The last 2 390's I tore apart both had c7aeb rods. They are great to use, I reccomend getting some arp bolts in them, $45 makes good insurance. What are you installing the engine in? Makes a difference what heads you use with what exhaust system.

The 2U crank is a standard 390 part. So are the rods.

Royce

For a car you drive on the street a PCV is the right answer.

Otherwise a Moroso Vacuum pump is the way to fly. A pan evac system won't work too well with mufflers but will with open headers.

You must have a problem if the dip stick is blowing out, are you running low tension rings?

Royce

The gummy tar is the new gasolines. You should see the mess on some valves, almost closed off.

And don't disconnect the PCV system or you will have oil (from the oil vapor of blow by) allover your engine compartment.

There is much good to be said for an inductive ignition system. If it's giving you good service and lights your fire, the only downside is having to maintain the system by checking dwell and replacing points every now and then. A small price to pay, in my opinion.

I had a points ignition in my 428 and it worked. That is all I have to say about it.

I know countless people who have the Petronix installed on that same distributor and they are telling me that it is one of the best things they ever bought for less than $70.

I have a remanufactured Ford Dura-Spark distributor ($60) for a 76 360 pickup on it now with a MSD 6AL box hanging on the fender apron that works dynomite.

A person could use a Ford Box that goes with the Ford distributor and save a bundle. I think that a MSD distributor is an unnessesary expense while the Dura-Spark distributors are are still cheap and redely available.

I ran an MSD with the stock distributor for several years. I converted to a Pertronix and see no difference. The points seemed to last forever with the MSD installed.

Royce

I have a ford duraspark also, $50.oo brand new from checker feeding a crane ignition box. Runs great, can't tell it apart from my Dad's $230+ msd distributor, other than in the pocket book lol.

I have the first gen Pertronix in a blueprinted Autolite C8OF with single adjustable vacuum advance kit, a Pertronix Flamethrower II coil (in black, w/ a touch of black satin spray paint and green pad to make it look factory & weathered), Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires (again in dull black and supported by drilled-out factory valve cover clips). No ignition complaints at all.

http://www.msdignition.com/2003/page_3.htm

n/m

Windows XP, Zoomtown DSL hookup.

Royce

n/m

CodeCracker™ results for 8F01R180222
model year: 1968
built at: Dearborn (Dearborn, MI)
bodystyle: Hardtop
engine: 428 CID - 4V "Cobra Jet" (Ram-Air)
consecutive #: 180222
body series: Unk. code - check entry
scheduled assy.: June 6, 1968
exterior color: "Candyapple Red"
interior trim: Unk. code - check entry
sales office (DSO):513020: Denver, CO ("DN")
axle ratio: 3.91:1 "Traction-Lok"
transmission: 4-spd. manual (2.32 1st gear)

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It seems to be working now but it was unable, for some reason, to decode the DSO (56) which is Davenport, IA

Maybe one of the oil gallery plugs is leaking above the crank? Sounds like you did OK with the seal, but what about the oil pan gasket? I use a little RTV around the side seals as I don't trust gasket shellac to do the job there. Did you install the nails? Sometimes the nails cause the sideseals to sink lower than the block surface...so I fil them up with RTV. Did you still see the oil grooves on the crank? Not likely, but maybe the crank is worn. Also, I am not sure, but small blocks had a little pin to hold the old rope type seal. If some big blocks had the pin removed for the new type seal, perhaps the pinhole is leaking? And finally, they all leak to some extent. The FE is the most leak prone engine I've ever encountered. Despite all my efforts, I continue to develop leaks around valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, dipstick tube, distributor, and front seal. Maybe you should just consider it an automatic undercoating system and relax knowing your car will never rust underneath.

I had this same problem and replaced seal and had same leak. I pulled engine and when I pressurized oil system I found one of the oil galley plugs leaked. It looked fine to the eye but wasn't....replaced 25 cent plug and fixed the leak.

...at the rear of the block, however, new neoprene rear seals have been known to leak on many a reassembly.

