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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23598&Reply=23598><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Fe 427 cougar</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RICK MANUS, <i>12/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Check out the rare w code cougar gte 427 on ebay, not meny of these around with the correct numbered eng and trans. Still in them.  </blockquote> Fe 427 cougar -- RICK MANUS, 12/26/2004
Check out the rare w code cougar gte 427 on ebay, not meny of these around with the correct numbered eng and trans. Still in them.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23599&Reply=23598><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Fe 427 cougar</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RICK MANUS, <i>12/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>The ebay item # is 4513810643 </blockquote> RE: Fe 427 cougar -- RICK MANUS, 12/26/2004
The ebay item # is 4513810643
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23605&Reply=23598><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Fe 427 cougar</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>12/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Rick,<br><br>I like your car. What casting number are the heads and block?<br><br>Royce </blockquote> RE: Fe 427 cougar -- Royce P, 12/27/2004
Rick,

I like your car. What casting number are the heads and block?

Royce
 RE: Fe 427 cougar -- RICK MANUS, 12/27/2004
block casting is C8AE-A HEADS ARE
C8OE-N WITH BOTH HAVING DATE
8B2 FEB.2 1968 CAR WAS BUILT
3/12/68 ONLY THE LEFT SIDE HEAD
HAS THE VIN OF THE CAR STAPED
IN IT.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23597&Reply=23597><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>1961 4 brrl 1100 cfm Autolite carb?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill, <i>12/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Does anyone have any info on an old Ford 4 brrl carb, Numbers are C1AE-AH stamped on base, and a B 1.12 raised cast number inside a circle right above the stamped serial number.  My buddy said its off an old full sized Ford car that had Police Interceptor motor?  He says its a 1100 C.F.M.?  Its a double pumper and quite a bit larger than my 750 C.F.M. out of a 67 Galaxie.  Should I try to retsore it or junk it?  Any hepl will do. Thanks  </blockquote> 1961 4 brrl 1100 cfm Autolite carb? -- Bill, 12/26/2004
Does anyone have any info on an old Ford 4 brrl carb, Numbers are C1AE-AH stamped on base, and a B 1.12 raised cast number inside a circle right above the stamped serial number. My buddy said its off an old full sized Ford car that had Police Interceptor motor? He says its a 1100 C.F.M.? Its a double pumper and quite a bit larger than my 750 C.F.M. out of a 67 Galaxie. Should I try to retsore it or junk it? Any hepl will do. Thanks
 RE: 1961 4 brrl 1100 cfm Autolite carb? -- McQ, 12/27/2004
I have this exact carb. Here's what I know about it:

It came off an original '62 Merc wagon w/390 & cruiso.

The 1.12 on the side indicates venturi and it's a 600 cfm. Autolites with the 1.08 stamping are 480 cfm.

These carbs are not double pumpers. Just standard 4V's with vacuum secondaries. That's the diaphram on the back.

Through 1964 these Autolites used jets interchangebale with Holleys.

They're good carbs that are easy to work on and dependable if built properly.

One draw back is that typically the throttle shaft gets worn, corroded, etc. and they tend to stick as they heat up during operation.

There are companies, i.e., Pony Carburetors, that specialize in literally remanufacturing these carbs. They make them look and operate like brand new.

I trust my old '62 4100 A'lite so much that I used it on my 427 for initial start up and continuing break in. Once I get things fairly dialed in.....it'll be time to bolt on various Holleys to see what I can do to slow the car down. But the Autolite 1.12 is always there if I or a good friend needs it.

There are others who have posted on this forum about these Autolites that know a lot more than I do. So if you need more, keep asking, they'll jump back in with the answers.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23594&Reply=23594><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Sonic Testing</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>MAZ, <i>12/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a quick one here...What is the minimum thickness a person should have on a block when sonic testing?  I have never heard what it should be, so I figured I'd ask in this forum.  Thanks in advance... </blockquote> Sonic Testing -- MAZ, 12/26/2004
I have a quick one here...What is the minimum thickness a person should have on a block when sonic testing? I have never heard what it should be, so I figured I'd ask in this forum. Thanks in advance...
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23606&Reply=23594><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Not under .100 on the thrust side.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>12/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>That's not a desireable target but an absolute minimum for reasonable wall durability and stability.  A more realistic minimum is .120 if you can do it.  You can go under .100 if you're willing to hardblock the jackets.  Some folks have gone under this with nothing special, but you're pushing your luck.<br><br>Ask your machinist about offset boring if you have a thin walls on the thrust.  Also, your machinist should be able to give you the benefit of his experience with an opinion on minimum wall thickness.  He has the most to loose, besides you, if the cylinder has sealing trouble. </blockquote> RE: Not under .100 on the thrust side. -- Gerry Proctor, 12/27/2004
That's not a desireable target but an absolute minimum for reasonable wall durability and stability. A more realistic minimum is .120 if you can do it. You can go under .100 if you're willing to hardblock the jackets. Some folks have gone under this with nothing special, but you're pushing your luck.

