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| What model flexfan -- Mike K, 02/23/2002
I've been reading about fans on the site and I'm trying to figure out what fan will provide the max amount of cooling for my 427. It currently has a small fan on it and I'm looking to get better air flow. Can anyone recommend the kind of flex a lite (or other model you recommend) I need to by - model #? Also, for a 427 how much spacing does the fan usually require such as with a flex a lite. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Mike |
| Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- Ian Dobson, 02/23/2002
I've been trying to find a set of adjustable rocker arms that I can use with stock pushrods, but I'm not having much luck, crane makes a set but I have to order special pushrods from them, other that that they all seem to be for solid cams or non adjustable.
anyone know who makes them? or what other options do I have if I want to use the edelbrock performer RPM cam? |
| | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- peter, 02/23/2002
have you thought about the factory adjustables from the 427 FE? |
| | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- Royce Peterson, 02/23/2002
Ian, The factory FE's always had adjustables with mechanical cams and hydraulic cams got the non - adjustable rockers. You have to change both rockers and pushrods to the mechanical style even though you are running a hydraulic cam.
I recommend you call Summit at 1-800-230-3030 and order a set of Comp Cams FE pushrods and Isky cast steel rockers. They will work fine with the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam. Total price will be about $250.00.
Any auto parts store sells the Sealed Power replacement rockers and pushrods for FE. Be sure to specify mechanical cam so you get adjustable rockers. You might save $25.00 by going that direction but the parts are not as good.
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- Ian Dobson, 02/23/2002
Thanks.. I found the pushrods, but I can't find the rocker arms, I went to the isky web site and only found one set for like $570.00 :( any other places I might check? I'm going to call summit on Monday, just in case they are not listed in their online catalog. |
| | | | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- Royce Peterson, 02/23/2002
You can call Summit 24 hours / 7 days a week. The Isky Iron FE rockers are $280.00 direct from Isky. They are cheaper from Summit, should be around $225.00.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- Ian Dobson, 02/23/2002
Hehe, thanks. But I live in BC, Canada, and I have to call Canada customs on Monday to find out exactly how much duty, if any is charged on automotive parts made in the USA.
I know I have to pay 14.5% tax (PST/GST) but I don't know if there is duty or not, thats a big chunk of change when I'm ordering $2500.00 US worth of goods (FE Performer RPM Heads, Intake and Cam)
you know they want $600.00 CDN (about $365.00 US) just for the Cam and lifters in this country before taxes, and summit only wants $136.95 sheesh :(
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| | | | | | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- peter(pop428), 02/24/2002
And you can add customs paper work charges as well If you are the same as Australia.....Big rip off! |
| | RE: Adjustable Hydraulic rocker arms?? -- charlie, 02/26/2002
I too have had many a head ache looking for good, affordable fe parts, try dsc motor sports, see link http://www.dscmotorsport.com/about.htm Also crane cams makes an adjustable rocker set for $179 #270-34772-16 you -mst use crane push rod 270-34642-16 or 270-34645-16 mech or hyd depending on lifter or fords cup ball pushrods.
