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![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=16041&Reply=16041><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>Oil dipstick tube, 1967 390 GT (long)</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>ponyboy, <i>01/16/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>For all of you that have been digging on this site for awhile, you may remember this story.<br><br>Bought a 67 gta S-code mustang that someone had put a 289 in. Wanting to do the RIGHT thing, I found a 67 390 and c6, (out of a t-bird),and yes after changing the heads, manifolds, and it seems like everything else. Iv'e come to the last, (ha, last). piece that I need some help on.<br><br>The oil dip tube and stick (from the t-bird heads and manifolds) did not lend it's self for a good fit, I found and ordered a 67gt oil tube and stick, now that seems way to short, I thought I could pound it in untill the tube bracket lined up with the bolt from the manifold. If I line up the bracket to the bolt, the end of the tube just touches the hole.<br><br> I could make a new bracket but I dont know how far to pound the tube into the hole either.<br>A little (or lot ) help here would be great. <br>thanks <br><br>[Title edited by Admin.] </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=lIhYVYeLZitD6XlgNHhEd_pNt30UoEIhbpbhIhNf8V57OSGK4OVjU1xs3k2m-RDcxUADDnE6r9ve5Qk4fwirTQhWJDV7mgxhldZOoyfkkKMbSD1d-HBF6o2zegk3Rk_u0&t=637814653746327080) |  Oil dipstick tube, 1967 390 GT (long) -- ponyboy, 01/16/2003
For all of you that have been digging on this site for awhile, you may remember this story.
Bought a 67 gta S-code mustang that someone had put a 289 in. Wanting to do the RIGHT thing, I found a 67 390 and c6, (out of a t-bird),and yes after changing the heads, manifolds, and it seems like everything else. Iv'e come to the last, (ha, last). piece that I need some help on.
The oil dip tube and stick (from the t-bird heads and manifolds) did not lend it's self for a good fit, I found and ordered a 67gt oil tube and stick, now that seems way to short, I thought I could pound it in untill the tube bracket lined up with the bolt from the manifold. If I line up the bracket to the bolt, the end of the tube just touches the hole.
I could make a new bracket but I dont know how far to pound the tube into the hole either.
A little (or lot ) help here would be great.
thanks
[Title edited by Admin.] |
 | 4609 CJ Holley carb question -- MIKE HOWARD, 01/14/2003
Does anyone here know the Holley part # for the vacum secondary diaphram for this carb? It is not included in the rebuild kit. |
| Which autolite carb is it? -- Ray, 01/14/2003
I can't find any identifying tag, stamps, marks on the carb. I just took it off a big port early manifold it's in the hot tank for couple days. The bore size is 1.560 heres a picture of carb thanks. Ray
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| Not FE but what a diff. a rear makes..True story -- David B., 01/13/2003
A little background here..
I am selling/trading my 1966 Mustang Sprint Hardtop to a friend on mine. He will be redoing it and since it has brand new tires, I put on the tires from the other 1966 I have so "fallout" from the body shop won't damage the new tires. The tires I put on are Dunlop's with about 15,000 miles on them. When on my other Sprint (parts car), I hade some fun and couldn't really spin them up too much with the 200/C4/2.83 combo it had.
Over the weekend I took the "good one" out of the garage to replace Christmas decorations in the garage loft (where auto part belong if you ask me). I dumped in 5 gallons of fresh regular into the almost empty tank and let the car run for about 45 minutes on the cold clear day. It hadn't been given a run in many months. In the past, any time it came out, we (the hole family) would pile in and we would go for a nice family cruise somewhere and I never stomped into it. This weekend, no one wanted to go anywhere so I figured I'd take it for a beating…I mean drive, myself.
I left the driveway, making a right and stomped the gas to the floor. The right rear tire smoked up instantly and the car left a stretch of rubber in excess of 100 feet. The ensuing clouds of smoke traveling, not so innocently, across my neighbor's lawn. I figured I started on sand or something and the tires must have vulcanized in storage since the other car would never have indulged me with such a macho treat.
I stopped a little further down the road in front of a farm/nursery and rationalized that "power-braking" the little coupe would kill two birds with one stone. It would heat up (and ware off) the vulcanized outer surface of the tires and rid the rear drums of the unwanted surface rust…yea right!
To my surprise, it power-braked impressively, melting the right rear until it got sticky enough for the left rear to start up and the rear of the car drifted like a windshield wiper on the crown of the road. Where is a good set of staging lights when you need them?
