that is a 66 428 PI balancer. it is almost the same a 427 but has a beveled back edge. the numbers are milled out and restamped because the part started its life as a 427 unit and once the extra bevel was added they needed to change the part number. the date code you gave us is a january 1966 so its too early for a 67 shelby. hawkrod

Is that you can do much better especially with an automatic. I've never been a big fan of tight lobe centers because of what they do to your mileage and idle. They do punch up your midrange over a wider LSA but it's kind of one of those things you have to experience for yourself. After I did my RPM heads, I installed three cams in two weeks (I was a busy little bee) before settling on the one I have now. Frankly, I don't understand that RPM cam as being "matched" to the heads considering how well the heads flow. I won't even tell you what cam I'm using in my similarly configured '67 Fairlane (except I'm using a 3.89 Deroit Locker).

You may be able to get by with your stock converter but it will be immediatly apparent that this is a marginal situation at best. You'll probably find it hard to maintain a good idle in gear and that you have to put a firm foot on the brake pedal to hold the car. But the perfect solution greatly depends on how you drive the car and what you use if for. You should go with at least 2,000 rpm stall and you would probably be O.K. with up to 3,000 rpm stall. But leave the stock converter in it for now to see if it's a situation that you can live with. You have nothing to loose if it just doesn't work for you.

you should be ok for now with that, i have a
67 Fairlane with a 428 scj and edelbrock
heads the cam is comp. 246,256 @050
.572 & 592 lift. this thing runs like jack
the bear.

p.s Iam from Canada as well

If a trip around the world cost a nickle, I couldn't afford to get out of sight. :-)

My son started college last year and it only seems correct and proper that my financial priorities should go to ensuring he doesn't pursue a career in the beef industry..."You want fries with that?"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2401471212&category=6236

Geez, $1K-plus for hulk with a VIN. The pictures tell all . . . .

you think maybe the tree growing out of the engine compartment comes with it?

Well, most of us have been there before even if we don't want to admit it. So here's what to do. Get the cash, find an engine. Do whatever you have to, to fix it up very original, yet obviously not with matching numbers. A lot of elbow grease at about 10 cents an hour. But when you are finished, you will be proud of what you've done. You will have something quite valuable. And best of all, you can e-mail the guy a picture of the finished car and a copy of your professionally sought assesment for revenge. All in all, quite an achievemnet. As an added bonus, all your friends wil drop in with beer while you are working on it to give you encouragement despite the obvious delay in getting it done. I, for one, will support you. YOU can do it! If you need help, write to this forum. I am sure all will be willing to help you succeeed. Best of luck!

I sure do like those dyno results! If it isn't too much trouble I would like to see more details on the build up. I am planning on building a 390 later for an F100 and your info will be a great help.

What transmission is bolted on? Cbolze.

They are identical save a couple detail differences. There is a repro available. It is made by Cobra Restorers and sold by Carl's Ford Parts and Blue Thunder.

The dual plane has better low and mid range but is not as good as the Tunnel Wedge above 5500.

http://www.carlsfordparts.com

Royce

So, the page is no longer limited to FE's? And it's primarily a "parts" forum vs a technical forum? Sounds to me like it will become substantially different over time, if not right away. I know you can't please everybody all of the time, but this time you havn't pleased me. The uniqueness of the FE and the many variations, modifications and consequential variations of the engine made it worthy of a forum of its own. This had been the only forum so completely devoted to the FE I have found to date. I feel let down. But I admire your guts for making the decision.

Sorry, I apologize up front here, but I think I' m lost in the abcds of this post. Do you mean that the old Tech Forum is now the Classic Mustang? ... and that the FE tech forum is no longer attached to the new Classic Mustang forum? ... but that the FE tech forum still exists as an independent intity? or will it go away? (PLEASE PLEASE say it won't)

Mr F, you gotta know we love ya and that we know there is no other set of tech forums where we can find the quality and quantity of info we get here. I know that it isn't really free (either in $ or your time) for you to keep this site up to speed. So thanks for all the effort. Now that I got ya all buttered up, can I whine and plead "PLEASE don't take our FE tech forum away?"

Are you going to put links to the forums back on the main page for fomoco.com? Maybe I'm missing something obvious, but I don't see any links there now.

Book shows that it was originally on a 1968 289 Shebly, probably rated at 600 CFM.

my info shows it as a 725 cfm. With a date code like that, it is an aftermarket carb. The 92nd day of 73? 83?

http://fomoco.com/forummain/reply.asp?ID=50607&Reply=7502

I expect the Boss 351 uses it, and that it's probably used in numerous outher applications, reference:

http://www.boss351registry.com/BOSS351_part_no.htm

Shoe.

Here's the easy way to check the stroke without removing the head. Get a straight 12 inch piece of coat hanger wire. Get a magic marker. Remove the number 1 and number 4 spark plugs. Turn the engine over until the timing mark is at TDC. Put the wire in the number 1 spark plug hole with wire resting on the top of the piston. Make a mark on the wire even with the lip on the valve cover. Now move the wire over to the number 4 cylinder and mark the wire again. Measure the distance between the two marks.

For those that don't know: 3.98 is the stroke for the 410 and 428 engines; 3.78 is the stroke for the 390, 406 and 427 engines and 3.5 is the stroke for the 352 and 360 engines.

Thanks to John Wilkerson for giving me the idea for the stroke checking.

Besides what bob has said I would pull the head off and measure the bore of cyl. The 428 has a std 4.13 bore keeping in mind overbore if eng has been rebuilt. Cranks can be changed to different applications you never know! so depending on who you are buying this from check it out carefully. If it is what he says it is he should have no problem with you checking! my 2 cents...

It's true that C7ME-A indicates a possible 428 or possible 330, but this marking was standard on all FE and FT blocks, so the info you've read is dangerously incomplete. Greatest likelyhood is that it's a 360/390 block, based on the sheer numbers produced.

Note that it's a 1968-early1972 engine. It can be from any FE or FT of this period.

If it's got a large "A" or "C" hand scratched into the sand at the rear face of the block (characters will protrude a couple mm), then it's super-likely to be a 428 casting. If it's blank on the rear face, it's likely to be the common block of the casting period - this would be a 360/390 block.

It is a relatively simple drop-in for your Merc, but beware it may be a sheep in wolf's clothing. Even the seller may not know what it is, due to reading the same incorrect literature.

Note that 428s with C6AE-H heads are extremely rare. Only 1968-70 police engines and (I believe) early 1968 Ford Galaxies had this combo.

Note that the rods in a 390 and 428CJ are all the same forging. Only the bolt hole was drilled differently. These are good rods to build with, but ARP bolts are a good idea.

JMO,
Shoe.