Did you use the 428 flywheel?

I used the original automatic tranny, the Fmx, or maybe c6, with the original flexplate from a 65' 390, could that be a possible problem?

I used the automatic tranny, which is a Fmx or possibly a C6 and the original flexplate from the 390 on the 428cj. which is in a 1965 galaxie 500 xl. could that be a possible problem?

Overheating at idle usually means you are not getting enough air through the radiator. Are you running a fan shroud (did they come with fan shrouds)?

What is the diameter at the outside of your water pump pulley and also of your crank pulley which drives the water pump.

Also, what type of fan do you have. Blade count, blade length, clutch or non, factory or aftermarket. Details, please.

Shoe.

Dave,
I agree with the other responses and have some other ideas regarding your situation :

1. Be sure you have a fan shroud installed. If you are using electric fans you probably do not have sufficient airflow, I tried this and it would not work on my car. A water pump driven fan pulls more CFM's. Flex fans pull more than clutch fans.

2. Several sizes of pulley are available for the water pump and crank. A smaller pulley on the water pump will move more water at low RPM.

3. Be sure to run a 50/50 mix of anti freeze and water. Pure anti freeze does not cool properly.

4. Very critical is to be sure you have enough initial timing. Check timing at idle, it should be at least 6 degrees before TDC with the vacuum advance line to the distributor removed and plugged. As much as 18 degrees may be necessary if you have a high overlap / long duration cam or low compression. Bottom line, advance it as far as possible without encountering detonation or pinging under full throttle acceleration.

5. If you are running a straight mechanical advance distributor you will likely not have enough advance at idle. Use a vacuum advance distributor and the temp at idle / low RPM will come down because the engine will have better (more accurate) timing under different loading conditions for street use. Wide open throttle operation is better on race engines with a straight mechanical setup but street engines really need some form of load controlled timing that is possible by using a vacuum advance or a knock sensor to control timing. Another way to approach this is to use a start retard attachment from MSD which will allow lots of initial advance but still let the car start at a retarded spark condition.

Royce Peterson

thank you to all who took the time to help

I too just fixed the same problem with my 428CJ.
After months of looking at the water flow and cooling system, we put an external oil pressure guage on it. It was running real low at idle, (about 10lbs.) and normal above 2500 RPMs. Thus higher friction /heat at idle & low speed then cooled down once I hit the highway.
See if that's the prob., if so, replace the oil pump and pick-up unit.
Good Luck,
Eric

looking at the front of the motor look the the right valve cover now look at the corner that is highest you will see a flat spot on the head if its a 2v it will have a 2 there if its a 4 there will be a 4

n/m

For what kind of vehicle, doing what? What compression ratio are you planning to have?

It looks good but you need to pin down the compression ratio to be sure.

Move up to the Performer RPM manifold. Everything else looks good. Dyno2000 shows 466 ft-lbs at 4000 and 439 HP at 5500 RPM with over 427 ft-lbs from 2000 to 5400 rpm.

What heads are you starting out with? It would take a pile of shaving to get 11:1 out of a set of large chamber smog heads. There is no reason to run high compression in a street truck.
Compare what it is going to cost you for the head porting with new valves and springs, and you may be better off starting with a set of the Edelbrock heads. I agree that a Performer RPM intake would better fit the bill.
It would pay to have the block sonic checked before you go .060 over. Thin walls make for heat on the street.
I would first make sure that the truck is geared decent before spending money on a converter. Glass packs add 2 seconds to your 1/4 mile time :). If you want a low restriction muffler, go with something on the line of a hooker straight through design which will cut the noise down, but not let everyone know how young you are :).

Ed

Anything you need for an FE can be purchased from Summit, they have lots of FE parts in stock but catalog space is based on sales. They are very price competitive except on pistons. The place to buy FE pistons is Race Engineering in Lake Worth, FL phone # is 561-533-5500. They stock all brands and no one can beat their prices. I checked DSC, Blue Oval Performance, Jeg's, Guessford and Summit for a new set of Aries 427 pistons. Race beat the best of the rest by $50.00 and the pistons were at the shop in two days.

Used parts for FE's are best purchased from Perogie (www.perogie.com) or Carl's Ford Parts (www.carlsfordparts.com).

If you are clueless and need lots of guidance then it might pay to use one of the FE specialists like DSC, Guessford or Blue Oval. They charge more because they have smaller volume but you can bet the stuff will be what you need. If you are experienced at building FE's then price shop all the sources above for the best deal, the parts all come from the same manufacturers.

Royce Peterson

Those two Fairlanes are still around. They are both owned by Pat Gerek in Maryland. Until recently Pat raced the cars in SS/C and SS/D.

According to a '68 Shop Manual, the original trans. is a New Process 4 Speed. It's a conventional 2 wheel drive right?

you will like it, believe me. But first what are the head casting #'s?

blocking the heat crossover on a medium or low performance engine will definitely cause a power loss. the intake charge is too cool to keep the fuel properly atomized and so it is puddleing and running to the back cylinders. i'll bet if you pull the plugs and compare them they will be different colors front to rear because of poor mixture. you should only block the heat crossover when you have the cam and exhaust to create strong vacuum due to good flow and valve overlap. hawkrod

the C3-C's came with the 2.03 intake. The C3-D, H, G, and J, had the 2.09 intake size. The exhaust was all the 1.65 stock. There is subtle differences is why I ask. What size cam and which pistons?