DSC sells new adj sets for about $200, how much lift and spring press. will change what set up you need. Also try flatlander racing, they carry some good priced items |
| Dipstick -- Terry Tobolt, 02/23/2002
I am in dire need of dipstick and tube for 427.I have called all the places that I know of including Fomco but I can't find one.does anyone know where I can get one. Some one told me that southern has crome ones but who or what is southern, |
| | RE: Dipstick -- John, 02/23/2002
Try ERA in Conn. They are a Cobra Kit Car manufacturer, but they have the tubes and dipsticks. Their e-mail address is ERACars@aol.com
If they don't want to sell to you, they will probably at least give you info on where they get them. The dipstick I bought from them had a chromed handle with a Ford P/N on a sticker attached to it, and appeared to be brand new. |
| | RE: Dipstick -- Leo, 03/02/2002
Had the same problem last summer and I finally just had Lokar custom make one for me. It's only $10-15 more than their usual dipstick assy. price, and looks trick a hell. I have the pics if you doubt what I'm saying. Option B is to take a small block chevy one (chrome) and modify the dipstick length; the tube has the same OD but it's a lot shorter than a stock one and doesn't have a mounting braket. Good luck. |
| worth of 68 galaxie xl w/ 7 liter sports package? -- john, 02/22/2002
I'm just curious as to what this car may be worth. my knowledge of it is limited. I'm considering buying it, and i want to know how much you guys think it may be worth. I think it's a pretty rare car. As far as condition: complete, solid, some rust, but repairable. 7-liter sports package with a c6. I believe original paint....... Black with white interior. Remember, it's all complete and runs and drives fine. Sorry, i don't have the vin, but i will get it b4 buying it. I truly believe this is an original car. Thanks for everyone's opinions. |
| | RE: Well? -- R Shannon, 02/23/2002
Well, that's not much to go on. I seen a few of them, so I don't think it's that rare (probably not too many left though). Ok, I would say somewhere starting at $1500 and topping out around $3000. But, you have to deside how much it's worth to your. Fully restored car would probably bring 6K to 7.5K. Some might want higher price, but their are alot of good quality cars from that error in this price range. The bottom line is it's only worth how much someone will give and if that 7 liter means something I'd verify that it is a 428. JMO, maybe this will drum up some different opinions. |
| | | galaxie -- john, 02/24/2002
Really, you've seen a few of them? I've never seen one before with the sports package. I'm guessing only about 1500 or so were made. I've seen many 68 galaxie xl's, but never one with the 428 gt. Even looking on the internet, i ahve yet to find one for sale to compare. I've just seen regular xl's. |
| | | | RE: galaxie -- R Shannon, 02/25/2002
I had a 68 Galaxie 2dr 428PI black with red interior I brought at a State auction for $700 bucks in 72. I thought it was rare due to the hardtop cop car. Only automatic I had that would lay some rubber down when shifting into second and had a wicked idle. The city I lived in had at least two with the sports package a red one and a black one. |
| | | | | RE: galaxie -- Mac, 02/25/2002
i seen a baby blue one in oregon sat for 20 years it was perfect still guy wanyed 3k and i got hte money flew up there and he sold it out form underme i was quite mad |
| | | | | | RE: galaxie -- John, 02/25/2002
well, i've done some more searching, and from what i've found, there is no such thing as a 68 galaxie with the 7 liter sports package. Supposedly they stopped making them in 67. The reason i thought this was a 7 liter sports package car is because it said 428 G.T. . Can anyone tell me if a 428 G.T. car is worth anything? And, am i correct in saying there is no such thing as a 68 7-liter sports package? |
| | | | | | | RE: galaxie XL 428 -- R, 02/25/2002
Are you calling a 428 option a sports package? |
| | | | | | | | RE: galaxie XL 428 -- John, 02/25/2002
no, the car is a 428 G.T.. The G.T. led me to believe that it had the 7 liter sports package, but there is no such thing in 68. I found out that this car is a fully optioned xl. Thanks to everyone for their help. But, one last question, is a fully optioned xl a rare car? |
| | | | | | | | | RE: galaxie XL 428 how many? -- R Shannon, 02/26/2002
Yes, But how many?Probably less than one out of 500 galaxie's. Not many left that's for sure. That's the ones I thought you were talking about. |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: galaxie XL 428 how many? -- John, 02/26/2002
i also posted this question on fordfe.com, and a guy there claims that the G.T. was not an option for the galaxie in 68. He says that is was only a fairlane option. He thinks that the emblems were added to the galaxie. Can anyone verify that ford didn't have a G.T. package for the galaxie in 68? Or, does anyone know a good website that i can research myself. I went to the galaxie club of america website, and couldn't find too much info. |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: galaxie XL 428 how many? -- hawkrod, 02/26/2002
the ford parts books clearly show a GT emblem set for a 68 or 69 galaxie body style 63C or 76B. the part numbers listed are for 67 mustang emblems but the application is galaxie. it also has a stripe kit listed for 68 and 69 for the same body styles. i know this is not saying yes or no, but ford listed it in the parts books! |
| | | | | | | | | | | | thanks for clearing that up hawkrod. -- John, 02/26/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: galaxie XL 428 how many? -- Terry McMahon, 12/29/2002
Well if that guy says there were no GT Galaxies in 68, then i have in my garage a pretty good fake. Car is a 68 Galaxie 428 XL, 4 speed Fastback , with a bench seat, All original |
| 390 Autolite carb cfm? -- Bill, 02/21/2002
Hi guys, Ive got an autolite 4100 4bbl electric choke carb on a stock Z code 390 (64 Galaxie). I cant find any info on the cfm rating. Its tag is marked C3AF BV. I assume its a 600, but I read where they used Holley 446cfm 4bbls on this engine (Super 60s Fords). If I switch, whats the word on a Road demon 625cfm? Thanks, Bill |
| On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Rob, 02/21/2002
Hello all,
I am getting pretty close in my buildup of my 1962 Galaxie 2 door hardtop where I think I need to make some exhaust decisions. (Working on a custom tranny x member, etc) I was wondering what you guys think would be the best system to make power. The Specs are as follows. 390 FE (.30 over) with Edelbrock performer intake/cam/lifters and timing set. This is primarily a stock rebuild, I think my compression ratio is a bit low less than 9.0 to 1 or so, not quite sure of this, C-6 tranny (Will be adding a Shift kit), 3.00 (Hoping to go for steeper gears) one legger (and posi once the budget allows). The intended use is primarily Street and some moderate stoplight action, but I am looking for a nasty sounding setup. I love the sound of 2 chamber (40 series) Flowmasters on a big block, so my main questions are these:
1)What pipe diameter should I use on a dual setup with 40 series flowmasters?
