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 boreing a 390 -- Terry, 05/16/2003
A friend of mine has just striped down his 390 out of a 67 GT Mustang, only to find that the previous owner had installed a set of standard 428 pistons.
Question:Is this block safe to sleave or has it seen its last days in an engine bay?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17253&Reply=17253><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>cam lift too high or not ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>carlos, <i>05/16/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote> Hey guys, i have a quick question. I am planning on installing a Comp Cams Extreme Energy cam with these specs: adv. dur. 274/286, dur. @ 50 i/e 230/236, valve lift i/e 562/565, with a lope seperation of 110. It is going into a 390 ford motor bored 40 over and my question is if the lift (562/565) is too high for my 390, will the valves hit the top of the pistons?? Also whst do you guys think of the cam i selected ?, the rpm range is 1800-6000. Thanks in advance for your help.  </blockquote> cam lift too high or not ? -- carlos, 05/16/2003
Hey guys, i have a quick question. I am planning on installing a Comp Cams Extreme Energy cam with these specs: adv. dur. 274/286, dur. @ 50 i/e 230/236, valve lift i/e 562/565, with a lope seperation of 110. It is going into a 390 ford motor bored 40 over and my question is if the lift (562/565) is too high for my 390, will the valves hit the top of the pistons?? Also whst do you guys think of the cam i selected ?, the rpm range is 1800-6000. Thanks in advance for your help.
 RE: cam lift too high or not ? -- Ross, 05/16/2003
Its always best to check. I like to pull a head and clay pistons without a head gasket.

However, .565 with 230-ish duration should be fine (insert disclaimer "at your own risk" here) It wont be fine for the stock prings though, they bind at about .500. I'd check it if it were me, but I also wouldnt expect there to be problems

We put that cam in a SBC not long ago, you'll love it. Good vacuum and lots of mid range. I am considering swapping out my 280H for that or the next one up
 390GT Mustang question -- Mike, 05/15/2003
Hi all,
I've owned 3 '67/68 390GT Mustangs. I'm on my 3rd now. This '67 Gt 4spd 390 Fastback just doesn't seem as peppy as the others. Maybe it is b/c it is totally stock but I think there is more of a carb. issue.
The orig. 4150 Holley was rebuilt about 2 months ago just b4 I got the car from Pony Carbs.
The car makes good power about 25mph and when the secondaries kick in. It seems to be lacking punch off idle and down low. If I mash the gas from about 5mph the car just seems to wind out slowly until the secondaries open. I can even seem to break the tires look in 1st gear from a stop!
I think the car has a posi 3.00 rear in it but that should make the difference.
My mechanic recently did some work on it and he said the plugs were 2 heat ranges too low and fouled b/c the car was running too rich. He said he also turned the idle mixture screws all the way in get it running best and when he did that the car didn't stall.
Right now the timing is set about 14BTC at idle and the vacuum port at idle off the carb, pass. side tip of the metering block is pulling about 6lbs of vac.

Any thoughts would be great,
I wish I had another similar carb. to slap on to compare.
The PO said the motor has 5K on it and the compression is 170 across the board.

Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17246&Reply=17246><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>77 F250 4x4 360 or 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Flowers, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>it has a 48 stamped above the 352 cast.  What dose the 48 mean?<br> </blockquote> 77 F250 4x4 360 or 390 -- Flowers, 05/15/2003
it has a 48 stamped above the 352 cast. What dose the 48 mean?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17250&Reply=17246><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Mold number.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>05/16/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>It's a mold identification number used for quality control in the foundry.<br><br>If that's an original motor, that must be a 400-800 series heavy truck, not a pickem up truck.<br><br>The last FE went into the 1976 series 100-300 light trucks.  I seem to recall that all 4X4s got the 360, but it should be considered a rumor if  you hear it from me.  You can tell by turning the crank near TDC, removing the bellhousing inspection cover, and peering at the bottom of the flywheel flange just a couple milliimeters to the rear of the oilpan.<br><br>If the flange has no features on it, it's a steel crank from a 361FT/391FT, if it's only got a 3/8" (or so) square notch cut into it, it's likely a 390 cast crank, and if it's got both a square notch and also a large semicircle cut out of the flange next to the notch, then it's most likely a 360 cast crank.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Mold number. -- Dave Shoe, 05/16/2003
It's a mold identification number used for quality control in the foundry.

