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 |  Question about Dove roller rockers -- Mike Braun, 02/05/2002
Hi guys,
I'm building a 485" tunnel port and have a chance to buy a set of the newer wide body Dove shaft rocker assemblies. Anyone out there using them or heard of any problems with them? I'm going to be running a pretty big roller cam and I would like to avoid and valvetrain problems.
TIA,
Mike |
 | 390 hop ups -- jeff, 02/05/2002
i read that 1966 352 cid heads are a nice addition for 390 cid engines, better flow and so on.....ive found some now what should be done ? thankyou jeff |
| 5 speed on a ford fe -- Charlie, 02/05/2002
Has any one here tried a 5 spd on a ford fe? If so what mods did you make? What parts did you use. Where did you get the parts? I know they make an input shaft change kit to put a tremec in early mustangs.
Thanks |
| |  | RE: 5 speed on a ford fe -- John, 02/06/2002
I use a Richmond Gear (formerly Doug Nash) 5-speed mated to my 428 with a Lakewood bellhousing. I use a 3.07 differential and everything works amzingly well. I would say that first gear is a little "tall". and I might go with one of the lower option 1st gears next time. The rest of the gears are well matched for road speed vs rpm |
| | |  | RE: 5 speed on a ford fe -- John C, 02/06/2002
I am currently installing a NV 4500 , 5 speed in my 67 f100 . so far every thing is going fairly well. had to fabricate new crossmember for tranny support. the worst thing other than the cost( about 2000.00) is the only tranny mount i could find to work is a chevy mount. LOL John |
| Oil Pressure Problem -- Al, 02/05/2002
I have a 65 tbird with the stock 390. The oil pressure goes low at idle after it has been run at hiway speed for a while. It always starts cold with good pressure and shows good pressure while running at hiway speed. But, when I come to an idle again the guage shows low pressure and the lifters are starting to clatter. The dipstick shows full.
I have replaced the instrument voltage regulator, the oil pressure sending unit, and the oil pump. I have also degunked the pan, timing chain cover area, the area under the valve covers, run a flexible steel cable through the oil return passages, and used different brands of oil (10 W 30). There is no knocking are other indications that the engine is having problems. Anyone have any other ideas?
Al |
| | RE: Oil Pressure Problem -- James, 02/05/2002
I would try a straight grade oil. If the engine has some miles on it, I would try straight 40 wieght oil; if not try straight 30w. I had an engine builder tell me about that. I tried it and it cured my oil pressure problem. |
| | | RE: Oil Pressure Problem -- Travis Miller, 02/05/2002
While the pan was off for the oilpump change, you should have plastigaged the bearings to check their clearances. Sounds like a crank kit is in order, or a least some undersized bearings. |
| | | | RE: Oil Pressure Problem -- Al, 02/05/2002
Well the straight weight oil is worth a try. I was theorizing that the next step may be a complete teardown because everything is worn out....and that is a possibility since I don't have any long term history on this car. I am building another 390 in the basement so I didn't want to pull this engine until I get the new one done. The new engine is the obvious fix but I want to run this existing one as long as possible until I am able to fund the rest of the rebuild and a transmission overhaul for the new engine.
One more question comes to mind. When I started on this quest for oil pressure. I also changed the leaky rear main seal in this engine while the pan was down. The new seal was fine for a few months but is now starting to leak again. What is the trick for getting a good long term seal on these engines. I used a FelPro rubber seal instead of the old rope type that was in there. |
| | | | | Oil leak and pressure -- John M. Sutton, 02/05/2002
Al: Several thoughts on here, based on my experience. First, the oil seal, it may not be leaking, but oil may be coming from the rear main bearing and seal cap, where the cap joins the block along the sides or along the top. I have been successful using a SMALL amount of RTV sealant along those 3 mating edges. However, if you used a "sneaky pete" to remove and install the seal, the sharp edges along the seal groove may have shaved some of the seal off. Finally, did you put a thin coat of oil on the seal at installation? Once, I burned up an FE rear main seal by putting it in dry. |
| | | | | | RE: Oil leak and pressure -- Al, 02/05/2002
I did use a sneaky pete on the old seal and lubricated the new seal, but didn't use any RTV on the cap joint. Do you just put it around the outside of the joint or do you put some where the seal halfs come together too? This is something I definately want to get right on the rebuild I'm doing. I'll probably let the old one leak for now unless I have to go back in there for something else.
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| | | | | | | RE: Oil leak and pressure -- John M. Sutton, 02/05/2002
Al: Put a THIN layer layer of RTV on the 3 mating surface, and a tiny dab on each end of either the top half r the bottom half of the seal. That's what works for me.
