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| Valve cover vs. Master cylinder -- Mike K, 02/03/2005
I have a 427 w/ the shelby finned valve covers. When getting on the gas the motor definitely comes in contact with the MC. Any suggestions or is this a common deal. Thanks, Mike |
| | RE: Valve cover vs. Master cylinder -- giacamo, 02/06/2005
i had this happen with a fe powerd torineo once, i removed the moter mount and made a bracket that limitited the travel of the moter. wen the mount was reinstaled it looked factery i wish i had pitchures of it. some use cabels or chains to limet engin twist. |
| Serpentine belts for FE 390? -- Roger, 02/03/2005
Does any1 know what pulleys/brackets for a serpentine setup will work for a 390 FE motor? Or if any company is doing conversions. i dont want V-belts on my custom motor. Thanks - Roger |
| | Water Pump -- raycfe, 02/04/2005
a reverse rotation water pump may be a problem |
| | RE: Serpentine belts for FE 390? -- jay, 02/08/2005
last year i saw a '61 starliner with a serpentined fe, at our local hot rod show. i didn't get a chance to talk with the owner. this years show is in a couple weeks, i'm hoping to get a chance to meet him. i'll report back with details, i hope. |
| | | RE: Serpentine belts for FE 390? -- Roger, 02/09/2005
cool man, thanks |
| | | | RE: Serpentine belts for FE 390? -- cdailey, 03/21/2005
I swear I saw a trick March setup at George Anderson's shop a while back (www.gessford.com). It was on an *all* aluminum 427ish beastie with a Danny Bee belt drive. IIRC, it went to some fella in Hawaii with a Mustang, a bad itch, and a deep wallet. If anyone knows about such a setup, George probably would. Check out the website for some of his cool projects, if you call, expect him to be quite busy.
I also recall a small site on the Internet (this won't be much help) for a custom setup for the FE. The display was in a pickup. They built rocker setups and other spendy parts, but raced their own stuff. I remember seeing the ad off the Usenet if anyone else recalls.
Chad |
| '67 A code Stang to FE? -- Stangman39, 02/03/2005
Hi all, I'm looking into a '67 GTA A code Stang...have a FE to swap in. As far as brakes, sway bar etc. what else should I be concerned about? Were the shock towers reinforced to handle the FE in the stock S code cars? I didn't think so but just checking.
Thanks, Mike |
| Opinions on sleeved engines? -- BB67FB, 02/03/2005
So I am shopping for a 427 and I see a lot of blocks that have one or more sleeves in them. It seems to me the the integrity of the block would be compromised, and these blocks would not hold up to the same amount of abuse as a unsleeved block. Other opinions? thanks! |
| | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- peter c, 02/03/2005
on the contrary/ sleeve blocks are use in many high output situations/ look at all the hi boost tubo imports/ ls1's / diesel motors/ so on/ if its done correctly it will hold |
| | | RE: Different application but right theory. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/03/2005
I only bring this up since it's hard to say what's being done by a factory using today's production techniques has some application to our old iron. You are absolutely right, Peter, but I just wanted to put the sleeve in perspective for the period of the block.
Before special race blocks, it was common to take a perfectly fine block and sleeve it. The sleeve is far more stable than the cast bore and bore stability is a good way to maintain good, round bores for ring seal.
As long as the job was done right (and how would you know that unless you knew who did the job) a sleeved block is fine. |
| | | | Hang on a second..... -- John, 02/03/2005
Rule of thumb is no more than one sleeve per cylinder bank, ohterwise the strength of the block is compromised. Cylinder walls get thin, and they do a lot to hold the block deck to crank journals together. When a thin cylinder lets go, it cracks around it's circumference, rarely vertically. So there goes your block strength. More disaster will soon follow. And what about "doing it right"? Well, a press fit involving heat doesn't help much if the original cylinder cracks. I've heard of some sort of furnace brazing that sounds OK, but even if it is done, most machine shops proabbly dont' have the capability, plus as for the cost?.....best keep shopping. Of course I could be alltogether wrong.... worng...... |
| | | | | RE: Good point. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/04/2005
But the rule of thumb is specific to the particular casting, the method used to install the sleeves, and the intended use. So, in that regard, it's impossible to apply universally.