If that's an original motor, that must be a 400-800 series heavy truck, not a pickem up truck.

The last FE went into the 1976 series 100-300 light trucks. I seem to recall that all 4X4s got the 360, but it should be considered a rumor if you hear it from me. You can tell by turning the crank near TDC, removing the bellhousing inspection cover, and peering at the bottom of the flywheel flange just a couple milliimeters to the rear of the oilpan.

If the flange has no features on it, it's a steel crank from a 361FT/391FT, if it's only got a 3/8" (or so) square notch cut into it, it's likely a 390 cast crank, and if it's got both a square notch and also a large semicircle cut out of the flange next to the notch, then it's most likely a 360 cast crank.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17252&Reply=17246><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Got to be 360</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ross, <i>05/16/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Like Shoe said, I have never seen anything but a 360 that late and even more importantly rarely, if ever saw a 390 stock in a 4x4<br><br>Many guys say they are 390's and when you tear them down they are 360's.  The confusion lies in the fact that the valve cover often says 360/390 instead of what it really is.<br><br>Nothing wrong with a 360, with a set of headers and small 4 barrel they run real well.  Basically a bored out 352 and they always ran decent </blockquote> Got to be 360 -- Ross, 05/16/2003
Like Shoe said, I have never seen anything but a 360 that late and even more importantly rarely, if ever saw a 390 stock in a 4x4

Many guys say they are 390's and when you tear them down they are 360's. The confusion lies in the fact that the valve cover often says 360/390 instead of what it really is.

Nothing wrong with a 360, with a set of headers and small 4 barrel they run real well. Basically a bored out 352 and they always ran decent
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17257&Reply=17246><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Doesn't Got to be 360....</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>hawkrod, <i>05/16/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>since a 77 never came with an FE it was either swapped in or the truck is misregistered. take your serial number and go over to the ford truck enthusiast website. they will decode what the truck came with from teh serial number and tell you exactly when it was built (truck serial numbers give the month of production). i too have a 77 and they only came from the factory with a 6 cylinder a 351M or a 400. unfortunately those were the only choices that year. of course most of use put a 460 in since it is such an easy swap! LOL hawkrod </blockquote> Doesn't Got to be 360.... -- hawkrod, 05/16/2003
since a 77 never came with an FE it was either swapped in or the truck is misregistered. take your serial number and go over to the ford truck enthusiast website. they will decode what the truck came with from teh serial number and tell you exactly when it was built (truck serial numbers give the month of production). i too have a 77 and they only came from the factory with a 6 cylinder a 351M or a 400. unfortunately those were the only choices that year. of course most of use put a 460 in since it is such an easy swap! LOL hawkrod
 Good catch keeping me honest -- Ross, 05/16/2003
I saw 77, I read 77, but was thinking 76. Good catch Hawk
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17244&Reply=17244><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Help Pulling a 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Scott, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi, this weekend i plan on pulling a my 390 out of my galaxie with a C4 transmission. I am following the instructions in the 68 shop manual but i am a bit confused.  i have completed removing everything up to removing the bolts from the flywheel housing to the block. <br><br>The manual states to "disconect the converter from the flywheel and secure the the converter assembly in the housing". I am not sure what this means? Thanks. </blockquote> Help Pulling a 390 -- Scott, 05/15/2003
Hi, this weekend i plan on pulling a my 390 out of my galaxie with a C4 transmission. I am following the instructions in the 68 shop manual but i am a bit confused. i have completed removing everything up to removing the bolts from the flywheel housing to the block.

