I have a 427 with a similar setup, running an original 8V Medium Riser intake with BJ / BK carbs. I take all the vacuum (PCV and Power brakes) from the rear port and it works fine in my car.

Royce

Well you could go to an Edelbrock Performer (not the RPM) if you're only interested in low-rpm grunt but it's not going to be a remarkable improvement over the iron 2bbl in the rpm range you're interested in. About all you're going to accomplish is saving some weight. I think the Edelbrock Performer series of intakes has become the consumer standard as far as delivering promised performance in their design range. I would avoid that Weiand single plane at all costs.

If you did go to a replacement intake, go with the Holley 1850-series 600 cfm vacuum secondary or the comparable Edelbrock 600 CFM. You could also use the Autolite 4bbl, but it's so much easier going with something new that doesn't need a rebuild.

yep. wish me luck

They should ship around the middle of March according to Tom at Erson/Mr. Gasket.

I've received everything else I ordered from them (cam, lifters, springs, retainers, locks, push rods). Now just waiting for the rocker setup...

Wayne K.

There's a website for it somewhere as I've been to it. You'll have to search. Also, I've seen it on E-Bay.

There's a book available from SA DEsign on getting the "most" from this software also. Summit used to sell the book and software as a combo package I think. They might still have it if you call.

Lentech Automatics make an FE AOD that can
handle good horsepower and torque. A friend
of mine is running a Lentech behind a hi-performance 460 in a 1970 Montego for about
a year now and loves it. (370 posi.) Give them
a call @ (613) 838-5390.

"just rebuild it to near original"...okay here's my recs:

have a quality, trustworthy, recommended machine shop do the rebuild for you.

Build the 390 short block to stock specs including a C6OZ-6250-B cam which is the stock cam for a '66 - '68 390GT. You may have to shop around and I think a similar grind cam is available from Crane. I think it's offered through their "factory blueprint" series. Check Cranecams.com. Run the whole kit including the cam grinder's matching lifters, valve springs.

Have the trusted machine shop improve the oil flow a little between the oil pump & filer adaptor. Follow their recommendations on oil pump. I think a HD oil pump drive shaft is a good idea. Available from ARP. A stock Unibody oil pan is fine for all around mild performance driving. Oh and do run a windage tray which is still available from Ford's High Performance line - Ford Racing Parts.

Heads? Most likely you have a set of C8AE-H. Have the trusty machinists rebuild them stock adding those new valve springs. They might suggest restricting the oil passages and that's not a bad idea. I would run new adjustable rockers to obtain 1.76 ratio. With hydraulics you'll only have to adjust them once. You just get a little bit more lift out of your smooth but broad power range GT cam. Your max RPM will be around 5,700, maybe 5,800 tops. Which is plenty for your intended use. And that 390 will rip fine from idle to the high 5's.

Induction: Edelbrock Performer RPM topped off with a carb of 600-700 CFM. Edelbrocks AFB style carb is easy to work with it performs. I think you can buy a new Holley 600CFM center pivot float style that'll look very close to the original. And because it's new it'll work. If you got the original Holley 600 with your package, send it to Joe Bunetic and let him work his magic on it and it'll be good as new, er actually better.

Ignition: Run the MSD distributor and 6A or AL box. Not an inexpensive ignition but it'll light 'er up.

Headers - FPA for the C8AE-H. The stock GT ex. manifolds make great shop wall deco.

Gearing - 3.50.

Traction Bars - Traction Master still offers them and they're reasonable. Stick shift Mustangs/Fairlanes, etc. need leaf spring support/assistance or you'll embarass yourself jumping around like a jack rabbit when you light those 60 series meats up.

Quick and somewhat random thoughts. You're a very lucky man to have come upon a '68 S code 'stang.

I'm sure there'll be lots of great ideas coming.

Richard, sounds like you have your hands full, I recon' you should sell me the GT and concentrate on the convertable....:)

Peter......;)

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2000/January/radiator/coolp1.asp

A 1960 Thunderbird with a 352HP-360 horsepower, stick and overdrive is very rare. I personally have never seen one. I'm unable to find anything in my limited old Ford materials that would indicate that such an option was available for the '60 T-bird. Please understand though that I'm not saying that such an option wasn't available. I would really like to see/read some documentation that the 360 horse thumper was available to 'bird buyers.

So what we need is information such as the VIN of your 'bird. The '60 and '61 HP options did not receive unique VIN engine codes. For 1960 the letter Y 5th digit in would indicate a possible HP. For 1961 the letter was Z. This is confusing because the Y for '60 indicated standard 300 horse 352 or 360 horse. The Z indicated 300 horse 390 for '61 or it the car could have been a 375 single Holley 4V or a 401 horse triple Holley car. Any other materials that indicate a letter other than Y for '60 or Z for '61 are just plain wrong.

Now for that 360 horse engine, does it have HP specific items, i.e., aluminum intake, Holley carb, dual point distributor, solid lifer cam/lifters, a 3/8" fuel line, larger 3" front brake drums, unique style/larger harmonic dampner? These are a few of the important obvious details that made a 352 a hipo.

And of course you know that those HP exhaust manifolds would never have fit in your '60 bird stock. So the HP 352 you have came with the box style non hipo manifolds? Is your 'bird equipped with the hard to replace/duplicate full 3/8" fuel line?

Again, I'm not saying your car wasn't built in some special way at the factory with a 360 horse plant. Or that someone years ago didn't transplant the engine from a '60 full size. I know the stick/OD was available for the last time in '60. So making an engine switch wouldn't be difficult minus the HP exhaust manifolds.

Your basic question is what's the value? It's tough to say but if you can provide us/me with more details on what you have on that B9A block(and being a B9A block does lend credibility to your claim that the engine is a hipo) I'll give you my best guess.

Since they never made any 427 Mustangs at the factory maybe this dealer was taking a page from Tasca's book and offering a combination not made by the factory to attract the performance crowd.

Royce

into believing this, and is passing it on. Someone did a good job of covering up the surgery required. If Ford thought they would not have to widen the bay for the T-Bolts, they would not have farmed them out to DST to do so. Bean counters were still an important part to the racing program. While it brings back my early Hi School memories of a 64 "K" code car, with a 63 front clip, (I liked it better that way) it cant be done. His name says it all. He should stick to the plastic pachyderms, (Corvettes) he probably knows better. Yeah, my 63 split window was an original 454, just dont tell anybody.