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 |  I got the 66 Galaxie rusty frame blues!?! -- Alan Casida, 02/26/2002
I got the bright idea over this winter to remove the drivetrain and suspension from my car and clean and paint the underneath. I had heard this was a problem but my car was rust free and even after I removed the under coating it looked great. Upon closer inspection I found a couple of very small pin holes in bottom of the frame about at the front of the drivers side door and I got my pecking hammer out and these pin holes quickly turned into big holes in about a 12" length on both sides of the car. Bummer.It is rusted from the inside out. I was hoping to get by without removing the frame, but after trying to repair it I have decided to get another frame. I ordered one from Desert Valley Auto Parts(www.dvap.com) out of Arizona.They say they will guarantee rot and collision free parts. I was hoping to have my 428CJ w/new TKO 5 speed back in the car by now but it looks like it is going to be a long spring and maybe summer. |
|  | RE: I got the 66 Galaxie rusty frame blues!?! -- Mike McQuesten, 02/26/2002
This is a common problem with '65 & later full size Fords/Mercs. The new perimeter frame intro'ed in '65 offered some benefits. However, these perimeter framed cars driven regularly in snow belt areas, where road salt/chemicals were used, got a constant blasting of the road gunk. I remember my disappointment after purchasing what appeared to be a nice, rust free, '65 XL w/390 & factory 4 speed. And I thought I knew where to look for rust having lived in this region all of my life. Later I was working under the car and noticed some odd "surface rust" near the front corners of that frame. It wasn't just surface rust.....big time rot!
A critical area for you to analyze before purchasing a '65 & later perimeter framed car. Good luck with your new frame. Big project. But forces you to do a real "frame up resto". Don't you always wonder about those "frame off & up" restos on Unibody cars? |
|  | Got my replacement frame today! -- Alan Casida, 02/27/2002
It appears to be a whole lot better than my original one although it has more surface rust on it(no undercoating). I beat around on it where my frame has holes and no holes popped out and I couldn't get any big pieces of rust out of the insides of the perimeter tubes like on my old one so I will keep my fingers crossed while sand blasting it. This was definitely not the way I wanted $770.00!($450+320 shipping) |
| FE cam bearing install -- Jon, 02/26/2002
I feel stupid for asking but I got my 390 block back from the machine shop and the cam bearings I think are installed wrong. the oiling hole is lined up with the supply side main gallery not the hole towards the crank like I thought they were when it went out. Every Ford book I have just says line up the bearings "with the oil holes". which holes? |
|  | RE: FE cam bearing install -- Bo Fabre, 02/26/2002
Jon, I was going to post the very same question this morning but you beat me to it. I looked at my 428 block last night and found the cam bearings at positions 3,4,5 to have the holes around the 3 o'clock position facing the block from the front. Bearings 1,5 have their holes aligned with the hole going to the mains. The bearings must be grooved around the back of the shell to allow oil to pass around. My 69 Ford Manual states the same " must align with hole in block". Which hole? |
| |  | RE: FE cam bearing install -- Travis Miller, 02/26/2002
You guys got me wondering about my customers 390 block I just picked up from the machine shop. I had it hot tanked, bored .030, and new cam bearings installed. The front cam bearing has the two oil holes lined up with the holes in the block. The rest of the cam bearings have their only hole in them aimed straight down at the oil passage toward the mains. But it looks like there is a groove in the block behind the cam bearings. Anyone got a bare block out there with no cam bearings in it so they can describe what the cam bearing area looks like? |
| | | Three o clock is the ideal spot... -- kevin, 02/26/2002
for 2-5. Number 1 is required to be as is but the others will work in any position (unless you have a side oiler) so dont worry too much. Make sure you put the cam in carefully without nicking any bearing and be sure you can turn it with your hand without any tight spots. |
| | | | cam bearing area -- shagg, 02/26/2002
I had my 390 apart a long time ago, the is a channel behind the bearings 2,3,4 and 5. the oil will go around to the mains no matter what, I just want to know if there is a right direction or a wrong one that might change the psi or flow or somethin. |