The manual states to "disconect the converter from the flywheel and secure the the converter assembly in the housing". I am not sure what this means? Thanks.
 RE: Help Pulling a 390 -- 65galaxie, 05/15/2003
Just unbolt it from the flywheel, and pull the tranny straight back from the flywheel. By securing it to the bellhousing, i think they mean to prevent it from pulling out from the tranny....
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17243&Reply=17243><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>What did I get?! And how do I Tell?!?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Theo Aftonomos, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ok, First off, let me say thanks for having a board like this, as locally in my area, there arn't too many (if any) Ford enthusiasts.<br><br>I've inherited a 1970 Ford LTD 2 door Brougham.  It's got 72K miles on it, and other that a little paint wearing on the front, it's MINT.  EVERYTHING WORKS, even the air con and factory cruise control.<br><br>I had a new timing chain installed (roller) and a new fuel pump, and went through the smallish 2bbl carb.<br><br>OK, now....  Of course I don't want to sell it (it's sentimental to me), but I certinly want to play with it a bit.  Trac loc is first thing that comes to mind, as anything over 1/2 throttle tears the rr tire off the pavement.<br><br>I've got a set of mid 90's Cobra wheels on it now, and the car has a nice stance.  I've also gotten a sweet X piped dual exhaust made for her as well, pretty quiet, but enough to know there is something under the hood.<br><br>390----So origional, it hurts to look at it!<br><br>What would you suggest as I build this car up?<br>Have the heads done (P&P, 3 angle)<br>Cam?<br>TOrque convertor?<br>Anything to do with the C6?<br>It's got discs btw, and stops suprisingly well for the boat that it is.<br><br>Anyhow, thats all for now.  Excuse the long winded post, but please see my enthusiasm.  I know it's now a 428 cobra, or Torino, but it's what I've got to play with.  Help me play the right way.<br><br>Rgds,<br>Theo Aftonomos </blockquote> What did I get?! And how do I Tell?!? -- Theo Aftonomos, 05/15/2003
Ok, First off, let me say thanks for having a board like this, as locally in my area, there arn't too many (if any) Ford enthusiasts.

I've inherited a 1970 Ford LTD 2 door Brougham. It's got 72K miles on it, and other that a little paint wearing on the front, it's MINT. EVERYTHING WORKS, even the air con and factory cruise control.

I had a new timing chain installed (roller) and a new fuel pump, and went through the smallish 2bbl carb.

OK, now.... Of course I don't want to sell it (it's sentimental to me), but I certinly want to play with it a bit. Trac loc is first thing that comes to mind, as anything over 1/2 throttle tears the rr tire off the pavement.

I've got a set of mid 90's Cobra wheels on it now, and the car has a nice stance. I've also gotten a sweet X piped dual exhaust made for her as well, pretty quiet, but enough to know there is something under the hood.

390----So origional, it hurts to look at it!

What would you suggest as I build this car up?
Have the heads done (P&P, 3 angle)
Cam?
TOrque convertor?
Anything to do with the C6?
It's got discs btw, and stops suprisingly well for the boat that it is.

Anyhow, thats all for now. Excuse the long winded post, but please see my enthusiasm. I know it's now a 428 cobra, or Torino, but it's what I've got to play with. Help me play the right way.

Rgds,
Theo Aftonomos
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17245&Reply=17243><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Cool car Theo!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Of course I like almost anything with an FE.<br><br>You should do things to enhance low  to mid range torque. An Edelbrock Performer RPM or C7AE factory aluminum intake with a 4V 600 CFM carb would be first on my list. A set of free flowing mufflers with dual exhaust and a good electronic ignition conversion for the distributor would help too. The C6 is strong and shifts well in stock form. You might also investigate a set of 3.50 rear gears to enhance acceleration some.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Cool car Theo! -- Royce Peterson, 05/15/2003
Of course I like almost anything with an FE.

You should do things to enhance low to mid range torque. An Edelbrock Performer RPM or C7AE factory aluminum intake with a 4V 600 CFM carb would be first on my list. A set of free flowing mufflers with dual exhaust and a good electronic ignition conversion for the distributor would help too. The C6 is strong and shifts well in stock form. You might also investigate a set of 3.50 rear gears to enhance acceleration some.

Royce
 Thanks - here is a pic -- Theo Aftonomos, 05/17/2003
Here is a picture:

http://www.acceleratedperformance.net/images/LTDquarter.jpg

3.50 gears are on order, as is a rear diff and rebuild kit (prolly needs it anyway)

