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 |  Hawkrod, pulley's, pics, and models..... -- kevin, 08/28/2002
What I was trying to ask you was, have you ever used the air pulley set up on the Cougar, Mustang, with the big bar? I dont think it would work, but have never tried it. You know what I think of the small damper wanna be. I have several of these 428's with the air set up out of Birds and thought thats what he was trying to do. They do have their own pointer too. Now I am having trouble trying to get on the other forum, cant read, post or see anything going on, and am waiting for advise on what to do. The answer to your question on the Racecar is no, its not a Nascar original. This is just a short track car, but looks cool with the 14" wide tires on it. It was a GM frame and front steering, brakes, has a trailing arm rear (like Nascar) and Ford drivetrain, T-Bird body. It was just a rustbucket, and much had to be fabricated out of sheet metal from scratch. I just happened to find a couple of pictures of it in my stuff. I have about 60 pounds of pics that I brought down here from my last jaunt north, but cannot show anybody due to the crappy web tv I'm on. I cant see the pics that are posted of any of the other peoples cars either. Just thought that someone would post some if I mailed them to em. I lost most of my pics of my cars years ago, when my ex-two legged female stick chaser threw them out. No woman will ever get their hands on any more of them, thats for sure. I just stopped in a hobby shop today to kill a half hour while takng a neighbor to the doctor, and there were several 62 T-Bird models there. M-Bird convertible and Sport Roadster to boot. There were several other year T-Birds, along with 60 Starliners, and a nifty 57 Ranchero. I was tempted to buy one, but all my models are still un-assembled from 35-40 years ago, and I want to commision Ed Jenkins to put em together for me. My ex stick chaser (theres those homicidal feelings again LOL) threw all of them, while out of the boxes, in pieces (I had them in piles in one of my spare bedrooms atop cases of magazines), in a single large box, nice huh? Several are Cammer cars (one a 66 ragtop Galaxie), with multiple inductions, exhausts, and the like. Didnt know if you were into the model thing or not, and thought you and Theo might want-need one. I had never seen this particular one before, let alone a lot of the other models this guy has. If you are interested, I will get the particulars for you. |
|  | common interests that is for sure.... -- hawkrod, 08/28/2002
network 54 seems to have crashed as no forums are up. i went junkyarding today and found another 59 bird that was hit recently. the good news is that it has every part i need to finish puting mine on the road. i made a package deal with the yard owner to strip the whole car! i should be driving by the end next month! as far as the pulley is concerned you can lower the sway bar by putting spacers under the mounts which pivots the bar down (had to do that on my tbird when i put a CJ balancer on. the problem i see is that pulley unit only fits the small balancer (although i have seen them on 427 balancers but a little work has to be done on the back edge of the pulley). i use CJ balancers and pulleys on all my projects and then run smaller water pump and ps pump pulleys. i have not done any models in a while but the urge is strong. my wife won't let me get any more projects right now as i have 6 full scale jobs. my ex was bad and i miss her, but my aim is getting better! actually the movie she devil comes to mind but she started it and actually commited felonies by trying to place liens on my cars (i had the good ones before i had her). the judge gave me the choice and all i had to do was say the word but i figured it would come back to haunt me. now calling her a stick chaser suggests that you had less than ideal taste so i won't say anymore. hawkrod |
 | FE exhaust port variations (C8OE-N head pic) -- Barry B, 08/28/2002
Has anyone ever noticed that the exhaust port dimensions are a little different for the C6AE-R heads compared to early and late heads? I’ll try to explain it but sorry if it seems a little wordy and I don’t know how to post multiple pics.
Using a CJ head as an example, all the early FE heads had “raised” ports. Using the bolt holes as a reference, the floor of the ports line up with the top edge of the diagonal bolt holes. Also notice how much space is between the top of the ports and the top bolt holes.
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| | FE exhaust port variations (C8AE-H head pic) -- Barry B, 08/28/2002
This is a C8AE-H head with the “lowered” ports. Notice how the floor of the ports now line up with the bottom edge of the diagonal bolt holes. The port size is the same though, just the whole thing is lowered. You can see that there is more space between the port ceiling and the top bolt holes on the center two ports. Ignore the top bolt holes on the end ports, they are lowered.