2)I am eyeing a set of Ford Powertrain headers, anyone have any experience with these, What is the collector diameter?
3)Where should I put the crossover? How will it affect the sound?
4)Will keeping the tailpipes short make the exhaust sound nastier, or does it not matter since the mufflers will be near the rear of the car? Does anyone have a suggestion as to where the best place to put the mufflers is? I was going to put them in the stock location, but that seems like a whole lot of pipe and bends!
Thanks in advance for the info.
Rob.
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| | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Jesse, 02/22/2002
I know that the closer you get to the engine the louder you get , I would use 2.5 inch pipes |
| | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Brian, 02/22/2002
I have the FPA (Ford Powertrain Application) headers on my 390 in my 67 Cougar and I'm quite pleased with them. The ceramic coating (extra$$) is excellent and the fit is perfect (very important in my tight engine bay). I have 2.5" pipe (full exhaust) with a Dr. Gas x-pipe (crossover) and 40 series Flowmasters and the sound is exactly what I hoped for. The x-pipe adds a slightly different tone to the exhaust. The 40 series Flowmasters usually sound a little "harsh" for my taste with a standard exhaust set-up but mine is a little mellower with a raspy tone to it at idle and when you stomp on the gas it roars nicely. I am, of course, biased but I would recommend a similiar set-up without hesitation. I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM package which is a little more aggresive than your set-up so my sound is different than yours would be. FPA supplies a 2.5" reducer (I think the collector is 3" but I don't recall off hand.......it's late) with their headers and I would recommend calling them with your specific application before ordering.......they are very helpful and answer all questions thoroughly (in my experience). I know the x-pipe is supposed to be placed as close to the headers as practical and I believe that goes for any balance tube (for better scavaging effect) |
| | | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Rob, 02/22/2002
I just confirmed with Stan @ ford powertrain, and the collectors are 3". The Primaries are 2" which sounds a little big to me, but he assures me they should be fine because it is a tri-y setup.
Yes, I guess the crossover (h or x pipe) should be as close to the collectors as possible.
Brian, How long are your tailpipes? are your mufflers located under the floorpan, under the trunk floor?
Rob. |
| | | | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Travis Miller, 02/22/2002
While I did not use Flowmasters on my formerly owned '61 with a 390, I did use a form of turbo mufflers (2.5 inlet and outlet) I found at a swap meet and they sounded good. Since they were not round they would not fit in the stock location at the rear of the car. I had the muffler shop build a system from the shorty cast iron hi-perf factory headers going into dumps placing the outlets 36 inches from where the shortest pipe on the header bolted to the head. This allowed open exhaust at the strip. The exhaust with crossover then continued on to the mufflers mounted under the rear seat area. After that, the tailpipes were routed where the original mufflers sat and had the ends bent down just like the factory outlets. This system work great and from the rear of the car, looked factory.
