Thanks Barry I was wondering how tall it is A little concerned on hood clearance

It will still work if you attach a tube or a hose to the fitting that goes to your radiator so that it is inside your overflow tank and the open end is always below the level of coolant in the overflow tank. If air is allowed into that hose or tube then the radiator will suck air back in instead of coolant. I'm using a regular radiator cap on mine and like I say it works great.

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you cannot restrict oil to the lifters since they were never drilled. Restricting oil to the heads will entail a hole (about .060) in a dowel put in the passage under the rocker stand passage. This engine features larger passages than other FE's, and does not need much other than matching the main saddles where the bearing hole sits. The factory runs a drill bit here, but it can be improved upon. I would be leary of a stock pan. When using one, weld in a diamond shaped box around the pick-up, (with slots or trap doors) and weld some tabs in three places on top of the pick up to break up the vortice that will form at speed (of the oil) and start sucking air. I ran Accusunp's with stock pans, and know it saved many an engine in claimer racing. Dual filters are a good idea if you have the room. Light weight synthetic oil is going to do a better job of returning to the pan. I have used 0-30 Mobil-1 in the summer, with plenty of pressure. The only area of concern in the block, is the rear relief spring can hang open if there is any contamination in the oil. Make darn sure you have the correct spring in there, and that the valve has no burrs on it or the passage. I have always built my own oil pans, and if you can, you should too. Some custom creativity may be needed, but its worth it. If not a T-pan, then maybe a triangular one will fit. I saw one guy who had no clearance, take two oil filter cannisters and weld them to the sump for two extra quarts capacity, ugly, but effective. Be sure to run the oil pump for a while with a drill while you turn the engine over by hand to ensure oiling at the rockers before fire up. Six quarts will be needed if you do not increase the pan size. Good luck, and keep it clean.

First of all, I would NOT use a HP pump. The HV pump perhaps, but if you run the entire quarter mile at high rpm, you can fill the valve covers and potentially pump air to the main bearings. Therefore a larger oil sump is always a good idea, with baffles because under acceleration the oil is sloshed to the rear of the pan.

As for the side oiler feature, forget it. It's a total waste of money, especially the PSE kit. It was a waste of money when Ford did it. The only (only) reason a sideoiler even exists, it because an alternate way of oiling was required when they pulled out the block mounted camshaft and bolted on the SOHC heads. If it wasn't for the intent to go with the SOHC motor in NASCAR, the sideoiler would have never existed, because it simply was not necessary. Anyone boogering up a perfectly good topoiler trying to make a sideoiler is operating with what I would consider "poor grade information".

A 427 has no oiling deficiency other than the fact that you can drain the sump and pump air. As far as getting oil to the bearings, if you have it in the sump, you'll have it at the bearings.

That's my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions :-) It is, however, your car, your motor, and your money.

All the best,

P

i'm currently doing the same thing with my 66 GT fairlane using a 64 topoiler 427. a friend of mine is making me a pair of adapter plates that sandwhich between the rubber mount and block that allows the use of the other two holes that you need for the 66 but aren't there on the block. we are trying a few different things to keep them super thin for obvious reasons. they are machined to the exact shape of the rubber mount so they aren't seen. we just have to machine or drill a small indentation in the back of the rubber mount for clearence for one bolt head....i'll be doing this hopefully in the next few days, so i'll let you know how it works........joe

I once installed Fairlane 390 manifolds on my 1969 Cyclone CJ.

I removed a set of Cyclone brand headers ($89.00 a set at MAS two decades ago) and installed some 390 Fairlane exhaust manifolds and could not squeal the tires from a dead stop. The car previously ran like a raped ape with the headers. I quickly bought a new set of Cyclone headers (the other set was getting old).

Note that there is an extra port mismatch between the 390 Fairlane exhaust manifold and the 428CJ heads - such a mismatch that exhaust can sometimes leak out above the 390 manifold - but they are still the most restrictive FE manifold ever made for any vehicle (my opinion). Use them if you seek the stock appearance or a smooth quiet ride, but if you want performance you need to upgrade the exhaust manifolds. The rest of the exhaust system is fine.

Keep in mind: When you replace the intake and exhaust manifolds with CJ items, your engine will behave much like a 428CJ.

You will need FPA headers for the 390GT with those heads. CJ exhaust manifolds fit both high and low exit heads, but you'll need to redrill one hole to get them to work on the 390 engine.

Shoe.

As I understand it, the 427 came with two cranks.

Most of em came with the cast iron crank, similar to the 390. Only a few came with the steel crank. Therefore if you use a 390 crank, you essentially have a 427 crank, for all practical purposes.

P