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| |  | FE exhaust port variations (C6AE-R head pic) -- Barry B, 08/28/2002
Now take a look at the ports on this C6AE-R head, notice they look more square than rectangle? The floor of the ports line up with the top edge of the diagonal bolt holes just like the CJ BUT there is more space between the port ceiling and the top bolt holes just like the C8AE-H. In other words, the floor is “raised” like the early heads but the ceiling is “lowered” like the later heads, making a square-looking port. If the ceiling was raised it would come too close to the lowered bolt holes on the end ports.
Is this making any sense? Comments?
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| | | | I've been squaking about this for years....... -- kevin, 08/28/2002
usually when it comes time for headers. I always recomended that any headers be fully welded up around the tube, and then ground to match the port opening. I dont have leaks anymore, and wont do it any other way. There are three distinct ones that you showed, plus the differences in the roof, bowl, guide area, of these, and also the different 427 heads. I believe I remember 9 different exhaust ports altogether, when making molds of them. The Cammer exhaust port was the all-time flow champ of any motor that came out of Detroit, topping the Boss 429, and both styles of the Hemi. I wonder what the M/T Hemi heads would have been like? They were a big improvement over the 392 heads that they were patterned after. I have cross sectioned photos of them, but never had my paws on any. That was then, this is now, and there are some awsome ex ports on the market today. I prepped some Canfields before, and they were excellent, much better than the Brodix or Edlebrock's. |
| | | |  | RE: I've been squaking about this for years....... -- Louie, 08/28/2002
There is a set of the MT hemi's on ebay. He isn't really trying to sell them; he is really looking for an intake. There is a pic of the exh ports
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854617078
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| | | | | Thanks kevin -- Barry B, 08/29/2002
for confirming these observations! I knew about the high and low exits but not about the “squished” exit. Thought they looked kinda funny but had always assumed they were high exits that just needed a little cleanup on the roof (ceiling, whatever :-) Seems like they would be more restrictive. Do you know how they flow compared to the others? Also, do you know why they went to the lowered ports in the first place? My guess is so they could fit the “GT” manifolds lower which would narrow down the engine width to fit in the intermediate chassis a little easier between the shock towers. Doesn’t that add more of a dog-leg to the path? |
| | RE: FE exhaust port variations (C8OE-N head pic) -- Scott Hollenbeck, 08/29/2002
Those "CJ" ports look awfully puny compared to others I've seen, such as these:
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| | | | RE: FE exhaust port variations (C8OE-N head pic) -- Scott Hollenbeck, 08/29/2002
Good question about the exhaust manifolds. I don't have these heads on hand to check, but the "standard" exhaust port should measure 1.84" x 1.34", or .5" taller than they are wide. How close are yours to that? |
| | | | | RE: FE exhaust port variations (C8OE-N head pic) -- Scott Hollenbeck, 08/29/2002
Wait -- I just noticed that the head pic I posted earlier shows the outlines from the stock manifolds that were mated to these heads. FWIW... |
| | | | | | RE: FE exhaust port variations (C8OE-N head pic) -- afret, 08/29/2002
Looks like the "large" port is just the outline of the large exhaust manifold port. The floor looks like it is in the same location but the carbon deposits makes it look like the port floor is quite a bit lower. |
| | | | | | | Thanks, now I can see it -- Barry B, 08/30/2002
after I cranked up the brightness on the monitor! |
| Cam Specs + Low Vacuum = No Brakes (Long) -- Rick Thompson, 08/28/2002
Help! Here are my mechnical roller cam specs in a 427 side oiler with dual fours and 12.8:1 compression:
Lift: Intake & Exhaust: @ Cam 374 @ Valve 658
Cam Timing @.015 Intake opens 48 degrees BTDC.
Exhausts opens 90 degrees BBDC.
Intake closes 78 degrees ABDC and Exhaust closes 40 degrees ATDC.
Advertised duration on intake is 306 degrees and exhaust is 310 degrees.
Cam Timing @ .050 is :Intake opens 23 degrees BTDC and close 53 degrees ABDC.
Exhaust opens 65 dgress BBDC and closes 15 degrees ATDC.