| | | | The area behind bearing is the biggest problem.. -- kevin, 02/26/2002
with FE oil system. It is a bottleneck that needs reworked, (bigger-smoother). As far as the 3 o'clock biz goes, the load on the cam from being driven by the chain pulling it down, stresses the 3 to 7-8 o'clock area and with the feed hole at the begining of this range, it has the most film strength possibility. |
| | | | | RE: The area behind bearing is the biggest problem.. -- jon, 02/26/2002
Ahhh that makes sense Kevin. thanks. Have you done this before? If so did you make that "bottle neck area" smoother or anything? |
| | | | | | Absolutely.... -- kevin, 02/26/2002
I drill through all the way with a 5/16th's from the saddle through the main, and come back down almost to the cam groove with a 7/16th's. Then I get in and widen, deepen, smooth, the entrance and exit holes with tiny grinders with various burrs and stones. I drill the main passages all to 7/16th's and use screw in plugs on EVERY engine I build. This works on SBC engines too. No more oil worries unless you suck air. |
| Thunderbolt special on speedvision -- R Shannon, 02/26/2002
Anybody see the special on the Thunderbolt on speedvision last weekend. Was pretty good except they didn't show enough of the car. remember the first time I seen them run at KCI. |
| | RE: Thunderbolt special on speedvision -- Brett, 02/26/2002
Good show. However, I was also disappointed in the lack of pictures and details of the car. It seems like they talked more about it's Mopar counterparts than the T-bolt itself. |
| Carb help needed. -- Bill, 02/25/2002
Greetings All:
I have a '68 GT-500KR and want to replace the carb because of wear. I have the original 735 Holley and would like to get something as close to identical as possible as I would like to maintain the original performance of the car.
The only replacement carb that Holley lists in their O.E. Musclecar series is a 730 CFM that was used on the '69 428 CJ with AT. (Holley part # 0-4609, O.E. # C9AF-9510-U)
Anyone have any thoughts on using this as a replacement? Or, does anybody have any suggestions on other options available?
Thanks,
Bill |
| | RE: Carb help needed. -- Bob, 02/25/2002
The only thing that truly wears is the throttle body. I'd just get a universal replacement and use the rest of the original carburetor. JMO |
| | Get the old one restored. -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
I had the 735 CFM carb on my 68 1/2 428 CJ restored, it had wobbly shafts and all kinds of missing parts. Looks like new and runs great since restoration by Joe Bunetic. Contact me at my email address if you want Joe's address and phone. He turns a carb in 2 weeks typically, my last one was done in 10 days from the time I shipped it. Cost is between $175.00 to $250.00 including recoloring and plating all parts.
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE:Joe Bunetic! -- Mike McQuesten, 02/25/2002
Is the best! He's the one who did my tri power Holleys. He does beautiful work. He does the extra. He cares. Great carb guy. He'll being doing two COAE Holleys for me soon. |
| | | | Perfection -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
C8AF 9510-AD
List 4088
834
[Image edited for size by Admin.]
 |
| | | | | uh, royce.... -- hawkrod, 02/25/2002
while what you are showing us is perfection (i assume nos) i don't think it is a 427 carb! not that you said it was a 427 carb, but i keep seeing these advertised as GTE carbs and to my knowledge they are not. i have C8AF-AD carbs and the 67 dated carbs have a different throttle arm with out the kickdown. i think this is a small block carb that also happens to use the same part number but has the 69 linkage. the small block carbs are in the 69 performance parts catalog and clearly show the linkage as yours has (i think it is on pages 27 and 37 if i remember correctly). hawkrod |
| | | | | | Uh, actually it is a 427 GTE carb. -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
Tom,
The C8AF 9510 AD carbs are the original carbs on 427 GTE Cougars. Look in the illustrated parts catalog, the shop manual, the Autolite tune up specs for 1968, the Lincoln Mercury Service Bulletins for 1968, or any other reference for 1968 and you will see that it is so.
The kickdown linkage is present on these carbs because there were intentions to produce 1968 Fairlanes and Cyclones with the 427 engine. The carbs were made to be able to work in both configurations, hence the kickdown arm which is not needed on a 1968 Cougar.
