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 |  360 to 428 -- Bob, 01/28/2005
Any of you guys know if a '75 360 can be bored and stroked to 428 dimensions? It's in an F250 4X4. |
|  | RE: Search forum -- Gerry Proctor, 01/28/2005
The short answer is sometimes, but not frequently enough to say beyond a shaky maybe. More like very doubtful. You need to go .080 and there's usually not enough meat in the walls to allow you to go that far and maintain sufficient wall thickness. But it depends on what a sonic check shows.
Search for "sonic check" and "maximum overbore" and "390 overbore." This have been written to the death. |
| |  | RE: Search forum -- Bob, 01/28/2005
Sorry, I'm new here. |
|  | RE: 360 to 428 -- Dennis, 01/30/2005
I took my '68 390 truck engine out to 4.13 with no overheating problems. Maybe I just got lucky. Look for casting #C7ME-A |
| | RE: 360 to 428 -- Troy, 01/30/2005
certain fe blocks can be bored to 4.16 from 4.05 take out frost plug and insert 7/32 allen key between cylinders.if snug,go to town.look for block casting numbers D2TE,D3TE andD4TE. they usually have the heavy cylinder walls and re-inforcing in the mains.some even have the main caps with higher nickel content.good-luck with your project.FE`s forever. |
| |  | Dennis, Troy -- Bob, 01/31/2005
Thanx. So if I can staick a 7/32 and it's snug I'm good? Whats this 15/64 drill bit thing I've read about in here? |
| | | | RE: Dennis, Troy -- jake, 02/01/2005
You should really go get a $60--$100 sonic test before spending the $$ to machine a block. The drill bit/allen key is good for a first test, but you could still end up with a thin cylinder away from the few spots that you can insert the key (i.e. inside the freeze plugs).
Dispite what you hear it is pretty uncommon for an FE block to go .080 over and have enough left that it doesn't split a cylinder or overheat constantly.
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| | | | | RE: Dennis, Troy -- Roger, 02/04/2005
Bob sounds like were both trying to do the same thing except ive got a 390.Pat ganahl said all replacement 428's sold after1074 were 391 truck blocks hence the vertical ribs on the sides of the block. but there are as many people who say it cant be as are who say it can be done so heres the solution I came up with.Since were both looking to swap cranks you could use a 410/428 crank & stock fe parts to come up w/ 410 like ford did or you can really add some cubes thru stroker cranks. they have kits that come out to 445 c.i
Shelby enterprises has one that goes to 510 c.i
also ol shel, has a new 427 block. the 428 crank is still available new or used Dsc offers them used, Scat has new cast & steel billet, Dsc offers offset ground 390 cranks w/ 4.02 stroke using chrysler rods yields 427 c.i. also try allied motors, strokerkits.com, speedomotive.com, scat crankshaft.com,dscmotorsport.com hope this helps. |
| | RE: 360 to 428 -- walt, 04/17/2005
ps,alot of the D4TE blockscame with reinforced extra ribs in the main bearing area,just like the 428 cj |
| | | RE: 360 to 428 -- walt, 04/24/2005
i forgot to tell you that the late 360 used theSAME piston as the 390 4v,you can take and put a 390 crank and rods in the 360,and it will factory balance,also trie with the 390 low compression motor lit used a 410 piston..0200 lower than the 390.making the comp a 8.5 ,put a 428 crank in it now you have a 10 to 1 comp 410 motor,but use the early 428 pi/cj fly to fac balance,i found the set of 390 4v pistons in my 360 pick up truck,puting 390 stuff,upped it to 10 comp,do not use the 360 rods they are too long,and thinner |
| Body Mounts -- Roger D. Davis, 01/27/2005
Looking for body mounts for my 65 Galaxie 2 door hardtop,
Thanks!
Roger D. Davis
FGCoA Member 4333
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| hot cylinder -- jeff, 01/27/2005
can a misadjusted exhaust valve create high exhaust temperatures ?
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| | Sure. -- Royce Peterson, 01/29/2005
How high are we talking about? The rear cylinders always run hottest so expect them to be 10 - 20 degrees higher on #4 and #8.