See what Mr. F and others have to say. My opinons are more on what works cheapest way, rather than what should be done! |
| | | | | | | | RE: Oil leak and pressure -- Allan, 02/05/2002
OK, thanks John. I'll try that.
Al |
| | | | | Oil Pressure Problem -- John M. Sutton, 02/05/2002
Al: Here is another suggestion that I have used to extend FE service life, and, it keeps the engine in the car: Simply replace the rod bearings with the current size. Yes, I know, they should only be replaced on a turned crank. If the crank is still good but the bearings have worn down, using the same size certainly won't interfere with the crank, and can extend engine life for a while. This only applies, though, if the crank and rods are still good. If you have spun a bearing, it's not going to save a destroyed crank at all. It alos won't work for high speed or extremely heavy duty uses, either. I once had a 390 that developed a knock on #3. The bearing was down to steel, and the crank was deeply scored. I replaced the bearing and got another 20K miles out of it,long enough to get another engine ready. Definitely not orthodox, but FEs have a strong bottom end. |
| power upgrades for 390 -- jeff, 02/04/2002
what are good things to do with a 1969 390 in a mustang that is bone stock for power increases? thanks jeff |
| '63 427 to side oiler... -- Danny, 02/04/2002
Is it possible to convert the center oiler to side oiler? I heard the boss was there on the side, but it has to be drilled and fed.
Was I mis-informed? |
| | You were misinformed. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/05/2002
The casting is different, Danny. Not that it would make a difference since there is no significant improvement in engine durability even if it were possible. |
| | | RE: your NOT misinformed, just misle -- David Thayer, 02/05/2002
After Ford converted their 427 to the side oiler, all 427's side and center oilers shared the same casting. The 63 &64 center oiler were the old "pre side oiler casting". The later center oiler has all of the provisions for side oiling capabilties (the boss you mention) but it is NOT machined as such. I have not heard of anybody doing this mod as it would require some high $ toolng to accomplish. And, just as Jerry said, this does NOT improve performance. On the NASCAR tracks, the high banks forced the oil in the center oiler 427's oiling system to push to the right side of the engine satrving the left side and causing engine failure. The side oiling system oiled from the left and helped cure this problem. Unless you think NASCAR might start running these bohemouths again, there is no reason to even consider wasting the money to do this. The center oiler will work just fine and externnally looks the same as the side oiler with the screw in freeze plugs.
David |
| | | | RE: your NOT misinformed, just misle -- Gerry Proctor, 02/05/2002
Actually, David, the side oiler's primary reason to exist was to make oil pressure adjustments easier for the LeMans teams. There is something to be said for priority main oiling, but there is no significant difference in engine logevity between a properly prepared center oiler and a side oiler. Besides, Danny did write that the block was a '63. |
| | | |  | RE: You are right on all counts -- David Thayer, 02/05/2002
Yes I agree, however, the oil slinging to the right on the big tracks was also an issue. Yes, Danny said the block was a 63, but he also mentioned the "boss" cast on the block and questioned if this could be converted. There is so much confusion as highlighted by a recent 427 on Ebay. The fellow showed a pix of the motor in a bout and listed the engine as a 427 side oiler, as it had side oiler casting numbers. The engine (with a cracked block no less) quickly bid up to $2500. I asked the seller to show a picture of the engines left side above the oil pan. He did post a picture clearly showing the Center oiler/cast as a side oiler. I informed the seller that unfortunately he did NOT have a side oiler in his boat. This guy had a lot of integrity as he posted all of the info on his ad and then withdrew it. The confusion comes when the unknoiwing see those sidle oiler casting numbers and then think that is what they have. Imagine the hurt at thinking you have paid $2-3000 for a 427 side oiler to find out you have a center oiler with 352 heads, cast crank and a cracked block!!
David |
| | | | | Late 427 CO blocks can be drilled....... -- Royce Peterson, 02/05/2002
While I was taking the nickel tour at Dove's factory they showed me a pile (about 20) of 427 irrigation blocks that they were converting to side oilers. Dove has one of the original FOMOCO tool / jig fixtures for the drilling, they use the same tools when drilling one of their aluminum side oiler blocks. I wouldn't recommend doing because it does nothing for power output or longevity and you might ruin the block in the process.