C8AF 9510 - ADA carbs were sold as service replacements beginning in 1969. They are identical except for teflon bushed throttle shafts introduced across the Holley line that year.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | | | | Royce got anymore pix of carby.ned for reference.n -- peter(pop428), 02/25/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | | | RE: Royce got anymore pix of carby.ned for reference.n -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
This is a C8AF 9510-AD but side views of 390GT, 427 and 428CJ carbs from 1968 are the same.
Royce Peterson
[Image edited for size by Admin.]
 |
| | | | | | | | | Thank's so much....Royce. -- peter(pop428), 02/26/2002
I'm restoring a '69 mach1 428cj-r and this will give me an idea as to how the Holley's will look.
Would this be similar to my 735cfm 9510 / n |
| | | | | | | RE: Uh, actually it is a 427 GTE carb. -- hawkrod, 02/25/2002
well.... good point except that the fairlanes didn't have the kickdowns on the carb either (not until 70 anyway). i have a july 67 carb and an august 67 carb and they have a totally different arm on them with no kickdown. look in the ford muscle parts catalog from the fall of 68 and it clearly shows the C8AF-AD carb with kickdown for use on small blocks. the price list on page 77 says "$55.40 C8AF-9510-AD 600 CFM 4V 289-302-351". ford had two carbs with one part number! the date on your carb is clearly after the end of 427 production so i think it is one of the ford performance carbs as opposed to an OEM GTE carb. i will try and get a pick of the linkage on one of my carbs. later, hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | RE: Uh, actually it is a 427 GTE carb. -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
Tom,
Good catch on the date, I have others with August 67 and December 67 dates as well as a service replacement with a June 69.
The reference you are speaking of is for hopping up a small block Ford motor. You can find similar references in the same book calling for the use of the 735 CFM Cobra Jet Holley carbs to use on 390's. This also has no connection to the original use of the carb.
Original Holley literature shows the kickdown linkage on these carbs from day one, I used to question it too until my research found that it was correct.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Uh, actually it is a 427 GTE carb. -- hawkrod, 02/25/2002
here is a carb C8AF-9510-AD list 4088 date is 781. the tag reads autolite C8AF-AD 7HC A (three lines). i have had this since i was in high school and although it may have been modified it does not appear so and it was only a few years old when i got it (the guy put dual quads on the car!). i also have a couple with the throttle linkage but they are both dated 834. hawkrod
 |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: Uh, actually it is a 427 GTE carb. -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
Tom,
That is exactly the way I figured a GTE carb should look. Unfortunately the original owner cars, Holley prints and every other reference I could find disagrees. Go over to Pinkerton's place in Seattle and see his low mileage GTE's, by now he should own two unrestored 427 cars. By the way, 68 1/2 Cobra Jet Carbs have the same kickdown linkage for no apparent reason also.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: Uh, actually it is a 427 GTE carb. -- salid, 02/25/2002
my 68 500KR, engine casting date 8D24, schedule car build date from build sheet 07E, does not have the kickdown lever. |
| | | | | | | | | | Here's another one of mine restored by Joe Bunetic -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
C8AF 9510-AD
List 4088
This has a date of 7A2
[Image edited for size by Admin.]
 |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: Here's another one of mine restored by Joe Bunetic -- hawkrod, 02/26/2002
okay now i have to ask (since i am being a pain anyway) i can see the numbers in the metering block and none of my original carbs have two numbers like the one you show. the small lower number is a list number and should match the carb body but it was a change i thought that holley had made later and it does not look like the number matches your list number either (but i could be wrong because it is hard to see). can you enlighten me here? i know that carbs made after 1970 have the list number stamped on the metering blocks and the base plates but i have quite a few original carbs (GT, CJ, boss, even a couple of NOS tunnel port carbs!) from low mile cars and none of them have list numbers on the metering blocks. hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | | | | | Once again Tom catches me! -- Royce Peterson, 02/26/2002
Tom,
The forward metering block on that carb is a replacement from a List 4699. The original had several problems that rendered it unusable.