A block with thin walls as cast using poorly installed sleeves intended to run a superchager(mechanical or chemical) or very high compression, and in an abusive environment will very likely have problems lifting the deck with adjacent sleeves.
As with anything, there are perfect ways, right ways, and Bubba ways to install sleeves. Gessford machine has a photo series on how they do sleeves. It involves heating the block and putting the sleeve in liquid nitrogen to shrink it. Once the sleeve is in, it is nearly as good as parent metal. As to the brazing method, that’s something that isn’t normally done these days with the advent of race blocks. In the 60s and 70s, it was a common(not all the common, really) to insert brazing wire into grooves in the sleeve, press the sleeve in the bore and stick the block into a very hot oven for a couple of hours. The furnace brazing method made the sleeve nearly as strong as the parent metal but cause tremendous distortions in the block. Obviously, there was a lot of post-heating stress relief and major machining to bring the block back to blueprint specifications. Very expensive and time consuming. But it was sometimes necessary.
The accepted method today is to coat the sleeve with green Loctite and press it in. The down and dirty Bubba method involves just hammering the sleeve down the bore and calling it good.
All of these methods rely on accurate machining to ensure reliability and the best method can be compromised by sloppy work.
You can’t do much about how robust the block and the cylinder walls are. If you have good parent metal in the wall after boring for the sleeve, you could run all eight with sleeves and not see a problem.
Use also has a lot to do with how well a sleeved block will survive. You can twist and lift an unsleeved block’s deck if you run enough cylinder pressure. It happens all the time with the 5.0 guys.
So just because a block has sleeves is no reason to run away. If I wasn't going to beat on the engine unmercifully, I would be fine with multiple sleeves. |
| | | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- giacamo, 02/04/2005
i,v sean cromed sleeves in brand x moters cheavys with good results and seam to last forever i,v always thought about dooing a fe with them but the expence of sleaving a total moter out costs most replacment blocks |
| | | | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- gene simmons, 02/04/2005
Danm my spel cheker stpded workingss |
| | | | | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- giacamo, 02/04/2005
two lassey two u.d ists |
| | | | | | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- gene simmons, 02/05/2005
lol |
| | | | | | | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- BB67FB, 02/05/2005
Thanks to everyone for their help and their humor! so from what i understand, one sleeve per side is ok, but no more than that for FE type engines, including 427, right? |
| | | | | | | | well...... -- John, 02/05/2005
That was what I read once in an FE book, and sounds reasonable to me. Ohters here seem not to be so worried about it. However, the fact is to make room for a sleeve, the cylinders walls get thin. How thin is acceptable? The sleeve doesn't add structural integrity to the block, even with locktight, so you have to weigh things, like.....how much HP are you going to build it for?...and again, what's an acceptable limit. Fact is, if I already owned a 427 cross bolted block, or a thick walled 428 block that needed sleeving, I would do it and hope fro the best. But I wouldn't buy a block knowing it had to be sleeved, or already was sleeved. An article by Rick Voeglin entitled "All in the "FE" Family" mentioned an 8-sleeved block...done so for "greater cylinder wall strength". Sort of blows a hole in what I've ben talking about with sleeving. In a nutshell, there are so many unknown variables with sleeving, that is is hard to know if everything will be OK until the engine proves itself over time. The one thing that is known is that it is not cheap. Therefore, as you are looking for a block, try to find one that doesn't require this. A little bit more money, but hopefully some piece of mind. |
| | | | | | | | RE: Opinions on sleeved engines? -- Francis Thompson, 03/04/2005
I am late to this thread, but I sleeved a marine 427 side oiler. It was done with the heat the block (not much) and liquid nitrogen the sleeve. The block was 060 over bored, and the sleeves put it back to stock size. I have run the engine for over 5 years with no problem. The cam is a Comp 280H cam with edelbrock aluminum heads and torquer intake and 800 edelbrock carb. I love my engine... |
| | One sleeve? How about all eight! Check this out. -- John Bednorz, 02/09/2005
There's a project on the 332-428 FE forum whereby they are putting eight sleeves in a 390 block so they can bore it out as much as a 427. They are calling it the "poor man's 427" project.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182
Do a search for "Poor man's 427".
