I have the one from my '64 Galaxie 390 with toploader- but it doesn't have the correct '64 part number. It fits the car and the trans perfectly. Includes clutch fork and inspection cover.

I'll let it go super cheap but it's not worth the hassle of crating and shipping. Too damned heavy!

-Bill

Before you take a little trip to sunny Southern Cali to visit Bill, what are you installing this 65/66 390 engine and '64 top loader into? I've re-read your post trying to gleen a hint from where this combo is going and I don't see it. It matters.

If this FE/'64 trans is going into a '65 & later full size, you are somewhat restricted to using the '65 & later Full Size FE stick bell housing. The eqaulizer shaft pivots off the side of the bellhousing in these years. Then you have to have the right flywheel/ring gear to go with the '65 & later starter.

If this FE/'64 trans is going into a '64 & older full size, you can use just about any FE stick bellhousing you want as long as you have the right bolt pattern and flywheel/ring gear to go with the starter you use. You can use a '65 & later starter in a '64 and older bellhousing as long as you have the correct count ring gear. Make sense?

Now maybe you're planning on installing this in a unibody Fairlane/Mustang etc. Doable. But again, you should use the C6OE bell housing.

And for mating the narrow '64 top loader to a bell housing that's just for the wide pattern '65 and later....that's doable too. But a whole nuther story and I'm outta time.

yes it should be.....Have a look at the web site below.

http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-fuel-pump.html

open

n/m

The first file I tried to upload was about a 125kb .jpg file. I got an error message saying there was a 100kb limit. So I compressed it to the posted size of 56kb (now it's 6.1kb). What I failed to do was to manage the frame size of the pic. My software happened to be set at 6.8in H x 10.24 W. If I had downsized this to 4x5 for example I don't think we would be discussing this. I also did not know how my picture dimensions would translate to this forum ( I do now!).

So again: I APOLOGIZE! Mr. F you do a terrific job managing this forum and I appreciate it. Trust me, I had no intentions of making your life managing this forum more difficult than it already must be. This forum is the best both content and software.

Pictures can be made any size that you suggest. How about putting a little reminder note by the Post button.

Thanks...

n/m

There were two PBF chrome covers. The style you have on your '67 and the later style that had PBF in a rectangle. Neither is available new. They do show up on Ebay all the time, though. I think Mr. FoMoCo may have some in his store as well. It is usually cheaper to buy a set rather than having your existing covers chromed.

I may have a set for you, Brett. A guy in my garage has a 67 Fairlane with a 390 that is outfitted with the chrome Power By Ford valve covers. I just found out today that he is switching to aluminum covers to match his new tri-power setup's air cleaner lid. I do not remember the condition of the covers, but I will inspect them tomorrow and get a price - IF he wants to sell them. Write to me at cyclone65afx@aol.com and I will let you know tomorrow night!
Best,
George
And take that Insanity Test I posted earlier!

I'm working to get some text and photos together which will help ID the various versions of FE components, but it's actually a massive project, and I'm always getting sidetracked onto interesting new details.

There are many webpages which partially identify FE stuff, but most of these contain the standard errors which have been republished so often over the decades. I've been working to offer corrections to these pages, but time gets in the way of my helping. Presently, my HTML efforts are aimed at offering some corrections to established pages, but even this is moving slowly, as my time is being consumed elsewhere.

I know the info we've been learning and establishing in the forums will eventually make it into print and onto the web. Until then, we've just got to wait for the right person(s) to get the ball rolling.

As for finding a place to post a page: Anyone can start a webpage through their ISP. The tough part is to find the time to stuff it full of info. It'll happen sooner or later.

Shoe.

n/m

I would be hot to the touch while triggering. That is the normal condition and why MSD (and other CD manufacturers) say to put it in a place where it can be cooled by circulating air.

As far as it being electrically hot, yes there as well. The capacitor stores electrical energy and releases it when grounded. The correct wiring method is to wire the hot lead to a constant voltage source, like the battery positive. You can discharge the capacitor and cause a spark without the engine running anytime you trigger the collapse of the field. Now, normally you would need to have voltage to the coil to cause a continuous trigger such as when using a remote starter when running the valves so if that's whats happening, check the secondary wiring to your coil to ensure that your bumping the engine with the ingition off shows no voltage to the coil + terminal.