I thought you might question the 7A2 date code on the carb. This translates as follows:
7= 1967 Year of Manufacture
A = November, Month of Manufacture
2= second week of month
1968 GTE 427 engine manufacture can be documented between August 1967 and the end of January 1968 although 427 cars were assembled as late as June 1968. A carb with 834 date (1968, March, 3rd week) would be acceptable from a judging standpoint at a CCOA meet but probably did not come on an original engine as you said in an earlier post. It would likely be a service replacement / warranty replacement type of part.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: Once again Tom catches me! -- hawkrod, 02/26/2002
sorry royce, no disrespect intended <G> i don't know if you watch my e-bay listings but carbs and distributors are one of my staples. i buy and sell dozens every month and pride myself on "correct" core carbs. my personal collection is about 30 rare carbs that i use for trading only but i sell 4 barrels of any type. lately i really have not been focusing on holleys but rather more mundane stuff like small block and full size cars. thunderbirds are really getting to be tough and i have sold quite a few 58-63 carbs lately. like the man says "its all in the details". the november and december date code catches a lot of people off guard and you would not believe how often i have to pull out a holley book to show the breakdown in writing before people will believe me! hawkrod |
| Looking for "Inspection Plate" -- Butch, 02/25/2002
I don't know the exact name for this part, but it's the plate the covers the flywheel on a '69 Fairlane 428 4-speed. I've heard it called an "Inspection Plate" or "Dust Cover" or "Flywheel Cover". Anyone know where I can get a replacement?
Thanks,
Butch |
| | RE: Looking for "Inspection Plate" -- BOB HOPKINS, 02/26/2002
i BELEIVE i HAVE SEEN SOME ON E-BAY CHECK UNDER FORD 427 PARTS |
| Rocker arm "tick tick tick". Royce I need you. -- James, 02/25/2002
I have a tick that I cannot cure. I adjusted the rockers apon assembly with no problems. The engine has 6000 miles on it and it is full of oil with good oil pressure. Yesterday it started going tick tick tick from the valve cover area. I found one push rod loose and adjusted it. The tick is still there. I think I have a lifter going bad but would like wiser heads to tell me what they have encountered when this happened to them. |
| | RE: Rocker arm "tick tick tick". Royce I need you. -- Mac, 02/25/2002
it is the lifter i had the same problem a few months ago in my 351c |
| | Ticky lifters -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
Hi James,
Did you try adjusting all the valves? Maybe there is another one that is loose.
I have had trouble in the past with factory style rockers backing off after a few thousand miles. My experience is that you can only adjust them once or twice and then it's time for oversize adjusters. Seems like Isky or Crane used to sell a Chrysler style adjuster screw assembly with a stop nut to cure this problem, I wonder if anyone on the FE Forum has bought any recently?
Other possibilities would be a valve tip wearing or a cam that is going flat. What cam are you running James and what # valve springs?
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: locking adjusters -- Mike McQuesten, 02/25/2002
Check out item #1808222058 on ebay. These are the lock-nut adjusters that replace the self-locking adjusters on adjustable FE rockers.
There's also a company in CA, Rocker Arm Specialists. Thay offer a complete refurbished FE rocker arm with a lock nut style adjuster. I've purchased their complete set with HD shafts, billet alum. stands/end supports. Haven't run 'em yet but they look nice. Hope they work well.
I've had similar probs with the stock adjustable locking adjusters loosing their locking ability thus allowing them to back out and cause obvious problems. Don't like 'em. Won't run them anymore.
Here's a crazy quick fix if you ever have a stock style adjuster back out on you......you carry a few tools along right? Remove the adjuster, use a handy tool like a hammer or vice grips or a rock. Smack the adjusters threads up a little so they're buggered and run it back into the rocker. When I showed one of my "bad rockers" to a machinist friend who once owned a HP 390, he told me this was how he took care of his loose rockers which he said was a common malady.