Ok, I have about 5-7 inches of vacuum and no power brakes. Does anyone have the same experience with similar specs and what did you do to solve the problem? Anyone run one of those small external vacuum pumps? Thanks for the help |
| Back to the FE -- Mike G, 08/27/2002
I just picked up a new project truck and have a quick question. The 1966 F100 is running a 352 w/4 speed pumping 208hp (from a 2v). It smokes quite a bit but a lot comes from "warming up" the tires too... I want to punch out some cheap big HP from the 352, it is just to play with anyway. Any guidance?? |
| | RE: No FE is cheap -- nelson, 09/01/2002
FE = Fricking Expensive
other wise the FE can really put out, that is if your wallet can! |
| | Cheap & big HP don't go together n/m -- POP428, 09/01/2002
n/m |
| | RE: find a dead bird for some cheap HP -- R Shannon, 09/01/2002
Agree no cheap HP unless you drop in a thunderbolt from a dead bird. To pump up you 352 you need at least 10-1s, a good cam, head work, and a good al. 4 barrel intake and carb. All this adds up to at least 2K and questionable on todays gas? I still see some engine rebuilder offering 390s in short block and long blocks. either way your still going to need the intake and carb. might save $600 that way. |
| | RE: Back to the FE -- bill bradley, 09/05/2002
take your 352 bore it .0054 to 4.054 take the crank throw it away get a 390 crank now you got a 390. or get a 428 crank & new 410 pistons now you got a 410 a good cam & headers youll go fast. |
| | | RE: Back to the FE -- Ron D. Maxwell, 09/05/2002
Bill, I don't have a book in front of me, so don't take this the wrong way, But are you sure you have your dicemal point in the right place? |
| engin rebuild -- S.Corbin, 08/26/2002
28pi w/68cj heads dropped a vlave and needs rebuilding- i have a different set of cj heads, new service block, crank which is undamaged and turned 20/20, am ordering a set of forged std bore pistons and need advise on rods and cam. old cam was a replacement which is unidentifiable and i wanted to reuse with a new set of lifters.should or does this assy need to be balanced for street driving and what cam,spring,valve combo would anybody recommend in order to prevent future problems. I'm not building the motor myself, have to have help as I'm certianly no mechanic when it comes to engins. any advise would be appreciated. |
| | RE: engin rebuild -- Tim Johnson, 08/26/2002
As far as rods go, either the C6AE-C or C7AE-B castings are great for hot street machine use. The 428 CJ rod was a C7AE-B casting that were drilled out to accept a rod bolt that was 1/32" larger than the standard 3/8" bolt.
They did not have ARP bolts back then so drilling out for a larger bolt was the only way to make the rod stronger. Just install a set of ARP 3/8" rod bolts in the standard rods. You will have a rod that is stronger than the CJ version with the larger bolt.
I personally would not run a cam that I had no idea what the specs were. Spring for a new cam and purchase the recommended valve train accessories.
I would balance the motor. I do for all the performance motors that I build.
Don't scrimp on trying to reuse 30+ year old wear parts. 428CJ's dont grow on trees anymore. You're lucky to have those spare parts.
To illustrate, a guy that I know runs a 428SCJ in the local drags. During one run, he lost a main cap bolt and blew the block. He was trusting factory orignal bolts that had been torqued and retorqued many times over the life of the motor.
Nuff' said for now. Hope this gives you some ideas!
TJ |
| | | RE: engin rebuild -- S.Corbin, 08/27/2002
Thanks Tj - i s/w the machine shop yesterday and decided to go w/stnd bore and they are going to check the heads to make sure no guides ect are needed before doing the machine work. the fellow who is doing the rebuild has located forged std bore pistons and a set of forged rods. he too advised cam replacement as well as ss valves. This has been frustrating to say the least as this will still not produce the "correct " date code pi engin needed for the car. i guess I'll work on that over the winter and try to accumulate the pieces necessay to build one of these motors later. appeciate the advise. |
| | | Tim, where ya been man? -- Barry B, 08/28/2002
Haven't read your very informative and in-depth posts on the FE boards for quite some time now. Was worried that something might have happened. So glad to see you around, hope everything is going ok with you.
Barry |
| | | | RE: Tim, where ya been man? -- Tim Johnson, 08/29/2002
I gave up on Network54 when they started the "cookie crap". I don't appreciate sites that put 3rd party cookies on my machine to track my internet usage.
I found this site by accident, so I'll come here every day or two and see what's going on.
TJ |
| 428cj removal from '69 mustang -- Ken, 08/26/2002
What is the easiest way to pull the motor out of the car?
