I've never come close to matching FE paint using a spray can. Once, after getting fed up with never NEVER finding the rich shade I sought, I went out and searched out over a dozen cans of Ford medium blue paint. Even after buying a telephone-guaranteed correct can of "Ford Medium Blue" spray paint from National Parts Depot I was disappointed. I rejected the NPD paint because it hade same label and can markings as one I'd just bought locally which failed the test, but NPDs paint guarantee is self-expiring upon delivery. Even if the can was never opened you get the standard "how did you know it's the wrong color" grilling over the phone, with the insinuation that you're trying to return a can uf used paint. I've not gone back to NPD since they inappropriately chewed me out.

It seems there are maybe three standard shades of blue spray paint commercially available and each color is relabeled and used for any car company that uses a "similar" blue.

It's probably best if you rename any "Ford blue" spray can labels to "generic blue" or "DeSoto blue" just so you get the right impression.

Spray paint companies want to sell cans of cheap paint, not cans of color matched paint. Cheap paint is what keeps spray can companies in business. Spray paint also has issues with sticking to the engine and dealing with oil.

PPG is the company that made the original Ford paint, and today Ditzler/PPG is the company to go to for a can of paint. It'll need to be applied with a sprayer, but the color is the one you seek.

Next step is to determine the exact shade. SuperFord magazine listed the proper formulations (one at a time) in various articles, but I don't have speedy access to those magazines right now. Possibly a forum search for the term "Ditzler" might turn something up. Maybe Mr. F knows the Ditzler details. Most likely, Ditzler/PPG sales reps may be able to help you find the color, though you shouldn't be surprised if a PPG paint rep doesn't quite understand the needs of a 40 year old car.

Good luck with the search.

Shoe.

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=16150&Reply=16072

I use Napa's Ford Blue #627 Engine Paint, seems to match perfectly. Plus, when you've got people like Barrett Jackson selling R-code Mach's with the totally incorrect shaker assembly as "certified true and correct SCJ engine", what's in a shade of blue.

Check this out, punch on the underhood photo...what's wrong with this picture?!

http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/cardetail.asp?id=172855

You can buy and temporarily install a mechanical oil pressure gage. They are fairly inexpensive.

Remove the gas cap and try it again. The gas tank could have a vacuum building up in it if the vents to the tank aren't letting air into the tank while the car is running. A car that has sat that long will no doubt have a major mess in the gas tank and will clog everything up for a while until it all gets flushed out.

My 64 Galaxie sat for almost 20 years, adn the biggest problems I have are a pinholed gas tank adn fuel line hose sections that have sucked closed and will not pass any fuel. I believe this may be your main problem, as they would allow fuel to flow until the demand goes up then crimp themselves shut. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump, run a lenght of rubber hose out to a point where you can put an electric fuel pump and a gas can and try running it on that.
The real fix is to drop the fuel tank, drain adn flush it, and replace all the rubber hose sections with new hose. Change the fuel filter at the carb (or inline). Also change the filter on the fuel pump, if so equiped.

a 390 cast crank will work fine for most aps up to 500 hp in a 427. i try to leave the hi priced forged cranks for all out racing aps . one of my faverite 390 cranks is the standerd 2u series later 1960,s cranks i have found theas cranks to be machined near perfect and most of the time ballance to be perfect or very close to perfect. some one at ford had thear s,, together on them.so i feal the 390 cast crank to tuffer then most think.and not a searious draw back.......

No, Russ, Edelbrock is just the most AVAILABLE FE aluminum head. Dove also makes FE heads but whether you can get them is another question. There is also the option of using factory 428 CJ heads.

You have many issues in the balance. First, due to their thermal efficiency, aluminum heads pull heat more easily out of the combustion chamber. This has two effects: 1) They are less detonation prone than iron heads using the same compression ratio, and; 2) The produce less power than iron heads with the same compression since the heat energy that could be used to push down on the piston is being transferred to the coolant.

So, theoretically, you'd be looking at a horsepower loss with the slight reduction in compression and the loss of heat energy with aluminum.

But it's not quite that simple -and it never is. What you loose in thermal energy from both the compression and material you gain in airflow. Power is always in the heads and the Edelbrocks are far superior to the factory iron 390 heads. And the power gain is pretty much across the rpm range. The engine won't make power beyond where it does right now, as in increasing your redline, but they will punch it up -particularly in the midrange.

Hookers do fit the Edelbrocks quite well as they are the 16-bolt Cobra Jet flange pattern and port location. If you keep your factory C6AE-R heads, then you'll want to look to the FPA headers.

an electric fan with a thermo on and off switch should not be a problem. You can do an altenator upgrade later, I would shop for one at a electrical rebuilder usally the best deal and you know what you are getting.

blue or black if it,s dark blue interior.

Hooker gaskets are readily available, just go to their website and whip out your VISA card. Hooker headers fit the Ed heads well (Hooker car headers fit poorly on most 1966-later FE heads, the exceptions being a great fit on C6AE-R and CJ heads), and when the correct gasket is used, the seal will be tops. You'll want to resnug the bolts after a few days and a few weeks, but once the gasket has taken a set, it's good.

I've not found Felpro or Mr. Gasket gaskets that even come close to matching the ports if the FE.

JMO,
Shoe.

Here's the link.
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/Headers.htm
I have them in my T-bird and love 'em.

The kickdown rod assembly is unique to the 390 Fairlane, Frank. Good luck finding an exact replacement as they are not available aftermarket and what shows up on eBay is infrequent and expensive. You'll also not be able to cobble up something easily since the function with the bellcrank makes it difficult for even a skilled fabricator to create one.

Now, the good news. Unless you are looking for a factory-correct application, you can buy the C6 kickdown cable-operated set up from Lokar. It attaches to a carburetor bracket and to the carburetor, then to the transmission. In my opinion, this is a far easier and more functional method for the C6 kickdown since it is insensitive to engine location and torque-over. It may also be a good oportunity to do a throttle cable conversion at the same time a ditch the rod/bellcrank assembly.

While it's possible your block was drilled for hydraulics and the crossover passages had plugs installed for solids, most likely the blocks never had the hydraulic lifter passages drilled out.

I don't believe it's possible to use hydraulics in that engine.

Shoe.

soory but the grille works 67-69, but i still need one.