Royce |
| 428 -- Gary Goblirsch, 01/26/2005
Are you able to balance a 428 internaly? If not why? |
| | Re: 428 -- Jack W, 01/26/2005
Yes you can.
They come balance externally from the factory.
As soon as I get mine back from the machine shop-gotta see if it needs to be bored-I'll get new TRW pistons.Then I'll take them with the rods,crank,flywheel and the harmonic balancer to the balancer specialist.He'll get the pistons to weigh all the same-rods & so on.
He did my Boss 302 & It was super smooth.Well worth the $150.00 he charged me 3 years ago.Gonna do it again,
JW
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| | Re: 428 -- gene simmons, 01/27/2005
it can be done but it would be expensve/ the crank would be drilled then filled with mallory metal which is very heavy and expensive. not sure if its worth the trouble since there seems to be a big enough fe following that all parts are available. scat cranks and rods , etc. |
| | Re: 428 -- Geoff, 02/03/2005
Only the 428-SCJ is external balanced with its "hatchet spacer" weighted sleeve behind the larger dampener...this to compensate for heavier LeMans capscrew rods and crank (typ. "1UA") used on the SCJ.
All std. 428's and the 428-CJ are already zero balance motors. |
| | | RE: Oooo. No, Geoff. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/03/2005
The 410 and 428 are all externally balanced from the flywheel(whether manual or automatic). If you look at an automatic flywheel, you'll see a chunk of metal welded on the plate and you also probably see drilled dimples for the fine balance. Manual flywheels are likewise different.
The "hatchet" used on the SCJ was indeed different since the SCJ used a heavier rod and had also center crank counterweights. If your engine doesn't have these distict characteristics then you shouldn't use the hatchet. Likewise, if your engine is an SCJ, you need to use the hatchet.
All FE engines used a detroit balance where the crank was balanced with the damper and flywheel attached and, depending on the engine, balance was achieved on either the crank or on the flywheel. |
| | | | RE: Oooo. No, Geoff. -- Geoff, 02/03/2005
Ouch! My mistake. You are right. The hatchet spacer is just a little "extra" external balance unique to the SCJ. I have the spacer, Lemans rods and 1UA crank. But, as I look at my flywheel it is as you describe.
So, ALL 428's need a different flywheel from other FE's.... with a 28 oz. counterweight, is it? |
| | | | | Admit I don't know what the imbalance number is. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/03/2005
I'm not that well versed on the minutia. I only know that all 410 and 428s, auto or stick, are externally balance on the flywheel. I have examples of both internal and external flywheels and they are very easy to distinguish from one another.
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| 1969 scj started running bad please advise -- gene lumpkins, 01/26/2005
Hi, I've got a 69 shelby with the drag pack scj motor. Well I got my smog on and decided to install my correct distributer to replace the incorrect 12127 duel point that had been converted to panorix. I got a repo vac hose kit also and new vac tee. When i got the distributer installed and timed> I unplugged both vac hoses to time at 6 btc then after plugging hases back in timing was running retarded but advanced when gas was applied. Car ran like crap especially when gas was hit heavy car would loose power. Going up a hill it would loose so much power you had to pull off road. I installed onld dist. with panorix update and it did the same thing even though it ran real strong with that dist. before I pulled and tried to replace. I'm thinking my coil is going bad. What else could it be? If it's timed right at idol it would be installed correctly wouldn't it? I wish I had left it alone but wanted it correct. Thanks Gene |
| | Start with the basics. -- Gerry Proctor, 01/26/2005
- Is the firing order correcty wired?
- Are all the plug wires in good order(terminals properly attached)?
- Proper point dwell/module air gap?
- Distributor primary wire(the small wire from the points or module) to the negative terminal on the coil?
- Primary connections clean and tight?
- Initial ignition advance properly set?
- All vacuum lines connected to their proper locations?
You always want to check the things that don't cost money before you start throwing money at the problem.
There are methods for checking the surity of the coil, condensor, and plug wires. I really doubt you'll find your problem with those as faulty.