I proceeded up the road to my parent's house to enthrall my 70-year-old parents with a stripe on the road in front of their house. I stopped and backed up into the middle of the road in front of their driveway. I put it back into drive and stomped away…Nothing…It left like a slug. I looked down and realized I had put the "dual range" C4 into the notch just back of neutral. This starts the car off in second gear. I stopped again, backing a couple of hundred feet to my parent's driveway. This time I placed the shifter in the second position behind drive before placing my foot firmly in the pile of the carpeting. The car launched fairly hard for a six and left a 30+ foot long rubber trail from the right rear tire. Wow..I was impressed. Why did this car "move" when the other did not? The cars were almost identical in every way except for color and rust content. Ahh..the big difference here is the axle ratio. The "parts" car had the 2.83:1 open rear and the "good" car has a 3.20:1 open rear.
Never under estimate the effect of a good axle ratio (and good cold, dense, air).
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|  | RE: Not FE but what a diff. a rear makes..True story -- Joel, 01/14/2003
Not only axle ratio, but effective ratio. My Talladega came with a decent set of 205/70x14 all-season passenger car tires. With a 3.25 open rear and a 428cj/c6, it could lay a patch about a 100 feet. I purchased a new set of 215/70x14 T/A Radials to be placed on a different set of rims that I had cleaned up and resprayed in the original argent silver finish. They installed 3 of the 4 before they realized that the last one had a manufacture's defect in the sidewall. So, while a new one was ordered, they installed a 195/70x14 radial in it's place (on the right rear of course : ) ). I went and "tested" again on a quiet section of road by my house. Let's just say, the first time I hit the gas from a dead stop scared me sh*tless. Before I had gone ten feet, at had zipped through first gear and was climbing in second when I got out of it. It never shifted out of first with the other tires! I also realized that I hadn't floored the accelerator causing it to shift at about 4500rpm. I had a grin from ear to ear. With my new found "power", I tried again. This time, I feathered the throttle so it didn't shift into second as fast. After it did shift into second, I mashed it to the floor. Seconds passed like years as blue smoke covered the corn fields. After the smoke cleared, the damage was evident. At least a football field worth of asphalt had been marked with cheap Ma and Pa sedan tire. The tire's smaller diameter, and undoubtedly, harder tire compound helped create this master piece. The tire's smaller diameter lowered my effective ratio as compared to the larger diameter tires. I calculated the difference. It wasn't even as much as going from a 3.25 to 3.5 gear set. |
| | | Very true but in my case the change was rear only. -- David B., 01/14/2003
..as the tires were a direct transplant from the parts car. In other words, the same Dunlop 195-75R14's were on both cars with the only real difference being the parts car had a fresher motor and 2.83:1 and the "good" car had the original 77,800 mile 200 and the 3.20:1 rear. The tranny wasn't even a factor as that was swaped from car to car also as the "good" one received a 1968 tranny at one point in it's life so the 1966 from the parts car was grafted back for originality sake.
Anyone with a 5.0 Mustang has experienced the "fun" you refer to if they have had to install the spare on a rear location.
You make a very valid point about "effective" ratio (axle ratio & tire diameter). |
| | | | RE: Very true but in my case the change was rear only. -- Joel, 01/14/2003
I understand, I was attempting to backup your point about the impact of changing the rear gearing, but I didn't really explain it very well. In my example, I changed the effective ratio by 2.5% going from the 205/70x14 to the 195/70x14. That made a huge difference on my car (along with tire compound). Your change was effectively a 12% difference. I can only imagine how huge of a difference that made. As you explained so well, a sh*t eating grin amount. : ) |
| | | |  | I understood your point & it was a good one..n/m -- David B., 01/14/2003
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 | Got a glitch - any trouble posting to the Main Forum? [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/12/2003
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| Attention race fans..Guess this track..pic -- David B., 01/12/2003
Look closely at this picture taken in the mid 1960’s. You are looking more or less north.
This track was a favorite of the early Cobras and they cleaned up here embarrassing the Corvettes on a regular basis. Many big names started and tested here. Guys like Jim Hall, Dan Gurney, Mario Andretti, Ed Leslie, Pedro Rodriguez and all the greats. For the Bow-Tie boys, Don Yenko ran here in the mid- 1960’s driving a Volvo (he also ran Corvettes). Lots of history at this track and it was a high point for Mustangs during the hay day of Trans-Am.