I have the 4 speed with stock exhaust manifolds power brakes and no air conditioning. Do you have to take the right side exhaust manifold off first along with the tranny and pressure plate? Also can I use the stock lift hooks with the tranny and water pump off? |
| | RE: 428cj removal from '69 mustang -- mustangoldtimer, 08/26/2002
I take as much off the front as I can, Trans and bellhousing off. Jack up motor remove rh manifold.Using lift hooks will damage valve covers.Thats my 2 cents, Ray |
| | | RE: 428cj removal from '69 mustang -- hawkrod, 08/26/2002
only use the lift hooks if you have the matching ford lift bracket. you'll trash the valve covers and maybe more importantly the lift hooks. with the price of good originals today it is not worth risking any parts. bolt a chain on in the right spots or even better use a carb plate tool. hawkrod |
| | | | RE: 428cj removal from '69 mustang -- Ken, 08/26/2002
By the right spots, you mean left front head and right rear head? Where can you get a carb plate tool? I'm putting an aluminum intake on the engine can I use a carb plate tool with that?
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| | | | | use the carb plate. -- Greg, 08/26/2002
It's much easier and can be had at a good go fast goodies shop. The aluminum intake will present no problem. I do it all the time.
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| | | | | | RE: use the carb plate. -- Ken, 08/26/2002
Thanks a lot |
| | | | | | RE: use the carb plate. -- Ken, 09/09/2002
You've used a carb plate on a 428CJ with an aluminum intake with no problems? Mike's tools makes a pivot plate that bolts to the intake. It comes with grade 8 bolts. I want to be sure the threads in the Ford aluminum intake can bear the eingine weight. |
| | | | | | | I used a carb plate -- x1968x, 09/09/2002
to reinstall my 428 in my '68. It's a cast iron manifold. I'm still kinda surprised it worked (thank you God!). In the attached pic's you can see what was on the engine pre-install. There are 5 shots to scroll thru.
I know you are pulling rather that installing, but it will work the same both ways. If you look carefully at the exhaust manifold you'll see that I had the original engine hoist bracket on the wrong way. Had to fix it with the engine in about 98% of the way. Just gotta love cars to do this stuff!
(take a good look at your chain condition too...)
http://community.webshots.com/photo/31813888/31814087DjvNtwqXFC
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| | | | | | | | RE: I used a carb plate -- Ken, 09/17/2002
Dennie;
Thanks for the pictures. I see the engine hook on backwards. It looks like you removed and installed the engine with the tranny and exhaust manifolds attached. How high did you have to raise the car up to do this? It doesn't look that high. Plus you had all the accessories on the front. I don't see the heat shield on the right side manifold. Your engine looks very good. This is very encouraging to me.
Ken |
| | | | | | | | | RE: I used a carb plate -- x1968X, 09/17/2002
I couldn't afford the heat shield when I was at that stage (or now for that matter). I will probably regret it when I get around to it.
I didn't have to raise the car up at all. Remember with the big springs that came with the 428 the car will sit up 4-6 inches with the engine out. Installing the engine was the last step in my resto. I did all the electrical, brake lines, grommets and detailing etc. under the hood that I could prior to the installation. The engine and transmission were installed as the pictures show. There is so little room under the hood that I elected to pre assemble as much as possible. I could have done the install w/o the alternator, PS and smog pump, but I put them on the engine outside the car to make sure I had the right pulley's, brackets and spacers. Rather than taking it all back apart we just dropped the engine in intact. The engine has to be tilted at ~60 degrees to go in like this. It took 4 of us in the WWF match of a life time to wrestle it in. It was all over in about 20 minutes. It's quite a site to see the big 428 and C-6 dangling in the air (by a carb plate, noless) above a concrete and steele landing site. Clearly this was the most adrenaline raising part of the restoration. |
| | | | | | | | | | Correction... -- x1968x, 09/18/2002
I was thinking about your question regarding lifting the car during the installation. It occured to me that we had the car on dollies. The dollies lifted the car about 4 inches from the floor. That enabled us to get under the car without jacking it up. The dollies were useful in that they allowed the car to be moved relative to the engine hoist. It was difficult to move the engine hoist without making the engine swing like a pendulum. ( something about Newton's laws...)
