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 |  4-Speed or 5-Speed The Classic Debate -- Wilson, 09/11/2002
I am preparing to drop a 390 into a 68 GT Fastback. I am sorta in a dillema at the moment. 4 Speed or 5 Speed. I am hoping to be pushing close to 600 horses and I was told a 5 wont hold it. Is this true? Which do you think is better? How much more is a 5 Speed going to cost? Where can I find one? If I get a 4 Speed I was planning on getting a Borg-Warner Super T-10 with really low gear ratios. Any idea where I can get one of these and a low speed rear end out of a mustang? Thanks for all the help. |
 | Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Harry, 09/11/2002
I have a '67 Galaxie 500, with a FE 390, and a C6. I have been toying with the idea of geting a new-to-me (or completely new, if i find some money) block, or modifying my current one. Any suggustions (new blocks, boar/stroke kits, pistons, heads, exhaust, carb etc...). Also, is there any way to convert this to a manual, I have a front bench seat, so I would probably have to use a tree shifter, but has it been done, and is there any good way to convert it?
Did the Galaxies ever come with a 9" rear, or a LSD?
The car is completely stock at the moment, asside from some carpeting which i bought after market to fix the peg leg holes that the origional driver left for me.
thanks in advance |
| | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Travis Miller, 09/12/2002
Too heavy a car for serious acceleration. Not much resale value.
However if you want a good cruiser, try rebuilding the 390 with flat top pistons, Edelbrock aluminum intake, small hydraulic cam, and Hooker headers. Will make an enjoyable ride if you add AC. |
| |  | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Stroker FE, 09/15/2002
Too heavy a car?? No resale value?? Dont listen to this clown. I got a street and strip 66 Galaxie 500 XL that is quick, 375 hp 390 thats on the street all the time in the summer and is just as fast as a new Cobra Mustang. And this car is worth more now than stock. Its apraised for 14,500. Real bad resale value, LOL. Sure its not light as a mustang, but its not heavy like a Lincoln. Dont let iddiots tell you Galaxies are almost worthless, look in the Old cars price guide and find that these Galaxies in #3 or better have a good value. |
| | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- GCF, 09/12/2002
This might be the wrong forum to post this, but here goes. Don't bother with the 390 and your present C6; pull them out, sell 'em and get you a 460 and C6. (The 460 and 390 have different bolt patterns on the bellhousing so your trans won't work.) Dearborn Classics has motor mounts, (www.dearbornclassics.com, part #ELK12 @ $229.95), and the new trans will use your present linkage and crossmember. You'll have a lot better starting point for making power. Check your rear axle again, it might already be a 9". Keep your bench seat, column shift and use a quiet exhaust....make this thing a sleeper. |
| | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- BobSprowl, 09/12/2002
Please ignore GCF. Switching motor families is not cheap. Besides the transmission you will need different exhaust header pipes, engine accesory brackets, and motor mounts.
And every '66 Galaxie has a 9 inch or bigger rear axle. |
| | | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Harry, 09/12/2002
mine is the '67... would it still have the 9 inch you referred to on the 66's?
also, the thought of completely switching blocks had occured to me (i was thinking of a crate of some sort, if i won the lottery or something). my only problem is that if i switch, it costs alot at first... its not a gradual approach....
also, i planned on probably needing new headers anyway, i have the stock manafolds, and they get the job done, but headers would be nicer,,, |
| | | | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- BobSprowl, 09/16/2002
All Ford and Mercury big cars including T-Birds and Lincolns and Galaxies from '58 through '72 had 9 or 9-3/8 inch rear ends. |
| | | | |  | No they weren't either. -- GCF, 09/17/2002
To quote Hot Rod magazine Techs and Tips 2000 issue: "Beginning in 1967, some fullsize Fords were fitted with an axle that service books listed as an 8.8". Though outward appearance is similar to the later 5.0L Mustang style 8.8, internal parts are not interchangeable (or readily available). Avoid it for performance use."