Wait'll you see the picture of the block just before the sleeves are put in. Boy does it look weird! |
| 427? -- johnboy, 02/01/2005
I recently aquired a FE block out of a scrap pile was told it used to run an irrigator for a corn field, it has 66-427 on the back under the bell housing and no casting numbers any where, it also has the two extra oil galleries on the back but they don't run down the side like the side oilers i have seen. It is currenlty at a fairly clean 4.05 bore wich would have made it a 390 or 360. Does any one know what this is? Thanx |
| | RE: Probably what you were told...a pump engine. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/02/2005
Without the crossbolts and the 4.23 bore, it's clearly not a 427. The 66-427 on the bell face was just the external mold and means nothing other than that was the box they used. It's the internal core that matters. |
| | | RE: Probably what you were told...a pump engine. -- johnboy, 02/02/2005
Thanks for the info, i forgot to mention that it has screw in freeze plugs and ribs runnin up and down the block skirt, i was hoping i would be able to bore to the 4.23 i want to build the 427 for my 67 Comet sportscoupe. mabey just wishful thinking. -johnboy |
| | | | RE: Probably what you were told...a pump engine. -- Glenn, 02/02/2005
With the screw in plugs it's possible it is a 427 block that had a bad core shift issue but was useable at 4.05. I can't imagine Ford scrapping 427 blocks that were unable to achive a 4.23 bore. You never know and I'd take a better look. I'd say take a freeze plug out and check the wall gap but those are real buggers to get out. G. |
| | | | | Wall gap -- johnboy, 02/02/2005
How do i check wall gap? i have the plugs out already. also there are steel rods running up from the head surfac down and are cast in, i have never seen these on 428s or 390s. my dad has another irrigator motor it is a 428 with ribbed block and a 1UA crank but no rods -johnboy |
| | | | | | RE: Wall gap -- Glenn, 02/03/2005
Use drill bits to gauge it. Also use the shank of the bit to check. 427 walls 8/64" bit 428 walls 13/64" bit 390 walls 17/64" bit This will tell what wall cores were cast in there. This is a neat little test know as the drill bit test and originated by Dave Shoe who is on here at times. There is also a allen wrench test but I'm not familer with that one. G. |
| | | | | | | RE: Speculation on the ribs. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/03/2005
The only thing I've read that makes sense is that late in the production run for the FE, the ribs started showing up. The explanation for this is that it was a sign that the molds were wearing out and the ribs were added to give integrity to the mold...giving them a bit more life. Obviously, the FE was on its way to obsolecence and Ford wasn't likely to invest in new molds. So the ribs do nothing for the casting as far as adding strength, but they did strengthen the molds. Can't say that's the God's honest truth but, again, the only thing I've read that made sense. |
| | | | | | | Wall gap & Ribs -- johnboy, 02/03/2005
Thanx for the info guys according to the wall gap it is a 427, could just get a 7/64 bit in no way on the 1/8 and that is really interesting about the ribs. -johnboy |
| | | | | | | | Not a pump motor -- johnboy, 02/10/2005
Just thought i would let every one who cares know my unidentified motor was not a pump, i talked to they guy i got it from and it was an air compressor, (had other pump motors and for told me wrong) fired on four cyls and the other four compressed air i called to see if he had the heads and he said he got rid of them because they only had two plug holes per head. Never heard of any thing like that thought it was interesting. -johnboy |
| | | | | | | | | RE: That is interesting, John. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/11/2005
Never heard of that application before. I've heard of FEs in irrigation pumps, citris field fans, fork lifts, but never as an air pump. I'd have to think, just based upon the mechanics of it, that it was an inefficient choice.
