Skip Navigation Links.
 |  Loose wrist pin advice -- Ryan Hodges, 02/24/2005
I have a '65 f-250 with a 352 in it. I have discovered that the motor has a loose wrist pin. Should I take the motor apart to fix it, or just drive it and hope for the best?
Thanks |
|  | RE: Loose wrist pin advice -- raycfe, 02/24/2005
Start looking for a 390. the pin could go thru a cylinder wall. Just my 2 cents |
| |  | RE: Loose wrist pin advice -- giacamo, 02/24/2005
if your rist pin is that loose it,s maybe time for a rebild? |
| | Question.... -- John, 02/25/2005
If you havn't taken the engine apart, how can you be sure the wrist pin is loose? Lots of things can sound the same in a running engine, such as various valve noises. But assuming you are sure, how is it loose? If a cir-clip came out, cylinder wall scoring will occur rapidly and blue smoke will be evident, and as above.....damage to teh water jacket may occur. But that's not really loose. If the pin is loose with respect to the piston, eventually something will give and things could get really bad. If it's loose with respect to the rod, well then....things could get even worse. Basically, internal engine noise are at the least, a sign really awful things are about to happen, if they havn't already. I would bite the bullet, take it apart and then decide on wether you can do a cheapy rebuild or not. If not, I agree with the above...move up to a 390. |
| |  | RE: Question.... -- Ryan Hodges, 02/26/2005
I think it is a wrist pin problem. I have replaced the lifters, pushrods, and the rocker shaft assemblies. The truck has been making the noise ever since I have owned it. It has been running like this for over two years. If it is a wrist pin problem would'nt I have had a catastrophic failure by now ? I am stumped!
|
| | | | RE: Question.... -- giacamo, 02/26/2005
maybe it,s the fuel pump sometimes thay make a arful noise and sound like the rods or ristpins? |
| | | | | Inexpensive check -- John, 02/26/2005
Rod bearings can go to the point the "hammering" starts. Lots of things make odd noises. A cheap way to investigate is to remove the oil pan and check for loose rods, oil pump, etc. Only costs you a new gasket and some elbow grease. |
| | | | | | RE: Inexpensive check -- Ryan Hodges, 02/26/2005
Thanks for all the advice. |
| | RE: Loose wrist pin advice -- Gary, 02/27/2005
I have a 1964 390 .It had a knock that sounded terible at low rpm the knock (tinny) like hitting oil pan with hammer higher rpm it sounded rod bearings were gone.When i broke down the engine i dscovered 3 wrist pins were bad and rod bearings showed evidence of wear also. Good luck
Gary |
| 427 reverse rotation crank -- Big Dave, 02/23/2005
Does anyone know if a 427 reverse rotation crank will work in a normal rotation motor? If so, is there anything that needs to be done? |
| Anyone know a good FE builder in San Francisco Bay -- Justin G, 02/22/2005
I am looking for a local builder to build me a nice streetable 390 for a 67 Fastback. Anyone know people who know FE's in the area?
Thanks |
| 390-c6 -- bill, 02/22/2005
trans wont go into gear until engine warms up. will always go into reverse, but not drive. can it be fixed without removal? |
| | RE: 390-c6 -- Big Dave, 02/28/2005
I'm not sure, really. But if it's a high mileage unit, you might want to rebuild it, and replace the torque converter. |
| roller rockers -- Gary, 02/21/2005
Is there any disadvantages to converting a fe 390 head over to roller rockers? The motor had over 150,000 miles.Do they (rockers) wear out? I have been told it adds some horse but unsure how much. The cost is $275. is resonable? |
| | RE: Disadvantages? Yes, cost. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/22/2005
There are reasons to fit roller rockers such as high spring pressure, and fighting for every last drop of horsepower. It's hard to justify the cost for an engine that doesn't need them. As to the claims of added horsepower...only on the right engine and even then it's very slight. In your case, the power added would be within a dyno's margin of error and, therefore, wouldn't be measurable. Roller rockers are more of a durability enhancement for high-rpm use than a power adder.