Royce Peterson |
| | RE: '63 427 to side oiler... -- Ray, 02/05/2002
There's some very good points on the question of your oilling issure, but everything is based on what your going use the engine for. But there is a way to do it with not to much trouble. The way I did it was to drill a .155 hole throught the 3/8 crossbolts, then welding a steel 1/8" male pipe fitting to the head of bolt. Then drill the same size hole half way throught the main cap being very careful to get absolute center throught 3/8 bolt hole. Now you have to drill the same size hole throught the bearing side verticly down to meet the cross hole. Drill the bearing for the new fed hole and chamfer your bearing and almost there. If you have a oil cooler type filter setup, tee-off with 1/4 S.S. tubing for your new oil manifolds, make your connections use a high volume oil pump and 7 quart pan and go racing. Ray Tirri P.S. you leave old oil system as is or impove on that as well. This engine was running to 8000 rpm up-intill I took it apart three
years ago, and the bearing were cheery. Originally built in 1972 |
| | RE: '63 427 to side oiler... 1/2 cross bolts sorry -- Ray, 02/05/2002
I don't know why I said 3/8 cross bolts, it's 1/2 cross bolts. I guess I had to many beers, but whole system works very well for a back yard deal. Ray |
| | RE: Hey Royce, is this one of yours! -- Tim B, 02/04/2002
I think that Cougar has been restored since that photo was taken.
Jim Pinkerton's original 1968 GT-E 428CJ 4 speed is being featured on My Classic Car this week on Speedvision.
Tim B |
| | RE: Hey Royce, is this one of yours! -- Royce Peterson, 02/05/2002
Alan,
That car belongs to my good friend Morris Fiorvanti of Montral, PQ Canada. He paid $100.00 Canadian for it including the original 427 Side Oiler to the original owner. It sat next to the original owner's house for 20 plus years. It was parked when gas prices went up in the early 1970's. Needless to say Morris had a lot of body work to do but the engine only needed new gaskets and a set of rings plus a valve job.
Here's a picture of one of my GTE's:
http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=4106&Reply=4081
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: Hey Royce, is this one of yours! -- Bill Howell, 02/05/2002
What day and time does the show with Jim's GT-E come on? |
| | | | RE: Hey Royce, is this one of yours! -- Royce Peterson, 02/05/2002
It was on Speed Vision Monday night and will be on again tomorrow night (Wednesday). Check your local listings for My Classic Car with Dennis Gage.
Royce Peterson |
| Looking for Mustang/Fairlane FE Heads/Manifolds. -- Scott Perry, 02/04/2002
I'm looking for a set of mustang or failane FE heads as well as exhaust manifolds. Year is not important.
I have a set of early 61'-62' Tbird heads with very few miles on total rebuild as well as Hooker FE headers that I'd be willing to sell/trade as well. Thanks.
|
| | RE: Looking for Mustang/Fairlane FE Heads/Manifolds. -- Ed Foral, 02/04/2002
Scott I may be able to help you. Please E-Mail me with your head casting numbers and the header part number.
Thanks
Ed |
| | RE: Looking for Mustang/Fairlane FE Heads/Manifolds. -- Orin, 02/06/2002
Go to ebay . . .click on ebay morotrs . . .in the search box in upper right type "ford 390 exhaust" . . .hit the button . .
. . .then change the "390" to "428" or whatever you need and hit it again.
Same deal for heads, change "exhaust" to "heads" enter the cid.
good luck. |
| 390 mustang engine numbers -- Connelly, 02/03/2002
OK here goes. Can anyone tell me the casting numbers for the block, heads, and carb on a early 67 mustang. Also do ALL 390 mustangs use the holley or did some of them the autolite 4100 on them |
| | RE: 390 mustang engine numbers -- hawkrod, 02/04/2002
well i don't want to get into all of the casting numbers too deep but i can say that an august car i stripped had a C7AE-A block and C7AE-A heads but there may be other numbers especially on the block. the carbs were all holleys whether it was a gt390 or not. the numbers were C7OE-9510-A/B/C/D the A was stick non thermactor, the B was automaic non thermactor, the C was stick with thermactor, and the D was automatic with thermactor. hope this helps, hawkrod |
| 427 8v -- Gabe, 02/03/2002
How can i tell what year my 427 block is where in the block stamped ? gabe |
| | RE: 427 8v -- Royce Peterson, 02/04/2002
The date stamp (actually a casting) is adjacent to where the oil filter adapter bolts on. It will be coded like "6C11" for example which means
6=Year cast i.e. 1966
C=Month cast i.e. March
11= day of month
You will have to be under the car looking up to see this and it is typically greasy and poorly cast, 6's and 8's are hard to tell apart for example.
Royce Peterson |
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