Thanks for the follow up. |
| | | | | | | | | | interesting! -- Barry B, 02/11/2005
I would have loved to see what the top end of that motor looked like! |
| | | | | | | | | | | These are not common as air pumps but.... -- hawkrod, 02/25/2005
It is common to see engines used as air pumps. The intakes are special as four cylinders just draw clean air from a filter and the other 4 draw air through a carb and it runs on 4. The heads usually are not drilled for plugs in two cylinders and the exhaust is where it starts looking weird as the manifolds only evacuate 2 cylinders and the other two are plumbed to a tank. The California Vehicle Foundation has one of these on display in Sacremento California that I got from a guy in just outside of Monterey. This one is a flathead Ford! Hawkrod |
| | Re: 427? -- chris wareham, 02/21/2005
Hi Johnboy-
I just got off the phone with a guy who was selling 428 CJ blocks that came out of irrigators out west. Apparently a lot of the farmers are switching to diesel and there's a lot of 428's coming like this. I'm not an expert, but you can tell if it's a 428 by punching out the center freeze plug and looking for a "428" cast in the water jacket. Someone else may have a better way of telling you if it's a 427, but without the galleries that you mentioned, it doesn't look like it.
All the best, Chris |
| | | RE: Re: 427? -- johnboy, 02/25/2005
thanx for the info already got this one nailed down with a wall gap test thanx to Glenn, this one actually turned out not to be a pump motor and i live in kansas and have seen piles of 428 pump (oil and irrigation) motors, my dad recently traded a toploader 4spd for one with a 1UA crank and CJ heads, but the blocks never have casting numbers so it can be trouble some deciding what they are at times. this mesage bored is very useful i have discovered -johboy |
| | Re: 427? -- walt, 05/01/2005
a freind of mine that used to bore the fe blocks that some 427s,were bored as 390,because of a core shift in the cylinder wall,making them too weak for perfomance use,instead of scrapping them,they used them as indudtrial/agri engines,also said ford did pull some off the wall stuff to meet production |
| | Re: 427? -- giacamo, 05/01/2005
try getting the cilenders gaged, i,v bored two 391 truck blocks to 427 standerd specks and used, used 427 standerd pistons with a 2u 390 crank and rods still runing, maybe lucky?but thay make a good por mans 427.and streat blaster........ |
| | | RE: Re: 427? -- johnboy, 05/01/2005
Wow new intrest in this post thanx for all the info i am just wating till my 67 comet sports coupe is a little closer to needing a motor before i get it sonic checked by my machinest. i will let you know if it goes 427 once i get it there -johnboy |
| | | | RE: Re: 427? -- giacamo, 05/04/2005
what part of Kansas are you in? |
| | | | | RE: Re: 427? -- johnboy, 05/05/2005
I live in manhattan the motor was from haddam (where i got it) it is right on the nebraska border in east central kansas. Got it from a friend who got it from a guy who deals with scrap engine blocks but he is a bow tie boy so missed this one. -johnboy |
| 428 Cobra Jet oil pan? -- Jack W, 01/31/2005
Was the 428cj oil pan exclusive to this engine? Or was it use on other aplications - such as a truch & so On?? JW |
| | There is a specific CJ pan but..... -- hawkrod, 02/01/2005
There is a C9ZZ pan that was used on CJ's only but it was not used on 68 1/2 or very early 69 cars. They are extremely hard to find due to the fact that they were Mustang Cougar Torino Ranchero Montego only in 69 and Mustang Cougar only in 70. Scotts 428 CJ site has nice pictures of an NOS one posted do you can see what it looks like. Hawkrod |
| | RE: 428 Cobra Jet oil pan? -- Dano, 02/01/2005
Based on what I have read on this web site, a 428 CJ oil pan is the same as any other FE series pan except Ford recalibrated the dipstick for 6 quarts of oil. |
| | | | RE: Unfortunately that is incorrect information -- Dano, 02/02/2005
Thanks for setting the record straight Hawkrod. |
| | | | RE: Unfortunately that is incorrect information -- Jack W, 02/03/2005
Hawk, If that is the Correct CJ 69 oil pan what the hell is this guy selling for $530.00 with windage tray? Does the pan in your pic have a part # Hawk?? N. O. S. OIL PAN 428 CJ SUPER COBRA JET SHELBY GT500 Item #4521335458 This is a Good Ebay item Number.Comes with tray & Box with part #C6OZ-6675-A. I know the tray is right Looks just like mine. Check it out Hawk. Jack W |
| | | | | Hey Hawk ! -- Jack W, 02/03/2005