You'll recognize this rear by the inspection plate on the back side of the axle housing. My '70 Galaxie has one of these and looks all the world like a GM rear axle. |
| | | | As I said.....wrong forum (n/m) -- GCF, 09/13/2002
n/m |
| | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Tim B, 09/12/2002
Edelbrock has a 390 package that will wake it up. A 3 or 4 speed maual trans would not be impossible to find. The floor shifter would still work with the bench seat. On the other hand a column shift would be very hard to find.
Tim B |
| | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Harry, 09/12/2002
I know that Edelbrock made a package for the T-Bird. So the parts are similer... How much can i scavange for my Gal off of birds? Powertrain componants (engine, trans, rearend, axles and all their associates) are waht i would assume, but is anything else compatable?
I'm almost glad that a column shift would be hard to find. I had to drive one once, and i simply couldnt. Name some of the 3/4/5 speed manuals that would work for various blocks, and how would i go about modifying my interior so that i could shift (im assuming i would have to have a rather long shifter, almost similer to an old manual bus.) |
| | | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Stroker FE, 09/15/2002
Yes you have a 9 inch rear. I would not even think of a 385 series,(a 460) they are a lot heavyier than a FE. If you go with a 390 put in a stout cam, like one with a 536 lift, Edelbrock heads, (they are about 1200 bucks complete, Edelbrock 427 performer intake, C8AE-H heads mildly ported and polished with a 3 angle grind on the valves, a 770 Holley Street Advenger carb. That C-6 KEEP IT, you will lose about 60 HP to the rear wheels but C-6s are very durable and almost bulletproof. I'd put in a 2700 to 3000 stall converter with a shift kit. The rear I'd go with a 4:11 with a posy, and change the 28 spline axles and get 31 splines for durabillity. Strange makes very good axles. You can order all this from Summit or Jegs, and others. This is pretty much the setup I have in my 66 XL and I love it. The only problem is trying to drive 70 on the freeway with the 4:11s, I go 55 when driving to shows or the dragstrip. I also suggest going to www.fordfe.com. SOME of these guys are FE guros and have helped me out bigtime!! Theres a lot of info there on our cars and FEs, you wont be sorry. |
| | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Travis Miller, 09/14/2002
The idea of using a stick trans will be shelved as soon as you realize that clutch linkage is virtually impossible to find for a '67 Galaxie. While the clutch pedal from a small block will fit, the rest must be for a FE. Anyone who has seen the original '65 thru '67 Galaxie FE clutch linkage can tell you how complicated it is. Take my advice and use the C6 automatic.
I just installed a set of Hooker headers on a '66 Galaxie with a 390 for a customer. They fit great. Forget using the stock flat exhaust manifolds. They are very poor flowing and will seriously limit power regarding any modifications you make to a 390. |
| | | Quoted from CPI Value Guide -- Travis Miller, 09/15/2002
The following is quoted directly from the CPI Value Guide:
Fair Condition - Presentable condition. Runs and drives and will pass a state inspection. Maybe be driven on a daily basis. Generally in need of a cosmetic restoration, but not a "basket case", or parts car. There are many cars on the road that fall below CPI's "fair" category, and will be priced accordingly. These are commonly referred to as "beaters" and usually not worth restoring, as the restoration costs will almost certainly exceed the value of the finished vehicle.