Have I actually used this method? No. |
| | | RE: Ticky lifters -- James, 02/26/2002
Lanati cam & lifters, Hydrolic. The springs are what came on the Edelbrock heads. Harlen-Sharp roller tip rockers. The adjustment nut did not back off. I just got in it one day and it was ticking. The longer I drove it that day the louder it got . I readjusted all of them on the offending side by bumping the engine until the distributor was pointing at one of the plug wires to one of the cylinders on that side. I then went to that cylinder's rockers, making sure they were even first, and readjusted them by taking all the up and down slack out of the push rods. Then, I turned them 1/2 turn more. Most of the tick went away but it still goes "tick". This tick is not constant anymore but it is smooth then "tick" about every so many revolutions. Once I turned them all about 1full turn in and it went away but got scared a redid them in fear of flattening the cam and Mr. Tick is back but only every so many revolutions. I will redo them and let you know how it comes out. |
| | Rocker adjustment -- GaryXL, 11/11/2004
The best way I've learned to adjust lifters is not with each cylinder at TDC, but to use the "Exhaust opens-adjust Intake/Intake closes-adjust Exhaust". I have used this on all my solid cam cars, and also use it when making the inital adjustment on a Hyd cam motors.
For Hyd cam motors, just use one hand to spin the pushrod, and tighten it until it doesn't spin FREELY, go another 1/2 turn, then make a final adjustment with the engine running after the cam is broken in.
Hope this helps. |
| | | RE: Rocker adjustment -- giacamo, 11/11/2004
check the gides, don,t laugh i,v sean gides wiped out at under 3000 miles if all else fails.look real close at the gides.... |
| | Xr7-g -- Royce Peterson, 02/25/2002
Hi Dan,
I appreciate you bringing that to my attention. Last year we added about ten XR7-G's to the registry, so far this year only one and March is almost here.
Visit the XR7-G website at:
www.theclassiccougarnetwork.com/xr7g
Royce Peterson |
| Help! compression ??'s -- Robbie, 02/24/2002
I was on here a few months back with a detonation problem ,,
Here is a fast update:67 GT 500 428 PI with correct BJ BK carbs,4 speed and I want it to run good on pump gas 91 octane,,it is not a race car it is a nice original car with a great pedigree,but I don't want a lathargic slug,as it was,, I only had 29-30 degrees of total timming in it,to stop the detonation which really slowed down the car)
I was figuring compression from memory of what was in the engine At the time I was assuming the compression was at 11.7:1,,BUT,, now I have the engine apart and I CCed the heads and pistons etc etc(70 cc head,14.5 cc piston dish .005 deck height) and I come up to 10.3:1,,Is this right??
i contacted Gessford engines in nebraska and they said I wanted the compression at 9 to 9.5:1 and 36-38 degrees total timing and the car would run entirely better,,is this correct??I will buy new pistons to acheive this comp ratio if nessecary but I don't want to spend 800.00 on pistons to find I should have left the 10.3:1 pistons in it ,,,HELP I'm a small block guy and this FE is eatin my lunch
Robbie Musick |
| | RE: Help! compression ??'s -- Bob, 02/24/2002
First with the thick, 0.045 compositiion gasket, I get 10.1 assuming your bore is stock.
Open up the combustion chambers by unshrouding the valves and smoothing the floor. You should be able to get to add three cc's to the combustion chamber volume and get down to 9.8 this way.
You will need to get to 78 ccs for a 9.5 ratio. Probably not possible unless you spend lots hours in the combustion chambers with a grinder.
