Thanks for posting this Mr F. Interesting. Nothing really ever changes does it.

Aside from the oil pan, the productuion FE has a great oiling system. While front-sump oil pans can be problematic in any fast accelerating vehicle if not baffled to contain the oil on launch, stock pans are fine in stock FE engines.

FE oiling problems are most often traced to installing an aftermarket oil pump while not first changing the oil pan to an aftermarket performance pan.

Be careful of some "FE" books, as the author George Reid will steer you wrong around EVERY bend (I just reviewed his book again last night to determine whether I might be being a bit harsh, but I'm not), and most other FE books typically fail to mention the critical need for installation of an aftermarket oil pan prior to ANY oiling mods.

Be forwarned - If your book discusses oiling mods but does not first EMPHASIZE the need to replace the oil pan - then all the oiling info is bogus. A bad and dangerous foumula. MAny an FE has died following the "oiling upgrades" found in popular FE books, because they don't work. They are not properly balanced.

Tell us more about what lead to your meltdown. Specifically, what condition was your initial engine in (stock, modified) and what lead up to the failure. I think we can pinpoint the failure so you don't reassemble the same improper modification into a fresh build.

Topoiler FEs are bad assed race-ready engines if the oiling system isn't improperly modified. The stock oiling system is superbe, despite what some hack writers will tell you.

Shoe.

Glenn i allways tap all the oil gallery plug holes and install allen plugs and i use a dab of indienhead gasket salack on the theads never had a leak.to remove plugs just heat with propane torch out thay come.i toss the jiggel valve if the cam bearings are instaled corect the timeing chane gets plenty of oil.....

some 15x8 are on my dad 65 but you could stick some 17s under there but it doesnt look like a muscle car any more.

you problie have a lifter in nead of adjustment after run in not out to bad but enouf to make noise after a run.did your moter vibrate be for you worked on it?what cam did you install?some hot cams will make the engin shutter alittel till it gets to operating rpm.s.

i dont know about the 428 cj but i know 2 guys in the late 60,s that ran fe,s in stock cars 390,s &352,s who tryed the extra quart stunt and just had a big fomie mess.....but it might work with a windage tray?

u may have to just try them and see which gives u a better pattern on the valve tip/ by using a "sharpie" mark top of valve install rocker components and rotate engine several times- scuff mark should be directly center as possible on valve tip/ if mark is on the far side of push rod; push rod too long if mark is closer to push rod; push rod is too short

all hp pumps i,v ran allways trash out the dist. and cam gear but the melling m57hv have gave me good service.the hp pumps may work in 406 and 427 aps with the extra press releaf valve in the block? i have never had my heads flood with oil or used restricters.i try to use the early tipe rocker tin that funnels the oil down beside the pushrods it,s a littel bit balkie and some times you have to play with it so your push rods dont rub.but thay work.and i.v used the later tin and had no problem ? maybe lucky.but alot of fe fans say no to hv pumps.?but melling ben good to me.

I run the HV in my stock 390. No problems. Point of information: I called my auto parts place to order the Melling M57HV and he told me that Melling makes them all no matter who's label is on the box. Sure enough, I got a generic brand name box with a melling pump in it.

It will live its life merrily in the bottom of the water jacket. There's not enough circulation turbulence or pressure to send it anywhere else and even if there was, it would at the very most get caught in the thermostat or the radiator. The washer will never reach a critical mechanical component.

don,t worie to much i,v tor down old running moters that wer getting rebilt that had pices of t stats springs bolts washers extra freez plugs big chunkes of gaskets casting slag all thease things wer not the reason for a rebild......

Of couse you could, but it is a extremly tight fit. Removed mine this summer. Did take a week to get them out of the car...
I would never have headers in my car again.

John

i have a set of hooker super comps on my cyclone thay are a nightmare i use stock on every thing else i just use headers for racing.

Since their header flange for the FPA header actually fits the 14-bolt unibody exhaust port location and bolt pattern. The Hookers are very "iffy" on port alignment and flange fit and are prone to blowing gaskets when using the factory unibody heads. The Hookers fit the Edelbrock heads great but, again, not the factory heads.

Be prepared to fully exercise your explitives since the entire process of removing manifolds and fitting headers on a unibody with an FE is difficult at the very least. But the payoff is tremendous horsepower increase.

n/m