Ask your machinist about offset boring if you have a thin walls on the thrust. Also, your machinist should be able to give you the benefit of his experience with an opinion on minimum wall thickness. He has the most to loose, besides you, if the cylinder has sealing trouble.
 RE: Not under .100 on the thrust side. -- MAZ, 12/27/2004
And by thrust side, you're saying the bottom side of the cylinder on one side of the block and the top on the other side, right? What I have is a 391T block and it's at 4.11" right now and after sonic testing it's at least .202" thick on top and bottom of the cylinder on either side of the block. Just want to make sure.
 Hot air choke cap for 428 CJ Holley Carb -- Kent, 12/26/2004
I want to replace the electric choke cap on my universal 428 CJ 735 Holley carb over to the original hot air cap the carb originally had. Can anyone out there be of any help?
Thanks
Kent
salsender@charter.net
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23591&Reply=23591><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>repro shaker</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jack, <i>12/25/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi I remeber seeing a complete reproduction shaker on some site for around $400 bucks, I never thought I would need it till I bought a big block thats suppose to have a shaker. Now im looking for that site and cant find it anymore. anybody have experience with these shakers? are they ok and would you might have the link somwhere?<br>Thanks and Merry Christmas<br>Jack </blockquote> repro shaker -- Jack, 12/25/2004
Hi I remeber seeing a complete reproduction shaker on some site for around $400 bucks, I never thought I would need it till I bought a big block thats suppose to have a shaker. Now im looking for that site and cant find it anymore. anybody have experience with these shakers? are they ok and would you might have the link somwhere?
Thanks and Merry Christmas
Jack
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23592&Reply=23591><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: repro shaker</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jack, <i>12/25/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>oh and is the repro shakers functional?<br>Jack </blockquote> RE: repro shaker -- Jack, 12/25/2004
oh and is the repro shakers functional?
Jack
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23604&Reply=23591><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: repro shaker</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>MAZ, <i>12/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Check this site:<br><br><a href="http://www.fordramair.com/">http://www.fordramair.com/</a> </blockquote> RE: repro shaker -- MAZ, 12/27/2004
Check this site:

http://www.fordramair.com/
 RE: repro shaker -- Jack, 12/30/2004
thanks for all the links fellas.
are these functional shakers? or do I have to buy the vacumm module inside and maybe also add the snorkel?
Jack
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23584&Reply=23584><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Doest it make sense?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken Powers, <i>12/23/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote><br>I know the stock intake manifolds are beasts does it make sense to put another cast iron one on or does it make better sence to go with a performance set up of aluminum? </blockquote> Doest it make sense? -- Ken Powers, 12/23/2004