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| | |  | Ok, but condition wasn't the issue - just overall market. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/15/2002
n/m |
| | | | RE: Quoted from CPI Value Guide -- hawkrod, 09/16/2002
the other problem with the value guides is they are based on market results (primarily auction) that are extrapolated into market values. the big cars are showing good in price guides but not in the real market. why? because of the volume and examples that are sold to establish values. in the case of a galaxie, very few have crossed the block and of those most are specialty cars like LTD's with 428's or 7 Litre cars or even real 427 cars. for example lets say 5 cars have crossed the block; one is a 427 XL, two are 7 litres, one is a 428 LTD and one is a lead sled. the average market value of the 5 is 15,000. they take that value and condition of the cars and look at engines and see the 427 was worth 2,000 more than the 428 and that the sled was a 390 but was only 200 less than the 428 cars. they have now determined that a number one car is worth 14,800 and the 428 is worth a premium of 200 and the 427 carries a premium of 2,000. using this info and market curves for more popular cars averaged together they determine a #2 is worth 15% less than a #1 and so on and so forth. the reality is the market isn't really that strong because the sales for the year did not represent a good cross sampling of the cars out there. i deal with this every day as this is the business i am in and some of the other posts are right, and a Galaxie built right will have more invested under the hood than the total resale value of the car (that is true of most run of the mill cars though). hawkrod |
| | | | | Oddly enough, its true of most 'restored' Mustangs, too. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/16/2002
n/m |
| | | | | RE: 9" vs. spicer/C-6 vs. cruiso -- Mike McQuesten, 09/16/2002
I'm finally going to toss in a comment or two on this long and rather strange thread to help Harry out.
First, your '67 Galactic Warrior may be equipped with a light duty spicer style differential. Very strange but true. I've seen it with my own eyes but I will say it was a 289/C-4 powertrain in a '67 Galaxie. And the '67 Shop Manual shows pics of this very weak sister rear end. So Harry, you may have this diff back there in your '67 if it's a '67 390-2V. I would speculate(I don't say nothin' is a fact anymore)that your big boy has the 9" rear set up being that's it's factory equipped with the FE.
Now for the automatic trans...it very well may be a FMX-cruisomatic with the improved for '67 valve body that allowed for a shift pattern of 1 - 2 - D just like the C-6 that was introduced in '66. This is something I learned from reading this forum last year. I had always ASS-U-MED that all Galaxies by '67 equipped with any FE from 2V to 4V got the much stronger/better C-6. Oh no....many 2V 390 '67 Galaxies got the "changed valve body" old cruisomatic. I again looked at my trusty Shop Manual and there it was.
That's all I got on this one 'cept I didn't like references made as to clowns & idiots. One of the many things I've liked about this forum is the lack of ego/attitudes and the friendly helpful nature that has always been prevalent. And to replace an FE powered car with a big old hunk-o-Lima 385 series.....oh that gets me goin'.
Good luck Harry, Galaxies Go!! |
| | | | | | oh, so now your saying i don't have an ego.. -- hawkrod, 09/16/2002
or attitude? obviously i will have to take exception to that and throw down the gauntlet (or my welding gloves), you my good man have been challenged. LOL, hawkrod |
| | | | | | | "All you need in life is....... -- kevin, 09/16/2002
a big ego, and a high sex drive. Brains dont mean sh$t" LOL. Lima, isnt that where they build locomotive's? LOL. |
| | | | | | | Well I guess someone is deleting my response... -- kevin, 09/16/2002
so Tom, if you want it, see the other forum. |
| | | | | | | | Nothing's been deleted. Set your browser to refresh more often. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/17/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | | RE: 9"vs spicer/c6vs.cruiso -- Trevor C., 09/17/2002
Very good. You are absolutely correct. Listen to Mike, he knows what he is talking about. Harry, I have a 67 galaxie: Here's the rundown on her: 390-Milodon deep sump oil pan, high volume oil pump,aftermarket pump shaft, 268h comp cam with valve springs to match,forged pistons, 60 over,performer intake, 750 holley vacuum sec., pertronix ignition, fpa shorty headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust with flow masters dumps in front of rear axle, k&n air filter, electric fuel pump, fuel cell, cool can,ford motor sports plug wires, electric cooling fan, battery in the trunk, brand new suspension, taller than stock rear coils, weld racing rod lite wheels 6 inch in the front, 8inch wide in the rear, 275/60r15 bfg drag radials, c6 stock with a 2500 stall, trans cooler drive shaft loop, 9 inch with 411 detroit locker, b&m quick silver shifter. Car weighs 4100 pounds and it runs high 13's consistently. It is a blast to drive and I would strongly recommend any body looking for alot of fun to drive type car to build one. Hope this helps. p.s. thats with crappy non ported 70's truck heads. |
