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 |  brake booster vs valve cover -- Bob Wilson, 02/07/2005
I have a 63 Galaxie with a 428 and power brakes. I have a set of tall Cobra valve covers I would like to use but the brake booster is in the way. I just need to move it over 1 to 2 in. Help |
|  | No easy answer if you want to use a stock booster. [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/08/2005
n/m |
 | tail pipes mustang-shelby -- Brian Shear, 02/06/2005
are the tail pipes on a 1969 mustang with 428 the same as a shelby? Thank you B |
|  | RE: tail pipes mustang-shelby -- raycfe, 02/06/2005
They should be different where they connect to the cast shelby housing that goes thru the rear valance. They did have different ford part numbers |
| | No...CJ-equipped Mustangs had integral, 'dual quad' tips.[n/m] -- Mr F, 02/08/2005
n/m |
| 428 CJ Thermostat Quandry -- Jack W, 02/05/2005
My 69 Has a C-6.What is the correct T Stat application for this car.Does this car require the Vac Tee in the T Stat housing?
This was originally a No Air car,But it has been added-Nicely...............
What's what for this thing??
Thanks JW |
| 390GT Intake Manifold Fitting -- Curtis M. Vickery, 02/05/2005
Dear Colleagues:
I'm redoing a '68 390GT Cougar XR7 and am missing one intake manifold fitting. It connects the steel U-Tube vacuum conduit to the intake manifold on the engine front. It is an elbow fitting with sizes 1/2-inch inverted flair (connects to the U-Tube) and 3/8 MPT pipe thread (connects to the manifold). Where can one find this fitting? Pease advise. Thanks very much.
Sincerely,
Curtis M. Vickery
Duncan, OK |
| | RE: 390GT Intake Manifold Fitting -- Jack W, 02/05/2005
www.mansfieldmustang.com
Check out this website.He has good part #'s & Pics
They are 428 CJ/SCJ & GT390 Specialists'
Ask for Bill he can help .
JW |
| timing -- eric, 02/05/2005
ive got a 69 mach 1 s code, recently rebuilt the motor, having different opinions about timing, basically the motor is 30 over, flattops, heads are 3 angle with bigger 2.09, 1.65 valves, performer rpm intake, holley 750, cam is .514, .514 intake and exhaust, that reallt all ive done, i got it about 8 btdc, but its a slug, if i bump it up to say 14 or so it runs stronger but heats up way to much and diesels, did i pick the wrong cam? im getting too much opinions from non experts, any hepl would be appreciated |
| | RE: timing -- Jack W, 02/05/2005
What kind of cam are you using?
Are you using a Comp Cam (Hi Energy Hyd)
IF SO - Those cams are made with a 4 Degree advance in them.(Some of the other cam brands too.)Did you degree the cam in when building this engine?You may need to "spook" the timing chain gear on the crank +4 Degrees if it has the adjustments on it.
OR You could be a tooth or 2 off on your Distributor gear.The list could be endless,But these to items come to mind first.
JW |
| | RE: timing -- peter c, 02/06/2005
ive got a simular 410 motor i just finsihed / w a solid crower cam rpm intake and headers 750 holley vac sec. thought this thing would run really hard / cant even light the tires yet so im really curious about what u come up with/ i know i need to play with timing still and even change my distributor to an msd / i still have a stock points set up with an msd box. i made sure the dist. was limited to the smaller total curve adjustment so i know i can crank up timing / i think my balancer may be off too/ so i got more playing to do/ any help anyone? |
| | RE: timing -- ackjlo, 02/06/2005
That doesnt seem like much timing for anything. Are you sure your timing marks are correct ? |
| | RE: timing -- giacamo, 02/06/2005
i,d adjust the timing wear it runes the best and look for the over heating problems as in maybe old raderater or to lean ect, stock fe dampers lie some times as in the timing marks i have 3 on the self one with 7 deg off your engin sounds like a decent setup and with the timing turned up it will run a littel hot and being new it will run a littel hot theas two things with a old raderater would make the temp run off past it,s cooling capacity. |
| exhaust size? -- BB67FB, 02/05/2005
I am planning on running a full 3" exhaust on my 67 mustang with a 289 with the belief that this size will be beneficial when i install a 427 at later date. Opinions? What size exhaust are you using? Is there such a thing as "too big?" Thanks for all the help! |
|  | Too big -- raycfe, 02/05/2005
n/m |
| | | RE: Too big -- BB67FB, 02/05/2005
Uhhh, ok. Can you expand on this a bit perhaps? What are the drawbacks? |
| | | | | RE: Too big - solution? -- BB67FB, 02/06/2005
so I read the article, and it was a bit confusing, stating one minute that backpressure reduces HP, then stating that too big decreases velocity, reducing HP. My current exhaust isnt much - headers, 3" pipe, and glasspacks, ending about underneath my rear seats. What if i ran 2 1/2" for the rest of the way back? Do you think That would cause enough velocity to increase HP? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! |
| | | | | | RE: Too big - solution? -- Barry B, 02/06/2005
Biggest hp increase would be to get rid of those glasspacks. 3" pipe to turbos to 2 1/2" should be perfect for the 427. Once past the muffs, bigger pipe does not make that much a difference. |
| 180* headers: who makes em? -- Roger, 02/05/2005
who makes these? I want a set for my 390 mustang. |
| unknown engine -- Patrick Toomey, 02/05/2005
I recently purchased a 1966 mustang, but the owner was unsure of which engine was in the car (the original engine had long since been swapped out). the numbers on the top of the engine read:
18726548
0146
C9OE9428-F
L6L35
Does anyone have any information on what these numbers mean? Thanks in advance. |
| Trans tube/dipstick for a 68 390GT -- richard, 02/04/2005
How can you tell the correct tube for the 68 390GT w/C6? I've seen a few different styles of tube from "C6's", the one I bought does not fit.
