Not an answer but, Some aftermarket manifolds mount the carb in a different spot, I seem to think about an inch back. Something you should check out. Ray

n/m

any specific year for the pi intake?
Jack

Give me a call . If you require a (no leak) HD 16 gauge construction header for your FE Mustang with MAX ground clearance and you can actually both both headers to the engine and drop it in as a unit. Over 1000 sets sold.www.fordpowertrain.com

Would not buy anything from Crites. I ordered a readiator for my 65 galaxie. $450 part. They sent me a radiator for a 64. The Girl on the phone argued that it was the same. It wasn't. they would not allow a return due to it being custom. Had to cut my car due to the trans cooler being mounted on the side instead of the bottom. Radiator leaked, Both Crites and Howe radiator wouldn't warranty due to it being a custom order. I didn't feel this was custom, as it was an item in their catalog. $800 later the radiator is ok. The girl was very nasty on the phone.

Edelbrock Performer intake will work fine with your street application. A good set of headers should also be included in your upgrade.

Even if they don't have a perfect fit (using original brackets...) then they'd have one that you can use by modifying your brackets a bit.

I'm using one of their Ford generic radiators in my '67 390 Fairlane. I had to fabricate a top bracket and modify the bottom brackets but it works great even in the tripple-digit temperature South Texas summers.

i can get you the part number and the lenght, i think it's 18 inches, as far as finding one good luck, i used one that was close and tweaked it a little to fit.. try http://mansfieldmustang.com/Transmissionsp2.html

You don't need 3" exhaust at your airflow rate. Once you start approaching the 500 hp level, a 2.5" system becomes a clog in the system and a 3" system really helps.

Even if you have the room and the price for the system is the same, a 3" exhaust is substantially louder than a 2.5" system. Also, you'll pay a lot more for a 3" x-pipe than the more common 2.5 pipe.

Click here for image...

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=931&Reply=929

First, C8AE-H heads are common, run of the mill, garden variety...FE head used on everything that was not a 428CJ or 427. That includes all cars and trucks. The piston design determined the compression ratio.

The first part of your question is more opinion. You didn't provide any background on what your intentions are but roller rockers are a somewhat poor return on investment (regardless of what the seller is using to hype these rockers..."will pick that big block up around 20HP...") unless you're running a much stiffer (like over 140lbs seat pressure) valve spring and even then it's questionable. Those rockers in particular are bottom feeders. The bare minimum I would consider as adequate would have a bronze-bushed fulcrum. The top of the line use a roller fulcrum. If you look closely, you'll see that the fulcrum is parent aluminum. It is probably hard anodized or T6 treated but that's not enough in my book.

There are more and more valve train options available for the FE builder but the key remains in making smart choices. If you're not running anti-pumpup lifters (or solids) and reving over 6k rpm, then the factory hydraulic, non-adjustable rockers will work just fine. If you need adjustables, there are iron (Crane, FRP...) that will work with stock shafts and only need the ball and cup pushrods. There are some good aluminum roller tip and roller tip and fulcrum rockers out there. There are also upgraded shafts, stands, end stands, and spacers available. It gets real easy to spend over $1,000 on the valve train. If you're going to spend the money, you want to make sure that you get a return on your investment in either durability or horsepower (getting both is even better) and these particular rockers, again, in my opinion, are neither.

You need a bellhousing for the 11.5" clutch, Rudy. That may be from a 390GT, 427, or 428. It's a pretty common housing and very easy to find all the time on ePay.

The clutch fork pivot is different between the '67 and earlier and the '68 and later housings. The most common casting number for this housing is C6OA-6394-D. The date code determines whether it's '67 and earlier or '68 and later. But the pivot can be changed. You'll also need the C8OA-7515-D fork for the 1 3/8 input late-style pivot.

There is more than one housing that will work for your application. You can research the various housings here: http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/bellhousingidchart.htm

Also, beware of the folks selling truck housings (a T in the casting number). These housings are 3/8" deeper than car housings and will work only with a smallblock input shaft with the longer pilot. Regardless of the particular casting number, the housing will have a prominent "hump" in the 12 o-clock postion. This hump clearly identifies the housing for the 11.5" clutch.

I use one......you'll have to get the offset spacers (still available from Offy I think). Mine works great....more power than I can put to use. ONly thing I didn't like is the ports are tall and narrow......must have been meant for heads other than my standard FE ones. But as I said.......I can't utilize all the power I have in a 2500 lb car, though I am sure there are better drivers who could.