Is the Edlebrock power pack all that it's cracked up to be? If I understand this correctly, I want to pick a cam that suits my driving RPM, and then change everything around that?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17238&Reply=17238><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 FE .060" short pushrod needed</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Chris Rinehart, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I just installed a new cam and lifters in my '69 390 (which is in my '65 F250).  I have non-adjustable rocker arms, and the cam is hydraulic.  One cylinder is dead via compression gauge- exhaust valve is staying slightly open.  I checked the rocker arm clearance, it is tight- I need  a shorter pushrod.  Either the cam lobe or lifter is a touch tall.  But to make this easy I'd rather just get a shorter pushrod.  I've read that Ford sold 0.060" shorter and longer pushrods for such occassions.  Does anyone know if Ford or anyone else currently offers these pushrods?  I believe my stock length is 9.59", but may be 9.62" (both are standard lengths on FEs)- damn hard to tell w/ a ruler.  If you happen to have these shorter pushrods on hand, please let me know.  I just need one.  thanks,<br> <br>Chris </blockquote> 390 FE .060" short pushrod needed -- Chris Rinehart, 05/15/2003
I just installed a new cam and lifters in my '69 390 (which is in my '65 F250). I have non-adjustable rocker arms, and the cam is hydraulic. One cylinder is dead via compression gauge- exhaust valve is staying slightly open. I checked the rocker arm clearance, it is tight- I need a shorter pushrod. Either the cam lobe or lifter is a touch tall. But to make this easy I'd rather just get a shorter pushrod. I've read that Ford sold 0.060" shorter and longer pushrods for such occassions. Does anyone know if Ford or anyone else currently offers these pushrods? I believe my stock length is 9.59", but may be 9.62" (both are standard lengths on FEs)- damn hard to tell w/ a ruler. If you happen to have these shorter pushrods on hand, please let me know. I just need one. thanks,

Chris
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17239&Reply=17238><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 FE .060" short pushrod needed</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>You can order custom length pushrods in any configuration (ball and ball, ball and cup, chromolly, 1010 steel, hollow, solid...) from one of the catalog (Jeg's or Summit) if you know the length you need...HOWEVER (and you probably saw this coming) you have a problem that's begging for a diagnosis.  If everthing else in your valve train is the same, either all of the valves would be held open or they all work as advertised.  To have an anomaly on one cylinder says something is going on that needs to be fixed and you need to discover what is causing that one valve to hang open.<br><br>Things to consider:<br>- siezed lifter plunger<br>- siezed valve<br>- wrong valve installed height<br>- wrong size valve installed<br><br>I'm not busting your chops on this but this really isn't the kind of problem you want to address through the pushrod change on just one valve.  A pushrod change may or may not give you a solution but you still won't be addressing the problem...what's causing it. </blockquote> RE: 390 FE .060" short pushrod needed -- Gerry Proctor, 05/15/2003
You can order custom length pushrods in any configuration (ball and ball, ball and cup, chromolly, 1010 steel, hollow, solid...) from one of the catalog (Jeg's or Summit) if you know the length you need...HOWEVER (and you probably saw this coming) you have a problem that's begging for a diagnosis. If everthing else in your valve train is the same, either all of the valves would be held open or they all work as advertised. To have an anomaly on one cylinder says something is going on that needs to be fixed and you need to discover what is causing that one valve to hang open.

Things to consider:
- siezed lifter plunger
- siezed valve
- wrong valve installed height
- wrong size valve installed

I'm not busting your chops on this but this really isn't the kind of problem you want to address through the pushrod change on just one valve. A pushrod change may or may not give you a solution but you still won't be addressing the problem...what's causing it.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17240&Reply=17238><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 FE .060" short pushrod needed</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Chris Rinehart, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Well, all the other cylinders are fine w/ strong compression, and appear to have acceptable valve lash.  With the tight tolerances of this dumb non-adjustable configuration, I just have one that is over the edge.  Ford purposely produced the .060" shorter and longer rods to service problems like this.  I've actually installed a slightly shorter used rod, and have compression in that cylinder now, and it seems to run fine.  But I'd like to get one of these correct service rods rather than use this worn out used one.<br><br>My engine ran fine prior to this cam & lifter change, I'm sure my problem is simply a tall lifter or cam lobe, I haven't touched the heads.  But I'm not into yanking the cam, and the lifter is tough to get to without removing the intake.  With this shorter used pushrod I have acceptable lash.<br><br>I've looked into everyone's custom rods, and none look to match stock, and all are special order.  Someone out there should still have some of these original service rods that I seek, that would match my other stock rods.  If anyone knows where I can buy these original style service rods, please let me know.  I'd go ask the dealer, but I imagine they'll laugh.<br><br>Chris </blockquote> RE: 390 FE .060" short pushrod needed -- Chris Rinehart, 05/15/2003
Well, all the other cylinders are fine w/ strong compression, and appear to have acceptable valve lash. With the tight tolerances of this dumb non-adjustable configuration, I just have one that is over the edge. Ford purposely produced the .060" shorter and longer rods to service problems like this. I've actually installed a slightly shorter used rod, and have compression in that cylinder now, and it seems to run fine. But I'd like to get one of these correct service rods rather than use this worn out used one.