Are you talking about Scott Hollenbecks CJ Page with the pic of the oil pan?I've been all over that site & haven't seen a pan pic yet-bout everything else. Oh yeah on the ebay oil pan-I've seen a few other just like the nos one claim to be cj pans up for auction...... Jack |
| | | | | | Yup, the C6OZ pan was replaced..... -- hawkrod, 02/03/2005
The C6OZ pan was only used on 68.5's and early 69's and was replaced with teh C9ZZ pan. Scott had pictures of an NOS pan with box on his page but now I can't find them either. I will ask him what happened to the pics. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | RE: Yup, the C6OZ pan was replaced..... -- Jack W, 02/03/2005
My car is a Jan 69 GT-500 the serial number on my car is less that 500-So that would prolly be the pan I really need the C6OZ.I'm trying to get it Right.......... Thanks for the info.That has been a GREAT help to me. Does the 69 cj pan in the pic(Yours)have a part # on it?If so Where. Thanks Jack W |
| | | | | | | | No, your car is late so it would have had the C9ZZ -- hawkrod, 02/03/2005
Your car was made a couple of months after the production changes and would be considered well into the 69 model year. Productions started in August of 68 for 69 cars. Your car would have definitely had a C9ZZ pan specified. The pans do not have any numbers on them other than the normal date code and plant stampings. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | RE: Yup, the C6OZ pan was replaced..... -- Ken, 02/05/2005
That's wrong. The C6OZ pan was not replaced until late 1969. My C60Z pan off of my Mach-1 built in May 1969 has no part # on it but it does have a date code. I have an NOS C9ZZ pan. That has no part # on it either. I don't recall seeing a date code on that. |
| | | | | | | | The difference. -- Ken, 02/06/2005
Jack, you can't tell the difference between the pans from the outside when they are mounted on the engine. The C6OZ pan has a larger baffle inside than the C9ZZ pan. The C9ZZ pan is not hard to find. Perogie has them NOS. There are a few Ford MPC on ebay now. They are the 1975 final printings. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: The difference. -- Jack W, 02/06/2005
Very Good.Which pan would be correct for a Jan 69 Car? I saved the pic from the NOS 1 on Ebay & the one Hawkrod posted.I know what's what now.I'll check Ebay for the book. Thanks Ken JW |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: The difference. -- Ken, 02/06/2005
The C6OZ pan would be correct for a Jan 69 car. I have a Jan 69 CJ and a May 69 CJ and they both have this pan. You can see in the ebay picure the larger baffle in the pan. You can also see where the date code and either Fomoco or the vendor name stamped in the sump area and another mark stamped in the shallow area. You can't always go by the MPC final issue of 1975 because part numbers have been deleted, superceeded and combined by that time. What happened to your oil pan? |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: The difference. -- Jack W, 02/06/2005
Wrong pan came on the engine,but it did have the tray on it.I bought this car 2 years ago.Stripped the interior & have it redone and all about ready to go back in the car.Seats,carpet,dash,door panels,headliner,restored the fold down,seatbelts,rollbar & so on.Just Pulled the engine Jan1st 05.At the machine shop as we type.So I'm finding all the GREMLINS you can't see.Gotta pull the tranny & rearend & get the wiring & glass out so I can send to the body shop for paint.I can see the lite at the end of the tunnel OR is that a train?Gotta spare oil pan? Thanks JW |
| | | | | | | | | | | | RE: The difference. -- Ken, 02/06/2005
That's good progress! I just ran my engine on the dyno last week after a complete rebuild! We pulled 382hp. I opted to reuse the C6OZ pan rather than the NOS C9ZZ pan. I was upset when I realized they were different on the inside. I have to clean up the engine compartment, chasis, and detail the rear axle. I've had this car since 1979 and the Jan. car (second owner) since 1983. Good luck! |
| | | | | Correct information -- Ken, 02/04/2005
The NOS oil pan that sold on ebay for $530 with the windage tray was the C6OZ pan that came on 1969 Cobra Jets. My car was built in May '69 and has this pan. The C6OZ pan was replaced with the C9ZZ pan at least as a service part. The baffle inside is smaller on the C9ZZ pan but outside they are identical. |
| | | | | | The C9ZZ pan came out in 11/68 at least -- Hawkrod, 02/04/2005