If no one guesses it quickly I’ll give more hints.
 |
| | RE: Attention race fans..Guess this track..pic -- Terry, 01/12/2003
Sebring? |
| | | RE: Laguna Seca spelling?? -- DavidThayer, 01/12/2003
nm |
| | | Not in Florida and not on the west coast... -- David B., 01/12/2003
... The main straight (on the right of the picture) was a little less than a mile long and was a tough one. At the end of the straight was a right hander that lead quickly into another right hander. The problem was, just when you wanted to brake for the turn, the road fell out from under you. As a matter of fact, you couldn't even see the first turn due to the sharp drop off in the road. You had to brake early and let the tires leave the road when the dip came. I'm told, you guess at the steering wheel position so when you landed, the car sucked around the first turn. If you did it right and drifted the car enough, the 1st and 2nd turns turned into one. If you did the turn wrong and landed on the oposite camber 1st turn with an incorret wheel position, you spun or ended up driving, off-road, through the sand and pebbles.
The tracks total length was 2.85 miles. |
| | I own a booklet w/ all SCCA track designs, so I'll demur. ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/12/2003
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| | | You should have seen Meadowdale....... -- kevin, 01/13/2003
and its high baked "Monza" curve. None faster exist today. My snooty cousins raced their Ferrari there, as I cheered on for the Cobras! Sadly, it looks out over the surrounding area filled with too much growth, and waiting for the developers to overtake it. Fortunatly, there is a nature preserve declared in part of it. Mostly, its used by the kids partying, as no cops will get out and walk that far! The occasional dirt bike shows up, and a few nature lovers walk in there (like me, and I cant think of a better place than an abandoned racetrack, LOL). Fred Lorenzen won the last stock car race (250 miler) on it, in his home town turf back in 62 in a USAC car with a 406 (yea!). I saw this happen to so many racetracks in my lifetime. Most dont know the history of the board tracks that were popular in the teens and very early twenties. For example, Des Moines had a mile and a half long board track that was used only once. Peter Depaolo, (you can thank him for your Ford hot rods, the Carrera Pan Americana Lincolns, and the resultant Grand National cars that became Nascar) won the race, and then a tornado wiped out the town shortly afterward. The track was torn down to rebuild the structures. The only survivors past the roaring twenties were to become Wall Stadium in NJ, and Playa Del Ray in California. "Velodromes", as they were called, were originally used for bicycle racing that was popular at the time. Then the motorcycle and car races exceeded them in popularity. The Indy 500 track was built in the state with the most car company's. The first two years, only motorcycles were raced on it. The boards would warp, and they were all gone before we were all born. Hell, there were four different dragstrips around Sebring, one owned by "Big Daddy" himself. Also, the country with the most racetracks in the world, was Argentina. That one was a surprise. Of course thats no longer true. |
| | | | Long Island had several tracks way back.. -- David B., 01/13/2003
There was one in Freeport and Islip. Both of those were dirt and then paved as small bull rings. Islip also had an 1/8 mile drag strip. The Vanderbilt Motor Parkway was first a road race track for the rich. Bridgehampton was world class as a road track. There were at least two other drag strips. One was/is in West Hampton and the other was National Speedway. There is still another Winston Cup bull ring in Riverhead but most of the tracks have had to move aside for shopping malls and condos. I'm sure I missed some and I know they used to race on an old landing field out here too but much of this was before my time. I never heard of the wood tracks. An interesting thing I will have to research.
Thanks. |
| | | | | RE: Long Island had several tracks way back.. -- Courtney Bolze, 01/15/2003
I can still remeber Charlie Jarsombek beating on the back of Riche Evans at Islip and Riverhead, none better at modified racing. Any pictures of Center Moriches Dragstrip? I logged on too later to get the bridge hampton track answer. Courtney Bolze. |
| | | | | | No drag pictures from me..my boss's son... -- David B., 01/16/2003
..had a picture from Natonal Speedway of his 1965 Falcon 260 getting spanked off the line by two Z-28 Camaros. Yes, they sometimes ran three across. He was in the middle and they were convinced he had a 289 because of the intake manifold he had on the car. They classed him with the 302 Z-28's and wouldn't let him put on his slicks either. He had to run the 6.95-14 snow tires he drove there on. He knew he had no chance so he figured he would have some fun. The picture shows the two Z-28's leaving hard with the nose of the Falcon Futura visible in between. I say only the nose because, from the door handles back is engulfed in rich, thick, tire smoke from the snow tires.
