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 |  part # ? -- Turin, 07/24/2002
I just installed a new regulator in my '69 Galaxie XL. It looked very different (thicker) than the one I took out ( GP Sorensen VR166 stamped on side, P5E stenciled on bottom) . The new one is made by Niehoff part #FF169A. Heres the question. My alternator light is going on very dimmly. She started and ran like a champ, but I think I got the wrong part . Is this maybe for a 429? Or a Tbird? What is the right part #? If it'll work for now? (selling to finish my '69 Torino GT ) Thanks! |
|  | Check your belt -- doug bolden, 07/24/2002
I don't know about #s
But the condition you describe, could be a belt that is to thin. riding to low in grove and sliping . Will just turn out light or low glow , the ford pully takes a wider belt.
Seen people change -alt., then bat., only to find the wrong size belt. hope to help doug |
|  | RE: part # ? -- Turin, 07/24/2002
alt light didn't glow at all until I swapped the regulator. Either it's the wrong reg. or one that works telling me that the alt is dieing. I'll check the belts for good measure. |
 | 69 ID tag locations? -- Tony, 07/24/2002
I've got a 69 with the VIN code 9R02S156510. I've looked up the decoder and broken it down, now I want to check all the other codes on the car. The door tag is gone, where are the locations of the other id tags?
Thanks |
| | RE: 69 ID tag locations? -- John R. Barnes, 07/28/2002
Send the serial number to Marti Auto and get the deluxe report for $40. It will give you all you need. |
| Heads -- Doug, 07/24/2002
I'm looking for a pair of 428 CJ heads. |
| | RE: Heads -- Turin, 07/24/2002
I'm sure you want an NOS. set, but I would consider a set of edelbrock CJ heads, and keeping the originals. You can always paint them! I might know a guy with a set. Don't know the condition but I'll keep ya posted. |
| Push rods for H/S rockers... -- Boydster, 07/23/2002
Just got a set of H/S roller rockers for my 410. Is anyone out there using these? If so what kind of pushrods are you using and what's the length on them? I didn't know you had to get ball end/cup end pushrods for these rockers(first FE rebuild). I don't know if it matters but I am using an Edelbrock Performer RPM set up(stock C7AE-A heads with some minor port work). Thanks for any input. |
| | RE: Push rods for H/S rockers... -- BEAR, 07/24/2002
Got mine from Crower and can't remember the exact length. |
| Lifter noise 428 scj -- Toltz, 07/23/2002
O.K. Here it is, I think I figured it out but would like some feedback if possible. I have experianced lifter
tick in my motor after I pull a high rpm run on the street. The car runs strong and idles fine when driving, but after I get up there in rpm's the motor comes out of it with a noticable tick that so far, has gone away. I think a lifter or two may be bad and colapsing at high rpm and then slowly pumping back up under normal driving untill the noise goes away. The first time I noticed it was after the car sat for a few weeks. When I started it I just thought it was noisey from sitting without being ran. It eventually quieted down UNTIL I drove it to work this morning and showed it some RPM's now my noise is back!! I have adjustable rockers and pushrods already and I was suprised at how quiet it ran for an FE. So, what do you guys think?? Bad lifter, if so, what brands do you recommend? I am not sure what brand of cam, lifters, and springs are currently in my car, as I bought the car this way. The only thing I've done is replace the valve spring retainers, because I noticed one was chipped when I installed new valve covers. The retainers were aftermarket, and very lightweight (Magnesium ??) I replaced them all with stock steel retainers. Photos at www.home.earthlink.net/~btoltzmann |
| | Anti-pump-up lifters are pumping down. -- Dave Shoe, 07/23/2002
I suspect you have anti-pump-up lifters in that engine.
Since regular lifters have a tendency to pump up at high RPMs, anti-pump-up lifters are designed to pump down at speed. Ideally , lifters would "stay right where they are supposed to", but reality doesn't quite work this way.
This also irritates me, so I've switched to solids.
Just my opinion,
Shoe. |
| | Mine do it too. -- James Dodson, 07/23/2002
I have Crane anti pump ups. Darn things are noisey. |
| | RE: Lifter noise 428 scj -- Rob, 07/23/2002
Sorry to bust in on your thread but this is a question I could use an answer to also. Is their some sort of agreement that if you are going to build up an FE and rev it up every so often that you can expect to hear lifter noise sometimes if you don't have solids? Am I oversimplifying the issue? I'm just trying to pick some experienced brains out there before I decide on soilds or anti-pump hydraulics in a 428 I'm getting set to build up.
