http://fomoco.com/index.asp?Dept=5&Page=SelectArea

Im on the Peninsula with a '61Tbird 390FE
Im inclined to talk with:
Al Liest
Machine Shop Service
415-342-6196
1007 Howard Ave
San Mateo CA 94401

He's an old timer who's built a lot of drag engines, any performance. Very good reputation.
He's probably familiar with all the quirks and remedies of FE oil passage.

Or, Call up Vic Hubbard in Hayward for references.
www.vichubbard.com

Al Hubbard Machine on Meekland ave in Hayward, Talk to Wade, he knows Fords well. He has done alot of machine work for me in the past.

lots of differnt kinds, casting numbers and date codes are important to determine value as is condition. some are not worth the time it takes to carry them to the dumpster while others will have people beating your doors down. we would need a lot more info before we can help you answer your question. hawkrod

You might want to do some further investigating on this one as many ebay sellers use obtuse and misleading language that allows you to lead yourself down whatever path you like and they won't stop you.

First, yes you can put 428 CJ/SCJ heads on a 390 and it will do just fine in both compression and airflow.

Now the problem, unless the ad explicitly says that the heads are CJ and provides the casting code and it reads C9OE-N then they are likely not CJ heads. Converted heads mean essentially they put 2.09/1.66 valves in a set of 390 or non-CJ 428 heads (like C8AE-H heads) which equals zilch as far as value go.

You need to get everything in writing before you lay out any cash and that includes guarantees that the thing is exactly what the seller claims or indicates it is without any conditions.

as it sounds like it could be a rear plug. If the seal leaks, it should have from the begining. The "sharp" side goes forward, and the ends need to be staggerd so they dont line up with the parting line of the cap to block surface. Which cap side seal set up do you have? There were differences in these too. Did you put a reverse taper cam plug in that is required? (looks opposite of the side core plugs). Do you have press in or screw in oil galley plugs? There are plenty of places that can leak on an FE. When you can seal these up, you can conquer the world, LOL.

Although Kevin is right and you should fully investigate the cause of the leak, the answer to your question is "No". Although others have claimed to do it, I cannot install the seal into the block with the crank in the way. I've tried oiling up the seal and sliding it around, but it just won't make it...not by a long shot. And that was on an engine stand when I had the crank mostly bolted in and suddenly noticed I had forgotten the rear seal. Plus, it's not easy to work with the required silicon and those tempermental side seals and nails while under the car.

I had a similar problem and it was not the seal but an oil galley plug that was leaking at a good rate.

Thanks for all the comments guys. I'm planning on getting the tranny out sometime this week to see what's really going on. Hopefully it's just a plug that's leaking/something that can be fixed without pulling the engine....If not, I have another project to do! Thanks again.

I am currently in the process of putting the C6 back in place after checking the oil plugs on the rear of the block on a customers rebuilt 390. While the back of the intake was a little wet from oil, I just knew there was no way the rear of the intake could leak this much oil.

Surprise, surprise. After removing the flexplate and block plate, the back of the block around the oil plugs and even the rear main cap was dry. From the bottom with the trans removed, I could see how wet with oil that the rear of the intake actually was. While it was a lot of extra work, at least I I know where the oil is NOT coming from.

Diminished performance and the valve train noise makes me suspicious that you may have a cam problem, Greg. I don't like going to the throat right away but it is generally recognized that as long as your tune up is right and nothing has changed then it's probably your cam. Engine performance generally improves as the parts wear in. You should not have to re-lash the lifter preload so if it wasn't ticking before, then it shouldn't be ticking now unless your lobes are going flat. The exception here is that your rocker stud lash nuts are worn and they are starting to back off. If that's the case, then you could and will suffer the ticking and the reduced performance as well as some potential destruction of the lifter if the plunger has exceeded the plunger well and popped off the retaining clip.

But you first need to ensure that your timing and carburetion are working fine. It's fairly common for the points to close up a bit and the carburetor to pick up some debris in the fuel line. And, as you've already done, ensure that nothing has come loose. As to the head bolts, it depends on what head gaskets you used. There's no harm in checking the torque but I don't think you're going to find the solution there.

1965 was the year when passenger car 427's changed from center oiler to side oiler. Because of the relocated oil passage on the driver's side the motor mount bolt pattern is slightly different if you are talking about a side oiler. Center oiler 427's won't be a problem if they are 1965 or later.

The 1968 Cougar GTE had a special motor mount (block plate portion) to allow its side oiler to bolt in and that part will work on 1967 - 68 Mustangs also. However your chances of finding one are about the same asyour chances of finding out that Bill Gates is a long lost cousin.

The real answer is that you can fill in the lower hole on your driver's side 390 block plate by welding in a plug. Then you have to redrill the hole in the proper place. It is not a hard job.

1965 FE heads have only the up / down exhaust manifold bolt pattern so 390GT manifolds won't work. Hooker makes a good set of headers that will work on either pattern. FPA also makes some great headers.

Everything else bolts in place. The 390 and 427 use the same flywheel and the harmonic balancer from either will work although the 427 piece is preferred due to its heavier weight.

Royce Peterson

Calculations may show a 650 as OK, but careful tuning of the 750 should be better. Accelerator pump problems are the most significant issue here as the jets will be close right form the factory. I like a manual choke the best, but I find Holley's don't need a choke at all. Just pump the pedal a bit while cranking, then keep the throttle just above idle for 1/2 a minute and you're set to go. And I live in a cold climate! I use twin 650s with no carb problems. I also use a single plane manifold with no problems, other than the sometimes backfiring out of the exhaust on de-acceleration which I think is due to balls of fuel gathering around the intake as the ports are very poorly matched.

from 67 to 70. In 71, it was all changed, as the steering box became an integral style to eliminate the PS assist (slave) cylinder found on previous years. 64-1/2 thru 66 had less track width and are too narrow. The 71-up is wider, and redesigned, and the steering box is too big, and would interfere with the exhaust if you were to try to make it work. The steering boxes, A-frames, spindles, and brakes off a Cougar, Fairlane, Cyclone, Falcon will work, but the tie rods, and drag link are track width specific. There was a difference in the disc brake set up for 68 and up (single piston sliding caliper) instead of the four piston rigid mount (which is far better if set up right), but you can retrofit the earlier ones to yours if you find them. There were different master cylinders too. There is also a difference in the sector shaft diameter and the pitman arm which need to be compatible to work. Whatever you end up with, make sure you buy an idler arm that is of the "gusher bearing" design as offered by Moog, along with the steel lined strut rod bushings. Your 200 car probably has the small sector box (the difference is only 1/16th I believe) and if you have manual steeing, yu are blessed, believe me. That 3.00 gear belongs in grandma's car. Yours probably had the 8" to begin with. Look for a truck of those years with a 6 cylinder, and maybe you will find a 3.70 which is a good compromise and will make your 390 feel a whole lot better. You should consider headers that are properly matched to those small port heads to feel some semblance of power. Nothing else will give you more bang for the buck, as those stock GT manifolds are the worst of all FE ones ever made. A good oil pan and windage tray will help keep it all alive.