| | | | | | | RE: wait...what block # was that? -- Mike McQuesten, 09/17/2002
Was that a DOAE....FE block? hawkrod with an attitude & ego? Nah. You've kindly indicated the errors in my ways a few times. I remember claiming there to be no '68 'birds w/FEs. I received a nice dose of humility on that one. And it nevers seems to stop. |
| | | | | RE: Quoted from CPI Value Guide -- Stroker FE, 09/17/2002
Old Cars price guide is what A lot of us go by. Ive seen some prices in some guides for say a #1 65 Country Sedan or Custom 500 in #1 condition that they say are only worth about 5,500 bucks, ya right where in the twilight zone?? We are talking about every nut and bolt brand new. At the Novi Expo I watched a 63 427 R- code Galaxie sell for 27, 750 beans! Thats the real world for #2+ R OR W code 63-66 cars. The W-code cars are the 427 4v, those are very rare, for most racers in the 60s wanted the 8v setup. I've seen some others sell way above what Halkrod has stated here in Michigan. Yes I agree that Galaxies after 66 drop a lot, I guess I got a little ahead of myself on the 67 becuse I love the body style and forget you can get a real nice one for about 6000, compared to 10,000 plus for the older models. |
| | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- JonnyB, 08/19/2003
Okay to go along with this subject...
I have a friend who has the same year Galaxie that is sort of a bastard car.. much has been changed on it from the previous owner that he was unaware of....
Before I met this guy he had made some modifications to it on the advice of some other poeple that didnt really know what they were talking about. He has been complaining about not making enough power. He has a 390 FE engine that used to have a 2BBL carb he replaced the intake with a 4V manifold and is currently running on stock Cast exh manifolds. Also he has replaced the cam with one of unknown specs but was told that it was "high performance" He is running a C-6 trans, and a 3.00 9-inch rear axle with a detroit locker.
I know a bit about engines, but mostly I am a chassis designer/builder/tuner....
anyhow he asked If i could look at it for him so i went to look.
There are some things that bug me about this and maybe you experts here will pick up on this right away...
the engine runs smoothly, but the timing is about 40 BTDC w/o the vacuum adv. and around 60 with out any detonation occuring at all. The car does not produce enough torque to break the tires free.
now I know that this is not the best platform for a race car and all, but he just wants to be a kid with it and burn rubber when he's cruising! lol
anyhow aside from the obvious... heavy car, small gear and stock exhaust.. what do you think...
The timing, just doesnt make sense to me.. is it possible that the cam is indexed incorrectly, perhaps retarded by a tooth? Would that make it possible to have 60 degrees of advance without detonating?
We are going to tear the engine down when he puts it away for the season at which time I will slap a degree wheel on it and verify the cam timing and review the profiles
I have told him all about the other things he needs to do.. I.E ignition system, weight, taller gear, new manifold, bigger carb, headers,
he loves the car, and just wants to show off with it.. not race it.. go figure!
any ideas would be greatly appreciated
JonnyB
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| | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- Travis Miller, 08/19/2003
The high timing reading sounds like the outer ring on the balancer has slipped. Forget the timing light. Put a wrench in the car and go for a drive. Advance the timing till it detonates then back it down.
If you want to check the balancer you need to make a piston stop. Take a non-fouler spark plug adapter and thread a long bolt into it so that it will go deep enough into the cylinder to touch the piston. Cut off the head of the bolt and use a grinder to round off the tip. Next remove all the spark plugs so the engine can be turned over BY HAND. Thread the piston stop into number 1 cylinder spark plug hole. Turn the engine over BY HAND until the piston touches the piston stop. Mark the balancer where the timing pointer is aiming. Then turn the engine back the other direction BY HAND until it again touches the piston stop. Again mark the balancer where the timing pointer aims. Halfway between these marks will be exactly top dead center on number one cylinder. This is a way to see if the outer ring on a balancer has slipped.