Rob |
| Has anyone ever tried cutting the top off some... -- James Dodson, 07/23/2002
valve covers to see how the oil flows on these FE's while they are running. I am curious if the oil puddles up the the valve seals or not and if someone already knows this. The drain holes sure don't seem like they are in the right spot to take that oil out very quickly. Seems like if a person ran real thick oil that it would just flood the valve covers especially if they had a HP or HV oil pump. There are some very experienced people in this Forum and I would like to know what they have found out on this issue. |
|  | RE: Has anyone ever tried cutting the top off some... -- BEAR, 07/23/2002
Yes, I cut a slit about an 1.5 " wide and the legnth of the valve cover on top and used a flash light to see if you cut to big you will get dirty. |
| | | RE: Has anyone ever tried cutting the top off some... -- Tom, 07/23/2002
why not just Run the motor with the vavle cover off when i first started messing with cars thats what my dad did oil didnt spill out either but this was a 351c
would a FE Spill oil all over? |
| | | | RE: Has anyone ever tried cutting the top off some... -- BEAR, 07/23/2002
yes all over the exhaust |
| | | | | Tell me Bear... -- James Dodson, 07/23/2002
Did the oil pool around the valve seals enough to flood them? Was this motor equiped with a standard oil pump or a HV or HP pump? |
| | | | | | RE: Tell me Bear... -- BEAR, 07/23/2002
high volume oil pump, edelbrock heads with the gasket covering half of the drain. Forgot to trim gasket for aluminum heads. same thing happens when slugg builds up in oil drains on stock heads. It filled almost the whole valve cover was definately over the valve seals. |
| | | | | | | Bear, do you think... -- James Dodson, 07/23/2002
a person could take the valve covers off and run a wire or something in the drains to push the gasket far enough out of the way without having to remove the intake? The intake is a big job (I was going to say Bear) to remove. ;-) |
| | | | | | | | RE: Bear, do you think... -- BEAR, 07/24/2002
the only reason the gasket would be in the road is if you had the Edelbrock heads like and didn't trim the gasket. I am afraid that you might nock some slugg loose and put down into the motor. You might try putting a restrictor in the head below the rockershafts. I believe there have been other posts about it here before. I think the plug should have a .090 hole in the center and be about 3/4 of and inch long. It will be in the oil feed hole to the rocker shafts on one of the center hold down bolts. Ask Shoe or Royce for the exact numbers though. I did this a while ago and am not sure about the numbers. Hope this helps |
| Yet ANOTHER Holley ID- Royce?? -- Anthony, 07/22/2002
I have a '67 390 in a Mustang with the following carb:
List 6128-1
0217
DOZF-9510-U
It has 72's on the primarys and 80's on the secondarys.
What is the CFM, history, and is this the proper jetting for it? |
| | 735cfm, 1970 428cj service carb! n/m -- pete, 07/22/2002
n/m |
| | | Service Carb?? -- Anthony, 07/22/2002
Ok,what is that? And is the jetting ok? |
| | | | Service Carb is over counter replacement part n/m -- Just Strokin, 07/23/2002
n/m |
| | | | | RE: Service Carb is over counter replacement part n/m -- pete, 07/23/2002
When you needed a replacement carby for your factory fitted one ford gave you this one it was called a service replacement. It was a generic carb not specific to your car as far as build date. It is identical in manufacture...Also if you just wanted one from your parts dealer because you like to fit one to your engine it was offered over the counter at your local ford dealer.
Peter
1969 Mach 1 428cjr.
WT 7034 Green. |
| | | | | | i don't think that carb is a replacement.... -- hawkrod, 07/24/2002
i am not at my shop this week so i can not check but i think the D0ZF-9510-U is a 450 cfm carb for export 302 mustangs. to my knowledge the only CJ replacement was the C9AF-9510-U. hawkrod |
| | OE for '71 Mustang/Cougar 429SCJ, A/T [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/24/2002
n/m |
| | | my MPC says it is one of the boss 9 carbs... -- hawkrod, 07/27/2002
i was thinking D0ZF-9510-AE for the export carb. hawkrod |
| just got a FT motor intake# C7TA- has front motor -- doug bolden, 07/22/2002
mount off of the timing cover. This looks interesting.
Heads and exaust are useless but is anything else good, will check crank. not sure engine size |
| | If the flange has a crescent... -- Dave Shoe, 07/23/2002
...If the flywheel flange has only a square notch on it, then it's a 391, if it's got both a square notch and a large crescent (football shaped) cut, then it's a 330/361 crank.
If the block will fit a 15/64" drill bit shank between the cylinders in at least one spot while probing around inside all six core plug holes, then it's likely a 330 block which can probably me made into a sturdy 390 block. If the bit will not fit at any location than it's likely a 361/391 block, probaby good for an eventual 428-style boring, sonic permitting.