Sorry about the misinfo... |
| | | | RE: 428cj removal from '69 mustang -- dennie, 09/10/2002
Hawkrod if you go to x1968x post and link to his photos i believe he has a pic of the shift lever i need for a floor shift thanks for your help if you see one let me know |
| | | | | | RE: Dennie: Check these links for linkage pics -- dennie, 09/11/2002
thanks a million (or at least $125) hope they stock them dennie |
| The FE that wouldn't -- John, 08/25/2002
Just an update on my 428 that has caused me so many headaches with it's slightly low oil pressure and a few copper flecks in the oil filter after it's 200 mile oil change after the rebuild. Engine finally started to over-heat. Coolant was low. Thought coolant had got into oil due to white condensation on dipstick. Drained oil. No antifreeze to be found, but finally located pinhole in rad. Fixed rad and changed oil. No more metal in filter either. Figured everything was OK. Well, coolant still seems to be dissapearing......coming out overflow tube from expansion tank. Changed rad cap. Still have a coolant loss problem. Must be a leaky head gasket. Oil pressure suddenly has a new problem. Idle pressure is OK, gets up to 40 psi (hot) at only 1300 rpm, but it won't go past 42 no matter what (except when oil is cold and I get about 55). Tested the pressure gauge and it works fine. Should be getting about 75 to 80 max with the HV pump, only ever got 65. Tear-down appears imminent. Any ideas that could help me nurse this thing till the end of theis summer season? Engine runs fine otherwise. |
| | RE: might be oil pressure loss at rocker arm shaft -- nelson, 09/01/2002
if your rocker arm shafts are up-side down, ( oil holes on the top the shaft instead of on the bottom) you will loose lots of pressure. I made that mistake once and it also made the motor somke a lot. But if you have new heads and valve seal's, it probably won't somke.
check that out |
| | | Not that likely -- John, 09/01/2002
Not that likely as I have restrictors in the heads. My rocker shafts do have two holes per rocker, one top, and one bottom...I plan to change this shortly. I havn't been able to get at the car for some time, but will this week. Plan to drop the pan and check #4 main bearing as well as the oil pump. Oil pumps typically never fail, but I am suspicious in this case. Usually, a reduction in oil pressure is almost always worn main bearings, but....After all, with a hot engine and 40 psi at 1300 rpm, what other reason could I have for not being able to achieve over 41 psi no matter what the revs? And "yes", the gauge has been checked out and works perfectly. |
| | | | RE:Curious -- Nelson, 09/03/2002
Let us know what you find |
| | | | | Update -- John, 09/05/2002
News on my engine troubles. Problem was loss of coolant and sudden drop in oil pressure. Oil problem was unusual since I still had normal idle oil pressure and 40 psi at only 1300 rpm, but it just wouldn't go past 40 no matter what the revs. Coolant loss was initially from a pin-hole in rad. Then I had a bit of steam out of the right side on start-up. So...drained the oil tonight. A lot of anti-freeze in the oil this time. Pulled off #4 main bearing. It looks like the day I put it in. No scoring, no wear, no debris. All the rods seemed tight also. So next I have to find the source of the water leak. Hopefully just a blown head gasket and not a cracked head or block. I also need to check the oil pump just in case. Will pressurize the cooling system next and look for antifreeze from underneath now that the oil pan is removed. If it comes down a cylinder, it probably is the head or head gasket. Elsewhere, like from the oil pump, will be bad news. I did use Fel-pro's regular head gaskets vs their premium ones, so maybe that and the slight overheating from the rad caused a gasket failure. Comments anyone? |
| IMHO, it just doesn't get any cooler than this... -- Dan Davis, 08/25/2002
...I know that some of you may have seen this car before, but most have not. It was built over 20 years ago and I even had opportunity to turn a wrench on it while workign at Total Performance in the 80's. I myself have not seen it out and about for many, many years. This is John Vermeersch's Cammer-powered 1961 Starliner. She's showing her age a bit, but who cares. She's still one BAMF.
Oh, and he drove it to this show -- about 100 miles each way from his house! Excuse me while I wipe the saliva from my chin!
Regards,
Dan
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| | RE: IMHO, it just doesn't get any cooler than this -- Mike McQuesten, 08/25/2002
Thanks Dan. I never get tired of seeing any nicely built '60/'61 Starliner. And John's has to be one of the greatest ever.
I remember reading a long time ago about how John bought this car new. His dad wouldn't allow him to buy an HP 375 or 401 horse car. A 300 horse was his mandated limit. So he went with a cruiso and eventually had a 428CJ in it. I read too that John was very adept and being able to remove the entire front sheet metal on this '61 in very short order. Allowing for ease of work and service on the brutal cammer.
One more thing, John Vermeersch was a pleasure to work with for me. He helped me many years ago on a specific project(a 351W into a '64 Fairlane which is almost as difficult as installing an FE in that cavity). John stood by his gurantees and he knows his stuff. He also treated me to a nice tour of Total Performance once when I just popped in unaanounced while in Detroit on business.