The other option is to cut a dish in the top of the pistons on a lathe. You should be able to get a circle 3-1/2 nches in diameter, at least half as deep as the valve reliefs. I did this once but don't recall the actual new piston cc'c. |
| | | RE: Factory spec was 10-10.5 See this page... -- Bob, 02/24/2002
Yes and most cc to about 10. Some are as low as 9.7. A few make 10.2. |
| | | | RE: Factory spec was 10-10.5 See this page... -- Robbie, 02/24/2002
But am I better off with a lower reading than 10.?:1,,say 9.5 or will the drop in compression also ruin the way it runs?,,As a small block guy 10.5 seems reasonable but I'm hereing that is to high for FEs |
| | | | | RE: Factory spec was 10-10.5 See this page... -- Bob, 02/24/2002
You will need premium fuel with the higher compression. What can you afford? |
| | | | | 10-10.5 is a workable range w/ premium fuel. [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/24/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | RE: 10-10.5 or 11.1 w/ premium fuel. -- Ray, 02/24/2002
No problem! |
| | | | | | | RE: 10-10.5 or 11.1 w/ premium fuel. -- Ray, 02/25/2002
Let me explain, it's a way of controling detonation or preignition even in a 11to 1 motor. The problem is most engines need to be tuned for that high compression, but rarely are. Most of pinging or detanation accurs becouse your burn- is completed before the piston reaches TDC, it's trying to push the piston backwards! It then develops want they call a duell flame front, it's actually burning metal at that point and not controled at all. If you set up your advance in your distributor so it comes on slower and limit the amount of advance, say no more than 28 to 32 degrees total advance ( depend on the engine). But you still have a ping to it, you'll fatten (jet) up the primaries to about .004 to .006 to start with or untill the ping goes away. What your are doing is slowing the down the burn time so that its completed just as reaches TDC or after. What you are doing is finding the right air fuel ratio for that particular timing and compression. Ray PS, polished chambers will also help in more ways than one. |
| | | | | | RE: 10-10.5 is a workable ,also PCV? -- Robbie, 02/25/2002
I have been running 91 octane in it with a booster as it is ans still it runs a little sluggish,,Maybe I'm expecting too much from it,,I have a boss 302 that will run rings around it ,,even on the top end because of timing i'm sure,,
It has a mechanical distr that I have slowed WAY down inside and a total of 30'w/ MSD box and 1300 CFM of carbs it should be fat I would think at WOT,,That is the only place I get a ping,,
I take it everyone recommends unshrouding the valves and polishing the chambers and reassembling it as say a 10.1:1 motor?instead of dropping it on down to 9.5 ,,Thanks for the input everyone I'm just frustrated. Seems all the rules are different just a little on an FE compared to a smal block, not to mention it being 2x4
Also is anyone here certain of the pcv hose connection location on a 67 GT 500(ie vac port in side of intake etc),,there is no port on the carbs
Robbie |
| | | | | | | OK..you did not mention it... -- kevin, 02/25/2002
but I assume it is pure stock. If you want to try some cheaper tricks, block the exhaust crossover in the intake. You will be amazed at the results. Did you accurately degree the cam? Retarding it will help. How about the dampner? It is possible that it is not indexed correctly to the crank, let alone moved on the hub. What do you have for a water pump? The original is not that great. Do you have the original fan, clutch, pulleys, radiator, shroud on it? Try a higher rated cap, 22#'s works for me. Running hot is almost normal for these, so to suppress detonation you must try to keep it cool. A home made tray/heat shield is easy to make under the lower air cleaner lid, sealed to the hood with foam. Is yours a louvered hood? I have one of these cars, so I know what you are going through. I machined the combusion chambers on a set of C7AE-A heads out to huge size before, it's not the way to go. Smaller chamber means less sensitivity to detonation. Did you do a compression test or a leak down test? Spark plugs are a major factor too. I run BF-22's. You may not be able to find them, so a good one is the BTF-31 truck plug. Platinum is a no no. Also Standard oil (Amoco) makes its premium without ever having lead in it. It is consistant from station to station when I checked it for specific gravity, cant say that about the others. Keep pluggin, good luck. |
| | | | | | | | "Platinum is a no-no"...please elaborate... -- Dan Davis, 02/25/2002
...even if the heat range is correct?