Wish I had a scan of that picture. |
| 1u or 1ub differences -- Curt, 01/11/2003
What if any differences is there in the cranks, i know they are balanced deferently. I have 2 cranks a 1u and a 1ub, anyone have any preferences?
curt |
| | RE: 1u or 1ub differences -- Greg, 01/12/2003
I may be mistaken here...but I believe that the 1u was the standard 428 crank used in the "A" block passenger car engines and is a regular cast iron crank.
The 1ua-1ub are the nodular iron cranks used in the 428cj/scj.
Greg
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| | | that chart is only good for engines made after.... -- hawkrod, 01/13/2003
the 1st change. the 68 1/2 and early 69's had a 1U crank. hawkrod |
| | | | What pistons to use?? -- Paul Garvin, 01/13/2003
Hawkrod,
I Have 1UB crank that I plan on using with my C7AE-B rods in my D4TE 390 block. I have not yet had it sonic mapped to find out what bore it wll take, but what might I be looking for as far as pistons go for that crank and rod combo in a street driven 69 Cougar with 3.70 gears and a C6 with stock converter and mild cam.
Thanks,
Paul |
| | | | | i don't think anything available matches any.... -- hawkrod, 01/15/2003
original weights exactly so you should have the assembly balanced anyway. and if you are having it balanced, then the piston weight will be taken care of so it won't matter what you use. hawkrod |
| Men at Work! Expect Forum glitches for next 48-72 hrs. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/10/2003
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| Oil pressure suddenly went up !? -- Martin Micheelsen, 01/10/2003
2 days ago I replaced the valve cover gasket on a very tired 390IP in my 69 Cougar. The gasket was old and the workspace is tight so some cork chips probably went down in the engine. The wiring harness that included the wire for the oil pressure-sending unit was tugged at in the process. It still appears to be on right. After the gasket was replaced the oil pressure reading had increased by approx 35psi across the range and now shows approx 90 – 95 PSI at 2000 rpm. Tonight I replaced the oil filter with no effect - the old filter was about a week old. The oil is 20-50. The engine runs normal and as well as can be expected for a tired engine. There is no clatter of lifters indicating that a restriction in oil flow is starving the lifter galleries. What is most likely to have caused this ? The engine is slated for a total rebuild in April. If it isn’t necessary I would really prefer not to have to do work that is more involved than the sending unit or oil pump between now and April. The car is my daily driver. Any advice will be appreciated. |
| | RE: Oil pressure suddenly went up !? -- tim, 01/10/2003
The sending unit more that likelyi s no good try and put
a good mechanical guage and see what the pressure
is |
| | | RE: Oil pressure suddenly went up !? -- Bob Sprowl, 01/10/2003
I agree. I have a mechanical guage I install as test guage to verify the accuracy of a electrical setup. |
| | | RE: Oil pressure suddenly went up !? -- Martin Micheelsen, 01/10/2003
Thanks - I will p/u a mechanical gage on my way to work. |
| | | | Not likely the sending unit -- John, 01/10/2003
Although Sending units are the primary cause of erroneous oil pressure readings, a bad unit or a bad connection usually results in a low oil pressure reading. If the reading is the same even with the engine off, then maybe. Just how much cork dropped in the engine anyway? |
| | | | | RE: Not likely the sending unit -- Martin Micheelsen, 01/10/2003
The oil pressure gage goes to zero when the engine is off. Since last night the pressure readings have retreated somewhat and now show approx 45 psi in idle and approx 75 psi at 2000 rpm. These readings should be around 25-35 in idle and 60-65 at 2000 rpm.
In regard to the cork - I don't think very much. I covered the rocker arms with rags while working the upper part and lower front part , but in the back there is hardly any space for scraping, and there I worked without anything covering the drain holes. When done I picked and vacumed up the pieces I could see. The work was done at night and a larger piece could have gone down there without being noticed.
Is there a major risks of toasting the engine between now and April without knowing it ?
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| | | | | | Problem is resolving itself -- John, 01/10/2003
Must be an obstruction...i.e. gasket material in oil gallery or pump relief spring. If it keeps getting better, keep changing filter until things get to normal and you'll be fine...er.....I hope |
| | Any chance a chunk of the old gasket came off? [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/10/2003
n/m |
| | Drive it (carefully) & take your chances. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/11/2003
n/m |
| | | RE: Drive it (carefully) & take your chances. [n/m] -- Martin Micheelsen, 01/13/2003
Thanks to all for all advice. I could not find an acceptable mechanical oil pressure gage on first try. I am starting to think it is the sensor, since I now only get two readings: Engine off = no pressure and engine on = 70 psi. I wish that was true, but know better. Within the next couple of days I will install a new sending unit and also get a mechanical oil pressure gage and check actual pressure while I have the surrounding brackets off. |
| | | | I will leave it as is until the April rebuild. -- Martin Micheelsen, 01/21/2003
Again - thanks to all who offered advice.