Shoe. |
| | | thanks shoe thats what I needed -- doug bolden, 07/23/2002
I will check the crank end today. Qusetion. Is the 330 crank also steel ? |
| | | | Some are, some aren't. -- Dave Shoe, 07/23/2002
It depends on whether it's a 330MD or 330HD. I'm not sure how to tell the engines apart at a glance, but I'm sure there is a simple way.
Shoe. |
| | | | | no notch- no crescent on crank flange -- doug bolden, 07/26/2002
different looking oil filter adaptor. Long flat oil pan should hold 7-9 qts. easy. Haven't checked block yet.
Will post findings. |
| | | | | RE: Some are, some aren't. -- John Saxon, 07/28/2002
Dave I believe the easy way to tell an HD from a MD is the snout on the front of the crank steel has the big snout,and as far as I know I've never seen a cast crank with the big snout |
| Crankcase pressure -- Tom, 07/22/2002
I am puzzled that the stock 390 engine in my 1963 Thunderbird has a slight positive crankcase pressure (based on a home made manometer that I rigged up). I checked into this, because it was spitting a little oil mist out of the breather filter (as well as a little smoke).
The manifold vacuum is 21 at idle in neutral and 17 at idle in drive. I did a compression check on each cylinder and they are all within 160 to 165. I put a new stock PCV valve on it and completely cleaned out the PCV system. I even removed the adapter at the back of the intake manifold that the PCV hooks onto and cleaned all the gunk out of it. I also removed the spacer underneath the carburetor to be sure the PCV passage is clear. I completely cleaned off all the old gasket material and was extra careful to use the right gasket and to be sure it was properly positioned so as not to choke off any of the PCV flow.
I am at my wits end. Is it possible the metal mesh filter in the intake manifold is so cruddy that I am not getting adequate flow from the crankcase? There is a reasonable amount of flow through there, but I have no way of knowing whether it is more restricted than it is supposed to be.
This was about the first PCV system Ford put on this engine. Is it possible that it was just inadequately engineered, so that it gets overwhelmed if the rings are only mildly worn?
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks. |
| | Corroded intake manifold? -- Dave Shoe, 07/23/2002
I had one FE intake manifold which developed a leak at the exhaust gas crossover, right where it bolted to the head. It was a thin spot in the cast iron underneath the manifold which eventually allowed raw exhaust to spill into the crankcase through a pin-hole leak. The engine had a generally dry, thin black coating of oil inside the entire engine, and a couple marshmallow sized chunks of carbon near the leak at the underside of the intake. If you've recently had the valve covers off and saw that everything was coated a dryish dark gray, then this may be a possibility.
You may want to do a "leakdown" test to all the cylinders. It's much like a compression test, but offers a little extra info on the condition of each cylinder. I've never yet done one myself, so I don't know details. I do know the tester is fairly inexpensive and a valuable addition to a tool box. I'll get one eventually.
If it passes the leakdown test (which should confirm the condition of the rings), then you might start thinking about the tiny possibility there is a small exhaust leak at the intake.
Keep in mind the PCV valve operates in two modes: The "idling mode" utilizes the high manifold vacuum to hold the PCV valve partially closed to limit the flow of crankcase gasses and thus prevents drawing excessive fresh air into the oil filler cap filter. The "driving mode", where manifold vacuum is reduced, allows the PCV valve to relax and flow more crankcase air. It's a simple enough system that I don't see where it could be defective by design. A secondary function of the PCV valve while operating in both of these modes is to act as a check valve to prevent fresh fuel/air from flowing backward into the crankcase.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: Corroded intake manifold? -- Tom, 07/23/2002
thanks, Dave. I have had the valve covers off and there is no covering film of the sort you describe. Nevertheless, I imagine there could be a leak in the intake that was small enough not to cause such a filmy deposit. Your idea is a brilliant one though. I do recall having heard that the cross-overs are prone to corroding out, but I hadn't put 2 and 2 together. |
| C7TE-A rods? -- Ted Young, 07/22/2002
What size FE engines will C7TE-A rods work in? Are these standard rods?
Thanks,
Ted |
| | FE and FT rods are the same. -- Dave Shoe, 07/22/2002
Rods found in FT heavy trucks, FE light trucks, and FE cars are all the same during the trucking years (1964-1978).
The 352, 360FE and 361FT share a long skinny rod, the 390FE (car and light truck versions), 391FT, 410, and 428 share the short reinforced rod design.
They can be mixed between car and truck as desired.
Shoe. |
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