When you think about it, even though the "box" is always electrically hot, without a trigger for the capacitor charge/discharge, it becomes inert. If your box continuously fires without the ignition key being on, then you've got something going on with your wiring which seems a little unlikely since the car would continue to run with the key off.

if i rember right all FE Family Blocks got 353 Cast in them the c5aea means its a 65 Block and its a stand block from 1965 and the water pump is from 1969

you normally can not tell from the casting numbers if an engine is a 428 or not because the same numbers are used on almost FE's from 66 on. that being said you supplied 65 numbers and there were no 428's until 66 so you either have a 352 or a 390. hawkrod

I'm also in the process of learning about timing. Total timing includes initial and mechanical. Vacuum does not come in to play yet. First off, verify that your dampener has not moved. Get the motor at TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Your dampener should be at 0 degrees. I'd guess that your getting some mechanical advance in with your initial. At what rpm do you test your initial? If you lower the idle speed, does the timing advance reduce? I need to slow my idle down to 400-500rpm in order to take mechanical advance out of the equation. If I have the initial set at 8 degrees BTC at 400rpm, I see 20 degrees advanced at 1000rpm. If your mechanical advance is on the 15L stop, then it should contribute 30 degrees in crank advance. Hook up a timing light, and test the timing from 500-3000rpm in 500rpm intervals. Do this with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. This will show your timing curve and total timing. Run it past 3000rpm to make sure that the advance doesn't go any higher. Only when you get your total initial and mechanical timing dialed in should you move onto the vacuum advance.

When you watch the timing mark on the crank, you are reading the timing event in crankshaft degrees. No mathematical manipulations are necessary. Running a distributor on a machine does require some math but are you sure your timing numbers aren't already converted to crank degrees? 26-degrees of vacuum advance is very high. I've never heard of a vacuum can giving more than 20-degrees. Most are in the 10 to 20-degree range.

There is no one size fits all when it comes to ignition timing. You want to allow for a margin of error...give yourself enough headroom that you won't destroy your engine by having your timing on the sharp edge. Many factors contribute to optimal timing. They include the vehicle, driving style, engine components, fuel quality and octane rating, cooling capacity, and other related items.

It's always hard to say where to start, but for the best driving situation, you want to run as much initial advance as you can and control your total advance with the centrifugal by tuning the rate of advance and the amount. The rate is important because having full centrifugal advance too soon can cause detonation and surging. I can't say that having it all in by 2,000 rpm is bad for you since I know nothing about the other elements, but I can guess that it is probably a bit too early for full advance. If your vacuum advance is connected to a ported source, then you will see your vacuum advance come in when you begin to open the throttle. Vacuum advance cans, regardless of ported or manifold, have a range of operation. They generally don't contribute advance below 8"hg and contribute the most advance in the 15 to 20"hg range.

Now, it is very common for the outter inertial ring to slip on elastomeric dampers. This means that unless you use a degree wheel, you don't know what your true timing numbers are. In this case, it is best to tune for best operation with that safety margin and use the numbers off the balancer as a reference rather than a true reading. In other words...don't worry, be happy.

...2500 RPM at the distributor is the same as 5000 RPM at the crankshaft.

I can't help because timing is still too complicated for me to figure out.

Shoe.

Here's a good article on the subject. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/index.shtml

Try the general forum

Your cam may be a bit mild to see much in the line of benefits with 352 cubes, but it'll bolt on with no trouble, and the slight port mismatch will be fine (MR-LR).

You will need to come up with a road-draft tube or PCV arrangement, because your valve covers don't have vents in them. This is no major deal.

Also, I don't recall whether the RPM has the alignment pin groove cut into the front of the manifold. Your early FE block will definitely have a pin sticking out the top to align the manifold. If the mating groove is not cut into the manifold, you'll need to yank the 1/4" dia pin out of the block.

Shoe.

this is a test

This intake doesn't have a hole for the oil fill tube, does your valve covers have one?

Hood clearance may be an issue.