I have always felt that Ford would have been much better to have put the mufflers under the rear seat on the 1960-64 Galaxies. |
| | | | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Brian, 02/22/2002
My mufflers are under the rear seat area just before the axle. As far as the specific length of the tailpipes............I don't know, they exit in the stock location under the rear valance (I'd guess around 6' of pipe ...hard to say with the bends and whatnot). My car is buried in the garage and isn't easy for me to crawl under at the moment (I, unfortunately, live where there is a winter) or I could be more specific, sorry. If you are worried about the primaries being too large for low end power, I believe the Hooker headers use a 2 1/8th primary. Breathing is good and headers are always a good choice (IMO). You'll still get enough backpressure with the headers and full exhaust for low-end torque. Brian |
| | | | | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Rob, 02/22/2002
I will have to take a look and see how much clearance I am going to have, I was thinking of dropped spindles. I guess that I have to mock the system up and just see how it looks, we have winter here too (Massachusetts) but it seems to have passed us over this year, No snow whatsoever!
Thanks for the advice,
Rob. |
| | | | | | RE: On to the exhaust! Best configurations? -- Brian, 02/22/2002
In my application ground clearance is excellent. My oil pan is lower than the exhaust. The FPA's tuck up nicely.....that is one reason that I got them. I love the look of headers hanging under a car BUT I plan on road racing mine eventually and wanted everything out of the way as much as possible. Good Luck, Brian |
| Holley secondary fuel bowl drains into venturi's -- Steve Boulay, 02/21/2002
The primary carb on my '67 Shelby 428 (2 X 4 bbl.) keeps leaking fuel into the carb,(secondary side) and the fuel migrates along the throttle shaft and drips onto the manifold. I've tried resetting fuel level, checking the main body and metering plate for flatness, added phenolic spacers under the carbs(in case it's thermal related). The carbs are original Holley 4160's and have been rebuilt recently. The latest attempt indicated that the problem probably wasn't temp. related. I'd appreciate any ideas on what to do next.(besides sending the carbs out to a rebuild specialist). Thanx in advance for any insights, Steve Boulay |
| | RE: Holley secondary fuel bowl drains into venturi's -- Tom, 02/21/2002
have you called holley? |
| | | RE: Holley secondary fuel bowl drains into venturi's -- Steve Boulay, 02/21/2002
Yes, I've spoken to them several times.... no luck so far. SGB |
| | | | RE: thoughts & ideas -- Mike McQuesten, 02/21/2002
I'm very hesitant to get into any discussion about carburetor problems especially with regard to Holleys. I've had so many problems with them over the years. Don't want to go there but here's what I found a couple of years ago with a Holley 2V - the middle one on my tri power. It was doing what your's is doing now but of course there's only a primary side. These Holleys were completely rubuilt/refurbished to just like new condition by a man named Joe Bunetic in Ohio. He does beautiful work. I'd run this set up for few months without any problems. But one day after firing the "390" up I smelled fuel. I popped the hood to have a look and "Oh S#5@" fuel leaking all over my spotless intake manifold. This same thing has happened numerous times to me with other Holleys especially after the vehicle has sat for awhile. I'd learned to initially blame the most common culprit(s).....those cheap rebuild needle & seats. So with the tri power, I did check the float level first.....whoa.....the bowl was totally filled! Yuk, more mess. Out comes the N & S. They look good. I lube 'em up. Back in and that seems to take care of it until the next short idle(car sitting) period. Again, gas spewing out. Must be the fuel pressure is too high due to that Mallory electric fuel pump. Fuel Pump maintenance. It was fine. Fuel Pressure was right at 6.5-7 lbs. New needle & seat. Good until next time again. Hmmm. What about the float?
That's what it was for me. It was an original float that looked excellent. But it was full of gas. Too much weight for the needle valve to keep afloat. Apparently, once under power and after a drain down of that bowl, the needle could keep the float up but once the car was shut down for a short time.....big mess.