As to the timing, I suggest that you may be setting timing to what seems right but is, in reality, very far off. Depending on what style balancer you're using, the timing mark could have slipped on the inertia ring and you could be looking at a bogus reference. You can get a good idea if you're in the ballpark by connecting a vacuum gauge to the intake. With the vacuum advance/retard lines disconneted from the distributor, you should see around 18" hg on the gauge. Very low readings at 12" or so indicate very late timing. Obviously, the vacuum method can't be used to determine what your timing is, but it can be used as a diagnostic tool.
There are other, more complex, things that could cause this but please do go with the simple things first.
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| | RE: 1969 scj started running bad please advise -- giacamo, 01/26/2005
gene like Gerry says look at the simpel things first , but don,t be suprized you might haft to look at the carb i have a friend with a 390 69 mustang and everv time he decides to take it out every two to three years of storage i haft to rebild his holly i would thing a scj shelby dont get much run time now a days? i could be wrong but a dried out holly can be a real problem. |
| | | RE: 1969 scj started running bad please advise -- Jack W, 01/26/2005
If it was running fine before you put all that stuff on the car.....I would say You may be 1 or 2 gear teeth off when you put the correct dist. back in. OR it may be worn out.All off Garys checklist would be in Good Order too & maybe the carb.But if it was running fine B4 sounds like the aforementioned.Balancer slipping the rubber would have been my other suspect-Gary already got that one.
Check Dist. & check for vacuum leaks.
JW |
| headers for 67 Thunderbird -- Tom, 01/25/2005
Can anyone steer me to a pair of headers for a '67 T-bird, with a 428 ?
Clearance appears to be tight. |
| | | RE: headers for 67 Thunderbird -- sidewinder, 05/14/2005
Yes, FPA makes a header for the 67 T-Bird FE |
| Oil Pump Drive Shaft -- Dennis, 01/24/2005
Upon disassembly of my 390 truck engine, I noticed some kind of scuffing marks on the oil pump drive shaft. Could this be from some clearance problem between the oil pump drive shaft and the first lobe of the crankshaft? |
| Ford FE Distrubutor BASIC -- John Mollara, 01/24/2005
Hi, I am replacing the heads on my 390 FE. I have never replaced a distubutor. When I take my intake off how do I remove and correcly replace the distrubutor? |
| | RE: Ford FE Distrubutor BASIC -- Jack W, 01/24/2005
Get the #1 Cylinder In the TDC position.Your rotor in the dist. should be pointed at the #1 mark on your dist. cap when you are at TDC on #1 cyl.I believe The harmonic balancer should be on the zero mark too. Mark a spot on the dist.where your rotor is pointing,so you will have referrence of where your rotor is pointing. Loosen dist bolt & pull it out.Whem you pull it out The rotor will move from the marked position because of the angled spline of the dist. gear to the cam gear.
The trick is to get it back in the same spot when re-installing.You will have to start back in with the rotor 3 of 4 gear teeth back so it will line back up on(rotate back)to the spot you marked on the dist.This may take a couple of shots to get it back in the right spot.
JW |
| Not diagrams but pics? -- Ken, 01/24/2005
Can anyone either post or e-mail me actual pics of the vacuum set up on a 65 Thunderchicken. I'm having to try to figure out fittings and locations. Imput would help
Am looking for the actual fitting to connect vac lines to intake manifold and how the heck do the lines split off to go to several locations?
Thanks,
Ken |
| | RE: Not diagrams but pics? -- Brian Shear, 02/06/2005
are you still in kneed of help? |
| troubles upon fireup -- jeff, 01/23/2005
i have a 428 just freshly rebuilt , edelbrock heads intake, proform carb(holley double pumper) anyway upon fire up i used a point and shoot gun to check primary header temps, and found #4 cyl running hot , i have run it just long enough to break the cam in, using around 15 degrees initial advance. Now i noticed more crankcase vapors coming off that cyl's valve cover vent are much more than opposite side. Pulled plug on #4 cyl it looks rich but not burnt. I found oil seeping out of exhaust port on #4cyl, im concerned any ideas? thanks jeff |
| | RE: troubles upon fireup -- giacamo, 01/25/2005
maybe still breaking in or #4 gides having proublems?or #4 valve seals? |
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