Should it be bent at the top or near the trans? And is the mounting bracket long or short?
Been told that the correct one is basically straight, with a bend and short (3-4") section above the bend, near the top of the tube. Mounting bracket on the short section above the bend.
Working remote from Austrlaia with sellers in the US and already have one incorrect part. How can the part be verified other then just "knowing" its the right one? Tube I have has no numbers, only on the dipstick, so part numbers don't seem to help on this one.
Stalled restoration waiting on this one! |
| | RE: Trans tube/dipstick for a 68 390GT -- Jack W, 02/05/2005
www.mansfieldmustang.com
Check out this website.He has good part #'s & Pics
They are 428 CJ/SCJ & GT390 Specialists'
Ask for Bill he can help |
| fe bellhousing question -- Fatblockford, 02/04/2005
I have a 67 S code fastback mustang with 68 390 GT motor w/ a C6. I would like to convert the car back to a 4 speed, but I don't know which bellhousing I need. I see several styles on ebay, but don't know which would apply to my car.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks. |
| | RE: There are many that will work. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/04/2005
Only one will be right, but if you're concerned about correct function, peruse this site to id the housings you're looking at: http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/bellhousingidchart.htm
One type of bellhousing you see a lot of on eBay as being for "your car" are the truck bellhousings. They are 3/8" shorter and will only work with the smallblock toploader's deeper pilot. Unless you want problems, avoid any of the housing with the "reinforcing ribs" that run from the trans face to the top of the housing. They have T, like C5T... in the casting number.
The '64 and earlier housing also require a different pull-type starter Bendix and unless you really want some pain, avoid those.
The correct one for your car would take an 11.5" clutch and these housings can be identified by a hump above the trans mount face. The only difference between the earlier and later C6OA 6394 D housings(the most common casting number) is the fork mount pivot. The earlier housings used a pivot with attaching ears on the ends. The forks was secured by a little wire spring. The later used a flat pivot and was secured by a flat spring on the fork itself. You can change the pivot if you get a housing with the wrong one.
So, what's the wrong one? Well, there isn't one, so to speak. If your fork matches the pivot style then you're good to go. So you either change the fork or change the pivot.
There is no difference in bellhousings between big and small input, wide or close ratios. The housings are functionally the same and work with all bigblock (either FE or 385 series) toploaders. The only thing that is sensitive to the trans is the fork. As you could imagine, the small and big inputs require corresponding forks and release bearings.
Hope that helps some. |
| | | RE: There are many that will work. -- Fatblockford, 02/04/2005
Man this helps a ton! I don't have any of the components to do this so maybe I can pickup the fork & bellhousing somewhere. As far as the bellhousing goes, I dont care if it is "matching numbers" correct. I just want it to work when I bolt the thing up. You bring up an additional question I didn't know might be a problem....the only peice I do have is the 4 speed itself. It has RUG on the side and was last behind a 351 windsor (so I was told). If I understand what you are saying, I should be able to use this box but will have to be sure & get the correct fork. Is that correct? |
| | | | RE: This changes things. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/04/2005
That's a smallblock toploader. If you want to use that trans, you'll have to use one of the truck bellhousings or trim down the input shaft pilot to the bigblock length to use a car bellhousing.
It's not a problem to use a truck housing since it is functionally the same but you may have to do some grinding to get an 11.5" clutch to fit. Alternatively, you can also use an 11" diaphragm clutch with an aftermarket flywheel, like Centerforce, to get past that. The truck housing are a lot cheaper than the car housings on eBay since many folks know it's a truck housing regarless of what the seller says.
If you want to use a car housing then you would have to trim the input pilot.
One other thing...make sure the trans is what you think it is. It's not uncommon for the tag to represent only a tag and not how the trans was built when it left the factory. Ford hasn't built a traditional toploader in about 30 years so these things get mixed and matched. |
| | | | | RE: This changes things. -- Fatblockford, 02/04/2005
Again, good info...got any links to some info to identifying exactly what the trans is? |
| | | | | | RE: Same site. Look up trans and tailshaft ID. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/04/2005
But that won't tell you anything beyond what you already know if you just go by the tag. You have to compare the outside clues, including the tailshaft housing since they are different between car lines. |
| | | | | | | RE: Same site. Look up trans and tailshaft ID. -- Fatblockford, 02/04/2005
OK. Thanks Gerry! |
| | | | | | | | RE: Same site. Look up trans and tailshaft ID. -- giacamo, 02/04/2005
ps don,t forget to use the corect offset clutch fork thear easeyer to setup with the corect clutch linkage, |
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