Long story but that's how carb stories so often are. That's what took care of it for me....a "brand new" used float from a spare Holley 2 barrel did the trick. |
| | | | | RE: thoughts & ideas -- Steve Boulay, 02/22/2002
Thanx, Mike,.... 1 question about the float. Was the problem with a brass float or a "phenolic/plastic" float, and are both types prone to the problem?(I guess that's 2 questions)...... any insight? regards, SGB |
| | | | | | RE: thoughts & ideas -- Travis Miller, 02/22/2002
I know it is not proper to use the "C" word here, but anytime a Quadra-Jet carb is rebuilt, the phenolic/plastic float should/must be replaced. That was what caused them to get such a bad reputation once they needed rebuilding. I always replace any float that is not brass when I rebuild a carb. If you have a question about your brass float leaking, submerge it in a cup of gas and look for bubbles. |
| | | | | RE: thoughts & ideas -- Steve Boulay, 02/22/2002
Mike, I understand the float either saturating(plastic) or filling with gas (brass), either case sinking in the bowl and letting the needle off the seat. I'm confused about the comment that a "filled" float has too much weight for the needle to keep afloat........ Did I mis something? I didn't think the needle actually supported the float,no? Anyway, I'll try new floats and needle and seat assy's..... sure hope it helps. SGB |
| | | | | | RE: brass float -- Mike McQuesten, 02/22/2002
The "sinking" float was an original brass float. It would fill and thus sink allowing the fuel to fill the bowl due to not closing the needle valve. And you're correct in that the needle valve doesn't support the float. I wasn't clear on that. What I mean't( I think?) was that I blamed the needle valve initially. My first thought was that the needle valve was sticking, thus allowing excess fuel to flow . Does that make more sense? I've re-read this paragraph twice and I'm not sure I make sense to me.
Carbs always challenge me! And they're supposed to be so simple! The strange thing about the original float was that I could not find the hole. But I still have it setting in a little dish on the back of my work bench. I'm waiting for it to "leak" the old gas. Still hasn't. Every once in awhile I give it a little shake just to make sure the old Trick racing fuel hasn't escaped. As I said, the carb worked well for a few months. Then I started having the overfilled bowl probs. It apparently has a very small hole that allowed the float to fill slowly until it couldn't stay afloat.
Good luck on curing your problems. I think we'd all be interested in hearing what you find out. A possible hint to future carb problems. It's my opinion based on experience with old Holleys that you will have problems....it's just a matter of time. |
| Headers? -- Brett, 02/21/2002
Can anyone recommend headers (and where to buy 'em) for '67 Galaxie 390 c.i.d.? I'm looking for an application that would go well with the Edelbrock Performer Plus package. I don't want to jeopardize low end or overall driveability.
Thanks a bunch...
P.S. Hooker makes a header (Summit part # HOK-6130). Anyone know anything about these? |
| camshaft -- jesse, 02/21/2002
could this engine set up : a 390 bored .060 over with a crane cams power max cam Adv. Duration: 272º/284º Gross Lift: .533''/.563'' RPM Range: 1500-5800, heads ported polished and shaved,msd ignition ,edelbrock 750cfm carb,performer intake man,headers, and glass packs
be used is a truck with a stock stall converter |
| | RE: camshaft -- Gerry Proctor, 02/21/2002
Sure. One of the real benefits of the Crane Powermax cams is that they use a wide lobe separation angle (114-degrees) which gives you a fairly smooth idle with sufficient idle vacuum. This allows you to achieve a near-stock idle speed which makes carburetor adjustment fairly easy and makes it possible to use the stock converter. There's no question that a converter with 500 more stall rpm would be beneficial but it's not crucial. I'm using a Crane 278 with a stock converter and it works just fine. |
| Gear Lube for '67 GT 390 -- Dan Dunn, 02/20/2002
This post is not just applicable to FE's, but I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to cross-reference a Ford part number for steering gear lube to another manufacturer's part number (Valvoline, Penzoil, etc.) The part number is C3AZ-19578-A. |
| | RE:Please help us.... -- Mike McQuesten, 02/21/2002
Before Dan's post/request is move to the 2nd page, please help us!
I need the same steering gear lubricant for my '60 full size Ford. That may amaze some of the Mustang fans....a Ford needing the same lube as a Mustang? I thought that 'stangs got everything special just for them.
Nope, the steer-gear lube # got superseded to the C3AZ-19578-A that Dan's '67 GT-390 needs...wait, Dan could be talking about a '67 GT-390 Fairlane!?
Just kidding......I love Mustangs too. And I like Falcons, Comets & Cougars, oh my. But I need to find the correct steering gear lube that equals C3AZ-19578-A. |
| | | RE:thanks Mr. F, I'm on my way now... -- Mike McQuesten, 02/21/2002
'n/m' |
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