After checking any balancer I always paint a small stripe on both the outer ring and center hub. This way I can tell if the outer ring ever slips. |
| | | | One comment on pricing -- Allen, 08/20/2003
OK, it has been about a day since the last post here, so nobody will probably read this, but I wanted to give a quick addition to the issue about resale value of cars. I have two cars, a 65 Mustang hardtop with a straight six, and a 67 Galaxie with a 390 (set up a lot like Trevor C's) neither of which is a high resale value. But to tell you the truth, the value of my cars has nothing to do with how much cash I will get if (God forbid) I sell one. THe value is the enjoyment of driving them and getting the stares and thumbs up from people, and especially working on them and learning new stuff. That is worth more money. One of the best things about the Galaxie is that you can comfortable fit 6 people in it and cruise around all night (you'll have to fill up once or twice on petrol). For a 24 year old kid like me that is more fun than most things that people my age do, and like the commercial says, it's priceless. But then again, I'm not in this hobby for money, there is just something in my blood that attracts me to old muscle. |
| | | | RE: Galaxie 500: info and ideas please? -- JonnyB, 08/26/2003
Thanks Travis.
I will give that look and see what the deal is with that.... perhaps we are not running near as advanced as we thought!
I will look it over and let you know!
If not... I've got more digging to do.
Jon |
| happy to see the FE being revived -- if i just could hit the lottery......, 09/11/2002
by Genesis. Shelby. I just wonder how competitive these new FE's will be against the monster 385's and BBC's?
Maybe the magazines will include one of the FE variations in one of their dyno shootouts.
I wonder if someone is going to make Cammer heads again? |
| 390 Exhaust with fins? -- Darren, 09/11/2002
I went to a pick n pull for exhaust manifolds and found an old F200 with some kind of FE or FT in it. But what I thought was interesting other than fitting between the bumper and the water pump with no problem was, that the drivers side exhaust had fins and the other side didn't. Any know why this one exhaust had fins or is it worth getting it?
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| | RE: 390 Exhaust with fins? -- BobSprowl, 09/11/2002
Some F100 and F250 trucks in the '70s had the fins. I beleive they were added to prevent the exhuast manifolds from cracking. I never heard of one with fins doing this but the plain ones often do. |
| | | Yup. It's the driver's side only, too. -- Dave Shoe, 09/11/2002
The FE driver's side manifold was redesigned with fins sometime around '73-'75. It appears to be to prevent cracking.
Shoe. |
| | | | The ones I've seen had D5 #'s -- Barry B, 09/11/2002
and the ports are actually shorter than on the logs
 |
| | | | | RE: The ones I've seen had D5 #'s -- Darren, 09/12/2002
But you can still grind them out right? |
| | | | | | RE: The ones I've seen had D5 #'s -- Barry B, 09/12/2002
Don't know, never thought about it.
 |
| | | | | | RE: The ones I've seen had D5 #'s -- BobSprowl, 09/12/2002
Why? They were added to make it stronger. |
| | | | | | The'll port match with all low-exit heads. -- Dave Shoe, 09/12/2002
The mismatch will be an issue with Edelbrock, CJ, and 1965-earlier heads, but will be fine with all emissions castings, such as C6AE-J, L, U, C7AE-A, C8AE-H, and D2TE-AA.
You can easily grind them out to match the raised exit heads.
Shoe. |
| | | | | | | RE: The'll port match with all low-exit heads. -- Darren, 09/14/2002
Whats wrong with pre 65 heads? Bolt pattern, or Angle of exhaust flange? |
| | | | | | | | Tough fit onto Fairlane/Mustangs. -- Dave Shoe, 09/14/2002
The 1965-earlier heads are great for performance, but they lack the eight extra bosses which allow the diagonal exhaust bolt mounting pattern to be drilled into the heads.