Last week I got a new sending unit and a mechanical oil pressure gage. Space is extremely limited in the engine bay of a FE Cougar. I took the powersteering pump off which allowed me to get a wrench on the sending unit when reaching up from underneath. The sending unit would not budge for anything and to apply serious force I would have to take off the A/C pump and other surrounding parts + the radiator, so I decided that the current unit would have to last the next 2.5 month. |
| | | | | Well, hey - nice try. Keep us informed, Ok? [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/21/2003
n/m |
| 428 build up - Low compression ratio -- Matt McCormick, 01/09/2003
Hope someone can help me.
I building a 1966 428 non cj to cj specs. The engine has been bored .30 over (had to) and Im planning to use C6AE-R heads with cj valves installed. Those heads have a 74cc chamber volume. Im having trouble finding a piston that will provide me with a 10.1 to 10.5 compression ratio. KB and JE pistons .30 over list between 9.1 - 9.8 comp ratio. and these are domed.
How is it that the stock piston (flat top) yielded 10.5-1 originally. Does anyone know where I might find a piston that works, or any other suggestions. I planned on using the stock rods thanks for the help.
Matt |
| | Stick with 9.5 -- John, 01/09/2003
The mid 9's is a good compression ratio for pump gas with a matched cam. Safer in the event of imprecise tuning too. At least that's what I go for if it's a street engine. |
| | | RE: Stick with 9.5 / Here is what I did -- Alan Casida, 01/11/2003
I was freshening up my 428 and wanted to lower the compression but wanted to keep my forged pistons so I had my Machine shop ( www.gessford.com ) machine a dish in my TRW 2303s. It is running about 9.5:1 now with 69cc(milled) CJ heads.
http://www.gessford.com/projects/images/Casida-Pistons-DA01.JPG |
| | | | RE: Stick with 9.5 / Here is what I did -- Matt McCormick, 01/12/2003
hello,
my C6AE-R heads are 74 cc. Wouldnt dishing them produce an even lower compression than what you have. Does TRW have a piston for a 74 cc application at 9.8-1. Do I really need a 10-1 ratio. Wasnt the factory rating 10.5 -1
thanks |
| | | | | Gasoline and CR -- John, 01/12/2003
The specs from teh 60's were for higher octane gas than what we get these days, or at least I'm under that impression. So those high CR specs don't apply today as they only cause trouble. Now CR alone doesn't increase Hp very much. What it does do is allow the use of a different cam matched to that CR. The two working together is what makes things bark. I'm using FPP 9.5:1 pistons and a Crane solid lifter cam designed to work with that CR. I eally don't know what to say, but with a 2500 lb car I just can't put the pedal to the floor without all hell breaking loose. I dare say I have more Hp available than I'll ever use. Remember Hp is the work being done...sort of an achievement. So in a light car at highway speeds, it's more fun to build in low end torgue and not get carried away with what the engine could do at 6500 rpm in a 3500 lb car at 150 mph. |
| | RE: 428 build up - Low compression ratio -- Royce Peterson, 01/09/2003
Matt,
These engines used the thin steel head gasket originally, that could be the difference as well as the C80E 6090 - N headsbeing slightly smaller in the chamber than your C6AE-R heads.
Royce |
| | | RE: Did the same with mine -- Matt McCormick, 01/12/2003
What brand of pistons did you use. What year heads are you using. My C6AE-R 's have 74 cc's. I would like to have upper 9's to lower 10's compression ratio. any suggestions would be most helpful
thank you for your response |
| | | | | Forgot to add -- x1968X, 01/12/2003
to help ID the heads the engine is original equipment 428 CJ in a 1968 Shelby GT500KR |
| | RE: 428 build up - Low compression ratio -- Geoff McNew, 01/18/2003
My SCJ uses Speed Pro (TRW-L2303NF) with stock CJ heads (C80E 6090 N) 74cc chambers, 0.043" thick gasket for a pubic hair under 10:1. Runs fine on 92 octane with 38 deg. adv. (Note: .030" & 0.060" over pistons or shim gaskets would add some compression.) |
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