My engine ran fine prior to this cam & lifter change, I'm sure my problem is simply a tall lifter or cam lobe, I haven't touched the heads. But I'm not into yanking the cam, and the lifter is tough to get to without removing the intake. With this shorter used pushrod I have acceptable lash.

I've looked into everyone's custom rods, and none look to match stock, and all are special order. Someone out there should still have some of these original service rods that I seek, that would match my other stock rods. If anyone knows where I can buy these original style service rods, please let me know. I'd go ask the dealer, but I imagine they'll laugh.

Chris
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17241&Reply=17238><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Maybe not Ford but NAPA and others.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I do know you can get FE pushrods from them but can't say that they'd have "alternative" lengths but all you've got to loose is a phone call.<br><br>And, yes, you're right.  A non-standard length rod is a custom order but I've done it by talking with the tech person at Jeg's.  It was fast and no more expensive than "off the shelf" parts. </blockquote> Maybe not Ford but NAPA and others. -- Gerry Proctor, 05/15/2003
I do know you can get FE pushrods from them but can't say that they'd have "alternative" lengths but all you've got to loose is a phone call.

And, yes, you're right. A non-standard length rod is a custom order but I've done it by talking with the tech person at Jeg's. It was fast and no more expensive than "off the shelf" parts.
 RE: Maybe not Ford but NAPA and others. -- Chris Rinehart, 05/15/2003
Yeah, I will look around, just was hoping to find an "FE expert" here that would have encountered this problem and knew of a specific source for the originals. If anyone knows more about these original service pushrods, please let me know.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17236&Reply=17236><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Holley carb C3AE-B..427 only or 406 too?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Larry, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>This one has a date code of 3B3. And maybe any other information about this carb...Thanks </blockquote> Holley carb C3AE-B..427 only or 406 too? -- Larry, 05/15/2003
This one has a date code of 3B3. And maybe any other information about this carb...Thanks
 No clues?....n/m -- Larry, 05/21/2003
n/m
 RE: Holley carb C3AE-B..427 only or 406 too? -- Lou, 05/21/2003
My parts book list it as a 406 carb only, but could have been a early single 4 barrel 427 carb.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17231&Reply=17231><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 lives</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Fired up my 67 mustang w/ brand new 390 last night. Engine fired up and never died on first try. Timing was off by only 4* from installed setting. I don't think I could have set the rockers any better. Leaving only the idle to be set, I dropped it from the 1k rpm to about 800 rpm. <br>    Its nice when it goes that smooth, wish they all would. LOL<br><br>Charlie </blockquote> 390 lives -- Charlie, 05/15/2003
Fired up my 67 mustang w/ brand new 390 last night. Engine fired up and never died on first try. Timing was off by only 4* from installed setting. I don't think I could have set the rockers any better. Leaving only the idle to be set, I dropped it from the 1k rpm to about 800 rpm.
Its nice when it goes that smooth, wish they all would. LOL

