Do a search and find one of the companies in Alabama that handle out of state reg. Will cost you about $200. Unless you have a friend in a state that doesn't title older cars, such as Massachusetts.

have them powder coated it will fill the pits. i had a set of exhaust manifolds done and thay look great.........

http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/thread.asp?ID=88658

Hey blinker are you a member of the Fairlane club? Do you have an FE 'lane?

Please forgive me for blowin' some smoker here....I have proudly hanging on my shop wall a plaque from many years ago that indicates I was founding member #9. It was founded by Glenn Packard, Pennsylvania. It started out almost exclusively as HP289 Fairlane club but quickly moved to include big block or actually any Fairlane. I supported that. I was the first "tech advisor" for the Big Block '66/'67 Fairlane/Comets. I thought I knew so much way back then. I've only learned in recent years how much I didn't know and continue to learn.

Thanks for sharing the info and I'm glad the club is doing well. What a great time that would be to be in Dearborn this summer.

#1698. Founding member? I feel like I've been talking to Franklin, Jefferson, etc.
I wonder when you drop out if someone else gets your #9, or if you rejoined if you would get it back.
'69 Cobra, "Sportsroof"c/6 auto, ram air column shift, and for some stupid reason, a open 3.50 differential.

Man...I'm in the deep south.Nothing close by here.They keep telling me this is Chevy country but I keep trying to prove them wrong.

n/m

There's the "F" head and the "Big F" head. Could you elaborate on your question a bit more so we might hit on a pertinent response?

Shoe.

what kind of motor are you buliding?? if a fe heres some info. the h heads are 1968 pickup 2v heads, the g heads are off a 390 or 427, these are 4v and we put these on our 427s.

All FE cast cranks are made of the same nodular iron. The balance is probably the only difference. 3U is listed as a 1973-76 FE 390 crank. The books are generally wrong on part number identifications, but this one sounds pretty close.

Shoe.

the 2u and 3u are twins.

All the FE rods are the same. The C7AE-B were sometimes drilled to fit 13/32" bolts, but were usually drilled for the 3/8" bolt and stuck in millions of 390s. Your C6 rods are exactly the same, just an earlier tool. If they originally came on a 1966 428PI then they would have been drilled to fit the 13/32" bolt, bout were likely drilled to fit the 3/8" bolt. If you install ARP 3/8" bolts and have the rods resized for proper roundness at the higher clamping force of the ARP bolts, then you've got some killer street rods which outperform the PI/CJ rods.

The heads are C6AE-6090-R and are the much like CJ heads and were found randomly on maybe a third of the FEs from 1966 to early 1967. Just as CJ heads were cast to fit standard FE valves and then throat dressed to fit CJ valves, your C6AE-R heads can take the CJ valves in identical fashion.

There is a 1/4" tall lip in the ceiling of the exhaust port, located at the most external 1/2" of the port in order to properly match the excessively conservative Fairlane 390 exhaust manifold. Just grind the lip off and you've got the CJ-equivalent head.

Compression seems a bit steep for the street, but that's a whole different conversation.

Be careful that your block is a genuine 428, or else a heavy cylinder 361/391, as there is a lot of false data claiming C6ME-whatever blocks are 428 blocks. In fact, C6ME-whatever blocks were used in 428 applications, just as they were used in 352, 360, 390, 410, 330, 361, 391, and even some 427 applications. External markings are artificial. There are ways to determine which block you really have (search "drill bit test"). You DON'T want to make a powerful engine out of an overbored 390 block that is pretending to be a 428.

Beware, the books on the FE are wrong, particularly regarding oil mods. The only weak spot in the FE's stock oiling system is in the capacity of the oil pan in high performance applications. It's a truely great oiling system for a stock FE, as the longevity and very slow wear of stock engines has proven many millions of times.

Be sure to search the forum to find critical arguments and answers on building an FE.

Shoe.

Thanks Dave you have been a great help,i am a gm big block buy not to much expeirence with fe motors,and i have been told 11.0 might be a bit much for this motor.This is definately a 428 with the big a cast into the block is standard bore also cast# 1U on the crank.Thanks Again how about a bit of info on a good cam for this motor going in a 69 mach 1 350 posi rear diff with a c-6 auto trans with 2800 high stahl.

I don't know about chrome headers. I don't think they'd ofrer much value, except as a "show" option.

Ceramic supposedly keeps the engine area a little bit cooler. Since header fit in an FE car can be tough, you may want to realize a few dents might be needed to properly fit the headers, and this might be frustrating to do to ceramic headers, since it sorta screws up the looks of the finish.

FPA makes a great heder for the FE. The Tri-Y design generally fits better and easier than any other. FPA also understands the port mach issues of hte FE, so be sure to tell them the head casting number of your heads before you buy (most often located between the center spark plugs).

If you don't think you need ceramic, you probably don't. It's so much more fun to drive a lower-cost rig than an extra expensive one, that I'm inclined to dig the cheap black painted version most.

Shoe.

n/m