I've read many times that the smaller BJ/BK carbs are a much better street setup and hold their own in moderate street/strip setups as well. I bought a set of BK/BJ's because so may people seem to like them and a couple of folks said they do well on the dyno. I haven't installed mine yet. As I peer down the 8 barrels they look fairly small, but, there ARE 8 of them after all...

I would imagine that a stroker 427 could handle the bigger carbs if it weren't for the tall gearing.

Wayne K.
Building a 416

The BC / BD's are not much different. If you are buying new ones the BJ/BK's are better for a street application.

The old timey Fomoco cam grind is a poor choice in my opinion. Lots of newer grinds by Comp Cams or others will get you better street manners and more horsepower. Those old factory grinds had low lift, tight LSA and long seat - to seat duration. Modern cams have steeper ramps, wider LSA and more lift for better cylinder filling so while seat - to - seat numbers might look similar the .050" numbers are way different.

Royce

Take the radius of the bore squred times pie times the length of the stroke times the number of cylinders. This computes the CID. You need to figure this out because it will change every time the motor bore and stroke changes.

R Sqrd X Pie X length X # cyl= CID.

Take the CID and divide it by 1728.There are 1728 CI's for every cubic foot. Since CFM deals with cubic feet you convert this.

427/1728=.247=CFD

What you need to know now is the the MAX RPM, redline RPM.

Take the CFD and multiply by half of the MAX RPM this will give you the proper CFM carb for the motor. Lets say the redline is 5500 RPM.

.247 X (5500/2)= CFM

.247 X 2750=679 CFM

the c8ax -c cam,needs a bit more gear to work,like a 350,391,ps where did he find that old cam?i had one that worked pretty good

If are thinking about buying the snake cobra jet valve covers from Branda shelby I would wait a little bit on it.Mine havent come in yet but I am hearing from other people who have gotten them say the quality is pretty bad.

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Since your car was stored, a fuel problem is likely. However, most problems are ignition related. Try cleaning the points with a bit of emery paper first. Wires are new, so not too likely a problem there. But try running the car at night anyway, and look for spark leakage around the wires, coil, etc. As far as fuel goes, try a little alcohol in the tank as there may be water in it due to condensation. Next is to clean the carb. Oh, one other thing.....make sure some squirrel didn't load your air cleaner full of acorns. This has happened to me more than once.....chuckle.

too many things to go wrong with metering rods and springs,thats why i stayed with the old holleys,check your accelerator pump,might not be putting in enough of a off idle squirt

Hi Mike!

Here's a blurb I saved a while ago that talks about casting and assembly date codes. Can't remember where I got it but read thru it a few times and see if it makes sense.

1958 Engine Coding

I have been following the question of date-coding '58 motors, and finally found time to offer what I'm aware of. According to Management Service Letter M-167a, the casting date of motor block for the 352 is supposed to be cast on the side or the front of the block, with the engine's assembly date stamped on a machined pad/boss just below and forward of the #1 cylinder exhaust port on the driver's front corner of the block (the dipstick tube passes by it).

Casting codes were also given in the bulletins. In '58, the block casting date can be found either on the front surface of the block to the right of the water pump or on the right side of the block in the area of the #1 cylinder. For instance, 8AS:2 translates into 8=1958; A=November; S=18th Day of Month; 2=Casting shift.

The coding should include year, month, work shift and date along with assembly plant code.

To quote the Bulletin for the casting date: "...codes use a number to indicate the year. The second figure may be either a number or letter to indicate the month as follows: 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-0-A-B. The third symbol is either a screw head for Cleveland built units (flat for the day shift or round for the night shift) or a letter for Dearborn built units to denote the day of the month (A through Z with the exception of I, and inverted A through F).

An illustration is also shown for the assembly date code. For example, it gives 3-8BFP. The first figure indicates the assembly plant (1-Cleveland Plant #1, 2-Cleveland Plant #2, 3-Dearborn Engine Plant); the second digit indicates year; third digit indicates month, and fourth digit indicates day. The fifth digit is a mark assigned to an inspector at the plant.
Therefore, 3-8BFP translates to: 3=Dearborn Engine Plant; 8=1958; B=February; F= 5th day of month; P=Inspector's Code

The 430's assembly date is supposed to be stamped on the block in front of the left head, according to the '60 bulletin M-204.

Additional cast codes on the block: DIF means Dearborn Industrial Foundry, while Cleveland-cast blocks have a C and L imposed on each other (similar to the symbol for Center Line). An engine's casting foundry can also be ID'd as follows: all 352 blocks have the number 5750603 cast on the right side of the area of #1 cylinder: Dearborn cast this number upside down, Cleveland right side up. The 430's were all cast at Dearborn, have number 5752001 cast on the right side of the area of #1 cylinder and have "DIF" foundry marks.

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i,d say if the car is a early 1968 bild i,d say a 1967 block would be the corect one.i,v sean one year earlyer moters in unmolested cars that i new for a fact was corect .

what you see is the casting date,not neccessarily the build date,example,428 cj intake cast in oct 68,put on a 69 mustang,assembled in april 1969

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=29171&Reply=29171

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