Charlie
 only an... -- james, 05/15/2003
experienced wrench can pull that one off.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17235&Reply=17231><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I'm torn between issuing a compliment and cursing your luck. ;-)  [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>05/15/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> I'm torn between issuing a compliment and cursing your luck. ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/15/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17262&Reply=17231><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: I'm torn between issuing a compliment and cursing your luck. ;-)  [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>05/17/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The wife cursed me enough, you should compliment only :).<br>Besides I doubt it will ever be that smooth again.<br>Charlie </blockquote> RE: I'm torn between issuing a compliment and cursing your luck. ;-) [n/m] -- Charlie, 05/17/2003
The wife cursed me enough, you should compliment only :).
Besides I doubt it will ever be that smooth again.
Charlie
 Ok, then - compliment, it is. Bravo, Charles!! :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/17/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17226&Reply=17226><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Valve covers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Boyd, <i>05/14/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Does anyone know who makes a tall cast valve cover for the FE. I've got a '67 410 with H/S rockers and they do not clear the oil baffles. There seems to be plenty of stock height cast covers and the only tall ones that I found are stamped steel ones from Milidon. Any help appreciated. </blockquote> Valve covers -- Boyd, 05/14/2003
Does anyone know who makes a tall cast valve cover for the FE. I've got a '67 410 with H/S rockers and they do not clear the oil baffles. There seems to be plenty of stock height cast covers and the only tall ones that I found are stamped steel ones from Milidon. Any help appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17229&Reply=17226><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Carl's</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>05/14/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Check out the ones that Carl's Ford Parts are selling.  They're aluminum styled very similar to the '65 & up tall 427 pentroof tin covers.  They're beautiful and around $225. </blockquote> RE: Carl's -- McQ, 05/14/2003
Check out the ones that Carl's Ford Parts are selling. They're aluminum styled very similar to the '65 & up tall 427 pentroof tin covers. They're beautiful and around $225.
 What about... -- james, 05/15/2003
the Shelby Cobra valve covers that came on the Cobra? I might be mistaken but they look taller to me for some reason and they say Cobra Lemans on them. Most of them come in a black wrinkle finish. I occassionally see some polished ones. I don't know if they are bought polished or not. Tony Branda sells them but I am sure that all the Mustang places have some.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17272&Reply=17226><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Valve covers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Geoff McNew, <i>05/18/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I just had to replace my "snake" valve covers with taller covers to clear my ersons.  Went with polished Cobra Lemans covers...they are tall, and longer, clearing the vacuum booster and master cylinder by about a pinky finger's thickness in my '69 mustang.  </blockquote> RE: Valve covers -- Geoff McNew, 05/18/2003
I just had to replace my "snake" valve covers with taller covers to clear my ersons. Went with polished Cobra Lemans covers...they are tall, and longer, clearing the vacuum booster and master cylinder by about a pinky finger's thickness in my '69 mustang.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17277&Reply=17226><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Ford offers them.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ted E., <i>05/20/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The Cobra Lemans valve covers are still available from Ford Racing in either krinkle finish or polished. </blockquote> Ford offers them. -- Ted E., 05/20/2003
The Cobra Lemans valve covers are still available from Ford Racing in either krinkle finish or polished.
 RE: Ford offers them. -- Geoff McNew, 05/24/2003
You can get them lotsa places...mustangs unlimited, etc.
 RE: Ford offers them. -- dennie, 06/11/2003
Offenhauser sells a set also
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17475&Reply=17226><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Valve covers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tbirdman, <i>06/11/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Try www.Mooneyesusa.com<br><a href="http://66.216.94.142/product.asp?0=318&1=324&3=493">http://66.216.94.142/product.asp?0=318&1=324&3=493</a><br><br>These are fairly tall.<br>I had to get the PCV valve and oil holes machined, plus the covers hit the booster so I had to get a corner mitered. I also had the centered milled out so I could place Bird emblems (63 ford galaxie fender badges)<br><br>[Image deleted by Admin.] </blockquote> RE: Valve covers -- Tbirdman, 06/11/2003
Try www.Mooneyesusa.com
http://66.216.94.142/product.asp?0=318&1=324&3=493

These are fairly tall.
I had to get the PCV valve and oil holes machined, plus the covers hit the booster so I had to get a corner mitered. I also had the centered milled out so I could place Bird emblems (63 ford galaxie fender badges)

[Image deleted by Admin.]
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17480&Reply=17226><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Nice bird there Tbirdman</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>06/11/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Nice bird there Tbirdman -- James, 06/11/2003
n/m
 RE: Nice bird there Tbirdman -- tbirdman, 06/12/2003
James,
I like to think the engine compartment as the knockout punch. The outside wows them, then I open the hood for the finale. Nothing to flashy in the engine compartment, don't want to put lipstick on a pig:-) I've been asked about the valve cover quite a bit from Ford 390 guys as there is not much out there. The valve covers are a project that wrecked the budget...$300 on machining alone, however I think they and the breather makes the engine compartment.
 Did I miss something here? -- cuzncletus, 06/21/2003
I'm running stock Ford valve covers over my Sharp roller rockers. I don't remember what junk I sorted through for these but I'm pretty sure we're talking mid-60's. I bought a pair of chrome aftermarket sheet metal covers with the Ford approval stamp and they won't clear. They look great on the wall, but the painted stock covers on top of painted aluminum heads make a great sleeper motor.
 RE: Valve covers -- lenny, 06/22/2003
just purchased these off e-bay, cant complain about any aspect of these so far,same height as my pentroofs,good quality, excellent price, $99.00
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