You can purchase an extra fat neoprene seal from FelPro. I forget the exact part number, but if you determine it's truly the new rear seal leaking, I'd advise using the alternate seal.

The problem is apparently related to the diameter of the crankshaft at the rear seal, though I may not have all my facts correct.

I was recently told of this issue by an FE race engine builder here in Minneapolis, Kurt Gartner, but I don't have his phone number handy (this office is a mess!) to call for a part number of the seal.

If I get the info, I'll post it. Otherwise, you might try the FelPro tech line, as they should know about the alternate rear main seal.

Shoe.

did you for get to put a little sealant on the mating surfaces of the main cap where it mates with the block??
Dewey

What car? The 'H' head is easier to install in Mustangs and Fairlanes.

And please remember that the factory exhaust system severly limits performance so headers are a very effective way to improve performance.

Its my opinion that the C1AE-A heads are better that the C6ae-R heads as they have a better match to your exhaust manifolds and will work well with the RPM manifold.

I haven't seen a C0AE heads (just pictures) so I can't comment on them.

DSCMotorSports has a nice breather of the type you need. I think you could use it as a oil filter also but check with them.

A better cam , dual profile, 224 and 234 @ .050 , 290 and 300 at the valve, .536 and 562 lift with a 105 int center line and a 115 ex center line with a 110 lobe center separation.
If you would like one i can grind it for you. this profile has a lot of low end to mid range power. No need for high rpms which a FE does not like unless a lot of bottom end mods are done. If you need the cam, call me 251/666-7187 DEWEY

...The only X axle code Ford used from 1965-72 was for the 1969 Mustang "E." It was a 2.33:1 Traction Lok.

Better double check that stamping or pull the Marti Report to be sure.

Regards,
Dan Davis
Get your Master Parts Catalogs here: http://www.sea-tools.com/mpc

The "X" axle code is common in 1968 1/2 Cougars and Mustangs. It is 3.91 Traction - Loc.

Royce

1965-1973 Classic Mustang Door Tag Decoder

I alwas use the cam manufacturers recommended springs unless I have read of problems with that specific cam and springs - which is vary rare.

I'd have my machinist do it. If they have any miles on them they'll need new guides and exh valves any way. Its a good warm feeling inside to know things were done right.
Charlie

Go with Crane's recommended springs. There is no way that cam would use a double spring. Probably around 120lbs on the seat and 300 or so over the nose. Don't confuse a double spring and a single spring with an inner damper. They are not the same. Using higher spring rates where there is no recommendation for it invites lifter and cam lobe failure. The break-in method is different for double and triple spring installations.

You seem to persist in something other than what Crane recommends. I went to their site: http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/ford44.htm and reviewed the specs for the H-296-2 cam and they try make it plain and simple. They lay it all out in front of God and everybody...even machining the guides.

If you want to use a double spring or a spring set that exceeds Crane's recommendation, you are in dangerous territory. The break-in method for stiff springs is to use either a light break-in spring or rockers with significantly reduced ratio. If you try to break in a cam with a double or triple spring installed, you have a very good chance of wiping a cam lobe.

You do not get better performance from a stiffer spring if you can't make power at the limit of the spring. Once you are spinning the engine past the limitations of the cam, intake, heads, or exhaust you are only making noise. If you check the cam card, Crane will tell you at what point you should expect to experience valve float with their recommended springs. If you experience float at a significantly lower rpm, then you probably have a problem with installed height or retainer height.

These are not the dark ages, Geoff. We no longer speak words like 3/4 race cam and have to trundle through the dark trying to find compatible parts. The cam grinders have quite a bit of experience in putting together a package of parts that are engineered to work together and go to great lengths to share that with the public. The reason for this is to give the non-NASCAR experienced builder the most likely prospect for a good outcome. Crane would like you to have a good experience with their products.

My personal opinion is that your best bet for success is to follow Crane's advice regardless of your opinion of the open and closed pressures.

Hope this helps.