Basically all 1966-later heads (except 427 racing heads) got the extra bosses cast in and they were drilled as required (either vertically or diagonally) at the engine plant.
Shoe. |
| GT heads? -- Doug, 09/10/2002
Found a set of C8AE-H (cast #) heads. Owner claims they are 390GT. What do the experts say? Thanks! |
| | If they have 14 bolt exhaust, and... -- Dave Shoe, 09/11/2002
...if they also have thermactor bosses drilled out, then it'slikely true.
The 390 GT engine was only available from 1966-68, and the C8-H heads suggest this must be a 1968 motor if it's to be a 390GT.
Since the 390GT got the same head as any other FE of 1968 (excepting the 427 and CJ), only the valve springs, retainers, locks, and valves are unique. The head casting is common and a top performer if horsepower is kept around 400HP or less.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| 390 stamping numbers -- Jon, 09/10/2002
I've been told by a man who has worked for Ford his entire life that the older Ford engines do not have numbers on them except for a casting number. I have another man telling me that both of his 68 mustangs with 390's have the vins and date codes stamped on the back of the engine.
Any help here? |
| | Both are correct. -- Dave Shoe, 09/10/2002
Most FEs do not have any VIN information stamped onto them.
In the later '60s, some FEs, particularly performance FEs, could be found with partial VIN numbers stamped on the rear of the block and top of the tranny.
All three of my 428PI engines were stamped, as was my Cyclone CJ motor of 1969. My Fairlane Cobra 428 was not stamped, nore was the 428 which came in my Q-code 1967 LTD.
Common stamping locations are at the rear of the block near the drivers side deck surface, and I also hear it's sometimes stapmed instead at the center rear of the block near the bellhousing.
I believe all FE blocks got some cryptic date code stampings at the front face of the block to indicate when they were machined, but these tend not to be very noticeable unless you look carefully.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| 390 or 427? -- Danny, 09/10/2002
I have what suppose to be a 390, but i noticed that the heads have only 2 holes for the exhaust manifolds to bolt on! "one on top and other on the bottom.going up and down". doesn't 390 heads have 4 holes for exhaust manifolds to bolt on? does this mean it is a 390 or a 427 or what? what is the easiest way to recognise a 390? Thanks! |
| Lock away your FE Fords and hide your CJ parts.... -- pop428, 09/10/2002
Here I come..
I fly out tomorrow for your great country :^)
Leaving from down under to come up and see how it's all done from the top.......(America)!
And Of course I'll be paying my respect with a minutes silence for 9/11 :^( God Bless.
Peter
1969 Mach 1 428Cjr
WT 7034 Green |
| | RE: Lock away your FE Fords and hide your CJ parts.... -- Gerry Proctor, 09/10/2002
Welcome to the good ol' U.S. of A., Peter. Enjoy your stay and don't forget...we drive on the right (read that a "correct side") side of the road. |
| | Do you folk have any factory FE cars down there? -- Dave Shoe, 09/10/2002
Other than the custom imported FE cars which I've heard of being specially shipped down under and converted to suit the roads, did Ford ever sell any FEs in new cars through their dealer network?
I realize you're probably busy packing, but I've wondered this for a while and figured now was a good time to ask.
Shoe. |
| cam spacer, cam gear bushing -- Kyle, 09/10/2002
My brother gave me this web address. Normally I'd ask him, as he lives by ford FE, but he is gone fighting fires this summer.
I helped my Dad pull a 390 out of his 72 ford 4wd truck this weekend. On tare down we noticed it didn't match the tech scetch in the rebuild books we bought.
There was no split cam spacer under the cam sproket and there was a bushing in the cam gear under the fuel pump ecentric that isn't in the diagram.
our new edel. double roller chain matches the old set almost exactly, but doesn't have the bushing in the bolt hole of the cam gear. I can't see that there would be room to use a spacer under the cam gear as the gear is machined with a piece thats fits in next to the cam already.
