I suspect the lifter passages have been drilled for hydraulic lifters. If, however, the passage crossovers are blocked with the Ford-type plug (i.e.: a factory installed solid cam), it's posible the blocks were commissioned for an industrial application of some sort. There is a teeny chance the displacement could extend outside the 360 thru 391 limits I previously mentioned if this is so.

Hey, that reminds me, I once again dissed the good old 330FT block. If the block turns out to fit a 15/64" feeler gauge betwen the cylinders, it could be a 360/390 FE block, or a 330FT block.

Just my observations. Keep in mind I err with frequency.

Shoe.

never was and never will be. don't even bother pulling the starter to check as it is a total waste of time. numbers behind the starter is a small block, 365/385 phenomenon. the FE's from 68-71 very often have no identifying numbers on them. even if it had numbers it would not tell you what it is because the numbers ford used in those years could be any size engine. the only way to identify a 68-71 FE engine is to check the crank numbers and the bore size. hawkrod

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Check with a machine shop on bore limits.

your D4TE block may be a candidate for over bore to 4.13 (428 ci). Search for Shoe's drill bit test to determine if it is worth sonic testing. That block should have the extra rib on the main webs too. Since you already have the 428 crank, it may be an easy task to get a 428 out of your combination of crank and block. You would have to get pistons. It doesn't take much time to research this option and determine if it is a possiblity and if you don't do it now while you have it all apart, you'll regret it later when you have it all back together and in the car.

Get a single vacuum advance unit made by Accel, they are available from Summit (1-800-230-3030). The Accel unit is adjustable and costs around $35.00.

Time the engine to have around 10 degrees advance at 600 RPM with all vacuum connections plugged. With everything hooked up something like 42 - 48 degrees total works well. The vacuum advance portion should be about 10 degrees. Remember, the vacuum advance goes away at WOT under load so actual loaded timing is around 34 - 38 degrees ideally. The ability of the vacuum can to go to the 42-48 degree range at part throttle gives significant fuel economy improvement and better drivability than a straight mechanical advance distributor. It also allows for a much cooler running engine.

Search the index for vacuum advance and see numerous other posts on this subject.

Royce Peterson

I think a lot of things should be checked before you tear the engine down. As Mark says, a lot of driveline problems can seem like engine vibration. Tire imbalance also comes to mind. So does an engine vacumn leak and ignition problems. But assuming something is coming loose inside and you want an answer to your question about re-using rings. I wouldn't. Bearings, sure (though with all the effort to tear the engine down....new bearings are a cheap help), but not rings. De-glaze the cylinders with a ball-hone or a straight 3-stone hone and fit new rings. Why? Because the ring lands on the pistons should be scrupuously clean, and if you put the piston back in, then you are asking for trouble should some carbon have gotten in there during dissasembly. Don't like that reason?...well then...do it because nobody is sure and better safe than sorry. The only type of engine I would re-use rings in is a lawn-mower engine...a good old Briggs and Stratton. The smoke in the exhaust helps keep the mosquitoes away.

Kida proud i guess... LoL!

Here's an old photo of the record holding Galaxie lightweight. Car has 853 original miles and sits basically as it did when it set the record for 1/8 and 1/4 mile.

[Post edited by Admin.]

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I friend in San Francisco bought a very nice restored, unmodified '64 4 spd lightweight ( I believe it was Dick Brannan's car) last year from the Reggie Jackson collection. The car is not a 100 point correct resto (close, though) but it has the very rare original fiberglass air ducts to the air bonnet. He paid $46,000 for it
--Mike

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you want long?, try searching for the answers that have been given already on this site before. I gave a detailed explanation on how to check all components, the work that is needed, many home "how to's", and procedures to break in a new engine a year or more ago. I have not really used the search feature, so am not sure if its still on here, maybe the host can help. If you have not yet disassembled the engine. there are signs to look for. First, did you have a problem? A compression test would have given you any clue. Looking for trouble spots always helps if you have someone experianced in rebuilding, and especially machining engines available to you. You might be able to get a local racer to help, as they are forced into this quite often. I would suggest going to a stock car track, and find a racer who is near the top of his class. A case of beer, or some other "bribe" would help. Check the core plug holes for cracks. This is a common spot, and they can be repaired, (as can all cracks). Check the side clearance on the rods before taking it apart, as well as the end play in the crank. Measure how much ring ridge there is, and how far down it goes. Check the deck surface for discoloring from combustion or coolant leaks. Does the crank spin freely just turning it by hand?, it should before and after assembly. Make sure that the main caps are a tight fit to the block registers. You should not be able to pull them off without a fight, and have to "snap" them back on with your fist. Try and twist the rods and push them back and forth parallel to the pin on the pistons to see how much play there is. This needs to be checked on a rod fixture anyway, but will give you an idea if one is particularly bad. Insert a feeler gauge below the top ring while holding the ring in as if it were compressed in the cylinder. If you can get a .003-4 in there, its shot. this is as critical as the wall finish for sealing. Mic the ring to make sure it is not too worn to give an accurate reading, (new ones are .078 thick, and as they wear, they wear on the top side and wear off the phosphate coating, and form a ridge). Put a second ring in there, if the top one is worn. The tops of the valve stem tips should all be the same height, if not, then there is a seat wear issue, or a valve that has stretched (not very likely unless you leaned out the engine while running hard). There is lots more, but I could write a book, and thats been done too many times. The shop equipment varies, as do the people and their procedures. I've had new state of the art equipment, and its nice, however the old stuff can get the job done just fine, but is slower, its all up to the machinist, and if he cares about you, and himslf, and reputation. A pressure tester, and a wet mag (a booth with a black light, and a pump with fluid) are the kinds of serious pieces to look for. A Sunnen CV 616, (best) or a CK 10 are what the better shops have if you need to have it bored. A line hone is also a very good idea for any engine. The rod machine of choice is a Sunnen "Powerstroker". Be prepard to replace all of the valve train components, like rockers, shafts, and pushrods. Get a windage tray and heavy duty oil pump drive shaft no matter what. All engines wear out, not in. It just depends on who does it, and how, along with proper assembly and maintenance. I know people that cant ever seem to get a 100,000 miles out of anything, as well as some that get 3-4 times that. The same applied to drivers of fleet trucks I maintained. I also knew plenty of hi-dollar racers that would lose their engine before getting off the trailor, never failed to amaze/amuse me. Good luck, and go slowly upon assembly. Cleanliness is better than godliness, as you cant take the engines name in vain when something goes wrong.

I live near there and have used Automotive Machine Shop off of Liberty street. They do good work, but I have been surprised at their prices compared to other shops. They are not Ford people. They are more geared toward GM, Mopar and such. So, don't ask them for advice on what a Ford engine needs for better perfomance or remedies for typical block or head problems.
I have also used Golden Shamrock off of Old Salsbury road. They are a performance shop and may be slow to get to your stuff since they cater to the racers. They seem to know the details on just about any engine.
There is another shop near Pilot Mountain, but I haven't used them myself. I have friends that have and are pleased with the work they have done for them as well as the prices. I will have to get a name for you on this one.
Hope this helps.