A real gentleman. Does he still have that very cool, low mileage '61 Country Squire wagon? |
| | Saw it at Columbus last year. Anybody going 2002? -- Royce Peterson, 08/25/2002
I am bringing the green 427 GTE this year. Still have to swap third members but should be able to get it done no problem. I will be there Saturday only.
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: Saw it at Columbus last year. Anybody going 2002? -- Dallas Fridley, 08/26/2002
I will be there all three days. Bringing our new dragster. See attached pictures.
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| | | | I'll be there, with camera. -- Dave Shoe, 08/26/2002
I'll be touring the Genesis foundry and shop early Friday, and will trail them to the show later in the day.
I'll hang out with camera clicking until mid-Sunday.
I'm driving an economy beater with cruise control for the trip. My first ever high mileage endeavor.
I'll visit Total Performance and Dove for the first times late next week. The Ford Museum and Ford Library Archives will fill in the between days.
It'll be fun.
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE: I'll be there, with camera. -- John Saxon, 08/28/2002
Sounds like the dream vacation to me,do you guys live back east or are you guys just more dedicated than me? |
| | | | | | RE: I'll be there, with camera. -- Dallas Fridley, 08/29/2002
Fortuantely I live about an hour away form the track |
| | | | | RE: I'll be there, with camera. -- Charles, 08/30/2002
I was reading down through this tech forum and ran across a entry you submited back in 2001 about "log Intakes" you even posted a newspaper ad for one. I think I have one of these edelbrock ml f68 intake with 6 rochester carbs and all the linkage and fuel block. I have been told it is for a 428, but I cannot find any information on it or what it was on. Do you have any information? I have it on ebay right now hoping that someone will see it and tell me what it is. Here is a link if you would like to see pictures. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855550360&rd=1
Also due they call this thing a 12 pack?
Thank you,
Charles |
| Hawkrod..... -- kevin, 08/25/2002
below you say that the damper off a T-Bird engine fits. I was thinking of the 428 set up off a T-Bird for some reason when I stated that. On my GT-500, it has the original 15/16th's front bar. The 427 balancer off it hits the bar just slightly on suspension travel, and has for over 30 years, and the bar has a little dip from rubbing. Now the 428 Bird set up is larger in diameter on the lower pulley set up. I never have put that particular one in that, or other cars that I have owned that were big blocks, for obvious reasons of being backward of what I was trying to do (slow the pump speed). My question, I guess to you is, have you done this, and how, as other than moving the bar forward, lowering it, or eliminating it, replacing the three pulley extra large diameter specific 428 set up, I cant fathom it. As you know, I am not able to see my stuff at the moment. Thanks |
| | the three big pulleys are not part of.... -- hawkrod, 08/25/2002
the balancer, they are simply bolted on pulleys from an air car. just remove the outer pulley pack and you actually find a smaller balancer inside it with a single pulley groove in it. the large pulleys were only used on air conditioned vehicles and 390 and 428 use the same balancer. the large pulleys are correct on fairlane, tbird, and galaxie but mustangs and cougars used a different front pulley that is actually only two grooves as the balancer has a groove in it already (C1AE part number and cast iron too boot!). sorry didn't mean to confuse you when i said they were the same. my posts tend to be long winded so i didn't want to get on a tangent. hawkrod |
| Here is new idea. -- James Dodson, 08/24/2002
All of us FE people have had to figure out what we were going to use for oil restrictors on the heads. I have always been told to use some all thread cut to length with a hole drilled in the middle of it. I once payed a machine shop to make me some but I found something very easy: 600 degree Nylon Allen screws.
You can buy them from any reputable bolt supply.
I got the idea from a machinist that had to do some work on a set of Pontiac heads. Pontiac Motor Division issued a bulletin on one of there six cylinder engines that over oils to the heads (sound familiar) and said to tap and drill the heads to accept these Nylon Allen screw that were rated at 600 degrees Ferin hieght.
I took this idea and simplified it. I drilled my 1/16 hole in them first and used a Allen wrench to hold them while I shaped them with a Dremil tool to a cone shape and just drove them in. I carefully kept shaping them until they were a press fit. Then, I just ground off the access with the Dremil so the rocker stand would fit right and bolted everything back in place. It works like a dream. I know that the grinding part wasn't a good idea so I put paper towels around so that I wouldn't contaminate the oil. It was so easy. I didn't have to tap anything and they can be removed very easily. The whole thing took me about an hour and a half. |
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