The C9ZZ pan is listed in the late 68 parts book. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | RE: The C9ZZ pan came out in 11/68 at least -- Ken, 02/05/2005
The August 1969 issue of the Ford Master Parts Catalog lists the C6OZ-6675-A pan for the 68/69 Mustang CJ & SCJ. The C9ZZ pan did not appear in the catalog until later. I saw the C9ZZ pan listed in the April 1970 Ford Master Parts Catalog that I had. I think you are thinking of the C9ZZ-6687-A baffle |
| | | | | | | | No, I got my info from an 11/68 MPC revision -- Hawkrod, 02/05/2005
The 11/69 revision lists the oil pan and the new piston weights. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | | RE: No, I got my info from an 11/68 MPC revision -- Ken, 02/05/2005
>The 11/69 revision lists the oil pan and the new piston weights. Hawkrod<
Oh. You said you saw it in the 11/68 issue now you say you saw it in the 11/69 issue. I believe it is in the 11/69 issue but not the 11/68 issue. |
| | | | | | | | | | it was a typo 11/68 is correct -- Hawkrod, 02/05/2005
November 1968 not 1969. It is just a dozen or so pages that were to be inserted in the MPC, I have some photocopies and I will see if I can find them for you. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: Where can I get a MPC -- Jack W, 02/05/2005
Are these Ford Parts books available to purchase somewhere.............? JW |
| | | | | | | | | | | | The oil pan was designed in July of 68... -- Hawkrod, 02/06/2005
Attached is a picture of the original blueprint of the C9ZZ oil pan and its initial date is 7/3/68 with the final sign off as 8/23/68. The blueprint notes that is the same spec pan as the C6OZ except for the baffle. I am sorry but they would not have designed this and signed it off and sent out revised parts book updates showing it unless they used it. I contend that it was a mid November 68 changeover when they were added although the dates indicate it may have been earlier than I supposed. MPC's can be had from Dan Davis in CD form, look up to the right on your screen at the CD. Also note that the CD is the final edition and it has a ton of revised numbers and you really need early copies of the parts books for certain items that were either phased in or phased out before the final edition. These early copies show up at car shows and swap meets as well as on eBay occasionally. Be prepared to pay a lot for early copies. I got many of mine when the dealership I worked closed in the early 80's (foresight?). Hawkrod
|
| | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: The oil pan was designed in July of 68... -- Ken, 02/06/2005
Interesting indeed! But why isn't the C9ZZ pan listed in the 8/69 MPC new issue? It is in the 4/70 MPC book. And why does my Jan 69 car (second owner) and even my May 69 car have the C6OZ pan, both Metuchen cars. The only change over the MPC final issue shows is Dec 68 for full size Ford and police cars from the C6OZ pan to another pan. Unless you can produce the 11/68 MPC revision with the C9ZZ listing and a change over date, it's difficult to believe. It must take a while to go from blue print to assembly line or service part stock. And how do you know if the C9ZZ pan was ever an assembly line part? If it was there should be a change over date. It may have just been a service replacement. I can't read anything on your print. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | It would be impossible for it to be in the 8/68 -- Hawkrod, 02/06/2005
The parts books were typeset, the 8/68 set would have likely gone out before they even started playing with it. I can suggest that your cars do not have correct ones if the dealers didn't put the updates in the MPC and replaced a pan which was very common. I do know of a 16,000 mile original 69 with a build date of 21L (but it was built two week late) and it has the pan. It is also possible that there were shoratges at the engine assembly plant or somebody who did not know they were supposed to use the new part. A lot can happen over the years and unless you bought the car new it would be impossible to verify what the car came with. Hawkrod
And PS, thanks to Dave Shoe and another member of the FordFe.com for the use of the blueprint |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: It would be impossible for it to be in the 8/68 -- Ken, 02/07/2005
Who said anything about the 8/68 MPC? You claim the C9ZZ pan is in a late 1968 MPC. Show us! I know it's not in the August 1969 MPC. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | My mistake, I misread your post -- Hawkrod, 02/07/2005
