000 rpms.

I port matched one to my CJ heads and found it worked very well except that I developed a leak between the water passage and #1 port. I think it was my fault but at the time I blamed the narrow lip between the port/water passage. Of course, I immediately removed it and reinstalled my tried and true PI intake. But I have to say that in the short time I drove the car with that intake, it sure felt strong and the cam I was running at the time was a 6,200 max Schneider solid lifter. The CJ pulled very hard to that red line and it just felt great. But I never got an actual run at the drag strip to get the true comparison.

A good friend of mine, Jerry Pruitt, Yakima, WA, did very well in Super Stock competition, '64 Galaxie Custom with legal 352. His intake of choice? The Edelbrock Streetmaster. He ported/modified it greatly but it's his opinion that the Edelbrock Streetmaster is a gem if "worked" properly.

Right out of the box, the Streemaster does have small runner ports, i.e., similar to the -S- cast iron intake, the C7ZX dual four intake and even the C7AE PI intake. But the potential is there for a great performance intake. I don't believe the Streetmaster was ever intended as a mileage maker supposedly like the SP2P.

BTW, Edelbrock will still send you those Streetmaster porting instructions if you request them.
 RE: Edelbrock SP2P? -- walt, 07/21/2005
if you compare the sp2p chevy to ford ,the chevy design was performance orientated,and did work good for them chev"s that's why i always try to run the ford oem hp manifoldsthey worked
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24180&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Fatblockford, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have one on my 67 mustang. It has a 68 390 GT engine.  The heads have had some work and the cam is fairly aggressive.  Also has a 750 holley.  My dad used it before I did.  We've both been happy with it fo years now. </blockquote> RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- Fatblockford, 03/03/2005
I have one on my 67 mustang. It has a 68 390 GT engine. The heads have had some work and the cam is fairly aggressive. Also has a 750 holley. My dad used it before I did. We've both been happy with it fo years now.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24182&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>64 Bolt, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>How was a single plane, staright runner intake designed for economy. Have you seen one? I'll promise you that mine ran better than any 2 barrell setup, or 390gt manifold. In fact I'll trade you my offy 360 degree dual plane that I currently run for that streetmaster right now. </blockquote> RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- 64 Bolt, 03/03/2005
How was a single plane, staright runner intake designed for economy. Have you seen one? I'll promise you that mine ran better than any 2 barrell setup, or 390gt manifold. In fact I'll trade you my offy 360 degree dual plane that I currently run for that streetmaster right now.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24184&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Fatblockford, <i>03/03/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'll have to agree with 64 Bolt.   I've got 75 F100 w/ a 360 needing restored. I'd stick a streetmaster on it in a heartbeat! </blockquote> RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- Fatblockford, 03/03/2005
I'll have to agree with 64 Bolt. I've got 75 F100 w/ a 360 needing restored. I'd stick a streetmaster on it in a heartbeat!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24204&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>It's probably OK for a 352 / 360 application.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I don't have anything smaller than 430 cubic inches so I need intake manifolds with runners bigger than the end of my thumb. All my heads are eithe Cobra Jet or Edelbrock with a port much larger than the Streetmaster's.  But on a small inch motor like a 360 or a 352 it is probably the right manifold. Particularly if outfitted with late FE emissions type heads like the C8AE-H or D2TE-A.<br><br>The Streetmaster was designed during the 1970's gas crunch when everyone was panicking about 75 cent a gallon gas. I believe it was rated from idle to 5000 RPM as the recommended operating range. It slowed down a GT 390 Mustang I used to have. A Performer RPM was significantly better on that engine.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> It's probably OK for a 352 / 360 application. -- Royce Peterson, 03/04/2005
I don't have anything smaller than 430 cubic inches so I need intake manifolds with runners bigger than the end of my thumb. All my heads are eithe Cobra Jet or Edelbrock with a port much larger than the Streetmaster's. But on a small inch motor like a 360 or a 352 it is probably the right manifold. Particularly if outfitted with late FE emissions type heads like the C8AE-H or D2TE-A.

The Streetmaster was designed during the 1970's gas crunch when everyone was panicking about 75 cent a gallon gas. I believe it was rated from idle to 5000 RPM as the recommended operating range. It slowed down a GT 390 Mustang I used to have. A Performer RPM was significantly better on that engine.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24206&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I have a 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Big Dave, <i>03/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 390 with C1AE-A heads. (Actually, its a 360 that I am converting to a 390.)Compression is gonna be about 9.4 to 1. I just can't afford a performer RPM, and even then, I don't know how well it would work with the heads I have.  </blockquote> I have a 390 -- Big Dave, 03/04/2005
I have a 390 with C1AE-A heads. (Actually, its a 360 that I am converting to a 390.)Compression is gonna be about 9.4 to 1. I just can't afford a performer RPM, and even then, I don't know how well it would work with the heads I have.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24925&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Re: i have 67 fast back 390 gt</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>MIKE, <i>05/11/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I did try the streetmaster intake and 3 hours later i was up set!<br>  cause i loose the original engine torque and i didnt notice any improvement on torque or hp it feel like i have a 5. Slow on my fastback, if any one need this intake just letme know probably works in different engine setups.  </blockquote> Re: i have 67 fast back 390 gt -- MIKE, 05/11/2005
I did try the streetmaster intake and 3 hours later i was up set!
cause i loose the original engine torque and i didnt notice any improvement on torque or hp it feel like i have a 5. Slow on my fastback, if any one need this intake just letme know probably works in different engine setups.
 RE: Re: i have 67 fast back 390 gt -- walt, 05/12/2005
i have found that the stock ford,med riser.428 cj,pi worked so good that outside suppliers didn't even offer a replacement,until ford quit servicing them,or they were very hard to find,also we did hae a prob with the stock 390 valve sizes,lacked high,rpm pull,we would cut the exhaust to the 406/428 cj sizehelped top end but didn't lose the bottom end torque,also works great in my 4wd f 250 pickup truck
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25363&Reply=24162><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Raceman351W, <i>07/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>My old man and I have one on our 351W It is awsome with the 292 cam and ported heads it hauls ass. The engine is out of a 72 mach 1 And it is in our 53 ford pickup </blockquote> RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- Raceman351W, 07/20/2005
My old man and I have one on our 351W It is awsome with the 292 cam and ported heads it hauls ass. The engine is out of a 72 mach 1 And it is in our 53 ford pickup
 RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- walt, 07/21/2005
i found a bunch of junk maifolds for the ford out there,big and small block,i would.nt put them on my mower ie the sp2p for the 351,400 m by edelbrock,that offy dual runner,if them manifold makers put as much reasearch in the ford motors as they did them chevies,same for the cam makers too,these ford would have been a lot easier to build and cheaper for part prices
 RE: Edelbrock Streetmaster? -- walt, 07/21/2005
raceman,i might have a friend that might be wantining to unlaod a 351,w,ported heads screwins with guides,and a c7fe cam to boot,this hauled hay in a 68 cougar,,and would run/shift 7000 plus,would bump mid,low 12;s
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24155&Reply=24155><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Ford Transmission type</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>02/28/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have the casting on the bell housing and am hoping this can tell me the year/type of transmission.  <br><br>C5AP7006A<br><br>Thanks in advance for the help </blockquote> Ford Transmission type -- Bob S., 02/28/2005
I have the casting on the bell housing and am hoping this can tell me the year/type of transmission.

C5AP7006A

Thanks in advance for the help
 RE: Ford Transmission type -- Barry B, 02/28/2005
It's a '65+ Cruise-O-Matic, that's about all I can tell without the tag.
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