I know the stock intake manifolds are beasts does it make sense to put another cast iron one on or does it make better sence to go with a performance set up of aluminum?
 RE: Doest it make sense? -- Rons66GT, 12/23/2004
As long as cost or originality isn't an issue, go with the aluminum intake.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23600&Reply=23584><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE sense?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>big dave, <i>12/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>depends what cast iron manifold you plan to use, if you want a 427 intake, go for it; but if you want to just replace it with another standard intake, you should step up to aluminum. they are lighter and perform better than a stocker. </blockquote> RE sense? -- big dave, 12/26/2004
depends what cast iron manifold you plan to use, if you want a 427 intake, go for it; but if you want to just replace it with another standard intake, you should step up to aluminum. they are lighter and perform better than a stocker.
 RE sense? -- Joe, 12/26/2004
IMO replace that heavy cast iron intake replace with a performance aluminum intake get the added benefits of new tech and better heat dissapation....I have done it on a few of my cars and looks stock...just grind off the edelbrock name and repaint...gone...no one knows any different.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23575&Reply=23575><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Carb replacement</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken Powers, <i>12/23/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Have a 69 390 FE with a crummy 2 barrel Ford carb.  I'd like to swap it out for a 4 barrel pref a Ford 4 barrel.  Any suggestions as to the swap or where to obtain a carb and is intake manifiold swap necessary too? </blockquote> Carb replacement -- Ken Powers, 12/23/2004
Have a 69 390 FE with a crummy 2 barrel Ford carb. I'd like to swap it out for a 4 barrel pref a Ford 4 barrel. Any suggestions as to the swap or where to obtain a carb and is intake manifiold swap necessary too?
 RE: Carb replacement -- raycfe, 12/23/2004
Easy swap..Cast iron ford intakes not expensive, but weight alot so shipping would be high. But a nice new alum intake and a holley would be sweet.$
 RE: Carb replacement -- giacamo, 12/23/2004
please use a 4v intake the 4barrel on a 2v intake never seams to work worth a dam about any carb up to 650 cfm with the right bolt pateran would work depending on your engins neads
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23582&Reply=23575><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Carb replacement</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dano, <i>12/23/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>There is a place called Pony Carburetors Inc.  www.ponycarburetors.com that sells rebuilt Autolite and Motorcraft carbs.  Believe it or not, the factory Ford carbs when in good condition perform very well.   </blockquote> RE: Carb replacement -- Dano, 12/23/2004
There is a place called Pony Carburetors Inc. www.ponycarburetors.com that sells rebuilt Autolite and Motorcraft carbs. Believe it or not, the factory Ford carbs when in good condition perform very well.
 RE: Carb replacement -- Ken Powers, 12/23/2004
Thanks Dano, that's exactly what I'm looking for
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23574&Reply=23574><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390GT Exhaust Installation Parts...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>richard, <i>12/22/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Getting ready to reinstall the exhaust system.  68 390GT.  At the manifold to H pipe there is a solid cast metal "spacer" about 1 1/2" thick (I think it replaces a flapper type valve).<br><br>The spacer is flat on one side and dished on the other.  There is a solid metal donut to go between the H pipe and spacer on the dished side, is this corect?  What goes between the flat of the spacer and the manifold face?  Special gasket? On the other side of the H pipe there is a mesh/asbsetosy looking donut, quite different to the one at the spacer.<br><br>My only reference (the NPD catalog) says the metal ring at both sides.  Will this seal properly, or require a bit of finesse to reuse and get a good seal?  Are both supposed to be the metal ring or the mesh/asbestosy type??<br> </blockquote> 390GT Exhaust Installation Parts... -- richard, 12/22/2004
Getting ready to reinstall the exhaust system. 68 390GT. At the manifold to H pipe there is a solid cast metal "spacer" about 1 1/2" thick (I think it replaces a flapper type valve).

The spacer is flat on one side and dished on the other. There is a solid metal donut to go between the H pipe and spacer on the dished side, is this corect? What goes between the flat of the spacer and the manifold face? Special gasket? On the other side of the H pipe there is a mesh/asbsetosy looking donut, quite different to the one at the spacer.

My only reference (the NPD catalog) says the metal ring at both sides. Will this seal properly, or require a bit of finesse to reuse and get a good seal? Are both supposed to be the metal ring or the mesh/asbestosy type??
 RE: 390GT Exhaust Installation Parts... -- giacamo, 12/23/2004
eather will work i like to use the metal insted of the mesh, if the manifold and exaust are in good shape asin no pitting and smouth. the flat pice that go,s on the exaust manifold should have a gasket betwean it, i,v sean them with and with out and work.
 2" Cog Belt pulleys for FE's & Fords -- John Davis, 12/22/2004
I talked to Ron, Owner of Black Mountian Percision Machine shop and he said he would build us a 2" cog Belt Pulley system for our 70 shelby GT 500 superstreet with ol Shel's Alum. 427. He builds this system for Chebbbys now . You can find him on the web.
It will be a while before we have ours made but I thought I would pass the word along if you guys want to get him started on a set for you! Can you imagine what there face will look like when you pop your hood with a set
of these on your motor! & NO, I don't work for Ron!! LOL!!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23571&Reply=23571><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Engine block ID</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>big dave, <i>12/22/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I tore apart a motor i thought was a 390, but the crank is a 360. The bore is 4.08 (a 390 with a .030 overbore), so it is a 360. however, there are no casting numbers or date codes on the exterior of the block with the exception of   66 427   behind the flexplate upside down. The block also has bosses used for oil return like that used in the 427 cammer. The block does not have cross bolted mains, or even the bosses for them, nor are the main webs reinforced like a 406, 427 or 428CJ. I am thoroughly stumped. It does have the 352 on the front.  </blockquote> Engine block ID -- big dave, 12/22/2004
I tore apart a motor i thought was a 390, but the crank is a 360. The bore is 4.08 (a 390 with a .030 overbore), so it is a 360. however, there are no casting numbers or date codes on the exterior of the block with the exception of 66 427 behind the flexplate upside down. The block also has bosses used for oil return like that used in the 427 cammer. The block does not have cross bolted mains, or even the bosses for them, nor are the main webs reinforced like a 406, 427 or 428CJ. I am thoroughly stumped. It does have the 352 on the front.
 RE: Engine block ID -- giacamo, 12/23/2004
you have a block that used some of the casting plates for the 427 to bad thay dittent use all of them, some times youl see blocks with this and that go figuer?
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