Thanks Kevin. I did bid on it a couple of times but it won't over what I was willing to pay. I think it's a genuine 1960 intake not a low riser 427 as the seller states.

I believe the 1960 352 HP intake has a flat carb base stock. I've been told that is the way they were for that one year only. The one that I have is supposedly a "correct" '60 HP intake and it has the flat base along with the firing order cast on the back left corner. Its problem is that it was milled to match milled heads I suppose. I've had it for three years and never noticed until I went to install it. Had it totally cleaned, all holes heliarched that needed it, etc. I'm sure many owners and many experiences during its 42 years.

I was told that the engines sat more level in the 1960 cars. I can't see this. A friend and I have compared my old '61 Starliner to a current '60 Starliner I have and we really can't see this. Here's our theory.....a very humble one and one looking for affirmation or refutation: We believe that the angle carb base introduced with '61 as I've seen on '61 and later HP aluminum single 4V intakes and multi carb intakes for that matter, was due to torque/Power of the HP cars that would lift the front under acceleration thus causing fuel starvation on the front primaries to those cylinders. Something that may have been discovered with the HP352. Does this make sense or is it plausible?

I did end up buy a '61 HP intake off of ebay, one cast on Nov. 30, '60. It has the angle base. Won't look exactly correct but I don't care that much. I do plan to install my tri power next year. Just wanted it to look stock for a year or two.

Eventually I want to restore the original 352HP, which I have, with all the correct equipment. So I'm still looking for a deal on a '60 flat carb base HP intake.

That should be good one. Have it thoroughly cleaned and magnafluxed. Being that it's standard bore 4.05 the cylinder walls should be great.

Mark,
If you do the Unilite will fry. Look for a bent distributor shaft or try your components on a friend's car one at a time to determine which is causing the problem. I bet it's the Unilite distributor.

With the coil and everything else connected and while cranking the engine you should see 9-10 volts at the coil or whatever battery voltage drops to while cranking. With the engine running it will be 9V at the coil. By-passing the resistor during cranking only maintains voltage to the coil to compensate for the starter's drain.

If you have ever cranked the engine with the distributor cap removed or the coil wire pulled out the Mallory Unilite may have been damaged. They are extremely fragile, the Pertronics conversion is much more reliable.

Good Luck,
Royce Peterson

check Summit racing equip they have complete kits with everything you need.

If the engine is removed from the car and you are having this problem, it means someone has added an aftermarket windage tray, and it's sandwiched between the block and pan.

This is a nice bonus.

Peel the windage tray away from the pan or block and it'll come apart.

If the engine remains in the car, I'm not sure how you're gonna get the pan out. Never tried it that way. Seems like the oil pump pickup would make the job a tough one.

Shoe.

On my 69 I removed the motor mount bolts and raised the motor with a engine hoist.I had plenty of room to take the pan off.Watch your fan to shroud clearance.Mark

Is it possible to to slide the pan forward while rotating the crank BY HAND to clear the crank. You will have to drop the oil pump. Tie a string between your wrist and your wrench, makes it easier to find it in the pan. I know the windage tray don't make any easier.
Just throwing you a possibility. <<Good Luck>>

It really depends on the details, but I suspect $8800.00 is a good price for a nice rust-free Q-code in disassembled condition. I'm just guessing.

Shoe.

I looked at a 4-sp R-code here in Minnesota that needed new rear quarters and was missing: smog, ram air stuff, oil cooler, etc. It was running and driveable though. It was advertised in the paper. It sold for $12K. My point, if it's a quiet sale, you may be able to pick it up for a fair price. If it gets out, a bidding war will no doubt ensue.

it looks like a 1966-67 Fomoco 427 Medium riser intake. try measuring the port size.

Interesting manifold, and so clean! Don’t know what it is but here’s my take. I’m sure they’re probably out there but I have never seen an oil filler tube on a C6 or C7 PI manifold. The pad was there but it was left unmachined. Also on the manifold in the pic, the breather hole in the back is unmachined while all the PI’s and MR’s I’ve seen were. Another thing, there is only one vacuum fitting on the back of this manifold like a MR while the PI’s had the two diagonal ones across the manifold plus the one on the rear of the carb. flange. Noticed it does have the fomoco block script on the right side (hard to see) and the right carb. flange for either a PI or a MR. All in all, it’s closer to a MR (non-sidewinder) than a PI but that’s JMO and going by memory, pics are at home.

John and I are sitting here looking that intake over and we've noticed on little thing - no tower for the linkage bellcrank which was on all PI 428 intakes. Barry has made other interesting notes about this intake.

We don't remember that the Sidewinder was standard on a single 4-V medium riser 427 either.

I haven't got a medium riser intake here to reference, wish I did, but we're going to cast our votes for Chuck's intake as a medium riser.

What about it being a early medium riser when first introduced in mid '65?

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't mean to start a raging debate, but I'm learning from all the posts. I've got three more pics of this intake at the following link. Thanks again.
http://www.cartogra.com/home/ViewMyAlbum.asp?coll_id=1298407

okay guys now i think i am going nuts. wasn't there a blurb in one of the posts about an intake on e-bay that was modified for a flat flat flange car like a 60 or a T-bird? i went to e-bay and found a dual quad but i thought the note was about a single four. is the auction over or did i just misread the note or.... ? i have a 62 T-bird and am running an F-427 with a marine spacer to level my carb but i wouldn't mind a stock type intake. thanks, hawkrod

After eleven years, it's definitely worth disassembling the motor and reassembling it, just to be sure you know what you have.

You can be sure that some items can use a refreshening under the aircleaner (gaskets, for example), and you may find something nearly ready to crap out on you when it does get opened up. A nylon-toothed timing chain is a fairly classic "old age" failure, and they give plenty of visual warning - if you can view them. Many other things can surprise.

Your carb may be leaning out (clogged filter, low fuel pressure, bowl sediment, whatever) to give you the bog. A clogged exhaust can also do this, and it's not unlikely. While I sorta doubt any rodents found your tailpipe to be hospitable, it's likely your aluminized muffler or exhaust pipe shed a layer of skin, causing a sleeve of rust to restrict the exhaust flow. This sorta makes it feel like you're smashing into a pillow, as the power just plain disappears until the flow can catch up with the fumes.

I'll bet if you retrace your steps, you'll find a rusty looking snake laying along the side of the road somewhere.

JMO,
Shoe.

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Greg,
If the car sat that long I would bet there is some gummy old fuel residue causing a problem, could be blocking one of the check valves in the fuel pump if it is the original type. AMK sells rebuild kits for the original Carter "X" fuel pumps, Kanter is another good source for this item. You can rebuild the pump with no special tools other than a punch, hammer and screwdriver. You will need carb cleaner to get rid of the goo that collects in the pump when a car sits that long.

Another possibility is a dried out carburetor metering block gasket. They shrink and can cover the air bleed passages if the gasket recedes enough.

The gas tank can be full of rust also, this is best remedied by tossing the old tank and installing a new one, they only cost $150.00 with sending unit from Dallas Mustang (1-800-Mustang).

Royce Peterson

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