Ford used the same heads on almost all FE's except the 427 in any given year. In the case of C7AE-A heads this is true also.

They were used on all standard FE's in 1967 such as 352 (pickup truck) 390, 410 and 428. They were common on 390GT and the 1967 Shelby 428 also.

They are nothing special, valve sizes are 2.02 / 1.55. The intake ports are a good starting point for porting. The exhaust ports are low and small, some porting to raise the exhaust port does wonders if combined with larger valves and a set of headers.

Royce

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I'm running the same heads and intake and use fel-pro #1020 and for my headers I use
fel-pro #1442. You can get them at any auto parts store.

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If you are after the absolute highest hp you can get, you probably want the Hookers. But you really need to ask yourself two questions. 1. How much more power will I really get? and 2. Do I really want to turn my 34 year old engine above 5700 rpm to get that power? I used to show folks how fast my car (68 Shelby 500KR) would go and run it till the valves started to float at about 6800 rpm (about 150 to 155 mph, I think). It would do it with no hesitation (with Hookers), but it turns out that it's not a very good idea. I don't really think you will be able to tell the difference between the two headers up to 5500 rpm, except that the FPAs will give better torque at low to mid rpm range. One more question you might want to ask yourself is "What do I plan to do with this car?" If I was building a drag car, I would go with the Hookers, get a cam, valve train, intake and headers and lower weight rotating parts (probably with a new crank) that would let me comfortably wind to 6500 rpm and a drive train and suspension that would let me hook it to the ground. Man that sounds like fun. If I'm building a street car, I'll use the FPAs with more modest improvements in the breathing area. I'll get plenty of power without having to upgrade all the other pieces. I took my car up to Spokane and ran on the track up there last summer. My brother-in-law rented the track, so 8 of us had the track to ourselves. I promised myself that I would not wind it higher than 5500 rpm (about 130 mph, that's actually pretty fast), and I pretty much kept to that limit. It will go to 5500 rpm with no hesitation at all. I have had both headers on this car. When I detailed my engine compartment, I took off the Hookers and went back to the cast iron, cuz I thought I wanted it to look stock. When I compared the Grin-o-meter results as I looked at the cast iron manifolds to the Grin-o-meter results as I accelerated using headers, I decided it was time to go back to headers. For those of you who have never used a Grin-o-meter, it is a highly technical device that explains why we suddenly reach for our wallets when looking at a new set of headers or why in extreme cases when we look at something we REALLY need, we tend to begin to droll and the dollar bills begin to fly out of our pockets. I do not regret choosing the FPAs at all, I'm really happy with them.

Just to clarify a little. I installed the FPA's on my 390 into a 67 Cougar and you cant bolt them up to the engine on a stand then drop the engine right in. You can lower the engine about 2/3's then bolt the headers up.....which you may be able to do with the Hookers also but I don't know (I've never tried it).
I really don't have anything to offer to sway your opinion. I have the FPA's, they fit great, my engine has plenty of power, it sounds great and I would buy them again.

I have Hooker Super comps on my 69 FB and they are not at all speedbump friendly.

I'm building an new motor to put in in and when it goes in it'll be with FPA's instead of the Hookers, I'd imagine that they flow pretty much the same with the bottom tubes flattened out like they are now :(

http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=16341&Reply=16341

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http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=12118&Reply=12116

http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=15101&Reply=15101

Talk to a body man, this is not a easy job but it can be done. Might be worth taking the doors off and bringing them to a shop and have them shin them.

The rumor that 105 blocks have thicker cylinders is wrong. The 105 was simply the symbol the Michigan Casting Center (MCC) used whenever it cast an FE or FT block. MCC first came on line in 1971 casting steel ingots for Ford's steel plant and started casting iron parts about a year later.

Most all 105 blocks did get the extra cranksaddle webbing, but only a minority of them came with thicker "FT" style cylinders.

Note that most, but not all, 361 and 391 FT engines got thicker cylinders than the 360 and 390 pickup motor. Some 360/390 blocks got thicker cylinders, but they are really not all that common.

You can tell which type of block you've got by popping out all six core plugs and using the shank of a 15/64" drill bit. Reaching into all six holes and probing all reachable areas in the block, if the drill bit fails to slip between the cylinders in at least one spot on the block, then it's likely a thick cylinder block. If it does slip through in at least one spot, then it's likely a standard cylinder block.

There is some random variation which will sometimes make the drill bit test give improper results, but it's pretty darned good for the cost of a drill bit. Actually, carrying 14/64", 15/64", and 16/64" drill bits (I only speak in 64ths to avoid translation mistakes) to a salvageyard or swap meet will help give you a better idea what you are dealing with.

Note also that you can sometimes get away with testing inside just one core plug hole, but it's important to realize that the chance for errors increases if all holes are not completely checked.

Also note that this test does NOT check for core shift, so it's possible the jackets and cylinder cores were improperly aligned, making thin spots along a cylinder wall. A sonic map will be needed to sort out exactly what you've got. The drill bit test is simply a cheap pre-screen to help put the odds in the buyer's favor.

The baffle is needed on all FEs that have an active exhaust gas crossover between the heads, as oil can burn to the bottom of the intake, either degrading the oil faster than normal or else creating charcol bricks in the galley.

Note also that Ford no longer made the FE and FT engine from 1973. Production was moved to Clifford Manufacturing, in Clifford, MI, and Clifford determined who would cast the parts. It appears MCC was the main foundry.

It also appears that DIF remained involved with casting industrial FE goodies after truck engine production moved to Clifford. Kinda a strange twist, but I'm still learning these odd details.

JMO,
Shoe.

That baffle you mentioned is to keep oil off the croossover passage in the intake maifold. My experience is that you will smoke alot inside the engine if it left out. Put it in I think is best.