I will dig out my revisions and post it. I have thousands of them because our dealership opened in 1939 and the parts guys never inserted most of the revisions so they are still in the envelopes. The only revisions I pulled out to have on hand were the Shelby parts lists as I reprinted them and sold them a few years ago. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | Do the notes say 'released to production' + a date? [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/08/2005
n/m |
| | | | | | | | | | | | We offer Ford's MPC on CD. See my ad, at right... -- Mr F, 02/08/2005
n/m |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: We offer Ford's MPC on CD. See my ad, at right... -- Jack W, 02/08/2005
Yeah, Hawk pointed that out. I'm afraid it will have to many revisions & delete #'s I may need. JW |
| 428 fe -- Brian Shear, 01/30/2005
Looking for a after market flexplate for a 69 428cj any ideas out their? I dont want to use the old one because I dont trust it with the new motor. Its the third in the car and I seem to be prone to breaking them. |
| | RE: 428 fe -- Denny, 01/31/2005
Brian, there is a place in Meridian, Ms. that I got mine from. Reasonable, good quality. For the life of me I can't remember the name. I'll locate it in my paperwork and repost. Denny |
| | RE: 428 fe -- salid, 02/02/2005
a couple years ago I got one from Cam Research in Colorado. It was a Ford replacement part with the Ford logo on it. It did not have the tri-angular cut outs. You can look at some of their stuff at http://www.camresearchcorp.com/ but I didn't see anything there about flexplates. Call them and see if they have any left. |
| Shelby Fog Light question -- Fatblockford, 01/28/2005
I know the rectangular shaped fog lights on the 68 Shelby's are Lucas lights. What are the large round ones ,in the center of the grill, on the 67 Shelby's? Can these be bought aftermarket? Thanks. |
| | They're not fog lights, per se... -- John Bednorz, 01/28/2005
They are just regular high-beam headlights for a standard 4-headlight system (like on any 69 Mustang). They are spliced into the factory high-beam wire and come on when the high beams are on.
Some people install lights with special lenses that look like fog (or driving) lights in this location. |
| | RE: Shelby Fog Light question -- FATBLOCKFORD, 01/28/2005
Quick apology...I just realized I was off topic on the Fog Light question. You guys helped allot though and I appreciate it. (I am running a FE if that's any consolation.) |
| 427 vs 428 -- BB67FB, 01/28/2005
I am looking to build a FE engine for my mustang, and have been torn between a 427 and a 428 for quite some time. I know the 427 block is setup better with crossbolted mains, but is that the only thing that makes them better and going for three and four times as much as a 428 block? What kind of HP and torque differences will there be when it comes to building them? I guess the main question I am asking is, is there anything besides a better bottom end and a lot of nostalgia that makes the 427 a better choice over the 428? I am saving up cash right now to purchase one block or the other, and am unsure which way to go! Thanks for all your help! |
| | RE: Tough question. -- Gerry Proctor, 01/28/2005
Here's a little nugget of knowledge about the real vs. perceived difference.
Many real Shelby 427 Cobras are really 428 Cobras regardless of what the badge says on the fender.
The 427 was designed as a racing block. It is as different from a 428 in just about any way you can think of. The 427 blocks were stress relieved in manufacturing. Many used alloys not used in regular production manufacturing. Then there is the crossbolts and the custom assembly.
The 428 was designed as an economical lever to push big Thunderbirds and Galaxy wagons around. It uses standard production line casting and assembly techniques. It's just a big-inch FE. There's not even much difference between a 428 T-bird block and a 428SCJ block.
If a 427 and a 428 block cost the same, you and probably everyone else would pick the 427 block. But they don't cost the same so that's where you have to decide. If you can get a good 428 block for $600 or pay $3,000 for a 427 block, which do you choose? Depends on what you're going to do with it. If you're going to be spinning the engine regularly to 7,000 rpm, you'd better get the 427. If you don't need the more robust endurance features of the 427, then from an economical standpoint the 428 makes a lot more sense. Carrol Shelby thought so.