Dan |
| | | | | | | | | RE: "Platinum is a no-no"...please elaborate... -- kevin, 02/26/2002
They can cause pre-ignition from the hi tip temp in my opinion. Maybe they are different now or revised I cant say. I had a problem that I thought was a bad MSD box. Thought it was the chip, so upped it to 9,000 and problem was still there. After switching plugs it cleaned up. Upon inspection, I could not find anything wrong after reading plugs. Put them back in, closed the gap up a hair, and it happened again. Switched back to Autolites and had smooth sailng. The following week, tried a new set with the same results. Gave up on em. Now this was a 13.3.1 compression 351 C drag race motor, but other people have told me they experienced similar problems, so I cant tell you more than that, but would like to hear more if anybody likes them. |
| | | | | | | RE: 10-10.5 is a workable ,also PCV? -- Ray, 02/25/2002
Rob, there is so many other variables that can cause a lean condition (pinging) like valve springs, vacuum leaks, high gears, tires to big. If you know you have a solid foundation keep looking, the FE is better tha most. Ray |
| Motocraft Waterpump ? -- Eric, 02/23/2002
I searched high & low and finally found a company that sold new, not reconditioned "Motocraft" water pumps for a 428CJ. I now have questions after receiving it, if it is actually a Motocraft.
Does anyone know the actual stamped numbers that are suppose to be on it ?
The number on this one are: 30769 A
and: 01652
I do not see Motocraft on it anywhere.
Thanks for any help,
Eric |
| | RE: Motocraft Waterpump ? -- SDP, 02/24/2002
Eric, Motorcraft did not manufacture the water pumps. They are just "reboxed" pumps. At one time Motorcraft was using Airtex as their supplier but who knows now.............. |
| | | RE: Motocraft Waterpump ? -- John Saxon, 02/27/2002
Do you know if these water pumps are really the right pumps for the 428CJ ie. the ones with the large diameter cast iron impeller? |
| | | | RE: Motocraft Waterpump ? -- John Saxon, 02/27/2002
Not that picky just wanting to know if those pumps are still available. |
| | | | | RE: Aftermarket Waterpumps ? -- SDP, 02/27/2002
Most all of the aftermarket pumps I have looked at have the larger impeller(Airtex,Perfect circle,Sealed power,etc). |
| | | | | | RE: Aftermarket Waterpumps ? -- John Saxon, 02/28/2002
Are they the cast iron impellers or the cheesy stamped steel ones? |
| | | | | | | RE: Impellers -- SDP, 02/28/2002
I have seen both being used, but as far as I remember the "reman" pumps used the stamped impellers and the new pumps had the cast version. If a guy wants a good pump, get the Edelbrock pump................................... |
| | | | | | | | RE: Impellers -- John Saxon, 02/28/2002
What type of impeller does it use? |
| | | | RE: Motocraft Waterpump ? -- JC, 03/02/2002
I have been in the reman. pump business since 1983 and my experience has been that the cast iron impellers are OEM Ford only. It has been my experience that the aftermarket, including Airtex and LC, use stamped steel impellers. I chose to rebuild a stock pump on my 1970 SCJ to ensure a cast iron impeller. I am not familiar with E-bock's or Shelby's aluminum pump. Remove the backplate and look, does the impeller take up most of the available space? If not, you probably don't have the big impeller. |
| help... torque specs. -- jason, 02/23/2002
I need all the torque specs for a 68 390 GT. with alum. intake... crank caps. heads. the works..
Thanks.
Jason
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| | RE: help... torque specs. -- Bob, 02/23/2002
Your asking for twenty SETS of numbers. Go to the library or buy a repair manual. |
| | FYI: a Ford Shop Manual has all torque specs.[n/m] -- Mr F, 02/24/2002
n/m |
| | | all i need. -- jason, 02/24/2002
K all i need now are the torque specs for the crank caps, rods, and intake (alum).... thansk for all the help.
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| | | | RE: all i need. -- Bob, 02/24/2002
main caps - 95-105
rods 390 - 40-45, 428 - 53-58
intake - 32-35
head bolts - 80-90 |
| | | | | RE: all i need. -- jason, 02/24/2002
great thanks alot man..
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| | | | | Bob, is ~32 lb/ft Ok for aluminum intakes? [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/24/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | RE: Bob, is ~32 lb/ft Ok for aluminum intakes? [n/m] -- Bob, 02/25/2002
The '69 Ford Shop manual did not break out the manifold by type of material - iron or aluminum, there was only on entry. Nor do I recall seeing such a break out in any other Ford shop manual. |
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