Do I need to use the old bushing in the original cam gear? Do I need to get a split cam spacer to go between the cam and sproket? Or are the pictures in my Haynes repair manual out of date?
Thanks for the help
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| | RE: cam spacer, cam gear bushing -- Charlie, 09/10/2002
In later than 63? 64? ford stopped using the split ring cam spacer, and machined it into the timing gear itself. I'd say your diagram is either an older one or probally has 2 versions of the cam asssm. in one picture. This is all assumeing your engine has a cam retension plate?
I'm not sure about the bushing your asking about. On the last 390 we built there wasn't any. Make sure you check for cam play regaurdless should be .07 or less I believe.
Hang in there and someone from here will finish answering your questions, There is some sharp fellas on this site.
Charlie |
| FE #13 problems -- John, 09/09/2002
More news on my engine troubles. Looks like a head gasket failure next to #2 cylinder. Pressurizing cooling system causes #2 to fill with coolant. Coolant loss was initially from a pin-hole in rad. The overheating may have caused the head gasket to fail. Hope it's not a cracked head or block. Pulled off #4 main bearing. It looks like the day I put it in. No scoring, no wear, no debris. All the rods seemed tight also. Checked the oil pump. Looks OK, though the relief spring pressure seemed a little low and a bit gritty when moved. Also, usually the pump rotor and cylinder are marked on the same side with either small diamonds or large traiangles. This pump had the triangles on opposite sides like someone put one of the two pieces in upside down. Doubt this is a problem, but plan to e-mail Melling about it. Still need to find out for sure about the oil pressure. It never was as high as I thought it should be and took a long time to rise (compared to other FE's)after starting the engine. Possibly the Aviad pickup design, but I doubt it. Comments anyone? |
| | Which Mellings pump is this? [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/09/2002
n/m |
| | | It is: -- John, 09/09/2002
It is the M57AHV which is the high volume pump with the 5/16 hex drive. I use a 5/15 to 1/4 FPP drive. Nothing special...just bought it through UAP. Yielded 60 psi max and 15 psi idle. Last engine I did before this one, I used the reg Melling HV 1/4 M57 which came through Blue Wolverine, and purchased through Dove. 75 psi max and 22 psi idle. The first pump I ever used (on my first FE) was the FPP HP/HV pump....way too high oil presure at 145 psi max and 25 psi idle. |
| | And were you reading a std. Ford gauge? [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/09/2002
n/m |
| | | No, But...... -- John, 09/09/2002
I am using a Stewart-Warner borden type gauge connected to the top of the oil filter adapter. I checked it with my air compressor. I dialed in 100 psi in 10 psi increments and the gauge read exactly the same as on the air compressor. I changed all the press-in plugs to threaded ones, put restictors in the heads, plugged the lifter galleries (am using solid lifters), enlarged the oil gallery from the pump to the adapter, flared the adapter mounting boss on the block, chamfered the main bearing holes to match the bearings, etc. Clearances are 0.002" and no bearing wear is evident. I have tried different types of oil filters with no change. I use 20W50, but the same probalem was there with 10W30 which I used for break-in. It's just strange that the oil pressure rises so slowly as well as pressure not quite making it to where it should be. The only thing I did different from my last engine was to use the drain-back sheet metal trays which may not seal well with FPP support stands. But even so, I have restrictors in the heads. I even inspected the cam bearings which the machine shop installed and couldn't see anything wrong there. So.....that's why I call it engine #13...for bad luck. |
| | | | RE: No, But...... -- Pete, 09/09/2002
I would lean towards a faulty pressure relief valve. On one of my FEs that I built, I had a valve stick. In a matter of seconds the oressure blew the filter wide open! Quite amusing. I would guess you have the opposite happening, bleeding off too much. |
| | | | For lack of better explanation, I'm with Pete[n/m] -- Mr F, 09/09/2002
n/m |
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