And everything mechanical will wear. You can only reduce friction, not eliminate it. |
| | | RE: Disadvantages? Yes, cost. -- gary, 02/22/2005
thanks for the insight. |
| | | | Surpised ! -- John, 02/22/2005
Sometime in the last few years, I read a letter in the Professor Overdrive column of the Summitt Racing catalog that asked about fitting roller rockers to a fleet of work-trucks. The answer surprised me. Basically, the answer was that durability was a concern and that they wouldn't last up to high mileage. I think the estimate of 35,000 miles was in there, but can't remember for sure. I found it surprising as roller rockers are designed to reduce side loading of the valve stems (and of course, that means less friction and consequently a marginal increase in HP). If they are intended to reduce wear, why would they design a roller rocker that wears out so prematurely? An oil pan full of rocker needle bearings just can't be a good thing. I've never used them, so I can't speak from experience. I would be pleased to hear from those who have and what endurance they found. |
| | | | | RE: I recall that issue. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/23/2005
He had an initial reply and had a follow up in the next month's issue because, well...he was all messed up on about everything.
How long a rocker lasts is a function of manufacturing and user installation. In the early years (like the 60s and early 70s), aluminum roller rockers were not very well made and had limited life. They were prone to cracking due to cyclic fatigue. Alloys and manufacturing processes have improved to the point where a quality roller rocker will have the same endurance as a traditional stamped steel rocker.
But the real issue he was addressing was the return on investment. The reduction in friction (and for FE rollers, there are the full rollers and the ones with bushed fulcrums) is very minor and would never return the investment even in fleet use. It's also doubful that the other benefit -reduction in valve side loading- has any statistically significant return either. Sure, you can proove both of these things are absolutes but whether they're worth the expense is the real question.
Would I use rollers with a big cam and high spring pressure (like 180 on the seat)? No doubt about it...yes. Would I use them on a fairly stock engine? Naw. There are plenty of other easy to find rat holes to throw money down. |
| | | | | | I don't recall that follow-up -- John, 02/23/2005
So how did the professor lecture his way out of that one? It seemed an odd thing to say....a friction reducing gadget wearing out long before the stock higher friction device. Only other thing I can say is stick to the old KISS principle whenever possible. I use Crane solid lifters, Crane pushrods, Crane adj rockers and Crane valve spring retainers, clips and double springs. Also Harland Sharpe single hole shafts and FPP Rocker stands and FPP spacers vs the springs. A very simple setup. Works for me. I'm not happy with the positive valve seals though, but the rest of the system is very simple and reliable. |
| | Radical Solids = shorter life -- Wayne K., 02/25/2005
I conclude that a set of roller rockers would last much longer with an engine using a mild hydraulic camshaft & single valve springs as opposed to say the same type of engine using a solid .600"+ cam running roller tip abusing .027" valve lash and double valve springs.
The 416 I'm building will have the Erson rollers and that .027" lash / .600" cam. I don't expect 100,000 miles out of anything...
Wayne K.
|
| side oiler technology question -- don, 02/21/2005
Just curious. Does anyone know if Ford used the side oiler technology on anything other than the 427 blocks? |
| | RE: side oiler technology question -- Barry B, 02/22/2005
right off the top of my head I know the Y-block was a side oiler. |
| F-100 electrical problem -- 64 Bolt, 02/20/2005
I have a 1970 F100 w/390, and new battery dead overnight. Alternator tested bad as it produced almost 20 volts at idle rpm. replaced it and now the truck wont fire while trying to jump it, it does turn over. The battery gets hot and the solenoid to starter wire extremely hot (I seen sparks once). With the key in the ignition position the coil wire has 12 volts. Could the alternator have fried something. I have been messing with it all day and am getting frustrated. . . HElp! |
| s tube/heat shield -- joe, 02/20/2005
Does anyone know a good source to locate an s tube and heat shield for a 69 428 cj? |
| | RE: s tube/heat shield -- raycfe, 02/20/2005
Try Mansfield Mustangs....Mansfield, Mass |
| fe(427) engine swap to fox body -- john, 02/19/2005
I have found the oil pan but I cannot find anyone who makes headers for this conversion. I could have motor mounts fabbed, but if they are available somewhere I'd just as soon buy them. If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it. Also if anyone knows the flow numbers on stock medium riser heads I'd like to know that as well.
thanks, John |
| | RE: fe(427) engine swap to fox body -- jerry mccoy, 02/20/2005
i was thinking of using cast shorty headers. |
| | | RE: fe(427) engine swap to fox body -- john, 02/21/2005
If you can do this successfully let me know how to make it happen. |
|