As for which makes more torque...depends entirely on how the engine is built. The torque peak always occurs at max VE. If both engines have the same VE curve, then they'll make the same torque, statistically speaking. Theoretically, the 428, with the longer arm should make more torque or, if you will, the 427 should make more torque due to the move favorable rod/stroke ratio. Either of these falls withing a dyno's margin of error so the difference would be inconsequential as far as being a factor in your choice.
As far as horsepower. It's a bit of a different side of the same coin as torque. The 427, with the potential for a higher redline, could make more horsepower than the 428. But, again, only if it were built that way. If you use the same parts (cam, heads, intake, exhaust) on both engines, they'll perform about the same. Theoretically, again, the 427 should make more horsepower due to a slightly lower piston speed which equates to less friction. Again, within the dyno's margin of error.
Now, obviously, if there is no similarity between the two engines (428 using C8AE-H heads, mild hydraulic cam, iron intake and log exhaust manifolds) and a dressed medium riser 427 you have nothing fairly compared. The 427 would unmercilessly kick the 428's ass.
So, in my opinion, get the 427 if you need the extra endurance and durability for those 7,000+ rpm adventures. If you don't need to spin it that tight, the 428 makes more sense.
Things like very high compression ratios, supercharging, and big shots of nitrous demand upgrades regardless of rpm ceilings so if you're contemplating those, you might end up needing the 427's strength(along with the forged, lightweight pistons, forged crank, worked rods). |
| | RE: 427 vs 428 -- giacamo, 01/28/2005
the 427 is my hands down pick with it,s zero internal balance setup thay can really take the rpm,s and hold together. i,d even take the 406 over the 428 MY 2 cents.......... |
| | | RE: 427 vs 428 -- Glenn, 01/29/2005
How about a 406 block? Some have the crossbolt nubs. All are solid lifter blocks with 427 size enlarged oil passages with oil pressure relief valve. STD 4.13 bore. Some even have 427 cyl walls. I have a 406 block with 427 thickness walls on one side and std 406/428 on the other....strange LOL. A quick peek inside the freeze plugs will tell. They sell for about the same money 428 blocks are going for. I see about one a month on ebay. They are a little more rare and hard to find but don't fetch the big money the 427's do. G. |
| | | | RE: 427 vs 428 -- BB67FB, 01/29/2005
If they have the same cylinder walls as the 427, can they be bored out to a 427? Thanks for all the info! I guess I am leaning towards a 427 right now, but they are soooo damn expensive! They sound like they are worth the money though, at least compared to the 428. I have not even looked at the 406 block but will now as perhaps it is an option! Thanks again! Nick |
| | | | | RE: 427 vs 428 -- Glenn, 01/29/2005
Some not all will have the thicker walls. I think the late 62 blocks were the ones but not positive. It seems there was no pattern to it and beleive a 406 service block was just an underbored 427 from what I've read about them. Mine is a C3-D 406 and most of these have the std 406/428 wall casting from what I've seen. Mine is just a freak with the one side at 427 thickness. I'm sure the thick walled 406's could core shift permitting but at 4.13 std the block would last just about forever with 427 walls. There were a couple of nice 427 c/o block on ebay a few months back. Guy is a forum member on the network54 site. They sold for $2000 and $2200 and both were std bore. One needed .010 and the other a hone to stay std. Not a bad deal! The two 406 blocks I've seen see recently were both under $1000. One was std and good the other .020 and needed .030 and these were ebay prices. I bought my entire 406 original and complete with the tripower as well for $1500 two years ago. Also ran across a guy that had a 63 427 for $3k minus intake and dizzy recently. So some deals are still out there. G. |
| | | | | | 427 always makes more power than a 428 -- Royce Peterson, 01/29/2005
More torque too. Because of its bigger bore size the 427 can fill the cylinder more efficiently given everything else the same. For the same reason a 427 can have bigger valves thane a 428.
Nascar Ford racers of the 1960's could have run any bore / stroke combination under 7 litres. Guess which one they used?
Royce |
| | | | | | | RE: 427 always makes more power than a 428 -- Dano, 01/30/2005
Before spending $3000.00 on a used 427 block, you can always check out the new Genisis 427 FE blocks, they are very beefy and lots of cylinder wall thickness. |
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